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description= He drank from a different fountain;
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aper and die away in the darkness then i was alone at last sitting on a hilltop my teeth chattering as the night wind rose i found a rough little hollow out of the wind a miniature crater among the rocks ate some bread and dates unrolled the blanket and wrapped myself inside it i laid the fiddle beside me used the knapsack as a pillow and stretched out on the bed of stones then folded my hands hooked my little fingers together shut my eyes and prepared to sleep but i slept little that night i was attacked by wild dogs or they may have been galician wolves they came slinking and snarling along the ridge of my crater hackles bristling against the moon and only by shouting throwing stones and flashing my torch in their eyes was i able to keep them at bay not till early dawn did they finally leave me and run yelping away down the hillside when i fell at last into a nightmare doze feeling their hot yellow teeth in my bones when i awoke next morning it was already light and voices were screaming at one another in the valley i looked at my watch and it was six o clock and i was heavily drenched in dew i wriggled out of the blanket crawled on to the ridge and lay in the rising sun and was met by the resinous smell of drying bushes peppery herbs and stones as i warmed my stiff limbs i looked down the valley from which the sharp hard cries were coming and saw a group of old women as black as charcoal slapping out sheets along the banks of a stream galician peasants women and spanish unknown and doubly inscrutable their thin bent bodies knelt over the water jerking up and down like drinking hens and as they worked they shrieked firing off metallic bursts of speech that bounced off the rocks like bullets i lay on my belly the warm earth against me and forgot the cold dew and the wolves of the night i felt it was for this i had come to wake at dawn on a hillside and look out on a world for which i had no words to start at the beginning speechless and without plan in a place that still had no memories for me for as i woke that second morning with the whole of spain to walk through i was in a country of which i knew nothing the names of velásquez goya el greco lope de vega juan de la cruz were unknown to me i d never heard of the cordovan moors or the catholic kings nor of the alhambra or the escorial or that trafalgar was a spanish cape gibraltar a spanish rock or that it was from here that columbus had sailed for america my small country school always generous with its information as to the exports of queensland and the fate of jenkins s ear had provided me with nothing more tangible or useful about spain than that seville had a barber and barcelona nuts but i was innocent then of my ignorance and so untroubled by it my clothes steamed and dried as the sun grew stronger the distant sea shone white a clean morning freshness after last night s smoky fires the rising hills before me went stepping away inland fiercely shaped under the great blue sky i nibbled some bread and fruit rolled my things in a bundle and washed my head and feet in a spring then shouldering my burden and still avoiding the road i took a track south east for zamora for three or four days i followed the track through the hills but saw only occasional signs of life sometimes a shepherd s hut or a distant man walking or a solitary boy with a flock of goats otherwise no sound or movement except the eagles overhead and the springs gushing out of the rocks the track climbed higher into the clear cold air and i just followed it hoping to keep direction when twilight came i curled up where i was too exhausted to mind the cold one night i took shelter in a ruined castle which i found piled on top of a crag a gaunt roofless fortress tufted with the nests of ravens and scattered with abandoned fires the skeleton of a sheep stood propped in one corner picked clean like a wicker basket and drawings of women and horses were scratched round the walls an obvious refuge i thought for bandits but i slept well enough in the tottering place in spite of its audible darkness the rustling in the walls the squeaks and twitters and the sighing of the mountain wind otherwise all i remember of those first days from vigo is a deliriously sharpening hunger an appetite so keen it seemed almost a pity to satisfy it so voluptuous it was by the second day i d finished my bread and dates but i found a few wild grapes and ate them green and also the remains of a patch of beans extract from chapter 3 of as i walked out one midsummer morning copyright laurie lee 1969 share this share on facebook opens in new window facebook share on x opens in new window x email a link to a friend opens in new window email print opens in new window print more share on reddit opens in new window reddit share on linkedin opens in new window linkedin like loading this entry was posted in uncategorized and tagged as i walked out one midsummer morning laurie lee on august 22 2026 by proverbs6to10 we have a true book loving queen and she is a marvel leave a reply shepherd market w1 has many ghosts some of whom are literary in the shadow of patrick leigh fermor s former digs the scene of wild and continuous parties in the summer of 1933 heywood hill has just celebrated 90 years of bookselling in today s republic of letters we have a true book loving queen and she is a marvel to mark heywood hill s anniversary her majesty graciously toured our tiny shop she talked about her love of all kinds of books the cazalet chronicles in particular and gamely joined jerry vinalon and jay lomot our splendid professional book packers in helping them gift wrap parcels she signed a postcard which one lucky book subscriber should find in their next package by nicky dunne first published in the spectator behind paywall not every customer is so fortunate i love the story of an incensed christopher isherwood ringing the shop from california many decades ago boiling with outrage at our latest invoice and the high cost of postage from london it did not help his mood that inside his most recent parcel he discovered that our then packer had mistakenly included a very large and heavy hammer as hmq left the shop this month the irrepressible jeffrey archer was waiting outside with a warm greeting lord a is well known here his son william remembers that on his graduation jeffrey generously opened an unlimited tab for him at heywood hill any book that i fancied i could charge to my father s account cue 30 years of boundless reading pleasure enjoyment is what bookselling appears to be all about good books and invariably interesting people continuously flow through our shop just as the old river tyburn is now piped beneath it unlike the faux intimacy of anti social media lolling with my entertaining and talented team in a fast moving current of bookish acquaintance is pretty refreshing and keeps the mind ticking over i love it two really gifted readers have both been colleagues originally immigrants one american and young the other german and less so the first devours well over 200 books a year and she would with great insight summarise any on demand the other is a high lama of reading devoted to the mind expanding possibilities of print and the nourishing sediments good books settle within the broad accessibility of literature is appealing book savants may be found anywhere another patrick was a builder a hard as nails foreman on a refurbishment next door chatting to him on the pavement one day he turned to our window saying i see you have some proust in yes we do pause i only read him in the french and i much prefer rimbaud a bow was offered despite well everything britain s literary ecology is still just about intact the queen is doing all that she can to support it and imaginatively so who else could organise to give away physical copies this christmas of a very good children s book katherine rundell s impossible creatures to every ten year old in the country but in general the literary landscape is pretty parched and in need of constant watering by book people everywhere on the bookshop side there are around 1 000 independents heroically trading up and down the land each adapted to their own topographical niche we are blessed in the habitats mayfair supports never mind the new pm round here robin birley would be a strong candidate for mayor the sight of robin perambulating between his exceptional establishments is reassuring for those of us on the front line of retail or hospitality and we feel like a rare mixture of both even robin s dogs have a high style about them and he s been known to tip his booksellers too there s no one like him people are usually far more nuanced than how they are seen nancy mitford the homeric heroine of our shop s creation myth took a job here soon after an unexpected hysterectomy her panache quickly put the place on the map in august 1942 she wrote i had a smart set to with evelyn about the marmalade cat having gone up to 6 s however in the end he took it nancy s sister jessica was the red sheep of her family emigrating in early 1939 to the united states pretty gutsy aged 21 where she became a pioneering journalist the family scribe is now jessica s grandson james forman jr a law professor at yale and author of locking up our own with a pulitzer prize to his name abunch of writers and others heywood hill s charming daughter harriet john saumarez smith s gifted son george called in to celebrate our 90th we met in shepherd market still an atmospheric village largely left alone by tourism and still full of character and characters back in 1933 patrick l f lodged in number 28 beatrice stewart a former artist s model with a prosthetic metal leg was his landlady in her youth she was immortalised by the sculptor adrian jones as the wreath bearing winged charioteer atop wellington arch as paddy put it just a minute from her window sill in the market as the pigeon flies immortals both for another 90 years at least i d kill to read beatrice s memoirs and p l f s part in them share this share on facebook opens in new window facebook share on x opens in new window x email a link to a friend opens in new window email print opens in new window print more share on reddit opens in new window reddit share on linkedin opens in new window linkedin like loading this entry was posted in uncategorized on august 15 2026 by proverbs6to10 ralph stockbridge crete memoir 4 replies ralph stockbridge almost the very first article i posted back in 2010 when i started this blog was not about paddy at all although he does get a mention it was the obituary of soe officer ralph stockbridge which you can read here a fellow blogger kyle glover spent some time in the national library of scotland going through some of the documents in the patrick leigh fermor archive one of these was the memoir of ralph stockbridge acc 13338 412 describing army life on crete before the invasion his interactions with civilians an encounter with the famous archaeologist john pendlebury the battle of crete and his desire to return and help liberate the brave and wonderful cretan people following the battle stockbridge joined the inter services liaison department a front organisation for mi6 trained as a radio operator and returned to crete to set up an intelligence gathering network though not a member of the special operations executive he worked closely alongside and became good friends with many of the soe agents who were infiltrated onto crete the following text is a direct transcription made by kyle of stockbridge s unpublished memoir including the capitalisation of surnames kyle appears to have ceased writing his blog last post 2024 so just in case it disappears i have posted his work below kyle and i have been on touch on facebook in the past so i don t think he will mind his original work can be found here ralph stockbridge crete december 1940 may 1941 i came to crete by accident france was my first love and i had joined the field security corps early in 1940 because someone had told me that as i spoke fluent french this was the best way of getting to france quickly but just as france was falling i had found myself in one of the first field security sections sent to the middle east fate again intervened this time in the shape of appendicitis to prevent me joining the section in northern greece and being involved in the subsequent retreat instead i found myself in the section sent to crete at the end of december 1940 my first impressions were unfavourable we were under canvas in an olive grove beside the main chania suda road and it rained incessantly our encampment became a morass and we were wet and miserable of the few weeks spent in chania i remember curiously little and the town has never had for me the attraction of rethymnon and heraklion three things from this period stick in my memory however my instant liking of the greek people my first encounter with the greek language and the death of metaxas our field security duties brought us into contact with greek officials in the harbour and elsewhere and one met and drank coffee with greek soldiers on their way to or on leave from albania their friendliness and courtesy made a lasting impression on me i have a photograph of some of them taken by the quayside at chania the names of four of them were loannis palides michael koutroules lambakes and spyros orphanos the latter with an address in athens 108 patission the first words of greek which i heard completely mystified me they were of a peasant woman shouting at her small boy behind our tents and she appeared to be saying come here at once adonis as the child was not particularly beautiful i thought this otherwise charming survival of a name from classical times somewhat inappropriate and it took me some time to work out that his mother was really calling him antoni tony in english and even longer to learn that the accent is on the first syllable of the name adonis in greek the sudden death of the prime minister general metaxas whose heroic rejection of the italian ultimatum on 28 october 1940 brought greece into the second world war as britain s only ally at that time caused consternation in chania i have never before or since that date seen people crying openly in the streets and this was the more remarkable in of all places chania the birthplace of venizelos whose followers professed then as their successors still do hatred for the right wing in general and dictators in particular early in march two members of our section myself and david bowe he a well informed and witty fleet street journalist before the war now with the rank of sergeant to my lance corporal were sent off on our motor bikes to represent the section in heraklion we passed through rethymnon on march 8th and i contrived to be photographed in the company of the local gendarmerie commander and a group of bystanders one of whom was named polydoros nikoloudes we rode on through beautiful scene...
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