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es for warning signs of princely ambition making it vital to perform merchant humility in language behavior especially clothing florentines wore long wool robes advertising florence s top industry big wool especially in lorenzo s day the lucco or florentine toga an open front open sided sleeveless mantle whose looseness was less hot in summer and supposed to invoke the roman republican toga on the lucco check out elizabeth curie s wonderful little book fashion and masculinity in renaissance florence detail from a ghirlandaio fresco showing four of the famous scholars from the circle around lorenzo in florence wearing the typical florentine garments of long red cloaks down past the knee various shades of red open down the front and at the sides over sleeved under robes they also wear the acorn shaped red felt caps common at the period especially for a scholar slightly less costly than lorenzo s chaperon fresco from a cycle in a confraternity house in florence a club whose members were men of good families and did charitable deeds in this case fiving drink to the thirsty as poor people gather with jugs which the volunteers are filling with wine the wealthier men giving out the wine wear more intensely dyed fabrics and the ones on the right and at center wear the lucco another fresco showing four younger florentine men wearing the long lucco over their light summer doublets less hot than tunics now young lorenzo s dad grandpa had made the family very powerful unofficially but everyone knew it helming the state and foreign contacts helped make that happen grandpa cosimo was close with duke francesco sforza of milan and when considering lorenzo s marriage lorenzo s dad piero de medici wears a very expensive variant on this style of garment with gold edging francsco sforza wearing a very very very expensive outfit with gold brocaded silk his parents looked to forge a tie to the city where it happens papal rome the medici were as rich as dukes and as powerful but to bring a noble princess to the city as a bride was very risky in a city that feared nobility and anyone who seemed to want it they chose carefully the orsini family weren t monarchs of a region or city state they had scattered castles and land in rome republican nobility heroes of the gone but never forgotten roman republic and often leaders of the city s resistance against unpopular or overstepping popes spqr they were also heads of the mighty guelph party one of the two great factions whose feud split the italian peninsula in what guido ruggiero aptly calls italy s 300 years war the guelphs were the papal anti imperial side mnemonic pope guelph are 1 syllable emperor ghibelline 3 florence was a passionately guelph city it had massacred its ghibellines put their heads on pikes not long after it did so to its nobles and had the guelph coat of arms guelph war flag on every civic building the orsini were the noble leaders of their party a very strategic ally had lorenzo married a sforza princess from milan there d likely have been immediate riots a guelph orsini republican noble was warily accepted machiavelli s comment when you don t feel you must marry your neighbors it means you think they re your servants in 1469 when clarice married lorenzo every worried eye was on them seeking telltale signs of princely ambition for those familiar with the pazzi conspiracy assassination attempt against lorenzo 9 years later clarice was one of the named motives which brings us to sumptuary laws were normal in renaissance europe clothing restrictions justified as preventing overspending on vanity they restricted expense gold pearls velvet enforced social status people of x rank could only wear x amount of gold y fanciness of cloth z cut of garment they also flagged identity florentine law required office holders like lorenzo to wear the lucco non florentines couldn t unless granted it as a privilege a step toward citizenship foreigners nobles were immune to these laws so were recognizable at a glance especially for their costly fashions galeazzo maria sforza duke of milan wearing a very expensive doublet with gold fleur de lis on blue lorenzo owned this portrait but would never ever have owned this outfit giulia farnese wearing what young clarice orsini would ve worn in rome a costly rose colored gown embroidered with tons of gold and pearls her hair is in a pearl studded snood like most laws regulating the body sumptuary laws focused their moralistic side more on women s bodies than men s decrying the wasteful vain expense of women s clothes and in florence among other things banning gold pearls on women s hats portrait of mary duchess of burgundy wearing a tall cone shaped hennin hat with a gold jewel on the side isabella d este wearing a large turban like hat covered with ribbons gold and pearls this is when she is marquess of mantua married to francesco gonzaga so naturally florentine women stopped wearing hats to put the gold pearls directly in their hair which much of is why renaissance paintings of women look so beautiful to us the only renaissance portraits who don t have cone hats or look like their heads are jammed in a monopoly hotel botticelli portrait made for the medici family with an elaborate hairstyle woven through with pearls filippo lippi madonna with her hair covered with a light veil and strands of pearls this is one of the earliest paintings we look at and think she looks beautiful in part because she finally doesn t have a hat or totally covering veil portrait of catherine of aragon daughter of ferdinand isabella of spain and wife of henry viii with a hat that looks like her head was jammed inside a monopoly hotel then covered with gold now you see it this is a banned hat clarice s florentine neighbors could not wear it but she noble she was immune she could wear it but it would signal princeliness sparking outrage as she strode beside her husband who still dressed like merchant scum clarice orsini s hennin hat again covered with highly illegal gold and pearls her husband lorenzo dressed as merchant scum in a red chaperon and black lucco over a red tunic did she wear this hat likely not in public the two other portraits of clarice are in frescoes of medici friends and associates portraits in public places churches where clarice carefully wears fashionable expensive but merchant class apparel including a modest white veil fresco detail showing two of whom the left is clarice orsini her head is covered by a translucent veil looking very modest and almost like the poor women in the image of the men doing charity except for the detail of gold edging on her gown similar fresco in which clarice on the right is dressed much the same in pink over pale lavender with her hair covered with a plain white veil her illegal hat portrait is posthumous commissioned by widower lorenzo to remember his late wife it hung inside palazzo medici in private view this was lorenzo s choice his memento clarice looking as royal un florentine as her orsini kin why clarice in her hennin again portrait by botticelli thought to possibly be a medici woman perhaps clarice s daughter maddalena dressed as she should in florence in a very modest brown gown with a simple veil did clarice own this hat had she worn it in rome secretly at home on trips had she hated the commoner clothes her marriage forced on her she certainly grew up dressing like the princess she was so much high stakes politics personal mystery behind one not so simple hat i hope you enjoyed joining me in my fascination with the complex meaning of lorenzo s choice to remember clarice and encourage their kids to remember their mom wearing her extremely illegal hat for more tales like this of clarice lorenzo their kids etc inventing the renaissance coming soon share gonzaga vs sanseverino i fart in your general direction posted by assistant on february 5 2025 history inventing the renaissance 1 buckle up friends it s time for the real life i fart in your general direction marquis francesco gonzaga s unforgettable reply to the 1503 duel challenge from galeazzo sanseverino part of my countdown to inventing the renaissance i posted last time introducing galeazzo sanseverino son of fortune the famously handsome mercenary captain and lover of duke ludovico visconti sforza who held such sway in his beloved s city that the milanese called him the second duke everyone doted on galeazzo even the french generals he fought wars against and also the nearly impossible to please isabella d este sister of the duke of ferrara the famous art lover patroness of leonardo da vinci and the most easily affronted woman in the renaissance titian s portrait of isabella d este isabella frowns disapprovingly at the viewer the only people who did not love the dashing and fortunate galeazzo were rival mercenary commanders who lost out on valuable commissions leading milan s armies as ludovico started promoting his beloved over all others detail portrait of ludovico sforza from the pala sforzesca portrait possibly of galeazzo sanseverino trusting one s lover with one s armies was not a bad tactic since your true love will not change sides for cash mid war like mercenaries so often did for a sample of strategic side changing see william caferro s fabulous book on john hawkwood one rival who lost out through galeazzo s promotion was francesco gonzaga marquess of mantua a formidable military commander and ruler of a very militarily important city state strategically positioned in the intersection of milan s territory venice s and ferrara s portrait of francesco gonzaga francesco gonzaga came from extremely noble stock his mother and grandmother were kinswomen of the holy roman emperors his sister elizabetta the duke of urbino and he himself married the splendid isabella d este sister of galeazzo s lover ludovico s wife beatrice who also loved galeazzo painting of isabella and beatrice d este together as girls from a fresco in the family palace when tensions mounted until galeazzo challenged francesco gonzaga to a duel by letter francesco began his unforgettable reply with prù this is a fart sound i make with my mouth with the addition of a fuck you gesture manichetto and a fig sign photograph of a stone statue probably depicting galeazzo sanseverino as the model for saint victor the martyr statue in milan cathedral museum he has his arms bound behind him much like images of saint sebastian but more military a pose with strong homoerotic associations in the period as now print portrait of francesco gonzaga his coat of arms with imperial eagle imagery appears in the top left corner gonzaga the letter continues was lord of the great city of mantua galeazzo a born vagabond who lived like dogs do at the expense of others a prostitute famous only for his ass favors adding i have my parties at the door of others not at mine i e when i have gay sex i m on the top you re on the bottom such ferocious sexual language was not unusual from gonzaga a man who often sealed his letters not with a signet ring with his coat of arms but an image from an ancient roman token depicting a couple having anal sex we aren t 100 sure how these tokens were used in antiquity but many thousands exist depicting different sex acts one theory is that they were tokens used at brothels one bought them at the central cashier and redeemed inside like ordering off a menu with tokens with a photo of the food and gonzaga was a collector of antiquities especially crude antiquities ancient rome left us thousands of phalluses phallus shaped lamps ceramic good luck phalluses displayed by the doors of shops to bring abundance the many phalluses broken off of ancient statues by accidents or deliberate art censorship and gonazaga was one of many collectors four ancient roman clay oil lamps in the shape of satyrs with enormous penises from the secret cabinet of the archaeological museum in naples which collects a huge number of the kinds of sexually explicit antiquities that fascinated gonzaga and his contemporaries from the same museum collection an ancient roman bronze flying phallus with additional phalluses coming off of it with bells hanging from it designed to hang like a wind chime or a bell on a store s front door for those wondering gonzaga did not use the anal sex image to seal letters to his wife isabella d este he had a more formal seal for such letters there are fascinating collections of their letters showing their negotiated co rule of mantua and almost good cop bad cop balancing of performance of power gonzaga also had a love affair with his sister in law lucrezia borgia wife of isabella s brother duke alfonso d este of ferrara lucrezia s more famous affair was with the poet scholar pietro bembo whose exchange poetic romantic letters byron called the prettiest love letters in the world the lucrezia gonzaga letters are not like that and much more along the lines of let me describe my enormous penis i love when you describe your enormous penis their contrast with the lucrezia bembo letters reveal lucrezia as who enjoyed many different genres of love relationship francesco gonzaga s refusal to duel galeazzo sanseverino though hilariously dramatic was also strategic magnifying the differences between the two of them in order to avoid risking losing face if he lost the duel against galeazzo given that this is 1503 many are surprised to see gay sex be so overt both in gonzaga s letter and galezzo s relationship with duke ludovico a gay relationship fully public in the face of all italy didn t the inquisition police such things with an iron fist yes and no the answer is that renaissance justice was extremely malleable if one had political influence meaning in the period patronage if you were powerful duke marquis cardinal you and those in your favor could get away with anything and not just local enforcement but even the inquisition didn t dare interfere there s a letter from a friend in rome to machiavelli saying rome is cracking down on homosexuality and all their gay friends who don t work for cardinals are scared doing things like hiring female prostitutes to hang around make them look straight those who work for cardinals are safe elite favor created bubbles of liberty beyond the law we even have letters of inquisitors complaining to each other about dukes insisting their courtiers and favorite scholars be allowed to have and read banned books and that they can do nothing the inquisition needed local authorities to cooperate with them lend them troops jail cells etc and the popes were from political families and needed allies and would rather let the duke of milan parade his boyfriend around than piss him off in the middle of a french invasion map of central and northern italy circa 1450 showing the papal states surrounded by a complex colorful array of other powers clearly a messy political situation this applied high low in florence a carpenter who works for a middlingly important family...
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