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ide the arcadia hotel street side looking south across the bluffs the arcadia hotel sits at the end of the pier 1888 senator jones miramar mansion 1890s edit when the southern pacific railroad arrived at los angeles a dispute erupted over where to locate the seaport the sp preferred santa monica while others advocated for san pedro bay the long wharf was built in 1893 at the north end of santa monica to accommodate large ships and was dubbed port los angeles at the time it was constructed it was the longest pier in the world at 4700 feet and accommodated a train the plan did not last san pedro bay now known as the port of los angeles was selected by the united states congress in 1897 still the long wharf acted as the major port of call for los angeles until 1903 though the final decision disappointed jones and other property owners the selection allowed santa monica to maintain its scenic charm the rail line down to santa monica canyon was sold to the pacific electric railway and was in use from 1891 to 1933 meanwhile abbot kinney acquired deed to the coastal strip previously purchased by w d vawter and named the area ocean park in 1895 it became his first amusement park and residential project a race track and golf course were built on the ocean park casino after a falling out with his partners he focused on the south end of the property which he made into venice of america santa monica in the 1890s long wharf with train 1893 bustling santa monica beach 1890 view north from hotel arcadia arcadia hotel 1893 note the 3 piers panorama of ocean park from pier 1890 1900s edit amusement piers became enormously popular in the first decades of the 20th century the extensive pacific electric railroad easily transported to the beaches people from across the greater los angeles area competing pier owners commissioned ever larger roller coaster rides wooden piers turned out to be readily flammable but even destroyed piers were soon replaced there were five piers in santa monica alone with several more down the coast the earliest part of the current santa monica pier which is now the last remaining amusement pier was built in 1909 on what was referred to as the north bay the second half an amusement park pier was built later and the two rival piers were merged among the south bay piers the most notable in this period was abbot kinney s venice of america pier started in 1904 and built to rival his former partner s ocean park pier located at the end of windward avenue in venice kinney s pier was 900 feet long 30 feet wide and included an auditorium large replica ship cafe dance hall dentzel carousel a japanese tea house and an ocean inn restaurant 7 venice soon became considered its own neighborhood a new charter was adopted in 1906 that converted the city government to a mayor council form of government under the new charter the city council was composed of one mayor with veto power and one councilmember from each of its seven wards around the start of the 20th century a growing population of asian americans lived in or near santa monica and venice a japanese fishing village was located near the long wharf while small numbers of chinese lived or worked in both santa monica and venice the two ethnic minorities were often viewed differently by white americans who were often well disposed towards the japanese but condescending towards the chinese the japanese village fishermen were an integral economic part of the santa monica bay community 8 santa monica in the 1900s ocean park coast 1900 kinney s venice pier 1905 japanese fishing village at the end of the long wharf 1900 santa monica 1905 1910s edit fraser s million dollar pier claimed to be the largest in the world at 1250 feet long and 300 feet wide the pier housed a spacious dance hall two carousels an exhibit of premature babies in incubators at frederick house 9 the crooked house fun house the grand electric railroad the starland vaudeville theater breaker s restaurant and a panama canal model exhibit it burned 15 months after it opened 7 a new charter was adopted in 1914 that converted the city government to a commission form this proved to be very weak especially since the police commissioner was poorly paid and had no accountability auto racing became popular drivers would race an 8 4 mile loop made up of city streets the free for all race was conducted between 1910 and 1912 the united states grand prix was held in santa monica in 1914 and 1916 awarding the american grand prize and the vanderbilt cup trophies by 1919 the events were attracting 100 000 people at which point the city halted them santa monica in the 1910s ocean park pier burns 1912 santa monica city hall 1910 steps down the palisades 1915 1920s edit donald wills douglas sr founded the douglas aircraft company in 1921 with his first plant on wilshire boulevard he built a plant in 1922 at clover field santa monica airport which was in use for 46 years in 1924 four douglas built planes took off from clover field to attempt the first aerial circumnavigation of the world two planes made it back after having covered 27 553 miles in 175 days and were greeted on their return september 23 1924 by a crowd of 200 000 generously estimated the douglas company later mcdonnell douglas kept facilities in the city until 1975 the entire facility was demolished and removed by 1977 club casa del mar at pico blvd in 1922 a local newspaper discussing african americans stated we don t want you here now and forever this is to be a white man s town 10 the nationwide prosperity of the 1920s was felt in santa monica the population increased from 15 000 to 32 000 at the end of the decade downtown saw a construction boom with many important buildings going up such as henshey s department store destroyed and the criterion theater elegant resorts were opened including the 1925 miramar hotel and the 1926 club casa del mar the los angeles firm of walker eisen designed the art deco bay city building a 13 story skyscraper topped with a huge four faced clock that was finished in 1930 beach volleyball is believed to have been developed in santa monica during this time duke kahanamoku brought a form of the game with him from hawaii when he took a job as athletic director at the beach club competition began in 1924 with six person teams and by 1930 the first game with two person teams took place ocean park bathhouse la monica ballroom opened in 1924 on the santa monica pier it was capable of holding 10 000 dancers in its over 15 000 square foot 1 400 m 2 area a major storm in 1926 almost destroyed the pier and the ballroom necessitating major repairs la monica hosted many national radio and television broadcasts in the early days of networks before it was finally torn down in 1962 from 1958 to 1962 the ballroom became one of the largest roller skating rinks in the western u s comedian will rogers bought a substantial ranch in santa monica canyon in 1922 among his improvements was a polo field where he played with friends spencer tracy walt disney and robert montgomery upon his untimely death it was discovered that he had generously deeded to the public the ranch now known as will rogers state historic park will rogers state park and will rogers state beach more recent residents of santa monica canyon have included christopher isherwood don bachardy jane fonda and tom hayden the last two who previously lived in ocean park the southern rim of the canyon is the oldest residential part of santa monica while most of the canyon is in the city of los angeles santa monica 1922 in 1928 will rogers sold a parcel with two large houses on the beach at the base of the bluffs to william randolph hearst who then gave it to marion davies architect julia morgan oversaw the construction of what ultimately became the 7 million 5 building 118 room ocean house as with other lavish hearst morgan projects it contained entire rooms removed from antique european buildings davies was a vivacious and popular hostess and ocean house saw many grand parties of hollywood celebrities davies sold the property in 1945 for just 600 000 to a failed attempt at a hotel most of the property was torn down in 1958 leaving only the north house with a marble pool and tennis courts the remaining property was sold to the state of california and leased as the private sand and sea club following the expiration of the 30 year lease in 1990 management of the property was turned over to the city of santa monica for a short period of time until the 1994 northridge earthquake the city operated the site as a public beach facility it was also used as a shooting location most notably in the tv show beverly hills 90210 in which it was the beverly hills beach club redevelopment of the property has been a political issue in the city since the 1990s in 2006 the city council approved plans for the first ever public beach club which included the rehabilitation of the property and construction of new facilities the project now under construction is made possible by a generous gift from the annenberg foundation at the recommendation of wallis annenberg and in partnership with the city of santa monica and california state parks the annenberg community beach house at santa monica state beach opened to the public on april 25 2009 the total construction costs were roughly 30 million local residents succeeded in forcing the city to significantly limit its hours of operation the area around the davies mansion became known as the gold coast stretching along pacific coast highway between santa monica canyon and the santa monica pier it became fashionable in the 1930s for beach homes of discrete celebrities following the lead of rogers and davies other actors with homes there have included norma talmadge greta garbo and cary grant douglas fairbanks spent his last years living there peter lawford had a house there in the 1960s ed kolpin jr opened a small tobacco pipe and cigar store in santa monica the tinder box in 1928 later it moved to its current location in 1948 where it began serving the many hollywood celebrities living nearby part of the attraction were the famous pipes handmade by kolpin himself in 1959 kolpin began a tobacco store franchise at first locally and then by the mid 1960s there were tinder box stores in malls across america the franchise business was sold in the 1970s but kolpin still owns and operates the original store as of 2003 1930s edit covered wagon in pioneer days parade in santa monica 1931 the great depression hit santa monica deeply one report gives citywide employment in 1933 of just 1 000 hotels and office building owners went bankrupt the pleasure piers were a cheap form of entertainment that got cheaper attracting a coarser crowd muscle beach located just south of the santa monica pier started to attract gymnasts and body builders who put on free shows for the public and continues till today in the 1930s corruption infected santa monica along with neighboring los angeles this aspect of the city is depicted in various raymond chandler novels where santa monica is thinly disguised as bay city a sequence in chandler s farewell my lovely was inspired by the true story of the s s rex 11 beginning in 1928 gambling ships started anchoring in santa monica bay just beyond the 3 mile 5 6 km limit water taxis ferried patrons from santa monica and venice the largest such ship was the s s rex launched in 1938 and capable of holding up to 3 000 gamblers at a time the rex was a red flag to anti gambling interests after state attorney general earl warren got a court order to shut the ships down as a nuisance the crew of the rex initially fought off police by using water cannons and brandishing sub machine guns the engine less ship surrendered after nine days in what newspapers called the battle of santa monica bay its owner anthony cornero went on to build the stardust casino in las vegas nevada the greatest benefit to the city came from the douglas corporation when it built the dc 3 commercial aircraft the dc 3 which first flew from clover field was a terrifically successful airliner that transformed the air transportation business and brought needed jobs to the city in a more modest show of entrepreneurship merle norman founded merle norman cosmetics in 1931 by making creams and cosmetics on her kitchen stove both her former house and her 1933 streamline styled business headquarters are well maintained the federal works project administration helped build several buildings in the city most notably city hall the 1938 art deco structure was designed by donald parkinson and features terrazzo mosaics by stanton macdonald wright the main post office and barnum hall santa monica high school auditorium were among several other wpa projects 1940s edit santa monica swimming club luau 1949 douglas s business grew astronomically with the onset of world war ii employing as many as 44 000 people in 1943 to defend against air attack set designers from the warner brothers studios prepared elaborate camouflage that disguised the factory and airfield 12 13 in 1945 santa monica city college started the community radio workshop crw to teach returning gis broadcasting and used the call letters kcrw later kcrw became a popular and innovative npr affiliate the sears building was built in 1947 at the south end of the retail district and has retained architect rowland crawford s original late moderne styling the rand corporation began as a project of the douglas company in 1945 and spun off into an independent think tank on may 14 1948 rand eventually acquired a 15 acre 61 000 m 2 campus centrally located between the civic center and the pier entrance as a response to the corruption and inefficiency that grew in the 1930s the current charter was enacted in 1946 the city government adopted a council manager government 1950s edit dedication of a memorial for nisei who died serving the united states santa monica 1959 papermate opened its santa monica factory in 1957 the plant produced 600 million ballpoint pens in 1971 and closed in 2005 the 3 000 seat santa monica civic auditorium was built on the site of santa monica s red lined african american neighborhood known as belmar construction began soon after the removal of belmar s residents the auditorium was designed in the international style by welton becket opened in 1958 14 from 1961 to 1968 the academy of motion picture arts and sciences held its annual oscar awards ceremony there performers that have appeared over the decades include joan baez the beach boys tony bennett david bowie dave brubeck buzzcocks the carpenters ray charles the clash bill cosby bob dylan ella fitzgerald allen ginsberg arlo guthrie jimi hendrix bob hope elton john led zeppelin andré previn public enemy ramones the rolling stones pete seeger bruce springsteen and the e street band t rex jonathan winters and countless others since the late 1980s the auditorium has been more popular for trade...
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