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gwaay yaay linag̱waay lit south people island half or gwaay haanas islands of beauty in the south along with approximately 400 smaller islands 4 better source needed with a total landmass of 10 180 km 2 3 931 sq mi other major islands include anthony island sg̱ang gwaay burnaby island sg̱aay kun gwaay yaay langara island kiis gwaay lyell island athlii gwaii louise island ḵ uuna gwaay alder island and kunghit island g̱angx̱id gwaay 3 on june 3 2010 the haida gwaii reconciliation act formally renamed the archipelago to haida gwaii as part of the kunst aa guu kunst aayah reconciliation protocol 5 between british columbia and the haida people 2 6 7 the previous official name was given to the archipelago by british explorer george dixon in 1787 after queen charlotte of mecklenburg strelitz and the islands are known colloquially as the charlottes 8 the islands upon which people have lived for 13 000 years 9 form the heartland of the haida nation members of the haida nation currently make up approximately half of the islands population 10 the council of the haida nation chn x̱aaydag̱a waadlux̱an naay was established in 1974 to strive for full independence sovereignty and self sufficiency of the haida nation 11 as recently as 2015 the haida nation hosted first nations delegations such as the potlatch and subsequent treaty signing between the haida and heiltsuk nation 12 a small number of kaigani haida also live on the traditionally tlingit prince of wales island in alaska in a deal negotiated between the government and the haida nation over the preceding decades british columbia in 2024 transferred the title over more than 200 islands off canada s west coast to the haida people recognizing the nation s aboriginal land title throughout haida gwaii 13 14 some of the islands are protected under federal legislation as the gwaii haanas national park reserve and haida heritage site which includes the southernmost part of moresby island and several adjoining islands and islets coastal temperate rain forest at the shore the preserve also includes the san cristoval mountains so named by the first european explorer juan josé pérez hernández and the oldest surviving european place name on the bc coast facilities are minimal and access is via boat or seaplane 15 also protected but under provincial jurisdiction are several provincial parks the largest of which is naikoon provincial park on northeastern graham island the islands are home to an abundance of wildlife including many endemic subspecies transportation edit there is no public transportation on haida gwaii taxis and car rentals are available and shuttles can be arranged 16 the primary transportation links between the islands and mainland british columbia are through the sandspit airport the masset airport and the bc ferries terminal at skidegate the westernmost leg of highway 16 a section of the greater yellowhead highway connects masset and skidegate on graham island 4 and skidegate with prince rupert on the mainland via regular bc ferries service by the mv northern adventure reservations are strongly recommended for the ferry 16 there is also regular bc ferries service between skidegate and alliford bay on moresby island floatplane services connect to facilities such as the alliford bay water aerodrome and masset water aerodrome there are 120 km 75 mi of highway on graham island on moresby only 20 km 12 mi of paved road line the coast 17 economy edit the economy is mixed including art and natural resources primarily logging and commercial fishing furthermore service industries and government jobs provide about one third of the jobs and tourism has become a more prominent part of the economy in recent years especially for fishing and tour guides cycling camping and adventure tourism indigenous culture tourism has been enhanced with the establishment of the haida heritage centre at kaay ilnygaay education edit public education is provided through school district 50 haida gwaii which operates elementary and secondary schools in masset port clements daajing giids sandspit and skidegate the old masset village council operates chief matthews school a k 4 through grade 5 and grade 6 as of the 2023 24 school year school 18 higher education programs are offered at the haida heritage centre in partnership with the university of northern british columbia and with the haida gwaii higher education society 19 health care edit publicly funded health services are provided by northern health the regional health authority responsible for the northern half of the province haida gwaii is served by two hospitals the northern haida gwaii hospital and health centre opened in 2008 and serves the northern communities of masset old massett port clements and tow hill 20 21 the haida gwaii hospital and health centre haida xaayda gwaay ngaaysdll naay which first opened to patients in november 2016 is located in daajing giids and serves patients in the southern communities of daajing giids skidegate sandspit and tlell 22 23 haida gwaii has four british columbia ambulance stations they are staffed by approximately 36 casual emergency medical responders emr and one part time community paramedic based in masset population edit at the time of european contact in 1774 the population was roughly 30 000 people residing in several towns and including slave populations drawn from other clans of haida as well as from other nations 24 it is estimated that ninety percent of the population died during the 1800s from smallpox alone other diseases arrived as well including typhoid measles and syphilis affecting many more inhabitants 25 26 the 1862 pacific northwest smallpox epidemic alone killed over 70 of the haida people by 1915 only 600 people remained 24 towns were abandoned as people left their homes for the towns of skidegate and masset for cannery towns on the mainland or for vancouver island today around 4 500 people live on the islands 27 about 70 of the indigenous people haida live in two communities at skidegate and old massett with a population of about 700 each in total the haida make up 45 of the population of the islands anthony island and the ninstints haida village site were made a unesco world heritage site in 2006 in the decision the decline in population wrought by disease was referenced when citing the vanished civilization of the haida 28 history edit houses and totem poles skidegate 26 july 1878 haida gwaii is considered by archaeologists as an option for a pacific coastal route taken by the first humans migrating to the americas from the bering strait 29 at this time haida gwaii was likely not an island instead it was connected to vancouver island and the mainland via the now submerged continental shelf 30 31 it is unclear how people arrived on haida gwaii however archaeological sites have established human habitation on the islands as far back as 13 000 years ago 32 populations that formerly inhabited beringia expanded into northern north america after the last glacial maximum and gave rise to eskimo aleuts and na dené indians 33 although unsubstantiated an oral tradition told by the haida chief albert edward edenshaw says that the haida came from northern alaska and travelled to haida gwaii in search of new territory citation needed underwater archaeologists from the university of victoria are seeking to confirm that stone structures discovered in 2014 on the seabed of hecate strait may date back 13 700 or more years ago and be the earliest known signs of human habitation in canada 29 coastal sites of this era are now deep underwater 34 pre colonial era edit the coastal migration hypothesis of the settlement of the americas suggests that the first north americans may have been here when as the oldest human remains known from alaska or canada are from on your knees cave anthropologists have found striking parallels between the myths rituals and dwelling types of the koryaks inhabitants of the kamchatka peninsula and those of the native peoples of the pacific northwest coast at this time the island was twice as large as today there is strong genetic evidence for these early people having an origin there 35 36 the koryaks were a matrilineal seafaring people hunting whales and other marine mammals 37 kujkynnjaku the raven is their primary deity 38 39 most of the raven myths are similar to those of the koryak 39 the group of people inhabiting these islands developed a culture made rich by the abundance of the land and sea these people became the haida the haida are a linguistically distinct group and they have a complex class and rank system consisting of two main clans the eagles and ravens links and diversity within the haida nation were gained through a cross lineal marriage system between the clans this system was also important for the transfer of wealth within the nation with each clan reliant on the other for the building of longhouses the carving of totem poles and other items of cultural importance noted seafarers the haida occupied more than 100 villages throughout the islands the haida were skilled traders with established trade links with their neighbouring first nations on the mainland to california 40 the haida people regularly took slaves from their wars with other peoples around them 41 colonial era edit see also colony of the queen charlotte islands queen charlottes gold rush and colonial police action against the people of haida gwaii the archipelago was first sighted by europeans in 1774 by juan pérez at langara island 42 in 1778 by james cook and in 1786 by lapérouse in 1794 the haida captured and sank two american maritime fur trade vessels seeking to acquire sea otter pelts ino under captain simon metcalfe which was captured in houston stewart channel near ninstints and resolution captured near cumshewa inlet 43 in both cases only one crewmember survived in 1851 the haida captured the georgiana a ship carrying gold prospectors and held its crew for ransom for nearly two months 44 the islands played an important role during the maritime fur trade era of the late 18th and early 19th centuries during most of that era the trade in the islands was dominated by americans 45 the oregon treaty of 1846 put an end to american claims to the islands following the discovery of gold in the 1850s the british made efforts to exclude whatever american territorial claims might remain 46 the colony of the queen charlotte islands was a british colony created by the colonial office in response to the increase in american marine trading activity resulting from the gold rush on moresby island in 1851 no separate administration or capital for the colony was ever established as its only officer or appointee was james douglas who was simultaneously governor of vancouver island in essence the colony was merged with the vancouver island colony for administrative purposes from the 1850s to 1866 when the colony of vancouver island was merged with the mainland which until that point was the separate colony of british columbia 21st century edit in july 2012 entrepreneur russ george dispersed 100 short tons 91 t of iron sulphate dust into the pacific ocean several hundred miles west of the islands of haida gwaii the old massett village council was persuaded to finance this geoengineering experiment as a salmon enhancement project with 1 million in village funds 47 the concept was that the formerly iron deficient waters would produce more phytoplankton that would in turn produce more salmon george hoped to finance the project by using the carbon sequestration effects of the new plankton as marketable carbon offsets the project has been plagued by charges of unscientific procedures and recklessness george contended that 100 tons of iron is negligible compared to what naturally enters the ocean 48 lawyers environmentalists and civil society groups are calling the dumping a blatant violation of two international moratoriums 47 49 george said that the old massett village council and its lawyers approved the effort and at least seven canadian agencies were aware of it 48 in may 2013 the haida salmon restoration corporation removed george as a director of the company and ended his employment 50 the 2013 salmon runs increased from 50 million to 226 million fish 51 but research conducted on 13 major iron fertilization experiments in the open ocean since 1990 concludes that the method is unproven and with respect to the haida gwaii project scientists have seen no evidence that the experiment worked 52 in a deal negotiated between the government and the haida nation over the preceding decades british columbia in 2024 transferred the title over more than 200 islands off canada s west coast to the haida people recognizing the nation s aboriginal land title throughout haida gwaii the deal was the first of its kind in canada 14 13 on 17 february 2025 prime minister justin trudeau and haida nation president gaagwiis jason alsop signed the agreement at a public ceremony at skidegate 53 naming edit the northern pacific northwest coast showing the position of the archipelago in relation to other islands in the region the southern half of prince of wales island is kaigani haida territory but is not included in the term haida gwaii in 1787 captain george dixon surveyed the islands he named the islands the queen charlotte islands after his ship the queen charlotte which was named after charlotte of mecklenburg strelitz wife of king george iii of the united kingdom another name washington s isles was commonly used by american traders who frequented the islands in the days of the marine fur trade and considered the islands part of the us claimed oregon country 8 54 55 following the 1846 oregon treaty which established the current international borders and made the islands definitively part of the british empire the queen charlotte islands name became official on december 11 2009 the british columbia government announced that legislation would be introduced in mid 2010 to officially rename the queen charlotte islands to the new name haida gwaii the legislation received royal assent on june 3 2010 formalizing the name change 2 at an official giving back the name ceremony the name written on a piece of paper and placed in a bentwood box was handed to the premier of british columbia 4 this name change is officially recognized by all levels of canadian governments 56 and also by the united states national geospatial intelligence agency name database 57 the name haida gwaii is a modern coinage and was created in the early 1980s as an alternative to the colonial era name queen charlotte islands to recognize the history of the haida people 2 haida gwaii means islands of the people 4 while haida on its own means not only us but also people still in use is the older name xaadala gwayee or in alternative orthography xhaaidlagha gwaayaai meaning islands at the boundary of the world 2 xhaaydla worlds refers here to the 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