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ken place following this incident four men were missing while visiting the spot i was told that the bodies of the four soldiers all of nepali origin and all called chhetri were repatriated a few days later after the chinese side informed the indian post of the incident a memorial has now been built at an altitude of 17 000 ft just below the tulung la pass marking the lac to commemorate the death of the four jawans linked by tarred road the mago chuna area has only recently been linked by a proper tar road to the rest of a district which saw the brunt of the first military operations with china in october and november 1962 the villages of thingbu and mago are today easily reachable and slowly getting integrated into the country s mainstream partly due to the vibrant village program 455 such villages in arunachal pradesh only and the close collaboration of the indian army which is deeply involved mago area before visiting thingbu village in early august i read again the report of capt henry morshead of the survey of india probably the first explorer to visit the area with his colleague capt frederick bailey of the intelligence morshead wrote in 1913 wedged in between monyul tawang and the lopa country is the quaint and isolated little district of mago on our arrival there we found it difficult to get the people to supply transport as the district is seldom visited by officials and they are not accustomed to do so the british surveyor continues to describe the area the country is wooded and damp the houses are of wood and stone with pent roofs of shingles or in some cases of slate they grow no crops but keep yaks in the upper parts of the valleys the produce of these animals is exchanged with monbas and lopas daflas for cereals and madder dye mago is 11 800 feet in altitude and is under snow in winter most of the people live on the hills with their yaks in summer and return to the villages from the end of december to the end of may during which period the grazing grounds are under deep snow for decades morshead s report was the only record about these remote villages the total population is only about two hundred and is they say decreasing the people are quite illiterate they let their hair grow long and do not tie it in any way the women wear a short skirt of woollen cloth in broad red and blue longitudinal stripes under which they wear knickerbockers they wear a great deal of jewellery thingbu village the village is located some 15 km from mago at an altitude of 11 000 ft the population belongs to the monpa tribe like in tawang the census said that 58 households live in thingbu i received a grand reception when i visited thangbu all the villagers were keen to see this white skin person interested in their culture as well as what happened in 1962 during the war with china this was one of the routes used by the chinese army to bring reinforcements to dirang and bomdila during the second phase of the sino indian war november 18 20 1962 thingbu is just off the famous bailey trail the historic route taken by capts bailey and morshead who had been commissioned to survey the tibet border during 1913 after completing the survey along the great bend of the yarlung tsangpo river the two britishers returned into indian territory at tulung la pass descending to mago village then crossing over tse la to reach pota and from poshing la down to thembang before proceeding to tawang and finally to tsona dzong in tibet the first part of their journey from mago is known as the bailey trail meeting the villagers during my encounters with the villagers of thangbu a couple of elders remembered the events of 1962 they said that the chinese had not been too aggressive with the villagers at that time some villagers had gone grazing in the nearby yangtse area they came running back to inform people about the chinese attack and their imminent arrival in the village apparently the people s liberation army pla troops just wanted guides as they did not know their way towards dirang and bomdila upon hearing the news of the chinese troops arrival all the young people left the village leaving behind only older people unable to serve as guides due to their age during the discussion i learnt something interesting the chinese troops were usually sleeping during the day and marching at night in a few days several hundreds of soldiers passed on their way to tse la pass and dirang dzong after seeing the gorges around mago one wonders how they could find a track to progress through this densely afforested area or how they could cross the rapid flow of the mago chu river the chinese had very few tibetans guiding them to their destination the thingbu villagers recounted that the chinese were all smoking cigarettes and beedies after seeing the pla troops the monpas conclusion was that the pla were not good soldiers nothing compared to indian soldiers they added contrary to other sectors tawang for example the pla had no mules or horses they were carrying their own food something like tsampa barley flour and did not take any food from the villagers this reminded me of the three main rules of discipline given by mao zedong in 1947 obey orders in all your actions don t take a single needle or piece of thread from the masses turn in everything captured and the eight points for attention speak politely pay fairly for what you buy return everything you borrow pay for anything you damage don t hit or swear at people don t damage crops don t take liberties with women don t ill treat captives though these rules were not followed in other sectors the pla soldiers told the monpa villagers that they were from similar race and had not come to trouble them they just wanted to kill the indian army soldiers at the end of the discussion the older monpa said that if today chinese were to come inside india i will fight and kill them prudently adding if they are of my age if they are younger soldiers i will not be able to fight the entire village had a good laugh the girls of tawang continuing in a lighter vein i told them about the 1913 report of morshead who wrote in mago there were no officials and if we had tried to put on our act the people would not have understood what we were doing they asked if we knew tawang not yet we said but we are going there what a place they answered so many houses so many people and the chang barley beer there is no chang like the chang you get there and the girls who sing and dance for you you haven t seen girls till you go to tawang none of them had visited tawang the thingbu villagers could not stop laughing and the ladies vociferously denied that it was true here the girls are fine and chang is tasty as good as in tawang the village is quite prosperous it owns about 1 000 yaks however they greatly appreciate the vibrant village program of the central government and the role of the indian army in providing a good road a school a small dispensary and drinking water they don t need to dream of tawang as the paradise on earth anymore mago village tulung la jang village posted by claude arpi at 10 43 am no comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels chunna mago tawang thingbu wednesday september 3 2025 the tulung la killing on the way to tulung la prime minister narendra modi will visit china for the shanghai cooperation organisation sco summit to be held in tianjin n august 31 and september 1 chinese foreign ministry spokesperson guo jiakun asserted that the tianjin summit will be the largest in scale since the establishment of the sco beijing already stated that it will seek closer ties with new delhi especially after global concerns over the tariffs imposed by us president donald trump while there is no harm to meet a question remains can delhi fully trust beijing the past tends to show that it is difficult a recent visit to the remote mago sector of tawang district showed me that india should remain cautious this area has only recently been linked by a proper tar road to the rest of the district which saw the brunt of the first military operations with china in october and november 1962 the villages of thingbu and mago are now easily reachable by road and are integrating fast into the country s mainstream partly due to the vibrant village program of the central government the close collaboration between the indian army and the central and state governments has also greatly helped the tulung la pass driving further north on a track one reaches the mcmahon line marking the border between india and tibet arunachal pradesh chief minister pema khandu rightly insists that his state has a border with tibet only not china the tulung la the pass between the tsona dzong county in tibet and tawang district is located close to the gorichen peak on a watershed between the tsona chu river in tibet and the tawang chu the ridge clearly demarcates the border between the two countries during the 1914 simla convention conference the british indian foreign secretary henry mcmahon and the tibetan prime minister lonchen shatra negotiated a mutual agreeable boundary mainly based on the watershed principle mcmahon explained the boundary line follows the crest of the mountain range which runs from peak 21431 through tulung la to the north of it are people of tibetan descent to the south the inhabitants are of bhutanese and aka extraction it is unquestionably the correct boundary in fact before 1975 the boundary was never disputed though it was one of the routes used by the chinese army to bring reinforcements to bomdila during the second phase of the sino indian war november 18 20 1962 the 1975 incident in 1975 a serious and uncalled for incident took place forcing the official spokesman of the ministry of external affairs to make a statement on the october 20 1975 an indian patrol party consisting of one nco and four men while on a routine patrol along india s northern border were ambushed by a chinese party of about 40 persons the ambush was well within indian territory and in an area which has been regularly patrolled by us for many years and where no previous incident had taken place following this incident four men were missing and it was subsequently learnt through diplomatic channels that they had been killed their bodies have since been returned while visiting the spot we were told that the bodies of the four soldiers all of nepali origin and all called chhetri were repatriated a few days later after the chinese side informed the indian post of the incident the story also says that the fifth member of the patrol had gone around the corner when the killing took place and fate saved him the mea statement continues the government of india have taken a very serious view of this incident and have lodged a strong protest with the chinese government against the unprovoked and unjustified firing on the indian personnel who were on routine duties within the indian side of the border and against the deliberate killing of indian personnel performing their routine duty the question is why did china deliberately kill these assam rifles jawans in this remote undisputed area i shall answer this later a cia account it is interesting to go through a cia note on the incident the note is entitled peking restrained in denying chinese crossed indian border the us agency observes on 3 november prc foreign ministry spokesman s statement used relatively restrained language in denying charges made in a 1 november statement by the indian foreign ministry spokesman beijing obviously did not want the matter to be scrutinised further it was satisfied with the mild protest from delhi despite the fact that the incident had clearly taken place on the indian side of the boundary the cia gives its own explanation the chinese statement avoided the harsh invective against the indian government and its china policy that have characterized chinese statements on the border since the 1962 sino indian war china did not comment on the border incident until after the indian statement made it public it appears that beijing waited to see delhi s reaction the note just says indian soldiers crossed into chinese territory on 20 october despite repeated warnings from chinese civilian checkpost personnel and opened fire on the chinese side causing the latter to fire back in self defense it was obviously a lie a further untruth from beijing is that the tulung pass is located on the eastern sino indian border near bhutan which is factually incorrect and that the indian troops crossed the line of actual control of november 7 1959 there is no 1959 line moreover the cia report notes that it is a phrase used by peking in the past to refer to the so called mcmahon line which delineates the eastern part of the sino indian frontier the chinese assertion is absolutely incorrect since till date china has never exchanged maps or given its perceptions of the line of actual control lac in the eastern sector of the boundary according to the us spy agency peking s statement noted that a chinese protest on the incident had been delivered to the indian embassy in peking on 22 october that the indian embassy had agreed on the 25th to accept china s offer of the 22nd to collect the bodies of the four dead soldiers and that an indian representative at tulung had accepted the bodies and captured indian weapons and ammunition from the chinese side on the 28th and had signed a receipt this chronology might be correct the issue remains why this sudden unprovoked on indian territory the order to kill the indian soldiers probably came from a local commander in tibet who wanted to remind the indian army and government of the 1962 border conflict the incident took place on october 20 the exact day the war had started on the namkha chu river 13 years earlier any china watcher knows that there are no coincidences with china while visiting the chhetri memorial built on the site of the incident i realised that this was the objective of the pla s uncalled for shooting a strong reminder to india that beijing could strike anywhere at any time the cia reports does not make the connection between 1962 and 1975 but notes though accusing the indian side of spreading slander about the clash the chinese statement was far milder than china s last official protest over an armed border clash in 1967 at that time a series of chinese foreign ministry statements in september and october had scathingly labeled the indian aggressors denounced the reactionary indian government for its alleged hypocrisy in calling for a peaceful border settlement and normalization of relations with china and accused new delhi of working closely with the united states and the ussr to foster anti china opinion in the world it was clearly to show india that the chinese army were the masters of the himalaya and that the 1967 clash in sikkim would be avenged for the cia this current statement concluded by giving unusual emphasis to pekin...
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