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ssic afternoon tea which came with four dainty sandwiches egg mayo otherwise known as egg salad scottish salmon and cream cheese i don t think i ll ever like cold salmon cucumber and cream cheese again my favorite and ham and butter i did not eat the ham these arrived on a tier with a fruit scone with raspberry jam and clotted cream and a nice slice of carrot cake with a vanilla buttercream frosting i was not particularly adventurous with the tea i just enjoyed a pot of peppermint which was lighter on a hot day than a typical black tea would have been the carrot cake was really the star of the show while not as good as the kind i make it had a lovely spicy taste replete with carrots and the sponge was soft but firm a sleepy heilan coo view of prestonfield house from the gardens the final afternoon tea room i discovered by accident one of my facebook peeps mentioned they were in edinburgh and had taken pictures of the tier of treats and i was immediately drawn to it and the background of the room she told me about prestonfield house and i made my reservation for the last friday before i left i arrived about half an hour early so i wandered the beautiful grounds on the lee side of arthur s seat the extinct volcano in the east side of edinburgh while i waited the current prestonfield house dates from the 1600s but apparently way back in the 14th century it was an abbey on the grounds live heilan coos a peacock in a tree and a rather scraggly black cat whom the major domo told me was a bit of a hellion the cat seemed perfectly nice to me but as i was calling to it the house s flower arranger also called to it and the cat demonstrating utter disdain for me zipped over to the flower arranger i don t think that qualifies as hellion status but it certainly betrays a bit of poor decision making as i would have been happy to love on him as for the afternoon tea how could it be anything but lovely the room where i was led bore heavy red and ochre damask wallpaper and velvet curtains and paintings on the wall of previous owners of the house plus two big bouquets of purple hydrangeas in the center of the room every table sparkled with multiple forks and knives and more glasses than one person would actually need to drink with prestonfield house prides itself on its exceptional service and its service was indeed out of this world not only did they seat me at a wonderful table though to be fair all of them looked nice with comfy bench seating one of the servers actually put my napkin on my lap as she took my tea order i had thought about getting the evening chai but then i noticed something called black fig sencha with aromas of forest fruits and fig it was a green tea or perhaps a white tea which smelled like christmas its delicate flavor was a little on the weak side for my taste but it was plenty good with sugar in it a cool spach the water bearer came out next and poured a glass of sparkling water into my water glass and left the bottle so i had both water and tea to drink then a third server brought out an espresso cup full of gazpacho for an amuse bouche and believe me my bouche was suitably amused to be drinking a cold tomato salsa i sipped it slowly it was very good but had to smile when this goth girl at another table got hers she took one sip wore a look on her face that was half horror and half disgust and she put her espresso cup down with a thump i did not see her girlfriend s expression and wondered if it had been the same prestonfield tower o treats after a while the tower of treats came out first was a plate of savory crackers one with english pea mint and marigold interesting but not my favorite one with cream cheese and tomato on a little oat cake and the third a whipped applewood cheese on cranberry toast with a bit of apricot the cheese part was whipped but didn t taste very cheddary all were tiny no bigger than half a thumb but they were pleasant to eat on the bottom tier were four sandwiches avocado and tomato corned jackfruit and pineapple chutney i didn t really taste the pineapple but the jackfruit was interesting egg with caesar mayonnaise and a roasted red pepper and hummus on half a roll prestonfield desserts but wait there s more a fruit scone and a butter scone with raspberry jam and clotted cream awaited me both were dusted with turbinado sugar and the clotted cream was almost the consistency of butter but by then i was starting to feel full having drunk a wine bottle full of sparkling water plus two silver pots of tea plus eating the sandwiches and savories how i wondered could i possibly eat anything else too much chocolate for me it rather overpowered the rose i was afraid that asking for a to go box would be déclassé but when i asked for a box the server didn t bat an eye i did try two of the desserts a raspberry and dark chocolate rose cake which was almost too chocolatey and an apricot and pistachio macaron that left a coconut pineapple and ginger mousse sphere and a strawberry tart with black pepper but i packed up the scones and the clotted cream and the jam and the two desserts i couldn t finish once i was done eating the manager came by to tell me the history of prestonfield house and he also remarked on the box of sweets i was taking home i told him i couldn t possibly eat another bite but everything was divine he looked as pleased with this remark as if he had created the feast himself and everyone else i passed as i made my way to the front of the hotel was charming and pleasant and made me feel like i was someone famous and important the way they fell over themselves to wish me well of the three afternoon teas i think i liked prestonfield house the best it was elegant and cozy harrods was perhaps a little finer on the food but i just felt more comfortable at prestonfield house for one thing i wasn t ragged and sweating like i had been when i was walking in london and suffering a bum foot instead i had taken an uber to prestonfield house and i was perfectly put together though still with a bum foot the willow tea rooms was nice but not in the same class as harrods or prestonfield house it was more of your everyday afternoon tea whereas the other two promise special occasions i think prestonfield house felt like i could belong there where the georgian at harrods seemed more like a place you would go to be seen the only thing that would have made all three of these afternoon teas better would have been if you were there with me maybe next time entrance into prestonfield house a brown heilan coo placidly getting rained on teapot at prestonfield house strawberry pepper tart prestonfield sandwiches with the pineapple jackfruit one on the right another view of the rhubarb room so many glasses pineapple coconut ginger mousse ball pistachio macaron the peacock in a tree harrods matcha ball harrods apricot thyme tart harrods chandelier harrods chocolate mousse cake a view of edinburgh castle from willow tea rooms with an ugly lamp post with a seagull on it directly in front savory crackers at prestonfield house share this email a link to a friend opens in new window email share on facebook opens in new window facebook share on linkedin opens in new window linkedin share on x opens in new window x share on pinterest opens in new window pinterest like loading posted in writing in general tagged afternoon tea dessert edinburgh edinburgh castle harrods helian coo london peacock prestonfield house scotland tea leave a reply dispatch from edinburgh 4 islay and the whisky coast posted on july 14 2025 by jc reilly reply three years ago i went on a speyside whisky tour it was the first time i had ever tasted whisky and i was a total n00b about it but after the tour i realized that i liked whisky and could see drinking it on occasion especially on a cold dreary night that would remind me of scotland i realized too that i didn t like peated whisky because the smoky flavor reminded me too much of lapsang souchon tea which to my mind is an abomination in the tea world so i knew going on a tour to islay pronounced eye lah and the whisky coast would be problematic because all of the distilleries over there produce peated whiskies i was prepared not to like anything but that s not what happened fortunately we started our tour by driving west and a bit north through the trossachs and past loch lomond we stopped in callender which is little more than a high street but is known to be the gateway to the highlands since it is just south of the dividing line between the lowlands and the highlands i bought an airy loaf of cheddar jalapeño bread at mohr a local bakery for a snack but then we were off again the west highlands are are not nearly as dramatic as the eastern highlands but they are still quite beautiful and while i had traveled the roads through them before i was still glad to be able to see them again view from oban harbor norries fish and chips mmm we stopped for lunch in oban gateway to the isles which is a little sea resort town i ve been to before back when i went to the isle of mull i think anyway i went to nories for fish and chips and then walked along the streets to visit the oban chocolate company which i remembered from the last time i was in oban it was packed with people getting coffees and hot chocolates and candy bars i picked out a few truffles including a dark passionfruit crème a chili chuffle a ginger ganache cup a whisky truffle and a toffee orange truffle which i saved for later then i walked to the harbor and took some pictures there were people playing with their dogs on the beach but it was rather cold to my mind and i wondered what is it about dogs that they love to go into water especially freezing water kilmartin grave stone the bus picked us back up and then we continued on to kilmartin glen to look at some standing stones and to take a rather long walk to see some cairns somehow i don t have any pictures of this i m not sure why it s not like me maybe something happened with the camera but they were fine as far as standing stones go they were sort of in the middle of a field so i had to be careful of sheep pellets but i enjoyed the walk even though my foot was hurting still i was glad to get back on the bus later we stopped at a little church in kilmartin with gravestones from the 1300s 1500s whose carvings were faint now but still cool and then we headed down to kennacraig so we could board the ferry it was a long ferry ride and damp so damp maybe two hours but as always i remained outside to take in the air hoping to see some whales or dolphins i saw neither when we arrived in bowmore i was ready to get to our residence it turned out to be a kind of cottage attached to the bowmore distillery est 1779 called the old bakery everyone else i didn t get their names the norwegians the brazillian the the new yorkers the very friendly japanese couple and the father and son from maine gathered in the dining room to chat after dinner but i was ready to get into bed even though it was pretty early still i went over to the co op to get some cheese and crackers for dinner since i hadn t made any dinner reservations and a two liter of coke zero to make sure i got my caffeine over the next few days then i settled in for the night enjoying my black out curtains which i don t have at my place in edinburgh and i slept well even though i was in a tiny twin bed a bowmore dram bourbon cask after breakfast the next day we all walked over to the bowmore distillery for our tour i knew what to expect because i d been to distilleries before obviously but it was interesting because we actually got to see the barley on the malting floor where the barley begins to germinate that was new to me the tour guide encouraged us to touch it and he didn t seem to mind walking on the barley which i did not do because hello shoes aren t clean he took us to see the wash backs the mash tun and the stills and then to a room where the casks were stored where we enjoyed a taste of whiskies we tried the 2012 bourbon cask whisky first with a 53 5 alcohol content and it was dark amber and pretty peaty next we tried the 2010 oloroso sherry cask with a 54 6 alcohol content then we went into the bar where they gave us another whisky although i didn t see the bottle as well as pairing chocolate and a tiny dram of bowmore 18 year to take with us kilchoman spirit draff cart our next distillery was kilchoman which has only been in operation for 20 years because the proprietor just apparently decided he was going to start a distillery we got to see the same kind of operation but it was cool that the proprietor himself gave us the tour and we had whisky tastings at various stops throughout we even had a nosing glass on a lanyard to drink from which was very convenient one of the things we got to try was spirit that is un aged liquor right from the still and it was delicious super sweet basically it was alcoholic sugar water 63 5 it s the aging that makes it whisky but it was definitely interesting to drink and one of the things we learned there is that nothing goes to waste after the barley is used for the whisky it s still usable it still has proteins and nutrition so there s a conveyor belt which moves the barley into a large cart and then the barley called draff is sold as animal feed i don t believe they charge a lot for the draff in a way it s a chance for the distillery to give back to the farmers who live on islay and who help raise the barley the johnny walker dude after kilchoman we went to caol ila pronounced cull ee lah on the east coast of islay owned by johnny walker like cardhu in moray scotland is a johnny walker distillery which was just a whisky stop i just got a diet coke because after five or six drams i was pretty pickled already the driver robbie was very kind and because i was walking with my cane he said he d meet us down below in the disabled parking area to get us after our visit to the distillery everyone except the brazillian met up there apparently he hadn t heard that we were going to meet there we saw him walking on the long path upward so robbie said we ll just get him at the top of the path but in the interim the brazillian thought i ll go down and meet them so we were up at the top waiting for him and he was down at the bottom waiting for us so we drove back down to the bottom but the brazilian walked back up to the top it was some keystone cops hilarity happening we must have done this dance a couple more times and i said to the tour group we d lost him to the angel s share which made everyone laugh the angel s share is how much whisky evaporates each year that a whisky is in the cask finally robbie walked down by himself and got the brazilian it was pretty funny this back and forthing although i suppose it loses something in the translation then we went to bunnahabhain pronounced bunna hay ven for a whisky tasting these were unpeated whiskies 2022 abhain araig 2012 olorosso bott and something th...
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