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site title: OEcotextiles Indulgent yet responsible fabrics

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stig a professor of clinical pediatrics at the university of california san francisco e ven those at the lower end of the bmi body mass index curve are gaining weight whatever is happening is happening to everyone suggesting an environmental trigger the idea that chemicals in the environment could be contributing to the obesity epidemic is often credited to an article by paula baillie hamilton published in the journal of alternative and complementary medicine in 2002 4 her article presented evidence from earlier toxicologic studies published as far back as the 1970s in which low dose chemical exposures were associated with weight gain in experimental animals at the time however the original researchers did not focus on the implications of the observed weight gains the role of environmental chemicals in obesity has garnered increased attention in academic and policy spheres and was recently acknowledged by the presidential task force on childhood obesity and the national institutesof health nih strategic plan for obesity research over the past ten years and especially the past five years there s been a flurry of new data says kristina thayer director of the office of health assessment and translation at the national toxicology program ntp there are many studies in both humans and animals the ntp found real biological plausibility in 2011 the nih launched a 3 year effort to fund research exploring the role of environmental chemical exposures in obesity type 2 diabetes mellitus and metabolic syndrome 5 the main role of fat cells is to store energy and release it when needed scientists also now know that fat tissue acts as an endocrine organ releasing hormones related to appetite and metabolism research to date suggests different obesogenic compounds may have different mechanisms of action some affecting the number of fat cells others the size of fat cells and still others the hormones that affect appetite satiety food preferences and energy metabolism some obesogenic effects may pass on to later generations through epigenetic changes heritable modifications to dna and histone proteins that affect when and how genes are expressed in cells without altering the actual genetic code bruce blumberg a biology professor at the university of california irvine coined the term obesogen in 2006 when he discovered that tin based compounds known as organotins predisposed laboratory mice to gain weight 6 if you give tributyltin tbt to pregnant mice their offspring are heavier than those not exposed he says we ve altered the physiology of these offspring so even if they eat normal food they get slightly fatter 7 human exposure and health effect data are relatively rare for organotins but studies have documented the presence of these compounds in human blood milk and liver samples although phased out as a biocide and marine antifouling agent tbt is still used as a wood preservative and along with dibutyltin as a stabilizer in polyvinyl chloride it pollutes many waterways and contaminates seafood animal studies have also implicated another suspected obesogen bisphenol a bpa which is found in medical devices in the lining of some canned foods and in cash register receipts as well as in polyester fabrics 8 bpa reduces the number of fat cells but programs them to incorporate more fat so there are fewer but very large fat cells explains university of missouri biology professor frederick vom saal who has studied bpa for the past 15 years in animals bpa exposure is producing in animals the kind of outcomes that we see in humans born light at birth an increase in abdominal fat and glucose intolerance 9 still another widespread obesogen is perfluorooctanoic acid pfoa a potential endocrine disruptor pretty much everyone in the u s has it in their blood kids having higher levels than adults probably because of their habits they crawl on carpets on furniture and put things in their mouth more often explains niehs biologist suzanne fenton pfoa is a surfactant used for reduction of friction and it is also used in nonstick cookware i e teflon gore tex waterproof clothing scotchgard stain repellent on carpeting mattresses and microwavable food items in 2005 dupont settled a class action lawsuit for 107 6 million after its factory was found to have tainted parkersburg wv drinking water supplies with pfoa 10 another obesogen is phthalates phthalates are chemicals used to make plastics soft and flexible they are found in various products including food containers toys beauty products pharmaceuticals shower curtains and paint they are in the vast majority of textile printing inks these chemicals can easily leach out of plastics and contaminate foods the water supply and even the very air we breathe a swedish study found that children can absorb airborne phthalates from plastic floor material through the skin and respiratory tract in a study by the cdc most americans tested positive for phthalate metabolites in their urine 11 like bpa phthalates are endocrine disruptors affecting the hormonal balance in your body phthalates may be contributing to increased susceptibility to weight gain by affecting hormone receptors called ppars which are involved in metabolism studies in humans have shown that phthalate levels in the body are associated with obesity increased waist circumference and insulin resistance t appears that men are particularly susceptible studies show that phthalate exposure in the womb leads to genital malformations undescended testicles and low testosterone levels many of these obesogens pesticides bpa pfoas phthalates tbti pcbs are used regularly in textile production and they remain residual in the fabrics phthalates were found in all the garments tested by greenpeace greenpeace bought a range of clothing from 19 countries around the world from 1 4 mg kg to 200 000 mg kg or more than 20 of the weight of the sample 12 another good reason to seek out minimally oeko tex 100 fabric or better gots certified fabric 1 janesick as blumberg b obesogens an emerging threat to public health am j obstet gynecol 2016 may 214 5 559 65 doi 10 1016 j ajog 2016 01 182 epub 2016 jan 29 2 ogden cl et al prevalence of obesity and trends in body mass index among us children and adolescents 1999 2010 jama http dx doi org 10 1001 jama 2012 40 online 17 jan 2012 3 klimentidis yc et al canaries in the coal mine a cross species analysis of the plurality of obesity epidemics proc r soc biol sci 2011 278 1712 1626 1632 http dx doi org 10 1098 rspb 2010 1890 4 baillie hamilton pf chemical toxins a hypotheses to explain the global obesity epidemic j althern complement med 2002 8 2 185 192 http dx doi org 10 1089 107555302317371479 5 national institutes of health national institute of environmental health sciences obesogens https www niehs nih gov health topics conditions obesity obesogens index cfm 6 blumberg b grun f environmental obesogens organotins and endocrine disruption vis nuclear receptor signaling endocrinol 2006 147 6 s50 s55 http dx doi org 10 1210 en 2005 1129 7 ibid 8 somm e et al perinatal bisphenol a alters adipogenesis in the rat environ health perspect 2009 117 10 1549 1555 http dx doi org 10 1289 ehp 11342 9 philpott t can bpa make you fat mother jones may 2012 10 dupont reaches settlement with class action group press release wilmington dc and parkersburg wv dupont 2 sept 2004 http www2 dupont com media_center en_us news_releases 2004 nr09_09_04 html 11 b c blount et al levels of seven urinary phthalate metabolites in a human reference population environ health perspect 2000 oct 108 10 978 982 12 pedersen h hartmann j toxic textiles by disney greenpeace brussels april 2004 categories bisphenol a endocrine disruptors fire retardants pesticides phthalates uncategorized tags journal of alternative and complementary medicine robert h lustig fabricsellera o ecotextiles and two sisters ecotextiles 2 comments november 27 2018 a company that sells fabric on line has a post about why they don t offer oeko tex certification their post is woefully incorrect we do not name the company but call it fabricsellera their post titled why oeko tex certification is not relevant to american made fabrics the entirety of which you can read below at the end of this post claims that in america for american made fabrics oeko tex is irrelevant because the us government primarily in the form of the consumer product safety commission cpsc the occupational health and safety administration osha and the environmental protection agency epa ensures that products made in the usa have met the most stringent comprehensive american health and safety standards which makes them even more rigorous than the oeko tex test criteria this is why oeko tex certification is not required in the united states these strict measures guarantee the highest levels of safety not only for the consumers who use the fabrics but also for the health and safety of those who make them and environmental protection in addition to our ongoing mission and commitment to bringing you safe high quality products for your use our fabrics are of course cpsia compliant they meet the highest standards of health and safety in the world fabricsellera is most thoroughly incorrect we find that many people really want to believe that america s product safety and toxicity standards are the most stringent in the world this is very very far from the truth our protections from exposure to toxic chemicals is completely inadequate first we will give you a visual of just a few of the thousands of chemicals regularly used in textile production with unsavory to scary toxicity profiles and how the us government and the oeko tex standard compare in protecting us then we will recount in detail how the cpsc osha and the epa fail to protect us as well as oeko tex does it is not even close first the visual chemical or chemical class does oeko tex limit or prohibit does the us government limit or prohibit all flame retardants yes prohibited no carcinogenic and allergy inducing dyes yes no chlorinated phenols yes no chloro organic benzenes and toluenes yes no heavy metals lead yes yes but limit is 100 times weaker than oeko tex heavy metals antimony yes no heavy metals cadmium yes no heavy metals arsenic yes no organotin compounds tbt and dbt yes no formaldehyde yes no pthalates like bpa yes the entire class of many chemicals no not in fabric it does regulate 5 chemicals in this huge class but not in fabric only in toys and child care products like teething rings there are lots more chemicals limited by oeko tex which are not regulated by the us government we ve tried to count but many of the limits apply to whole classes of chemicals so we would be under reporting but our count ignoring classes which would greatly increase the number is 300 the grand total of chemicals prohibited or limited by the cpsc is two lead and eight forms of phthalates which by our count methodology would count as one but for a closer examination about why we may want to insist on oeko tex or better yet gots the global organic textile standard certification because of the government failing at this job let s start with a look at the cpsc the consumer product safety commission cpsc is the agency that regulates the sale and manufacture of consumer products and ultimately certifies a fabric as compliant and approved for sale in the united states in accordance with the consumer product safety improvement act cpsia before 2014 cpsc regulated only one chemical of the extremely long list of unsavory and toxic chemicals used in the process of fabric production which can and often do remain in fabric lead in 2014 congress passed the consumer product safety improvement act which banned three chemicals in the class of phthalates dehp dbp and bbp and suggest an expert panel study the banning of two others in 2017 the panel did ban five others concluding the ten year effort to ban a small subset of phthalates other very toxic phthalates including bpa and the chemical cousins used as substitutes for bpa are not banned by the feds eleven states have bans for baby bottles and similar products children s clothing cannot contain more than 100 parts per million oeko tex restricts lead to 1 part per million and oeko tex restricts lead from all fabrics not just in children s clothing the cpsc does regulate eight phthalates in children s toys and child care items like teething rings but not in fabric in children s clothes children s toys and care items cannot contain concentrations of more than 0 1 of diisononyl phthalate dinp diisobutyl phthalate dibp dinpentyl phthalate dpenp dinhexyl phthalate dhexp or dicyclohexyl phthalate dchp these kinds of chemicals are usually used to soften plastic and make it more pliable exposure to these chemicals by children has been linked with health problems like hormone disruption and damage to reproductive development among other serious issues the cpsia s permanent prohibition concerning dehp dbp and bbp remains in effect thus effective april 25 2018 any children s toy or child care article that contains concentrations of more than 0 1 percent of the following phthalates is prohibited di 2 ethylhexyl phthalate dehp dibutyl phthalate dbp benzyl butyl phthalate bbp diisononyl phthalate dinp diisobutyl phthalate dibp di n pentyl phthalate dpenp di n hexyl phthalate dhexp and dicyclohexyl phthalate dchp greenpeace has done work that points out the very large concentrations of phthalates in many popular disney children s clothes you can read leigh s blog on this issue at https oecotextiles wordpress com s toxic textiles the manufacturers may need to limit the few pthalates above but phthalates are a very large class of chemicals and chemical cousins which are unsavory and can be used interchangeably in their place now on to osha the occupational health and safety administration osha is a part of the us department of labor osha is concerned with worker safety not product safety osha actually requires that any polyester or nylon fabric or any natural fiber fabric have a flame retardant treatment so as not to cause a burn on an employee s skin to claim that applying a flame retardant finish adheres to the highest safety standards for consumers or workers is woefully incorrect the fr chemical profiles are so unsavory that you would never choose to bring them into your home we have written about fr chemicals at length in our blog but allow us to remind you briefly to make an intrinsically flame retardant synthetic fiber fabric the most common method is to add brominated flame retardants bfr s to the polymer during the melt phase bfr s are a huge chemical class brominated flame retardants are persistent accumulate in the food chain and toxic to both humans and the environment and are suspected of causing neurobehavioral effects endocrine disruption cancer and other degenerative diseases i d like to nominate flame retardant chemicals used 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