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november 2011 coming soon nostalgie posted on november 30 2011 by laurie e 17 the vintage inspired scent that i ve mentioned from time to time over the last year is nearly ready here is the first post i wrote about it back in oct 2010 i worked on it last winter and then put it down for most of the summer but i picked it back up this fall and finished it i ve had the name nostalgie in mind for months but didn t want to give it out until the scent was done i had mailed out some early mods under the working name parfum classique but i had not planned to use that as the final name i like nostaglie better than something with classic in the name because each person has a slightly different view for what is classic but i think there is more leeway for what is considered nostalgic nostalgie also seems like a more low key name so i m more comfortable with it i ve put up the page for nostalie so that you ll know what is coming and i will release it as soon as the first batch is filtered and ready to go which should be late next week if all goes well most of the notes stayed the same throughout the development though i softened the sandalwood deleted the tobacco absolute and added mimosa absolute and violet leaf this scent features many fine naturals mysore sandalwood jasmine sambac absolute bulgarian rose absolute french beeswax absolute mimosa absolute violet leaf absolute labdanum aged indian patchouli natural oakmoss myrrh because of the cost of the extravagant ingredients the price point will be higher on this scent it is an aldehydic floral so you probably need to enjoy aldehydes to like it though i kept the aldehydes and animalic notes softer than you ll find in many vintage perfumes hope those who like vintage style will enjoy this one posted in sonoma scent studio updates 17 replies happy thanksgiving posted on november 24 2011 by laurie e 2 wanted to give my wishes for a great holiday weekend we aren t celebrating until friday when my brother and his family can come up but i m looking forward to that the photo above shows one of my japanese maples in fall color last year this year wasn t as bright for some reason it should be a busy weekend visiting with family keeping up with orders and working on the launch of the vintage inspired scent i m testing the first little scaled up batch and making sure it is where i want it before making more i ve been asked when the amber lotion and amber shea cream will be available i had to set that formula aside for now to finish the vintage inspired scent but i ll get back to the amber i ran into trouble because the amber scent mix is dark brown and that s not an attractive color to use in lotion i need to see if i can make some substitutions to lighten it vanillin is well known for discoloring soap and lotion to a brown color over time but there are some other vanilla scented ingredients that don t discolor the labdanum and tolu are brown too though so i need to play with it more this turned out to be a more complex product to develop than i d anticipated happy thanksgiving hope your weekend is a wonderful one with family and friends posted in sonoma scent studio updates 2 replies some new reviews and a weekend update posted on november 20 2011 by laurie e 2 thank you birgit for your poignant review of tabac aurea on olfactoria s travels and thanks kelsey for including sss champagne de bois in your youtube video review of current 5 fall favorites along with lanvin arpege guerlain tonka imperiale parfumerie generale praline de santal and l artisan traversee du bosphore also i discovered a blog new to me that has covered some sss scents from a man s perspective most recently with a post yesterday thanks michael i m trying to release the new vintage inspired scent in early december if all goes well next week if i can t make it i d hold off until january i will know by the end of next week i m looking forward to seeing my brother and his family when they come up for thanksgiving can t believe it s almost december we ve had some beautiful fall days with the late afternoon light illuminating the golden leaves in the nearby vineyards it s a special time of year posted in sonoma scent studio updates 2 replies new fig tree reviews and update posted on november 15 2011 by laurie e 9 reviews of fig tree perfume and shea cream were just posted on the non blonde and perfume pharmer thanks gaia and monica i spent over half the day going to best buy to replace my failed internet connection my mifi device refused to start when i woke up this morning i was back online by noon but fell a bit behind today and am still catching up most testers have been very enthusiastic about the latest mod of the vintage inspired scent it has a stronger floral character with an added mimosa note when i work on formulas i usually start by making very small batches using ingredients diluted in alcohol once the formula is close to done i switch to larger batches using full strength ingredients though i still use dilutions for the strongest items like aldehydes i always have to spend a bit of time on that conversion once it is done i can scale the formula to any batch size and it ll come out the same i m busy working on the formula conversion and final stages on this vintage inspired scent i also have a men s scent in the works posted in sonoma scent studio updates 9 replies fig tree bottle draw posted on november 11 2011 by laurie e 4 there s a half oz bottle of fig tree up for grabs on cafleurebon s 11 11 post of predictions for next year not too many entrants yet so you may want to toss your name in the hat if you like fig i don t plan to sponsor another give away until holiday season when i ll host something here on my own blog posted in sonoma scent studio updates 4 replies link to interview with guerlain s thierry wasser on basenotes posted on november 9 2011 by laurie e 4 marian bendeth s in depth interview with thierry wasser of guerlain is now up at basenotes he discusses sourcing ingredients including sustainable sources for sandalwood in sri lanka where three trees are planted for every one that is cut he also talks about the challenges of ifra about trying to maintain the old classic formulas while also introducing new spins on them about the new role of bloggers in the fragrance industry and about how his early childhood in switzerland fostered an interest in nature and botany an interesting read he certainly has a huge set of responsibilities on his shoulders posted in perfume general 4 replies a few ifra related notes on massoia bark and oakmoss posted on november 6 2011 by laurie e reply i noticed a few ifra related things in the news recently that i thought might be of interest hermes is releasing a perfume by jean claude ellena called santal massoia the notes sound delicious a milky blend of sandalwood and massoia which is a lactonic coconut scented oil produced from the bark of the massoia tree the interesting twist is that oil from massoia bark is prohibited by ifra because it can cause skin irritation so the massoia note in this perfume is likely constructed with synthetic lactones not with natural masssoia bark unless they ve come up with a massoia oil that is ifra approved massoia bark oil is completely prohibited in fragrance rather than limited to a low usage rate though you see it used sometimes by natural perfumers who choose not to follow ifra guidelines bo jensen s great site has an entry for massoia if you re curious to read more about it another item in the news that brought ifra to my mind basenotes posted a teaser for an upcoming interview with guerlain s perfumer thierry wasser interviewer marian bendeth asks wasser about the difficulties of reformulating to meet ever changing ifra regulations and he mentions that he now has a natural moss that meets ifra standards this is true we have a natural moss that has had nearly all the atranol allergens removed but even that is restricted to 0 1 in a formula which is not going to give you vintage mitsouko it will be interesting to read the full interview i have wondered if the industry will come up with a natural moss that ifra will approve at a higher usage rate but i ve not heard of any such product yet just synthetic reconstitutions i love the natural low atranol moss we have but wish we could use it at a higher rate combining it with moss replacing synthetics can help posted in perfume general perfume making ingredients perfumery leave a reply midweek update posted on november 3 2011 by laurie e 1 i just received a notice from amazon that the back ordered book perfume the alchemy of scent by jean claude ellena has shipped it s now in stock if it interests you i can t seem to give a link without it putting you into my amazon account but it is easy to find on amazon also now smell this ran a post about it a while back when it was only for pre order i like the violet leaf in the new vintage mod i m working on the mimosa also seems very nice in it and fits well with the aldehydes i m worried about sweetness though i need to try a few tweaks to see if they might improve the formula but i feel i m on to something here there was a review of the new fig tree scent posted at eaumg yesterday thanks victoria i m going to be really busy from now until after christmas but starting early next year i d like to get back to more posts about ingredients and general perfumery topics of interest i ve not had as much time for general posts as i d like so we ll get back to those after the holidays posted in sonoma scent studio updates 1 reply time to bring out the incense posted on november 1 2011 by laurie e 4 the fall chill seems to have arrived in many places with some locations on the east coast even getting snow for halloween the bois de jasmin blog today lists favorite incense scents to bring out this time of year and incense pure is included in the list thanks victoria also on undina s looking glass violet perfumes are reviewed and wood violet is included we have a blustery fall morning today the leaves have turned yellow in portions of the vineyards below us and our oak trees are dropping leaves and acorns the woodpeckers and squirrels have been fighting over the acorns have you ever seen a woodpecker dive bomb a squirrel to defend an oak tree in a territorial squabble we ve seen some feisty birds here hope you had a great halloween i need to find out what my nieces wore posted in sonoma scent studio updates 4 replies subscribe to updates subscribe to perfume in progress email updates a link to our site sonoma scent studio follow us on facebook follow sss on facebook follow us on twitter follow us on twitter perfumery the fragrance creation process ten tips for exploring the world of perfume running a perfume business learning perfumery classes schools defining niche indie artisan a note on the idea of a brand s signature base oakmoss q a talking scent design with miriam vareldzis safety standards for naturals dabney rose artisan perfumer distiller plantswoman back to bases a note on scent concentration eu regulations update scent perception study finds 30 differences in people s scent receptors more about individual scent perception our own scent truth every human may have a unique nose more on the sense of smell recent posts sonoma scent studio has a new owner fixed email subscriptions and new post in honor of spring new blog the artisan insider sending wishes for joyous holidays happy thanksgiving categories blog news botanical nature art and photography cosmetics and body products favorites gardening interview series olfaction perfume general perfume making ingredients perfumery personal update reviews sonoma scent studio updates uncategorized recent comments saifur rahman on the fragrance creation process from inspiration to release the art and science of perfume manufacturing a natural guide for curious minds scentsciencebeauty on the fragrance creation process from inspiration to release how is perfume made a guide to scientific perfume manufacturing scentsciencebeauty on the fragrance creation process from inspiration to release the art and science of molecular fragrance design navigating perfume development scentsciencebeauty on the fragrance creation process from inspiration to release ai innovation in fragrance the new era of perfume development scentsciencebeauty on the fragrance creation process from inspiration to release uncovering the secrets how is perfume made scentsciencebeauty on the fragrance creation process from inspiration to release the art and science of molecular fragrance design scentsciencebeauty on the fragrance creation process from inspiration to release navigating perfume development a fragrance patent analysis guide scentsciencebeauty on the fragrance creation process from inspiration to release ai innovation in fragrance creation how tech is shaping perfume development scentsciencebeauty on the fragrance creation process from inspiration to release how is perfume made the science behind scents scentsciencebeauty on the fragrance creation process from inspiration to release cracking the scent code a chill guide to molecular fragrance design scentsciencebeauty on the fragrance creation process from inspiration to release ai innovation in fragrance development how tech is changing the scent game scentsciencebeauty on the fragrance creation process from inspiration to release unlocking the essence a guide to molecular fragrance design scentsciencebeauty on the fragrance creation process from inspiration to release navigating the complex world of fragrance patent science scentsciencebeauty on the fragrance creation process from inspiration to release ai innovation in fragrance creation how technology is transforming perfume development scentsciencebeauty on the fragrance creation process from inspiration to release archives june 2019 march 2019 december 2018 november 2018 september 2018 july 2018 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