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bles were big as fists washbacks from below after we looked at fermentation we went down to the still room apparently it can be highly explosive so we were required to stand on the concrete platform overlooking the copper stills and told not to touch any metal after i d seen the beautiful polished copper stills a cardhu these dusty dull looking stills did not impress me but i enjoyed looking at the spirit safe basically a glass box with analyzing equipment which is connected to the spirit still this is where the low wines alcohol spirit from the first distillation at the wash still gets analyzed to check for quality and redistilled in the spirit still if necessary the alcohol level increases up to 65 which comes out in three types the heads the tails and the heart the heads and tails spirit taste bad and are less desirable they tend to smell sulphuric and nobody wants to drink that the best part of the distilled spirit is the heart and that s what gets siphoned off to be barreled and developed into whisky there is only so much heart in a distilling process the rest gets removed still after our tour we had a tasting of 5 drams of liquor two of plain unaged spirit and one each of sherry port and table whisky both of the unaged spirits had a nice flavor but not any of the tones and flavors that would develop over time in a cask i took a sniff of the rich vanilla y sherry aroma and thought it was going to be great i took one sip of it and set it back down i thought sherry was sweet our tour guide said that a lot of folks believe that because we are more familiar with the old dears who drink cream of sherry at christmastime i laughed when he said that the next dram was port it was sweet a little too sweet but i finished it the final dram was table whisky which is whisky that is young i think and often aged in virgin casks so it tends to be a little woodsy i thought it was fine though i ve tasted better it didn t have quite the burn of the single malt scotches i ve tried before but then the guide said that you could buy a bottle for 30 in tesco which is less than half the price of a decent bottle of single malt and after we finished that fifth dram we went back upstairs to the gift shop where we had one more dram to taste this was a white port and it was delicious it would have been marvelous with a bit of either seltzer or ginger ale but by itself it was very sweet and summery i would have liked to have bought the white port but i am always confronted with the dilemma of how to get it back home you can t bring it back in your carry on and i don t want to put a glass bottle in my checked luggage because heaven only knows how our suitcases get banged around in the plane s hold needless to say i didn t buy it though i would have very much liked to flight of drams afterwards i stopped in tesco to get a few groceries and then took the tram back home i might go to the leith farmers market tomorrow i haven t decided but if i do i m sure i ll post about it still with an onion bulge royal yacht britannia our guide coll apartments if you look hard enough you can see the forth bridge in the background not sure what the yellow things are but this was a view from the 6th floor a couple of ships in leith harbor share this email a link to a friend opens in new window email share on facebook opens in new window facebook share on linkedin opens in new window linkedin share on x opens in new window x share on pinterest opens in new window pinterest like loading posted in writing in general tagged distillery leith leith harbor port of leith distillery royal yacht britannia ships whisky leave a reply dispatch from edinburgh 2 return to mull iona posted on july 2 2026 by jc reilly reply i know i said i was going to write about the isle of skye next but my trip to the isle of mull and iona is on my mind so i ll come back to skye i will always come back to skye that place is amazing for this trip i took a train over to glasgow to pick up the rabbie s tour which was leaving at 9 but my train was at 6 which meant i left my flat at 5 and walked to waverly station at a slow pace to accommodate my dumb foot the 6 o clock train was an express which meant it only made 5 stops as opposed to later trains which would make more like 13 stops and would take up to an hour and a half to get to glasgow the last time i took a regular train to glasgow we had a 30 minute delay and i didn t want to take the chance that might happen again i made it with no trouble to glasgow though walked to the bus station and like john lennon waited for the van to come fortunately i got to the bus station before it decided to rain like hell when our tour guide arrived he was great fun from the get go he asked where people were from and did a find job of remembering everyone s names and then he said something which totally surprised me he said i m not going to say anything that jc reilly doesn t already know i said what he added she s been on 50 000 rabbie s tours and then of course he continued the joke to say that i had also been to vegas and what happened in vegas stayed in vegas it got a good laugh from everyone but i was mystified because how could he have known that i d been on so many rabbie s tours in the past i was determined to figure out this mystery turns out he looks people s rabbie s records up before a tour and saw i had been on a ton so he thought he would yank my chain a little we made our first comfort break at luss which is on loch lomond and it s a card only payment to get into the bathroom but the card reader wasn t working so i thought i would use the baby change handicapped bathroom but as i was about to put in my 50p the woman who came out gave a scathing review of the bathroom there was something foul all over the floor the toilet was leaking she said it s grim in there which was remarkably subdued for a scot to describe something and then she and i had a nice little blether right there in front of the bathroom she said she thought i was scottish but then picked up on my accent and asked me about home she wandered off to get someone to clean up and i decided the smart thing i would do on a full bladder was buy a 2 liter bottle of seltzer water because that makes sense but i did eventually use the bathroom and it was fine and you might ask why did i share this it s because talking with strangers would wind up being a theme for the weekend loch tulla i ve not mentioned this before but the trip up north to the highlands has two paths either you go through glen coe on the a82 or you go through the cairngorms on the a9 although it basically makes one big loop after loch lomond we drove up to a viewpoint at loch tulla and then through rannoch moor where we stopped to see etive mòr besides being the most photographed mountain in scotland as i mentioned in the previous blog etive mòr has the distinction of being featured in skyfall the 2012 james bond movie and our guide nick was very good with the tunage because he played adele s song skyfall which i d never heard before because i live under a rock and i liked it a lot though it was a big repetitive very appropriately bond ish i didn t get out of the bus to take another picture but i did enjoy seeing the mountain again rannoch moor then it was off to glen coe to see the three sisters by this time the rain had burned off and the three sisters stood in their majestic sunny glory what was unusual this time at the mountains was that a man in full kilt played the bagpipes badly nick walked past me and said in a low voice it d be guid if he could fookin play the bagpipes right i had to smile nick was so vehement the poor playing did not however despoil the beauty of the three sisters and actually even though the piper wasn t so great i thought it was nice that he was out there piping away his collection plate was pretty bare but that didn t seem to stop him from doing his busking thing after i enjoyed a plate of interesting scottish nachos fortunately haggis free at the glen coe visiting center sorry for no photo i couldn t find my phone but the chips were like 1 2 inch triangles we continued on our way driving on the ballachulish bridge over the narrows of the saltwater loch linnhe pron linny and loch leven a bridge that i ve been over before but i hadn t heard this story which i m about to relate loch linnhe apparently the residents of this area were very superstitious and never wanted a bridge because it had been predicted that if a bridge was completed over the loch danger and heartbreak would befall the town faeries might have been involved but with the closing of the ballachulish ferry people still needed to cross the water so when the cleveland bridge engineering company talked to the locals they learned about this superstition and honored it when they built the bridge they left the last bolt off which meant the bridge was not complete thus keeping the town safe we finally got to the ferry point first we took the 3 minute corran ferry ride then we drove a bit more to get to the second ferry this one which dropped us off at fishnish on mull it might have been the lochalline fishnish ferry but i m iffy about the placenames whatever ferry we sailed on we got the chance to get out of the bus to sit in the lounge on the port side it was raining so hard by this point that you could not even see the horizon it was just a wall of water but 20 minutes or so later we were back on the bus and driving off the ferry to make the 17 mile trip to tobermory where our accommodations were unfortunately while my b b was very nice it was at least a 20 minute walk for a person with good feet down a steep steep hill meaning coming back up would be a nightmare to get to the harbor at tobermory so i just decided i would do without dinner because i wasn t going to be walking another person on the tour staying at the b b victoria knocked on my door and asked me what my plans for dinner were and i told her that with my foot that i was just going to stay in for the night she offered to get me something but i said thanks anyway and she toddled off but much later i heard a tiny knock on my door and she had shown up with a sandwich and crisps for me her kindness floored me and she wouldn t take any money for her gift i was so touched and believe me it was the best british pork and mature cheddar sandwich minus the pork i d ever eaten after that i slept at 8 40 the next morning nick picked us up and we went around tobermory and gathered the other tour members it was drizzly although the sun peeked through here and there normally on this tour we d have taken a boat ride to the isle of staffa and i was looking forward to going because the last time i went i didn t feel well and i neither climbed up the scary steps to get to the top of staffa to see the puffins nor did i risk the long but tiny path around the side of staffa to explore fingal s cave this time i had planned on being brave and trying to walk to the cave even with the bad foot but because of the unpredictable weather and choppiness of the sea the voyage was canceled everyone on the tour was disappointed but nick planned for us to visit duart castle instead duart castle south view duart is as castles go a moderately sized castle with some white washed walls it is the ancestral home of clan maclean pron mac layne that dates from the 12 th century and it sits on the tip of a peninsula that juts out in the sound of mull it was used as a home well into the 20 th century the first room you enter is a small kitchen with a coal hob used up until 1960 it s hard to believe that a kitchen that small served a castle and i read on one of the notes on the walls that by the time the food reached the dining room which was another floor or two up the food was often cold so you can imagine that water for baths would also have been cold living in a castle while the dream of every young girl and old girl like me could not have been particularly comfortable or cozy but early castles were built for defense not luxury after all the ground floor also contains the dungeons and small jail cells that a person could barely sit in but after you pass through the dark and dinge you climb up the stairs into the pantry and sea room which was a later addition to the castle allowing for a beautiful view of the sound and loch linnhe i sat there as the castle guide talked about the restorations of duart castle and looked north out into the sound at the very far edge you can see ben nevis and somehow the guide was quite pleased that we could see scotland s tallest mountain despite the clouds silver service at duart castle the sea room leads into the great hall which included the dining room which impressed with its antiques and silver although it was not overly large there was a fire going in an iron stove and it smelled woodsy and wonderful and helped chase the chill from the room in cases were jewelry and weapons and on the pool table was a glass case full of silver tureens pitchers bowls and other table settings but my favorite thing was a large smoky quartz brooch that a person would wear on their cloak they offered a replica of it in the gift shop but it was a little out of my price range especially because it wasn t silver brooch upstairs were the bedrooms staterooms for guests as well as the bathroom that still had the toilet tub and sink from the 1912 renovation by sir fitzroy the 26 th chief i didn t go upstairs to see them i watched a video because to get there you d have to climb a spiral staircase with a hand rope and i didn t think i could manage it after visiting the great hall i left the castle and went to stand at the battlements and look out over the water for a bit before going into the café for a cheese scone and then we were off to iona the calmac ferry only took about 20 minutes to get there and because we didn t have a trip to staffa in the offing nick gave us over 3 hours on the island this visit i was determined to see the abbey the last time i was there 2023 we d only been given an hour for lunch on the island because we needed the rest of the time to get to staffa and so i didn t get a chance to walk there this time i was going it had grown cold and windy though so the walk to the abbey was bracing i found a bench across from the hotel gardens and enjoyed the many dogs that walked by but eventually after resting my foot i continued the walk and got to the abbey itself iona abbey iona abbey is smallish but appropriately sized for being the first christian site in scotland apparently how the aristocratic st columba chose its spot had to do with his wanting a place from which he could not view ireland anymore he had been chased out of that country over a plagiarism dispute around 560 unfortunately he chose a site on a dark dreary day when the sun came back out he could see ireland after all but he chose not to move his community the abbey dates from around 1200 long after st columba s time io...
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