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ths maybe with impending me made may i had a light bulb moment and realised that if i devoted a month or two to sewing some boring staples filling the gaps in my wardrobe with good base items then maybe it would be more fun to supplement it with frivolous sews because at least i would have something to wear them with it seems to be working and my resistance to basics is lifting i ve recently sewn black culottes skinny jeans cream palazzos navy cropped pants basically the basics which brings me to today s business which is to heavily plug the ogden cami slash camis in general and why you should sew one i have the bottoms department fairly well covered now but tops is another thing i don t even know what i like to wear on top any more to give you some idea of my lack of idea i sewed this kimono about two years ago it has remained mostly unworn and not just because of the funny thing about not wearing garments before they re safely photographed but also because i just didn t know what to wear with it or under it and buying wasn t an option obvs so there it sat step in ogden cami hellooooo like everyone else has been saying it s the luxy staple my wardrobe has been crying out for the art of the cami is a fine one and in my now cami knowledgable opinion the perfect cami is not too blousy not too fitted so that it can be enjoyed tucked in or out the ogden hits that sweet spot as you can see here i started with it out and eventually tucked it in this kind of versatility is pretty great especially if you find yourself with an almost entirely highwaisted wardrobe proportions are everything the ogden is a relatively quick make i was expecting it to be super quick but it took a few hours possibly because i decided to french seam the insides because i didn t want to change overlocker thread i m sure by the second or third you could be in a good rhythm and knock one out in under 2 hours maybe i am just slow anyway the instructions are friendly there s also a sewalong if you prefer more visuals but it s pretty straightforward the only mod i made was to reduce the strap width by 1 4 i like a delicate cami strap just aesthetics is all of course i will sew an army of ogdens now in fact i have another cut already now seems like as good a time as ever to confess that this whole outfit is made by yours truly bar underwear and shoes after my first successful foray into diy jeans i thought i would have a go at knocking off a favourite pair of rtw skinny jeans that i paid a lot of money for but now doesn t count because i ve got the pattern and it s mine to knock off forever mwahaha these jeans are really deserving of their own post which will come they were like the third child i never birthed and threatened to abandon by the roadside however what i will say for now is that this denim is noteworthy in itself it s from indiesew and truly one of the nicest denim fabrics i ve seen sewn and worn it s soft but snug and hasn t bagged out so far this little kimono i also knocked off a rtw piece of a friend s i loved the cocoon shape i picked up a little of this jaw dropping printed silk from emma one sock a few years ago and it s certainly magical but also crazy slippery and never stays on my shoulders which i kind of hate when i took these photos it was billowing and slipping off and wind was blowing it off and my hair all over my face and it was a sensory overload i hope you re inspired to diy your own ogden cami be sure to check out the rest of the makers and their makes on the indiesew spring summer collection tour line up below 8 comments share twitter facebook pinterest 06 09 2016 the namesake swimsuit s e w n it s spring it s spring out with the old in with a new hand made swimsuit and a new format to sooth our information bombarded brains instead of flipping back and forth between image and text you can look at pretty pictures and leave it s o k i get it or if you re interested in the specs or just here for the dulcet tones of my blogging voice it s all business as usual below it s no secret i m fond of swimsuits i ve been pinning them mercilessly here for years for no other reason than that i love swimwear fabric i love prints and i love what a brand new swimsuit symbolises a feeling of freedom holidays at the beach an early morning bodysurf letting hair dry salty and tangled that ferocious hunger that only an ocean swim can bring a sensory summer love fest maybe there s a repressed surf chick in here somewhere only now she s more about eco tan than real tans and simulated beach scenarios you could understand i nearly flat lined when heather from closet case files announced that 1 she was creating a bustier swimsuit pattern and 2 would i be okay with being it s namesake ummmm access to bustier swimsuits at the press of a peddle for ever let s be clear here it would be a honour to be the muse for any pattern but a bustier bikini well that really is the penultimate and sure it marries all the very best things about this sewing blogging community but it s also an uhhhhhmazing pattern one that i would recommend to you even if it were called the jessica or the savannah without further ado my sophie swimsuit experience p a t t e r n sophie swimsuit f a b r i c floral lycra stripe lycra similar here pitt trading tessuti are current hot spots for beautiful swimwear fabric s i z e bra 6 cup 4 briefs 8 p r o c e s s the pattern comes with an option of an accompanying video tutorial i love this idea being a visual learner and can t help but think how cool it would be if every pattern came with a video option having produced a small video tutorial this year and knowing the amount of time energy that goes into it this would be pretty hard to sustain but still i used the video tutorial the entire way and glanced at the printed instructions for backup in only a few sections as a bonus it was kinda like me and heather hanging out sewing a kini in my loungeroom l o v e d the fiddliness of the bra cup section having to be so meticulous and slow inserting the underwire channels top stitching the edges and threading the wire is as close to sewing zen as i ll ever get the way heather explains the process there s no room for guessing the result is 100 professional and you finish knowing you got new skillz f i t t i n g as per the instructions i chose a size 6 for the bikini top based on my under bust measurement lovely here s my advice be a good sewist now and don t play guessing games with heather s cup sizing chart ok she knows what she s talking about especially don t try and make connections between her cup sizing 1 2 3 4 and a b c d etc like i did my measurements put me between cup size 4 and 5 and i was all nah uh there s no way i m a d e cup no no no just follow the chart i cut out my size 3 cup completely out of fabric contrast moulding lining everything luckily you construct the moulding first so you can try it on in the mirror to see if it will go around a boob the size three covered like half a boob i had to go back and re cut the entire bra in the 4 even this felt like a major sizing compromise but now i think i could do with trying the size 5 cup hoping the 4 might become forgiving towards summer more salads less roasts etc the fit of the bikini bottoms is bang on having made several high waist bikinis here here i feel i am in a position to say that this is by far the most comfortable and secure assuming you like a proper high waisted bikini that is i cannot stand it when something claims to be high waisted only to sit an inch or two below the navel just no a high waist should rest on or over a navel like this one in my opinion there it serves many purposes but mainly to act like secret spanx m o d s i widened the centre front and back panels on the bottoms and reduced width of the side panels for more floral less stripe made slightly thinner bikini straps using the dimensions and process from this tutorial added boning to the side seams on bikini top i was introduced to the idea here and really liked the extra stability it provides for not too much fuss to insert d e s i g n n o t e s you know it s love or something else when you change the colour of the thread in your coverstitch zigzag to jump from the floral to the stripe section i also made three straps for the bikini top in total the one you see here which stretches from one side of the bra hook to the other plus another two separate straps out of the stripe for a neckband that ties up a girl has to have options n e x t t i m e if it wasn t perfection already heather s gone done released a bonus download for a long line version of the bikini top check out omg this one i would definitely add boning again on the side seams and possibly along the two vertical below bust seams like i notice quite a few rtw versions have how many swimsuits does one girl need guys i ve thought long and hard about this and oh look mustard floral zimmerman lycra 22 comments share twitter facebook pinterest 29 08 2016 croc culottes turtleneck s e w n i am so happy culottes are still around i love that they re re spawning too into a slightly thinner flared version i believe is getting around by the alias cropped pants i have no idea really but their lengthy fashion term means this we are spoilt for culotte sewing patterns there s so many so i ll just mention a special few there s the winslow culottes with some serious pleatage going on and some very cool versions around there s the galleria culottes sleek and classic not unlike their designer sasha there s the newly released emerson crop pant which seems to sit somewhere between a culotte and it s slender cropped cousin mentioned there s these you see here the style arc erin woven culottes plus a million more when choosing a culotte pattern it s important to know where you stand on pleats you can have no pleats a dash of pleats or shimmy right on down to pleat town these are your options and it s a personal choice but consider this pleats add volume not just in the pleat itself but that extra fabric all has to end up in the width of the pants at the base too i m partial to some detailing at the front yes but also aware it s only one hop and a pleat away from the culottes come parachute look at any time on the scale of pleats the erin culottes sit nicely around the middle literally the slanted side pockets become part of the side pleats and then there s a hidden deeper pleat in centre front the result gives some interest and detail whilst maintaining a mostly flat front the pattern makes up beautifully in a drapey woven as you can see in this white crepe version from the original pattern but then i was also moved by sallieoh s version made from fabric with obvious body after my first two forays into culottes were more novelty egg yolk and upholstery than wearable i decided to get serious and make pair that i would wear for the fabric i was imagining something subtle and textured to make a classic winter culotte to pair with cosy knitwear this cotton blend from the fabric store triggered a vague sense of out of body ness at the realisation i was about to buy something so khaki and muted however the combination of colour knobbly texture and good bottom weight made them look decidedly un hand made which i suspect is why i wear them all the time sizing wise i made my usual style arc size 8 normally vogue 12ish to give you an idea of the difference they ended up roomy enough that i had to take them in through the waist and hips the one thing i didn t love about the pattern is the curved waistband i feel like the way the fabric is sitting at the front pleats it really wants to be hanging off a straight waistband and then sit on the waist i feel like comfort wise i want things to sit high waisted or on the hips not in between however because the pattern is designed to sit at the natural waist it makes sense to have a curved waistband i suspect it s also better suited to lighter fabrics that won t drag on the waistband as in the original pattern version a good press might help too who was responsible for that the only mod i made was to add welt pockets using this tutorial it s my go to there s nothing apart from a good solid stitch in the ditch that feels as sexy as getting a welt pocket right it s legit any day now my welt pocket scout badge will turn up in the mail i can feel it like all new skills in sewing underwires invisible zippers flys welt pockets are only made intimidating by sewing folklore it s not to be trusted because they re not to be feared once you get your first you ll want to welt all the things it s natural but try your first welt not on your actual garment like burdastyle style arc instructions were once always light on the illustrations side but i ve noticed their more recent patterns include more diagrams at crucial steps which is ever so nice this may or may not be related to having some trouble with part of the instructions for the centre front here as you can see the pleats meet in the middle instead of overlapping like they re supposed to the effect is okay but if you re making these follow the instructions don t refer to mine for a visual i love this top patternnn after the birkin flares i believe it s the second staple in the history of my hand made wardrobe it filled a gap i didn t even know i had at the start of winter i was so so close to buying a turtleneck but i am ever so happy i decided to diy instead of buy the pattern is the papercut rise fall turtleneck this is the rise version in a scrumptious mid weight merino jersey with lycra from here and it s fab firstly it s a quick sew less than 2 hours from start to finish including cutting i sewed it entirely on the overlocker then coverstitched the hems which always makes for a happy sewist and lastly fit wise it s everything you could want for in a store bought turtleneck as is habit now i did some preliminary sleuthing and found that while most said they loved the pattern they wished they had sized down i sized down and the fit through the body is perfection the only mod i made was to add 1 to the sleeves next time i would add 2 to the sleeves and 1 2 to the hems but if you have regular length arms this wouldn t be necessary now i m dreaming of another version with above elbow length sleeves in a stripe there s nothing else to add it has kept me toasty warm through a mild brisbane winter and i need 100 more 12 comments share twitter facebook pinterest 27 07 2016 midi skirt mini shorts s e w n pattern named apila shorts self drafted overlay fabric stretch cotton from the fabric store silk for overlay size 38 i m not sure what s happening to time but as i get closer to thirty it feels like i m living in a vacuum i made this skirt in september last year september i stole the idea directly from this skirt which i had pinned to a summer sewing ideas board even before that it was one of those ideas that probably wouldn t have come to fruition if i didn t accidentally find the perfect fabric...
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