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glen farm his peta shirt says people eating tasting animals this is weldon hawkins a 8th generation farmer his family has owned emerald glen farm for over 204 years weldon is one of the most interesting people i ve ever met in my life besides being an amazing farmer that grows some of the best pork chicken and beef i ve ever had he s also very active in the fight for sustainable organic farming and i love that in his biweekly emails he shares stories of life on the farm and even gives us a few recommendations on books to read sometimes things at the farm are great at one point weldon gave me 6 dozen eggs because he had too many and sometimes predators kill the turkey that i was gonna have for thanksgiving but alas such is the life weldon and his wife ariana make their work seem effortless in fact at this moment every single piece of meat i have in my fridge or freezer is from them and i m proud to say that if i can buy from them i do and i try to choose their products over anything in the grocery store as much as i can most recently weldon hooked me up with 30 lbs of pork belly most of that became bacon but you ll also recognize that some of the belly was used in the porchetta for the last supper chris moran is a cajun boy straight from baton rouge louisiana he started coming to nashville during the summer wanting to provide our very meager seafood supply with some fresh caught fish and shellfish straight from the gulf chris travels from louisiana to nashville every single week and operates out of the farmer s market thursday sunday we rarely ate seafood because it just wasn t available here every now and then we would have shrimp but thanks to chris we have seafood at least once and usually twice a week i loved using his shrimp when making the shrimp salmon mousseline sometimes you need something be an accessory to all of your cured meats and nothing is better than kathleen cotter s cheese stand the bloomy rind she sources great artisanal cheese from around the us with a stunning inventory from the southeastern us her collection of cheese is always varied and no one knows cheese better than kathleen and let s be honest what goes better with great cured meat products than some curdled milk products well maybe fermented grape products but curdled milk creations are always welcome food on its surface is always about the taste of flavor of a dish but food is also inextricably tied to people the people who produce it the people who cook it and the people who use food as a vehicle to build communities and relationships with others the journey of charcutepalooza elucidated that simple concept to me more than anything it s about real food and real people it s learning to try something new and not being afraid of it it s accepting your failures and learning from them it s celebrating your triumphs and sharing it with the world i will forever be grateful to cathy and kim for allowing me to be a part of this amazing adventure i have to thank michael ruhlman for providing us with the knowledge and advice in his book charcuterie he was also always available for any of us through twitter which was simply impressive you all have shown me things that i never dreamed of and for that i will always be grateful and to you the reader who has been on this journey with me what a ride it has been although charcutepalooza comes to an end the things i have learned will be with me forever the skills and techniques are now part of my repertoire just like how sauteing braising grilling or roasting are the relationships with the people who produce my food is one that i hope to grow and continue for a long long time and even though the challenge ends i have no doubt that i will continue this epicurean adventure as one door closes another opens and i for one can t wait to see where next year will take me hopefully it won t run my family out of the kitchen cheers vivek share this email a link to a friend opens in new window email print opens in new window print share on x opens in new window x share on facebook opens in new window facebook like loading 4 comments from charcutepalooza cooking philosophy entrees pork charcutepalooza project 11 curing and the butchery of the whole pig december 1 2011 tags charcutepalooza charcuterie local pepperoni pork sausage seasonal whole animal sometimes you take up a pretty hard project you have determination sure you have confidence and maybe just maybe you ve had some previous success that has bolstered your bravado so much that you think everything will go according to your plan i mean it should all be so effortless with a flawless finale right unfortunately for me this was not my month nor was it my best challenge earlier in the year i thought i was the man i made my own bacon and it was awesome i put 30 lbs of pork butt and 20 lbs of pork fat through a meat grinder and made tons of really really tasty sausage hog jowls were expertly butchered and simmered slowly in their own fat for the better part of a day before being pounded into rillettes my own hot dogs that was a cinch but at some point the charcuterie gods saw fit to strike down my hubris and leave me with a few strings of porky mold i was a bit heartbroken and to be honest i was too scared that i was going to get the plague if i even attempted to take a bite you see dried cured sausage is one of my favorite things on the planet aged spanish chorizo entices me with the smoky heat of paprika and garlic italian finocchiona redolent of black pepper and fennel seed is perfect on a small slice of baguette and some extra virgin olive oil and don t even get me started on how much i love nay adore pepperoni ubiquitous on pizza slices all around the world but a truly extraordinary product when done the old fashioned way pepperoni was what i sought to make the spicy cured sausage would be fantastic just thinly sliced before dinner or cooked in tomatoes to adorn pasta as a thick chunky sauce to sit below a roast chicken and yes even on some of my homemade pizza this is what i had been waiting for as i got all my spices together and mixed them with the meat put it through the grinder and stuffed everything into casings my mouth was literally watering it was going to take some time but dammit i wanted some pepperoni or peperone as ruhlman calls it the sausage links were there ready to be hung i don t really have any fancy curing room or one of those cool wine fridges the garage in our old house was perfect but since we moved i had never let anything cure and dry at our new house i put those gorgeous links up in a corner of the garage the first few days they looked amazing but soon to come was tragedy utter tragedy humiliation failure oh the horror we had to go out of town that means i couldn t check on my project for 2 entire days to eliminate any mold had it occurred and on that weekend the schizophrenic nature of tennessee s weather proved itself worthy of messing up everything 75 degrees one day 40 degrees at night 50 degrees the other day and almost freezing the next night and it rained long story short when we got back home on sunday night i anxiously ran to the garage to check on the sausages and there it was my beautiful pepperoni covered in a blue ish green mold i tried the tricks i tried to scrape it off i added vinegar but alas it was beyond repair it was ruined my dad even came to the garage saw what had happened and had the audacity to laugh and then leave shaking his head at first i was pretty mad like about to punch the garage wall mad i had put a ton of work into this sausage and the freakin weather killed it but after a day or two and as i started writing this post i came to the realization that i can t expect everything to always work out sometimes things like this happen sometimes you just have one really big up you just have to move on why because isn t that really what charcutepalooza is all about it s about getting out of your comfort zone please remember my first effort at making duck prosciutto was a miserable failure it s about trying something whether you succeed or fail everything doesn t always have to work out perfectly because when you fail you learn from your mistakes or simply pony up 200 to get a wine fridge you are humbled i was humbled and even though i failed at this one challenge at least i tried i almost made something that i would have never in my wildest dreams imagined this whole charcutepalooza thing has changed the way i cook the way i see ingredients hell i even charcutepalooza ed my turkey for thanksgiving this year i ve learned so much that even a small set back like my failed pepperoni can t take away all of the great things i ve learned and all the amazing relationships i ve made so even though i really tanked this one i wanted to share a story that really was something that took me out of my comfort zone a true epicurean adventure that has something to do with that picture at the top of this post chef jeremy barlow about to take the power tools out this year i ve met and developed friendships with a lot of local chefs one of them happens to be jeremy barlow jeremy is the chef owner of nashville s first and only green certified restaurant tayst he also recently cooked at the james beard foundation house this summer and that s a pretty big deal he s such a supporter of the local food movement that if you go into his walk in cooler at tayst he can not only tell you what farm every ingredient came from but how it is grown and who grew it his commitment to sustainability and improving our local food economy is inspiring jeremy opened up a new sandwich shop called sloco everything here is made from scratch the smoked ham home cured bacon the bread everything it s my kind of sandwich shop but jeremy and his staff also bring in a whole pig almost every week and butcher it in front of a huge window that looks out at the street you always see these kids walking by and glaring at a pig s head some people will walk by and be so intrigued it s a conversation starter it shocks you a little bit but most importantly it tells you where your food comes from and that s really something that is part of charcutepalooza s mission i asked jeremy when he opened up the new shop if i could ever come in and see him butcher a pig so one lucky day i got the call the pig was in the shop and chef jeremy was going to wait for me i was pretty excited when i got there the shop was about to close up for the day so i grabbed myself a sandwich and just dug in jeremy is also quite playful and had prepared a mcrib special slow cooked pork ribs that had been deboned topped with a homemade bbq sauce and sauteed onions and pickles it was amazing and for all you charcutepaloozer s there was also a headcheese sandwich once everything died down i washed up put on an apron got a knife and was ready to go unfortunately i couldn t take pictures while dismembering this beautiful animal as my hands got quite porky and his staff who i m sure found me to be quite the nuissance was busy prepping for the next day it was a great experience and i have to thank jeremy for allowing me to really do a good majority of the work he showed me a few cuts at the beginning helped me with the power tools and got more involved towards the end because i apparently work slower than a grandmother at some of these tasks regardless for most of the time jeremy was pretty patient with me and let me do most of the work while he sat back and relaxed the shop was closed he turned up the music and grabbed a beer and then proceeded to let me have at it to the untrained eye this is pretty daunting but it really surprised me how simple it was in the forefront you have the pork shoulder boston butt all the way down the right side you have the pork loin where your pork chops and roasts come from all the way down the left you have the ribs underneath the ribs you have pork belly my favorite cut of meat ever and in the back you have the ham i knew a good amount of where things come from on a pig but i learned a lot by finally experiencing it after about 2 and a half hours we broke down the entire pig skinned them and put everything for storage the pork belly was quickly put into a cure for bacon the loin and tenderloins where cut and taken to tayst the ham was going to be smoked and ready for the incredible ham and cheese sandwiches and all the bones and trotters were put in the stock pot not a single ounce of that pig was wasted every part was used that is the glory of going whole animal if we are to know where our food comes from to support these great local farmers we must be able to think in a way that broadens our horizons to use different items at the very least you should know what you are eating instead of some hunk of indistinguishable meat and if you ve never used it before just try it you may fail the dish might really suck but keep at it because there are only a few things holding you back be careful pay attention to detail have respect for the ingredients that you are using these are the things that i ve learned on this journey you can be damn sure i will try dried sausages again there is no doubt about that in my mind i may get a wine fridge through but this month i really came back down to earth i went back to basics and learned things about butchery i had never known before i came back with a renewed spirit a new notch on my experience and with more respect for these great local and organically raised ingredients that ole pile of porky mold predestined to be pepperoni will always remain in my memory however it s no longer a memory that conveys sadness it s a memory that will remind me of rejuvenation redemption and respect so on to the next one cheers vivek share this email a link to a friend opens in new window email print opens in new window print share on x opens in new window x share on facebook opens in new window facebook like loading 9 comments from charcutepalooza cooking philosophy my thanksgiving turkey november 29 2011 tags charcutepalooza thanksgiving turkey oh the thanksgiving holidays by now it has come and gone most of us are back to the normal routine but it s only tuesday and i am still recovering from a few days off work and a lazy food filled holiday besides playing a round of golf on saturday afternoon i lived in about 3 spots over the course of 5 days the kitchen the couch and my bedroom it was glorious mom and i have become masters of the stress free thanksgiving we start cooking 3 days out and just do a little bit every day the entire meal in all of its gluttonous glory comes together effortlessly this year before the first guests arrived all the food was ready the turkey was resting and i was sitting down with a great bourbon watching the packers lions game if you didn t know this was actually only our 3rd time making a turkey at home we never had much of a thanksgiving dinner growing up in fact we just ate pretty basic indian food the first year i brined...
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