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r was very helpful in allowing us to move from one to the other particularly as he was on holiday in greece at the time so we spend the rest of the day lazing around while the washing gets done i think i only went out again to see if anything was open for me to buy something for tea there was we didn t starve just something we ve noticed is the shopping hours late starts and closures as i expected but weekends in town supermarkets are open for shorter hours early and big surprise most of the fuel stations in town close at 6pm every day we were very nearly caught out with that one monday sunny again some clouds though another day at home after our very busy week and lots of driving while not long distances we have covered some territory the ww1 battlefields cover about an 80 mile radius form lille today we walked across town to find out where we catch the train to amsterdam on thursday and to see where we drop off the hire car as we will be coming into the station from a different route from the one we left at the euraille centre as well as trains there is a fabulous three story shopping mall roubai gate in old city ramparts do you think i could find a pair of bathers to fit not on you life now i m sure nude bathing will be frowned upon in dubai so it s pretty important that i find a pair soon oh that i were a size 6 not that i ever was after lunch here we walked home the long way we walked around one side of the perimeter of the city not that we were lost just misplaced we did discover that there s a fabulous park along the canal at the other end of our street so it was a good walk lille canal tuesday so it must be belgium yes today we were in brugge what a beautiful city it s only a 50 min drive from lille so we left late parked outside the city and walked in we d had a recommendation to have lunch at one of the breweries the half moon and we didn t need to see beer being made again so we skipped the tour and had a great lunch with a couple of good beers the very best waffles ever we then hopped on a canal tour which took us around all the old town and was fantastic the beauty of this town can been seen everywhere there are shops selling all the usual tourist tat but amongst that there is some delicate lace delicious chocolate and good beer rick says 2 outa 3 aint bad bottle shop and chocolate shop side by side someone s happy we are almost at the end of out time in france and it s been so good being once again in a smaller city makes it easier to feel more comfortable as we go about the town at may 31 2019 no comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest saturday 25 may 2019 the euraille train leaves from st pancras station it s almost like an airport lounge we leave about 11am saturday morning the train is fast and i do mean fast even through london and the immediate country side the train stats for those interested average speed 290kmph fastest speed 332kmph we went just over 300 tunnel lenght 50 km tunnel depth 75meters trip london to lille 2hours we found our apartment without too much trouble dragging suitcases over cobblestones on the way rick at the front door we are quite central between place de republic and the grand place town square after getting some food for tea we had a quick wander around our area sunday drizzley today the hire car is ready for collection so we wander back to the railway station to collect it peugeot auto with sat nav and as she sends us home to our parking garage without a hitch that s a big plus the rest of the day is spent having a look around the old town in the grand place area it s quite beautiful lille cloth hall there are a lot of people out this evening it turns out that it is a celebration for the museums and they are all open tonight and free also there is a demonstration against the european elections i think and there are heavily armed machine guns the lot riot police alongside the prefecture of police at the end of our street it turns out to be a quiet night monday sunny and bright and our exploring of the somme begins our tour of the ww1 battlefields begins we are both following in family footsteps as both rick and i have ancestors who took part in these events first stop is the town of villers brettoneux and the sir john monash centre which has only been opened in the last couple of years as we walked up through the cemetery toward the sjm centre i was quite taken by the wonderful sculptured flags along side the gate posts then i saw the thousands of names along the walls between the gate posts these are the missing australians who have no grave as yet there are about 10 000 on these walls between those and the very moving museum films it has been an emotional morning view from tower at monash le hamel monument next we visit the australia corps memorial at le hamel and albert iles grave at crucifix corner family tree note albert henry iles kia 8 7 18 was jack grandpa iles uncle brother of john edward pop iles back to lille via dernancourt i pinched a poppy from roadside in villers b tuesday another sunny day a visit today to a wonderful little museum at bullecourt most of the memorabilia has been collected by the late mayor of bullecourt he was a farmer and found most of the collection in his own fields he and his wife had put together the museum themselves what i particularly liked is that he didn t discriminate and there are german and allied artifacts here on our way again and next we find the lochnagar crater another private exhibition this time owned by an englishman who bought the field as the crater was part of an english army action it s not far from pozieres where we have a picnic lunch overlooking mouquet farm called moo cow farm by the irreverent australians mouquet is still a working farm although the buildings are all new that s one thing that i thought curious as we drive through the villages that they aren t the quaint chocolate box prettiness of the english countryside then it dawned on me not one of the buildings in any of these villages and towns is more than 100 years old so many were rebuilt after ww1 only to be once again smashed to smithereens in ww2 our final call for the day is the huge and very moving thiepval monument it looks toward mouquet farm the monument recall the names of 72 000 missing no known grave commonwealth soldiers the whole area of the somme is quite flat there are rises and dips but it is not hilly so i can imagine any wood forest or farm building would provide essential shelter as did mouquet farm for both sides at various times wednesday sunny again for a change of scenery we head for the coast to dunkerque and a change of war ww2 here is where the allies were evacuated from france to england in thousand of little private boats over the nights of may 26 to june 4 over 300 000 servicemen escaped by waiting several days for their turn while a war was going on behind them we had lunch on the edge of the wide flat beach and explored the old part of town that is still intact as it was before either war cobblestones and all on the way home we called in to poperinge to see a wonderful rnr house for mostly english soldiers in the area talbot house talbot house garden it s called talbot house and its here behind the lines that the soldiers relaxed put on music hall shows caught up with friends etc it s a really restful place for we travellers too who have had our emotions rattled for the past couple of days it has really peaceful feel and the garden in the back is quite a treasure within any of these towns ypes is also on our way home and it s here every night of the year that buglers play the last post at the menin gate i feel i can t tell you yet again that the menin gate is a memorial to soldiers with no graves as it s all we seem to have seen that s not strictly true but the cemeteries appear everywhere i do mean everywhere every village or towns has at least one if not multiple commonwealth war graves it turns out that in many cases these arose out of necessity they began as clearing stations medical stations and military aid stations which all required small cemeteries which became cwgraves in the time after the war for instance the cemetery where alby iles is buried has about 1000 graves and is quite small and almost hidden by raised main road we nearly missed it altogether thursday sunny we ve decided to take day off we d lost our camera so that had added a level of frustration as it has on it some photos we needed for further investigation so we each did our own thing this morning i went shopping of course i m in france decided that nice shoes and cobblestones don t mix so after a bit of shopping and a bit much hobbling on cobbles i came home to a much happier husband rick had found the camera in the car now that we are all happy again off we toddled to the other end of town where i sniffed out the wazeeme market like most markets there s a lot of junk but there as also great fruit veges meat bread cheese etc palace de beaux arts tonight the art gallery at beaux arts is open till 6pm so we wandered over and had a look there s masses of religious art as you d expect which is not to my taste at all however there were a number of good little portraits and a lovely room of impressionist in particular some edouard vuillard still lifes the gallery palace has only recently been completely renovated and after being damaged in ww1 the grand place town centre has a wonderful clock bell tower so we made it in time for the 6pm bells which rick recorded for a guy at work who is a bell ringer at the bell tower in perth i made some soup for tea and we had an early night friday still sunny they keep promising rain ypes cloth hall we climbed the clock tower back to ypes to have look around the town we climbed the bell tower i don t know how i did it as it was quite scary though not as terrifying as when we had to go out onto the battlements which even made the men a bit nervous i d like to say i enjoyed the view but i doubt i saw much and that was the only way down btw on the bell tower holding on tight on the way down rick and i stopped on the carillion floor to catch our breath just as the quarter hour bells chimed omg lucky we were safe inside as we both jumped and took off in fright man it was loud ypes has been rebuilt as it was before ww1 after some discussion it seems as not everyone wanted to look back and many rather wanted to take advantage of new homes and town centre the centre market place and ancient cloth hall and all the buildings close to the town centre have been built as they were and i have to say they are magnificent a town close by is zonnebeke which has a lovely wooded park and lake from here we walked out to see the tyne cot cemetery the largest commonwealth cemetery in the world has the most actual burials and my god it s big can t show how big it is but can show how well they are looked after more australian are buried here than at any other war cemetery in the world there was a woman on a tour who i over heard say that s it no more cemeteries for me i know how she feels it s quite overwhelming but that is why we ve chosen to come to this part of france and it has been quite fascinating otherwise we had walked to the cemetery and memorial along the roads but found an old railway line now a walking cycling trail back to town which was much nicer and settled the mind after the cemetery we d also had enough by then and after buying some steak for tea hopped back on the road to home along with all the workers at peak hour it took us over an hour to travel about 5kms home we ll be back at zonnebeke tomorrow though as i left my phone at the cafe where we had afternoon tea saturday drizzle early sunny later today is the last day of our tour of the battlefields etc first of all though we had to return to zonnebeke to retrieve my phone that i had forgotten after we had afternoon tea yesterday then on to polygon wood just out of town it s early drizzly quiet and the only sound is the birds in the wood and our footsteps on the gravel behind me is the monument to the australians it s here that a cafe owner recently last five years or so found the remains of five australians and as we were having a coffee at his cafe he began re counting that experience to a group of contributors who are financing the next step in their recognition reburial polygon wood cemetery and monument it s not far to a little known museum at hooge crater it s in the grounds of an hotel and quite eerie as it s been left much as it might have been in 1918 most other places with trenches have lawns and gardens surrounding them but here there is a mess makes it a bit more real in a way hill 60 of the australain movie fame is next down the road it s very surprising just how close to each other all of these places are hill 60 is another memorial that has been left much as it was ie no cemetery or headstones and nature is reclaiming her own so though it is a memorial it s also a wooded walking area for the towns folk anzac rest cafe toronto road now all australian graves one little cemetery that we did find eventually was a small australian one from quite early in the war called toronto road as the canadians first used it it s very near to the place where both the german and the allied soldiers celebrated their first christmas with a truce and a game of soccer though it s so well hidden we took two days to find it these sticks german trench those sticks allied trench soccer in between the cemetery is hidden away in the wood behind the soccer game memorial and took some finding as to the christmas truce there are rebuilt trenches to show where both sides were at the time and honestly they could have almost reached out and shook hands without leaving the trench so close the last port of call and one i had been waiting for was fromelles the australian s first engagement in with the germans the town itself is very small and indistinct from many others there s a monument called the cobbers and a cemetery vc corner here also with no headstones which after acres and acres of them is somehow a easier to take we drove through armentieres no madamoiselles to be seen so we have come on home we e quite done now with this part of our french adventure and now on to some cultural exploits it s been an interesting and some times tough week as our emotions have taken a battering but i m really pleased to have finally been able to put places to the names i ve read about for so long at may 25 2019 no comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest older posts home subscribe to posts atom heads up i ve added the last days in dubai to this page and re published wednesday sunny again our last full day in france so we no title sunday morning late start and it s sunny so we go up to wazeemes market for breakfast it turns out that today as well the day all o no title the euraille train leaves from st pancras station it ...
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