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i m posting the templates and a very mini tutorial for my version of a reusable menstrual pad i m not a seamstress by any stretch of the imagination so there may well be an easier way to achieve the same result this one consists of two parts a pocketed liner that snaps around your keks and an insert pad that slips into the pockets on the liner you can make the insert as thick or thin as you like and you can use a couple of inserts together depending on your needs obviously you may use whatever fabrics you like for this one i ve used flannel for the outsides and cotton batting for the core i ve had success with cores made from terry and flannel but batting is my preferred material because it s absorbent without being bulky some people will want to use pul or nylon to provide a measure of water proofing but i haven t i don t need it myself and i prefer not to use synthetic fibres in my pads ymmv my instructions are for turned and topstitched pads i actually prefer the type with a serged overlocked edge it s quicker and easier to make and results in a smoother pad overall but the overlock stitch on my machine isn t tight enough to prevent fraying so for durability t t it is the finished size of the liner is 10 25 long and 3 wide when snapped shut 7 wide from wing to wing the insert is 9 75 long and 2 5 wide in the middle if you prefer a larger or smaller pad simply print out at the size you need i e for an 11 pad increase to around 113 for an 8 decrease to around 82 and so on bear in mind that this will also alter the width so you ll need to take that into account okay first wash and dry your fabrics the sewing police will not come after you if you don t but there s really little point in carefully measuring to get the the size you want only for your lovingly crafted pad to shrink the first time it s washed it s not as though the shrinkage will be nice and uniform either try it if you don t believe me print and cut out the templates the liner and pad insert templates are actual size and have no seam allowances the one for the pocket is larger than the finished size it s supposed to be gah i m having real problems trying to upload the templates as images so i ve had to make them into a pdf click the pic on the right for the file i had to darken the edges to get them to show up on the scan sorry about the poor quality unless you want a particularly jazzy pad cut the two pockets from the same fabric then hem down the top edge using a wash out fabric pen draw around the other templates onto your fabrics you ll need two liner shapes and two insert pad shapes in your outer fabric s to reduce bulk at the edges of my pad i cut the cotton batting core about 0 25 smaller all around than the insert template and sew it separately onto the wrong side ws of one of the pieces of flannel before making up quilting the core to the flannel keeps the pad nice and thin pin the right sides rs of flannel together sew around the shape you drew for the insert leaving a couple of inches unstitched to enable you to turn it the right way out cut away the excess fabric turn it rs out and stitch around the pad close to the edge layer the fabric for the liner as in the pic below flannel rs facing up then the pocket rs up with hemmed edge towards the centre then flannel rs down pin and sew again leaving a gap on one of the wings through which to turn rs out trim the excess fabric turn it rs out and stitch around the wings close to the edge add a popper snap and bob s your uncle in the interests of full disclosure i have to say that when the pad is finished and folded the shape is much too rectangular for my liking i e not shaped like the gussets on my knickers that makes the pad ruck up a bit which is most definitely not good i solved this problem by making the wings narrower i don t have a pic of how that looks but it ends up shaped very much like the blue one in this picture that s the perfect shape for me if you use this pattern to make your own pads i d really love it if you d send me pics thanks posted in pattern sewing tagged cloth pad eco feminine menstrual menstrual pad reusable pad tutorial 8 comments chained down posted by ali g on wednesday 2 july 2008 i have a new sock pattern that i ve put up for sale in ravelry and i ve already sold a few chained down posted in knitting pattern socks tagged pattern socks that rock str 6 comments my short row rainbows posted by ali g on tuesday 18 march 2008 i ve been asked by a few people about my rainbow sock how i m using the yarn over method without messing up the stitch count and to share what i m doing to get hole free short rows describing the process solely in words is far more difficult than i expected so i ve added a few pics to help clarify clicking on the photos will open larger versions of them in flickr i expect there are better written and more comprehensive instructions of this technique out on the web this is simply how i used it for this project i started out by following the instructions on the pattern but they made absolutely no sense to me and i ended up with a right mess so i chose a method using yarnovers i have no idea who to give credit to for this technique i ve seen it used in patterns all over the place marker used for clarity to denote start of short row section and placement of stitches 1 knit 2 stitches 2 turn work take yarn back between the needles and forward over the top of the right hand needle reverse yo purl 4 the first stitch will feel a little weird at least it did to me this is a top view showing the yo and the 4 purled stitches note that after the yarnover there is an equal number of stitches on each side of the marker 3 turn work bring the yarn forward between the needles and back over the top of the right hand needle yo knit 4 the following stitch is the yo from the previous row and is mounted the wrong way on the needle 4 reverse the mount of this yo so it looks like this 5 knit the yo together with the next stitch like a k2tog to close the gap and knit the next 3 stitches 6 turn work make a reverse yo as in step 2 purl 8 the following stitch is the yo from the previous row 7 slip the yo knitwise slip the next stitch knitwise return them both to the left needle and close the gap by purling them together through their back loops like this 8 purl 3 stitches and turn the work you have 6 stitches on each side of the marker like this 9 continue in this way working 3 plain stitches after closing the gap on each row like this row 1 rs k2 turn row 2 ws rev yo step 2 p4 turn row 3 yo k 4 close the gap steps 4 5 k3 turn row 4 rev yo p8 close the gap step 7 p3 turn row 5 yo k12 close the gap k3 turn row 6 rev yo p16 close the gap p3 turn row 7 yo k20 close the gap k3 turn row 8 rev yo p24 close the gap p3 turn row 9 yo k28 close the gap k3 turn and so on the pattern instructs you to knit or purl 4 stitches after working the turn stitch i found that following the yarnover method of working short rows only 3 stitches should be knitted or purled to maintain the correct count clear as mud feel free to contact me if i haven t explained it well enough all that said i m leaning strongly towards frogging mine the bias is quite noticeable after 4 short row sections and i can only foresee it worsening after the 6 repeats needed for the foot at the very least i m ripping the heel back to redo and maybe continuing down the foot in plain stocking stitch posted in knitting socks wip tagged rainbows regia silk short rows yarn over 6 comments new pathways posted by ali g on wednesday 29 august 2007 a few people have asked what my initial thoughts are on cat bordhi s latest book new pathways for sock knitters so here they are please bear in mind that this is not meant to be a comprehensive book review and is purely my personal opinion nothing more nothing less a little info the book is soft bound and 9 5 h x 10 w 24cm x 25 5cm with 136 pages there is a master template for each of eight sock architectures together with different designs for each style patterns for several little learning socks are included a selection of cuffs heels and toes is can be found at the back of the book information covering stitch mount increases decreases how to slip a stitch correctly wraps and so on is located at the front each master pattern is written in such a way to allow the use of whatever yarn and needles you fancy here s what i think it s a pity the book doesn t have a spiral binding to prevent it from flopping closed the content however is nicely laid out with thoughtful use of italics and font colour for clarity the photos are clear as are the plentiful diagrams showing stitch and marker placements for both circular and double pointed needles one thing that bugs me about publishers of knitting books is how many of them fill a third or more of the pages with basic techniques i really begrudge shelling out money for the same regurgitated instructions of how to form a knit stitch when all i really want are the patterns i suspect it s a cynical way to pad out a book without having to present anything new anyway new pathways isn t like that the information covering everything you ll need to knit the socks is there but it s presented in a concise way even though experienced knitters will most likely be familiar with the techniques i like that they weren t omitted their inclusion removes any ambiguity when the instructions call for a particular procedure the information is sound with easy to understand diagrams but the style of writing grates on me a bit i don t see what s wrong with calling a stitch a stitch it is after all a book on knitting if it were to teach knitting to children i daresay calling stitches corgis and wraps diamond necklaces would be appropriate but really youngsters aren t the targeted readership and the cutesy talk and imagery is just distracting ymmv the book has a definite slant towards toe up socks with 6 toe up constructions and 2 cuff down now i m not a fan of toe ups but the first pattern i picked to try is just that there isn t a gusset or standard short row heel in sight and that s what intrigued me in the first place the method of shaping is not dissimilar to the one used for my freaky socks although the rest of the sock is obviously quite different bordhi primarily uses left and right lifted increases for shaping which she has chosen to rename leaning left and leaning right increases the eight master socks each have their increases in different places which is what creates the variety of styles for people who like to follow directions it s all there for them for those who prefer to experiment it ll be really simple to use the single underlying concept to come up with many more master architectures of their own the patterns that accompany each master over twenty of them are appealing and different from the usual and the baby socks are just gorgeous before starting we re instructed to gather a list of master sock numbers consisting of tension gauge obtained with whatever needles and yarn will be used along with various foot measurements a little simple arithmetic and use of the tables provided produces the other key numbers that are needed these are then slotted into the master pattern to create a custom sock when i put my figures together i was disconcerted and extremely sceptical when i saw the huge number of stitches i d be knitting on at some point i hadn t intended to start a new pair of socks until next month but curiosity and an overwhelming need for an excuse to get out of a tedious task got the better of me the sock i ve chosen is primarily stocking stitch i wanted the fact that there s no gusset line to be clear and stocking stitch shows that nicely it also has the added bonus of knitting up really quickly the pattern is the home hearth anklet and uses the ridgeline master template it fits beautifully what i had believed to be a ridiculous number of stitches 102 at one point turns out to have been spot on i m glad i trusted the numbers well kind of i found a couple of errors in the instructions one of which wasn t listed with the errata i subsequently found despite not being a fan of the style of writing i am a fan the book and the patterns i love the fit of the sock i made and i m looking forward to making some of the others that i ve actually enjoyed knitting a toe up sock tells me the book was worth the price still looking for a way to cast off that looks pretty here s how it came out home hearth the colour has rendered really poorly in this second photo and is better represented in the other shots look ma no gusset line close up of side its mate won t be cast on until i ve made reasonable progress on aforementioned tedious task so the pair probably won t make an appearance until sometime in september posted in knitting socks wip 12 comments fo freaky socks posted by ali g on friday 17 august 2007 this is my favourite shot because it makes my feet look slimmer than they really are construction cuff down part knitted in the round part knitted flat 2 25mm circular and dpns yarns regia 4 ply in burgundy 534 regia tweed in blue 52 lorna s laces shepherd sock in watercolor pattern lace socks by gerdine strong available from knitting universe mods i changed the positioning of the increases to make the sides symmetrical i m certain there ll be more of these in future but i ll take greater care to ensure i have sufficient yarn next time i d have much preferred them had i not needed to make on the fly yarn substitutions either the requirements given with the pattern were somewhat short or my calculations were wildly out when i was deciding what colours to use whatever the reason i ve ended up with a unique pair of socks the other thing i ll do with the next ones is reduce the number of stitches slightly this pair has the cuff worked over 60 sts which is then increased to 64 overall i don t think it needed the increases posted in knitting socks yarn 12 comments p13tog posted by ali g on saturday 14 april 2007 contadine commented how on earth does one purl 13 stitches together at the same time i can t even imagine it i wondered the same thing myself whilst not a total disaster my first attempt was er interesting the needles are jolly slippery and i was having a bit of trouble keeping everything under control at the very start of the row i lost a few stitches off the needle and was distraught to the point where i was ready to rip the whole thing out two things gave me pause my hubby who is my voice of reason and the thought of having to cast on all those stitches again so i sat down and fiddled about with trying to recreate the yarn overs from the previous row and came up with something that i m hoping has done the trick i won t be sure it s worked out properly until i finish the row and compare this corner with the one on the opposite side if anyone is aghast at my leaving the knitting mid row sue me then i hit upon the idea of using a dpn for the p13tog and everything ...
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