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favicon.ico: patrickleighfermor.org - Patrick Leigh Fermor | He dran.

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site title: Patrick Leigh Fermor He drank from a different fountain

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a translator and interpreter in heraklion for which he was regarded with some mistrust as a result by local people both survived the war and lived in crete dying there at an advanced age he in his nineties there were many other friends too coffee housing was then as now a favourite pastime and regginakis establishment in the main square facing morosini s beautiful venetian fountain our favourite rendezvous here we would sit for hours discussing the war and politics and anything else which occurred to us one day i recall an elderly and bibulous english resident named foster who was the representative in heraklion of the eastern telegraph company stuffed with oranges the mouth of the fountain lions in a sudden fit of enthusiasm in the square itself was always to be seen andreas the village or rather town idiot whose harmless antics were a constant source of amusement andreas i am told was the only person in heraklion allowed by the germans to cheek them with impunity during the occupation he was of course often put up to it by the locals who told him what to say this pleasant life came to an abrupt end on may 20 1941 a cloudless and warm day although for some weeks since the germans had occupied mainland greece we had been expecting an early invasion it was still something of a surprise when it happened proceedings began during the afternoon with some heavy bombing of the airfield area two to three miles east of the town but also of the harbour then around 5pm we saw the troop carriers and the first parachutists i was in the western part of the city and so saw only those who descended some distance beyond the western entrance to the city known as the chania gate but a total of some 2000 german troops were landed on this first day of whom at least half were wiped out by the end of it they had it seems expected to capture the town and the airfield at once and without difficulty but their intelligence must have been very poor since brigadier chapple s british force consisted of 4000 men and there were also quite a large number of greek troops plus many armed civilians from elderly to very young men who fought most valiantly and effectively the germans failed to take the airfield that day and never did take it until after the evacuation they did occupy the greek barracks immediately to the south of the airfield and they forced their way through the town to the harbour but from both these areas they were driven out in the next day or two just prior to the battle i had met john pendlebury then in uniform as a captain pendlebury although still a young man aged 36 had been curator and resident archaeologist at knossos he knew crete far better than any other englishman and during this period when there were no roads to nine out of ten villages nor any other modern amenities he had walked all over the island s 200 mile length and knew hundreds if not thousands of people it was not surprising therefore that he had been asked by the war office though i did not know this at the time to organise and lead resistance to the germans in the event of crete being captured in addition to his unrivalled knowledge of the terrain of the cretans he spoke greek and was young and fit enough to face the physical hardships likely to be involved he was indeed an impressive man to meet tall handsome athletic looking he had an athletic blue at cambridge and twice won the high jump against oxford and with an air of considerable authority the distinction was added to by his having a glass eye the result of a boyhood accident and sporting a swordstick instead of a swagger cane pendlebury had in fact made detailed plans for resistance based initially on the villages round mount ida psilorites and this explains why on may 21 he decided to get out of heraklion in order to activate his resistance organisation possibly while the battle was still in progress and its outcome undecided what has never been explained and i for one have never been able to understand is why so intelligent a man chose to leave the town by the west or chania gate and by car all of us had seen the parachutists landing in the area beyond the gate the day before and it could be safely assumed that they now controlled the main road pendlebury and his driver ran straight into a pocket of parachutists he was seriously wounded in the ensuing skirmish and taken to a nearby house where his wounds were dressed by a german army doctor and he was left overnight the following morning more germans returned and pendlebury was taken outside and shot the assumption is that he had been identified by the germans as potentially their most dangerous opponent in crete and that they decided to eliminate him there and then to shoot a wounded and defenceless enemy in cold blood was of course a war crime but one which could not subsequently be pinned on any individual german it is said that some weeks after the event pendlebury s body was exhumed in order that the germans could satisfy themselves beyond any doubt by examination of his glass eye that it really was pendlebury whom they had killed his loss was a serious one to the allies as it put back resistance and intelligence operations in crete until autumn when the first british personnel of whom i had the honour to be one were infiltrated his reputation however lived on in the villages and future resistance personnel always found it a valuable introduction to villagers they did not know to say they were friends of john pendlebury but why did he not make his way out of heraklion on foot and to the south of the city it must have been safer my personal recollections of the battle are a kaleidoscope of confusion our field security unit had been reinforced if that is the word by the arrival just beforehand of some ncos and the section commander captain burr from chania we were billeted now in a half built house opposite the prefecture nomarcheion there was no lighting and no hand guards to the concrete staircase and captain burr shortly fell from the first floor landing and broke his thigh he was taken to hospital but could not be moved when the evacuation took place and so became a prisoner of war the unit composed of linguists anything except greek and so useless was hopelessly non combatant being armed only with smith wesson 38 revolvers we were only a hindrance to the military proper but did odd guard jobs acted as messengers and anything else we were asked to do it is really only isolated incidents i remember from these seven or eight days of the battle in heraklion a german aircraft coming in from the sea on which a bofors gun scored a direct hit it became a ball of flame as it came down into the water finding transport for a community of french nuns so that they could attempt to get out of the beleaguered town i never discovered whether they did the bombing of the town diving very fast and head first into a ditch as a messerschmidt machine gunned the street where i was standing seeing some german prisoners held near brigade hq in a cave somewhere near the airfield they were very arrogant and confident about the outcome of the battle hearing my name called out down at the harbour during an air raid and discovering it was not me but someone else who was being addressed he turned out from my hurried enquiry to be from royston the town nearest to the village of melbourn where my family have lived since church records were kept but i have never discovered who he was and whether he survived the war during this time i at least had not the slightest idea of how the battle was going in fact it was going well as far as heraklion was concerned but its fate was being decided elsewhere the capture of maleme airfield at chania and complete air control meant that the germans could now land as many troops as required in crete and that the battle was to all intents and purposes over so an evacuation was ordered the chania garrison began the slow and arduous retreat to the south coast at sphakia and the navy prepared to lift off brigadier chapple s 4000 men from heraklion there was no possibility of rescuing the 2000 mostly australian troops in rethymnon most of whom in the event had to surrender though some took refuge in the villages and were fed and sheltered at enormous personal risk by the inhabitants often for months and in some cases years of these most were eventually secretly evacuated by submarine or small boat once british officers had returned to crete to organise such operations and co ordinate resistance at midnight on may 28th a royal navy force of two cruisers and six destroyers reached heraklion for three hours the destroyers ferried troops to the cruisers which lay outside harbour and themselves took on board the remainder we were marched down to the harbour in batches and i shall never forget the silence and desolation of the shattered town i knew so well i took a vow at this moment to return to crete as soon as possible and to help liberate its brave and wonderful people we sailed about 3 30am for six hours from first light until noon by which time we were out of range of the aircraft we were dive bombed continuously the noise of the screaming planes and of the anti aircraft guns was deafening both cruisers were hit orion losing her captain and nearly a hundred men killed among her crew and troops aboard of the six destroyers imperial had her steering gear hopelessly crippled her crew and passengers were taken aboard other ships and she was sunk hereward was badly damaged and had to be run aground on the east coast of crete her crew and passengers became prisoners of war on board jackal where i was we were packed like sardines but suffered only near misses and minor damage towards nightfall we reached alexandria where good ladies with tea and sandwiches greeted us on the quayside then it was off to cairo and the bug infested kasr el nil barracks back in egypt my first act was to approach my commanding officer lt col wordsworth and beg him to get me transferred to whatever unit was responsible for secret operations in crete i am eternally grateful to him for abetting such a request especially from a junior nco quite unknown to him i was introduced in the right quarters given three months training in the operation of a transmitting and receiving wireless set and in encoding messages and was back in crete at the beginning of october 1941 where i was to spend a further two and a half years with the resistance while in egypt i sat down one day and wrote the following poem not included link to my transcription here it is to be read as an allegory of the bonds which unite our two island races each with a famous history i always thought of crete as the last bastion of those allegedly fair haired invaders from the north who had peopled greece in pre classical times in particular the dorians it was noticeable in crete at that time how many people had fair hair and blue eves and noteworthy that nearly all of these turned out to originate from those mountain fastnesses to the south and south east of the white mountains the area of sphakia into which for hundreds of years successive occupiers venetians turks and now germans never penetrated except to make brief forays and so the race remained pure without intermarriage with foreigners there were even unmistakable traces of the old greek language of classical times eg the word pempo i send was regularly used instead of the modern greek stelno note ralph stockbridge was made an officer awarded the military cross in 1942 and a bar in 1944 in which year he also received the honorary citizenship of rethymnon on its liberation from the germans share this share on facebook opens in new window facebook share on x opens in new window x email a link to a friend opens in new window email print opens in new window print more share on reddit opens in new window reddit share on linkedin opens in new window linkedin like loading this entry was posted in other soe obituaries and tagged battle of crete crete john pendlebury mi6 ralph stockbridge soe special operations executive on august 1 2026 by proverbs6to10 traveling at the speed of the soul 1 reply nick hunt photo by esther may campbell i recently came across an article published a couple of years ago by our friend nick hunt he who walked in patrick leigh fermor s footsteps in 2011 and 2012 his book walking the woods and the water nicholas brealey 2014 tells the story of that 2 500 mile walk from the hook of holland to istanbul if you are new to nick and his work do a search on the site or click the category tag here at the time many of us sponsored nick and followed his progress prior to publication of the book the article is called traveling at the speed of the soul and was published in noema it is an enjoyable read and explores the three stages of a pilgrimage departure initiation and return with a focus on the last which nick says is the least examined and perhaps most important you can read the full article here share this share on facebook opens in new window facebook share on x opens in new window x email a link to a friend opens in new window email print opens in new window print more share on reddit opens in new window reddit share on linkedin opens in new window linkedin like loading this entry was posted in uncategorized on july 18 2026 by proverbs6to10 dresden to magdeburg a photo journey 3 replies tom sawford at journey s end magdeburg i returned from my river elbe charity walk three weeks ago since when i have been recovering and catching up with some work the ever present to do list thank you to all those donated i beat my fundraising target for combat stress but it s not too late to contribute in the end i walked 310 km in about ten days it was an interesting journey quite tough on the feet but i came out of it well enough to run a 10km race fpur days after returning quick observations dresden in beautiful but meissen may be better and untouched from the bombing definitely visit both places if you are in the area actually following the elbe from its source in czech republic to dresden is more varied and interesting see my 2022 walk many of the towns i stayed in were clearly poorer than most west german counterparts the influence of communism remains karl marx allee potemkin platz etc and blocks of drab uniform apartments in some former industrial places the accent in saxony but in saxony anhalt in particular is very difficult to follow i often just could not understand what people were saying if you attempt something similar in germany remember that a lot of shops and eateries close in the evening and weekends in the rural areas plan ahead sometimes places to stay can be far apart so one or two long days of walking and carry a little food the beer as ever in germany is good the area between dresden and meissen has some particularly good white wines a total surprise german railways have long since failed to live up to their reputation for being on time my...
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