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e territories under the control of baghdad and basra and lasted until 961 ce the rashidun caliphate conquered mesopotamia by 640 ce and later the whole of the sasanian empire by 643 ce and kept control until their collapse in 661 ce prior to their collapse civil war had taken over the caliphate after which the muawiyah faction won and thus established the umayyad caliphate the umayyads controlled the area until their own collapse in 750 ad after which the abbasid caliphate took over and reigned for around two hundred years until 945 ce after conquering western iran in 945 ce the buyid dynasty ruled over this area until 1055 kurdish reign edit for 270 years between 1155 and 1424 the kurds reigned in the zagros mountains especially areas around lorestan hazaraspids who are also known as lorestan atabegs were composed of two groups the little lor who were mostly of lor descent and big lor atabegs who were of kurdish descent the former controlled parts of the present day provinces of markazi hamedan kermanshah lorestan khuzestan and ilam 18 from 961 to 1015 the ḥasanwayhid dynasty ruled over western iran under the influence of the buyid dynasty centred at dinawar near present day kermanshah hasanwayhids kurdish muslims with ties to the kurdish barzikani tribe controlled central areas of the zagros mountains at its greatest extent the dynasty included the modern day areas around khorramabad borujerd nahavand asadabad borujerd ahwaz ilam kermanshah hulwan and kirkuk the ḥasanwayhid dynasty was overthrown by the annazids who with help of the buyid dynasty controlled the area until their collapse in 1116 ce 19 khorshidi dynasty edit little and big lorestan vali castle in ilam the capital of little lor was shapourkhwast or the modern day khorramabad especially the falak ol aflak castle the little lor atabegs or the khorshidi dynasty ruled over the area for over 412 years from 1184 to 1597 ce after which shah abbas the great executed the last ruler shahverdi khan and replaced shahverdi s nephew hossein beyg khan thus ending the rule of little lor and beginning of the vali wali dynasty also known as feyli vali 20 qajar era 1789 1925 edit during the qajar era lorestan was divided into two regions poshtkoh present day ilam province with the center of ilam city and pishkouh present day lorestan with the center of khorramabad poshtkhouh literally means back of mountain and it was due to the fact that ilam was situated at the westernmost parts of the zagros mountains and to the rest of the country it was plainly considered at the back of mountains 21 from that point on ilam was ruled independently from lorestan and the governor reported directly to the central government thereby ending lorestan control of ilam and poshtkouh the two districts were later renamed deh e bala and deh e pa een meaning the upper and lower villages respectively 21 22 during the rule of hossein qoli khan over deh e bala 1863 1900 ce it was renamed to hossein abad poshtkuh the vali castle of ilam was built by the next vali gholamreza khan feyli in 1908 the castle is now a nationally registered heritage and also the ilam museum of anthropology 20th century edit following the establishment of the pahlavi dynasty in 1925 reza shah suppressed the local governments to consolidate his dominance in 1928 the government forces took over poshtkouh and gholamreza khan feyli the last feyli governor left poshtkouh for iraq without any resistance thus abolishing the rule of the feylis in ilam after 332 years 22 a year later in 1929 hossein abad was renamed to ilam by the suggestion of academy of persian language and literature 23 on 7 november 1937 the parliament passed a law on the political division of the country under the title of act of division of the country and the duties of the governors thereby dividing the country into 6 provinces and 50 counties 24 poshtkouh being a county was part of the west province the 1937 political division law did not last long and on 9 january 1938 an amendment was passed which divided the country into 10 province and 49 counties based on the new division ilam was a county of the fifth province in 1964 darreh shahr abdanan and dehloran from lorestan province and mousian from khuzestan were annexed to ilam thus upping its status to general governorate as part of the kermanshah province 23 ilam subsequently became a province in march 1974 after the 1979 iranian revolution ilam was one of the main battlegrounds of the iran iraq war for years the war began with the iraqi invasion into western and southwestern iran on 22 september 1980 as a border province ilam was a constant target for the iraqi bombing campaign and suffered heavily in terms of economic infrastructure the war left ilam province devastated for years making it one of the least developed provinces in iran geography edit topographic map of ilam province indicating mountains and rivers ilam province with an area of 20 150 km 2 7 780 mi 2 is the 22nd largest province in iran it is located in the southwest of the country in central zagros and is bordered by iraq to the west khuzestan province to the south lorestan province to the east and kermanshah province to the north ilam province is situated at the southwestern edge of the zagros mountains and right at the transition between the arabian and the iranian plateaus because of this it is divided into two distinct natural areas the northern and eastern parts are mountainous whereas the southwest is covered with low plains that extend to the iraqi and khuzestan borders the mountains in the north and east are mostly parallel running in the northwest southeast direction these mountains are separated by plains and rolling hills that are mostly used to grow crops and orchards by settlers the most prominent mountain in ilam province is kabir kouh which is located in the eastern part of the province stretching 160 km from near pol e zal in the southeast to mishkhas village near ilam city in the northwest the highest point in the province kan seifi peak with 2 775 m 9 104 ft above sea level is part of kabir kouh range 25 26 27 other major mountains include manesht and qolarang near ilam sharah zoul and bankoul in eywan qalajeh and ahuran in chardavol dinar kouh in abdanan anaran and siah kouh in central dehloran laneh and charmin near lumar chaman ghir and sivan near mishkhas 28 list of highest summits in ilam province peak elevation m elevation ft kan seifi 2775 9104 manesht 2629 8625 chaman ghir 2578 8458 qolarangh 2473 8114 ghachan 2464 8084 bankoul 2304 7559 melinjeh 2193 7195 shalam 2174 7133 sameleh 2150 7054 manesht mountain contrary to the north the south and southwestern part of the province is covered with low lying plains with elevation varying between 50 and 300 m 160 and 980 ft above sea level despite receiving little precipitation large areas of these low lands notably dehloran musian and dasht abbas are cultivated owing to a combination of factors such as rivers flowing from the mountains to the east dams and irrigation networks the ghamasiab river after running through kermanshah province flows toward ilam upon arriving at the point where the borders of ilam lorestan and kermanshah provinces meet it is named seymareh it then flows west and southward and somewhere near kal sefid village darreh shahr is joined by the kashkan river and together they create the karkheh river the third longest river in iran with a length of around 755 km seymareh and karkheh constitute the ilam s eastern border with lorestan province siah ghav twin lakes near abdanan because of the terrain the permanent and seasonal rivers and stream that originate from ilam highlands either fall into seymareh such as chardavol garab seekan darreh shahr and majeen rivers or flow westward toward the low lands and into iraq and khuzestan such as ghanghir ghodar khosh kanjan cham roud ghavi changouleh meymeh murmuri doiraj and siah ghav rivers 29 apart from some few springs here and there such as siah ghav twin lakes near abdanan there are no major natural bodies of water in the province there are however four dam that provide important drinking water these include ilam seymareh eywan and doiraj dams 30 biodiversity edit persian turpentine tree persian oak forest in ilam province flora edit with about 31 of its territory covered with scattered to dense forests of mostly persian oak ilam ranks 3rd in the country after kohgiluyeh and lorestan provinces excluding the northern provinces of mazandarn and gilan 31 32 the highlands and the forests of the province are the habitat of many animals including the asian black bear caracal caucasian squirrel eastern imperial eagle golden eagle black kite black stork blunt nosed viper and the endangered persian leopard 33 ilam is home to the endangered spider tailed horned viper a unique species only found in ilam province in the world 34 more than 6 400 km 2 2 500 mi 2 of the province around 31 of its territory is covered with scattered to dense forests this is about one third of the total forests in the zagros mountains the predominant species of these forests are persian oak though other trees such as wild almond hawthorn persian turpentine montpellier maple and judas can be found the arghavan canyon near ilam is known for the pink blooms of the judas trees which flower in spring fauna edit spider tailed horned viper due to its geographical location natural conditions and the diversity of its habitats ilam province is home to 32 mammals and 183 birds the mountainous areas specifically host mammals such as wild goat asiatic mouflon argali goitered gazelle the endangered persian leopard and asiatic cheetah as well as caracal eurasian lynx asian black bear brown bear wolf golden jackal red fox and wild boar smaller species such as caucasian squirrel rabbits long eared hedgehog european hedgehog indian crested porcupine and weasels 35 ilam province is only area in the world in which the spider tailed horned viper can be found nature conservatories edit kabir kouh protected area near darreh shahr about 13 of the total territory of ilam province is under the protection and monitoring of local and national natural reserves organizations there are four protected areas which in total cover 1 377 km 2 532 mi 2 list of protected areas in ilam province 36 37 name designation closest community area kabir kouh protected area darreh shahr 179 km 2 69 mi 2 dinar kouh protected area abdanan 406 km 2 157 mi 2 manesht and qolarangh protected area ilam 292 km 2 113 mi 2 koulak protected area mehran 500 km 2 190 mi 2 arghavan valley near ilam in addition to the protected areas mentioned above there are tang e bina and bijar hunting prohibited area around 500 km 2 190 mi 2 in area near chavar arghavan valley forest reserve near ilam city known for its pink spring blossoms of judas tree and largh forest reserve known for its pterocarya fraxinifolia trees these trees are usually found in the rain forests of northern iran but surprisingly grow in this small patch of land in lart valley near badreh and two nationally registered natural heritage sites 36 razyaneh canyon a deep and narrow canyon carved by streams in the rock beds near chenar bashi 10 to 30 m 33 to 98 ft deep 2 to 10 m 6 6 to 32 8 ft in width 1 5 km 0 93 mi long and dehloran an 1 400 ha 3 500 acres area near dehloran that includes hot water and bitumen springs as well as bat caves landslides edit seymareh landslide in darreh shahr county view from pol e dokhtar in lorestan to the landslide scarp on the kabir kouh range below is the landslide mass that crossed the river seymareh which now represents the border between ilam and lorestan one of the largest landslides in the eastern hemisphere and world is believed to have occurred in ilam province more specifically in the kabir kuh anticline at gorz e langar in darreh shahr county according to harrison and falcon in their article on royal geographical society published in 1937 the seymareh landslide moved as much as 30 km 3 7 2 mi 3 of rock as far as 14 km 8 7 mi it is suspected that an earthquake could have triggered such a large landslide 38 39 40 climate edit köppen climate types of ilam province due to the influence of various factors such as altitude proximity to the arabian desert the plains of khuzestan and iraq the climate of the province is very diverse different atmospheric systems affect the province causing fall winter spring and occasionally summer precipitation the mediterranean and black sea air masses from the west trigger autumn and winter rains in the province 41 the red sea and saudi desert currents too bring winter and spring rains the very same currents and the vast iraqi plain to the west are the main causes of hot weather in summers on the other hand the northern air masses entering the country in winter from siberia lower the temperatures and cause freezing in northern parts of the province ilam province is considered as one of the tropical regions of the country but due to difference in altitudes temperature and precipitation three different types of climate can be observed 29 41 mountainous areas of the north and northeast which have cold climate and long winters the minimum temperature in winter reaches 15 to 20 c 5 to 4 f and the amount of precipitation exceeds 600 mm 24 in per year the plains of the west and southwest of the province have dry hot climate the maximum temperature in these areas can exceed 52 c 126 f the rainfall in these areas is about 200 mm 7 9 in per year other areas have temperature to warm climate with hot summers and mild winters temperatures can go as low as 15 c 5 f in higher altitudes and in summers it can go above 45 c 113 f in lower altitudes annual precipitation in these areas varies between 200 mm 7 9 in and 450 mm 18 in climate averages for towns in ilam province 3 town july daily maximum january daily maximum annual precipitation ilam 38 2 c 100 8 f 10 5 c 50 9 f 585 4 mm 23 05 in mehran 45 6 c 114 1 f 16 3 c 61 3 f 230 4 mm 9 07 in dehloran 48 1 c 118 6 f 16 5 c 61 7 f 280 4 mm 11 04 in darreh shahr 46 4 c 115 5 f 15 c 59 f 482 1 mm 18 98 in eyvan 38 8 c 101 8 f 11 c 52 f 704 1 mm 27 72 in sarableh 41 4 c 106 5 f 11 2 c 52 2 f 510 7 mm 20 11 in abdanan 42 5 c 108 5 f 12 9 c 55 2 f 613 7 mm 24 16 in lumar 45 2 c 113 4 f 13 2 c 55 8 f 460 3 mm 18 12 in floods edit flood of nov 2015 city of ilam flood of 31 mar 2019 at majeen darreh shahr occasional heavy rainstorms in spring and autumn bring sometimes huge floods the steep slopes of zagros mountains soil type lack of vegetation are among some of the reasons why ilam province is prone to flooding moreover majority of communities in ilam province are located in the floodplains at the foothills of mountains on river banks and near sources of water so there is always risk of flooding with potential human and financial costs according to the available statistics mehran and dehloran counties are at the highest risk of flooding due to ...
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