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description= He drank from a different fountain;
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all and soon the street outside his little shop started to fill news of my being there spread like wildfire we could not believe it shepherds with mobile phones appeared from the mountains scions of those who had sheltered the kidnap party we were invited into homes feasts were prepared glasses were raised it was so extraordinary and so unexpected over the next days we were taken up to mount ida psiloritis along tracks and into caves where my father had trodden and slept and then escorted to anogia i was so nervous about anogia after all the reprisals how dare i go there and what would i be confronting there anogia had risen phoenix like from its ashes the biggest village in all of crete the reprisals and the history were not brushed under the carpet for me instead wonderful guides showed us all explained all sparing nothing and then led us to meet well known families of the resistance there was overwhelming hospitality gunshots as a salute more welcomes more feasts there and everywhere we went we were taken to hideouts to family chapels much later we learned more about anogia in particular and the dark complexities that these families had faced since helping the british but i can only say that in our dozen or so visits to crete since that first visit i have on rare occasions met with reserve but never once with hostility mostly i have been deluged with goodwill and astonished by the enthusiasm that my visit was generating now as in war it seemed that it meant a huge amount how can i put it for their story not to be forgotten remembered by the outside world for me this reception has been astonishing and truly humbling we met so many amazing people who over these last years have become dear friends like second families widows children even grandchildren a few very old but still vigorous men who remembered my father and were with him in 1944 they have all died now but that was so precious i could tell you so many stories i will tell you about iorgis from the tiny eyrie like village of patsos small and strong and wiry he was close to ninety and almost completely blind when we met him much later his daughter told us what a harsh and tragic life he d had we would never have guessed he took us up to the large overhanging cave where my father was sheltered for many days he was as sure footed as a mountain goat and so quick we could barely keep up he spoke no english and we spoke no greek luckily others translated for us because as we sat down to an extraordinary instant feast the stories were gushing out of him and it was wonderful to see him chuckling away and so clearly enjoying his memories he had been younger than my father probably about 20 and he recounted how one day the two of them were out on the mountain when a german spotter plane appeared they dived into a hollow and my father pulled some vegetation over them and there they stayed hidden while the plane circled and circled overhead and my father sang it s a long way to tipperary amazing iorgis who spoke not a single word of english how he laughed as he sang it to us after almost 70 years also in patsos we met vassily who had been in the greek special forces younger than us and fiercely proud of his village s history his first words to me were an enthusiastic congratulations on your father he told us that to this day the army uses the kidnap route to train its special forces and indeed people come from all over the world for expeditions along the route have even written books about it it is legend and really tough as my father wrote in his diary crete appeared to be one big rock only more so after my family had successfully reclaimed the rights to ill met by moonlight and my father s other works which happened to coincide with when we first started visiting crete my husband and i came to a decision at the university of crete we set up two annual prizes in my father s name funded mostly by the royalties from his books and other work it is a world class university which as a result of greece s financial crisis had had its budget cut by 50 i was very nervous at the inaugural prize giving ceremony that my father would be falsely presented as a sort of pure white hero for my benefit but i need not have worried the dean gave an unforgettably philosophical speech about war and atonement and redemption and the time honoured use since classical times of acts of atonement or commemoration the prizes are now in their eleventh year and we feel we have acquired another academic family every year in my speech lest they forget i repeat that the prizes exist to honour the cretans in my father s name they are the only means i have to salute them to give something back on his behalf and to express my gratitude and admiration the very first prize winner in 2014 was a young woman who grew up listening to her grandfather s stories he had been involved in the kidnap operation she entered the competition in his memory last year one of the winners told me that he had entered the year before but had not won this time he had won and he was so pleased he said that the prize was a real motivation to produce an excellent piece of work this was lovely to hear hopefully it is truly a legacy next month will be the 80th anniversary of the abduction the exact spot at the junction with the road to knossos is marked by a memorial and every year wreaths are laid a ceremony will certainly be held this year as for me i remember paddy telling how they looked up at the stars and it is whenever i look up at night and see the stars especially orion s belt that i think of paddy and billy looking up at them and finding their way by them all those years ago share this share on facebook opens in new window facebook share on x opens in new window x email a link to a friend opens in new window email print opens in new window print more share on reddit opens in new window reddit share on linkedin opens in new window linkedin like loading this entry was posted in ill met by moonlight and tagged billy moss crete gabriella bullock ill met by moonlight major general heinrich kreipe patrick leigh fermor soe special operations executive william stanley moss on august 29 2026 by proverbs6to10 as i was dreaming about walking as i walked out one midsummer morning 4 replies as you know i love to walk and it s now been a whole two months since i completed my long walk along the river elbe time to start thinking about another one for the autumn it made me think about the amazing adventure that laurie lee had when he travelled to spain in 1935 described in his beautiful work as i walked out one midsummer morning we all love paddy and the stories of his walk across europe at a similar time but lee did not come from a relatively wealthy middle class background in fact he was quite poor not for him the pound a week at post restantes all he carried was an old rucksack and his violin for his year long adventure as summer here in england nears its end i thought you might like to read a little bit of lee as i walked out one midsummer morning into spain it was early and still almost dark when our ship reached the harbour and when out of the unconscious rocking of sea and sleep i was simultaneously woken and hooked to the coast of spain by the rattling anchor going over the side lying safe in the old ship s blowsy care i didn t want to move at first i d enjoyed the two slow days coming down the english channel and across the bay of biscay smelling the soft gulf winds blowing in from the atlantic and feeling the deep easy roll of the ship but this was vigo the name on my ticket and as far as its protection would take me so i lay for a while in the anchored silence and listened to the first faint sounds of spain a howling dog the gasping spasms of a donkey the thin sharp cry of a cockerel then i packed and went up on to the shining deck and the spanish sun rose too and for the first time in my life i saw looped round the bay the shape of a foreign city i d known nothing till then but the smoother surfaces of england and vigo struck me like an apparition it seemed to rise from the sea like some rust corroded wreck as old and bleached as the rocks around it there was no smoke or movement among the houses everything looked barnacled rotting and deathly quiet as though awaiting the return of the flood i landed in a town submerged by wet green sunlight and smelling of the waste of the sea people lay sleeping in doorways or sprawled on the ground like bodies washed up by the tide but i was in spain and the new life beginning i had a few shillings in my pocket and no return ticket i had a knapsack blanket spare shirt and a fiddle and enough words to ask for a glass of water so the chill of dawn left me and i began to feel better the drowned men rose from the pavements and stretched their arms lit cigarettes and shook the night from their clothes bootblacks appeared banging their brushes together and strange vivid girls went down the streets with hair like coils of dripping tar and large mouths red and savage still a little off balance i looked about me saw obscure dark eyes and incomprehensible faces crumbling walls scribbled with mysterious graffiti an armed policeman sitting on the town hall steps and a photograph of marx in a barber s window nothing i knew was here and perhaps there was a moment of panic anyway i suddenly felt the urge to get moving so i cut the last cord and changed my shillings for pesetas bought some bread and fruit left the seaport behind me and headed straight for the open country i spent the rest of the day climbing a steep terraced valley then camped for the night on a craggy hilltop some primitive instinct had forced me to leave the road and climb to this rocky tower which commanded an eagle s view of the distant harbour and all the hills and lagoons around it here sitting on a stone about six miles inland i could look out in all directions see where i was in the landscape where i d been that day and much of the country still to come wild and silent like a picture of western ireland it rolled rhythmically and desolately away and faced with its alien magnificence i felt a last pang of homesickness and the first twinge of uneasy excitement the galician night came quickly the hills turned purple and the valleys flooded with heavy shadow the jagged coastline below now dark and glittering looked like sweepings of broken glass vigo was cold and dim an unlighted ruin already smothered in the dead blue dusk only the sky and the ocean stayed alive running with immense streams of flame then as the sun went down it seemed to drag the whole sky with it like the shreds of a burning curtain leaving rags of bright water that went on smoking and smouldering along the estuaries and around the many islands i saw the small white ship my last link with home flare like a taper and die away in the darkness then i was alone at last sitting on a hilltop my teeth chattering as the night wind rose i found a rough little hollow out of the wind a miniature crater among the rocks ate some bread and dates unrolled the blanket and wrapped myself inside it i laid the fiddle beside me used the knapsack as a pillow and stretched out on the bed of stones then folded my hands hooked my little fingers together shut my eyes and prepared to sleep but i slept little that night i was attacked by wild dogs or they may have been galician wolves they came slinking and snarling along the ridge of my crater hackles bristling against the moon and only by shouting throwing stones and flashing my torch in their eyes was i able to keep them at bay not till early dawn did they finally leave me and run yelping away down the hillside when i fell at last into a nightmare doze feeling their hot yellow teeth in my bones when i awoke next morning it was already light and voices were screaming at one another in the valley i looked at my watch and it was six o clock and i was heavily drenched in dew i wriggled out of the blanket crawled on to the ridge and lay in the rising sun and was met by the resinous smell of drying bushes peppery herbs and stones as i warmed my stiff limbs i looked down the valley from which the sharp hard cries were coming and saw a group of old women as black as charcoal slapping out sheets along the banks of a stream galician peasants women and spanish unknown and doubly inscrutable their thin bent bodies knelt over the water jerking up and down like drinking hens and as they worked they shrieked firing off metallic bursts of speech that bounced off the rocks like bullets i lay on my belly the warm earth against me and forgot the cold dew and the wolves of the night i felt it was for this i had come to wake at dawn on a hillside and look out on a world for which i had no words to start at the beginning speechless and without plan in a place that still had no memories for me for as i woke that second morning with the whole of spain to walk through i was in a country of which i knew nothing the names of velásquez goya el greco lope de vega juan de la cruz were unknown to me i d never heard of the cordovan moors or the catholic kings nor of the alhambra or the escorial or that trafalgar was a spanish cape gibraltar a spanish rock or that it was from here that columbus had sailed for america my small country school always generous with its information as to the exports of queensland and the fate of jenkins s ear had provided me with nothing more tangible or useful about spain than that seville had a barber and barcelona nuts but i was innocent then of my ignorance and so untroubled by it my clothes steamed and dried as the sun grew stronger the distant sea shone white a clean morning freshness after last night s smoky fires the rising hills before me went stepping away inland fiercely shaped under the great blue sky i nibbled some bread and fruit rolled my things in a bundle and washed my head and feet in a spring then shouldering my burden and still avoiding the road i took a track south east for zamora for three or four days i followed the track through the hills but saw only occasional signs of life sometimes a shepherd s hut or a distant man walking or a solitary boy with a flock of goats otherwise no sound or movement except the eagles overhead and the springs gushing out of the rocks the track climbed higher into the clear cold air and i just followed it hoping to keep direction when twilight came i curled up where i was too exhausted to mind the cold one night i took shelter in a ruined castle which i found piled on top of a crag a gaunt roofless fortress tufted with the nests of ravens and scattered with abandoned fires the skeleton of a sheep stood propped in one corner picked clean like a wicker basket and drawings of women and horses were scratched round the walls an obvious refuge i thought for bandits but i slept well enough in the tottering place in spite of its audible darkness the rustling in the walls the squeaks and twitters an...
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