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site title: The Indy Independent commentary on liquor and traveland whatever strikes a chord.

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ution clout that is considerably stronger you re significantly more likely to find its core range comprising a 12 18 and 21yo in your preferred bars and liquor stores if you re partial to the traditional sweet spicy pedro ximenez flavours in your whisky and who wouldn t be then this is great news for you glendronach is noteworthy for employing the highest percentage of px casks in the industry caramba as it appeared p1 as it appeared p2 share this email a link to a friend opens in new window email share on facebook opens in new window facebook share on x opens in new window x like loading leave a comment posted in whisky column tagged craigellachie glendronach port charlotte two days as a tsar posted on 2 november 2019 by patrick leave a comment what to do with 48 hours in st petersburg first published in sawubona magazine november 2019 edition the holy grail of travel is the destination that delivers a big bang for a bargain st petersburg exemplifies this rare bird in all its splendour moscow may dominate in scale and gravitas but russia s second city thrives in its shadow its beauty legacy and charisma generating their own glittering light the grandeur of its days as the seat of an empire may be somewhat faded but it s re emerging and its reinvigorated and reimagined modern incarnation in which electric bands busk on the boulevards is every bit as compelling here now you don t need to earn like a tsar to live like a tsar for a few days at least stay you may well choose to lodge in one of the city s numerous grand hotels a thrifty opportunity to lather yourself in bit of luxury and indeed some of these may be worth a visit regardless for tchaikovsky nights at the belmond as an example however in a country where banyas steams baths are integral to the culture a boutique hotel offering this facility makes for an authentic alternative fitting the bill handsomely is the rossi hotel spa long on olde worlde charm short on unnecessary posturing it s a quaint and intimate establishment the type where the veteran doorman takes personal pride in extending hospitality and sharing his local knowledge it s conveniently located satisfyingly comfortable and unobtrusively atmospheric with lavish spreads for breakfast but its highlight though must be the spa itself if you like the idea of setting your day into gentle motion with an hour divided between the sauna and the turbo powered jet pool then this is just the place for you see the priority when arriving in a new city should be to get the lay of the land which in st petersburg ironically is best accomplished off the land its network of canals feeding in and out of the neva offers a magnificent vantage point from which to conduct a quick or leisurely as you would have it exploration there is a plethora of providers routes tours and formats which can be overwhelming a specialist operator such as red sun tours whose high quality offerings range from customised private excursions to small group tours might be a useful place to start making your arrangements once orientated the sight seeing as you d expect for one of the great capitals of western culture is replete with possibilities some of the most noteworthy being the hermitage the world s second largest art museum after the louvre housed largely in the legendary winter palace with its love it or hate it green pigmentation the peterhof peter the great s sprawling keeping up with the joneses response to the palace of versailles the fabergé museum home to the largest private collection of the eponymous eggs and a palaceful of other exceptional designware and the mariinsky theatre one of the iconic stages and spiritual homes of ballet this ball of string though is as long as you want it to be dine if the way to a traveller s heart was through their stomach probably the case for many of us then st petersburg would be in for the win hitting a trifecta of quality variety and tradition the uber cool mansarda boasting a mesmerising view onto the enormous gold plated dome of st isaac s cathedral is a case in point crafting a combination of classic dishes including delicious renditions of local staples such as borsht and stroganoff and modern fusion cuisine its expansive menu is accompanied by an even broader 450 strong wine list stewarded by one of russia s top sommeliers featuring the regular cast of course but also exponents from more obscure regions such as georgia hungary israel and russia itself a singular dining experience less flash but every bit as delightful is makaronniki a trattoria that ll have you questioning your location in the world in a field as dense and competitive as the purveying of italian food it s a tall order to stand out but stand out it does and then some the pesto focaccia the tomato cappuccino with ricotta froth and the pork stracotto with bbq ice cream in particular are of the highest calibre throw in a rooftop courtyard a well considered italo centric drinks menu and the most imaginative desserts you could hope to eat and you ve got a lock for your schedule buon appetito has just been appropriated to russian drink if you re in the market for a few mellow cocktails you ll be hard pressed to find better satisfaction than with apotheke and its master barman whose prodigious skill seems its reason for being there s a chalked up cocktail list comprising both universal and house recipes to guide your selecting but apotheke also subscribes to the entertaining trend of taking orders by flavour with damn fine results savour one of the great joys of travel is the prospect of sampling local traditions and local delicacies in situ where they re usually at their best arguably this doesn t get more exquisite than in russia the home of caviar a tsar would simply order a kilogram of albino beluga but for the rest of us st petersburg s artcaviar presents an outstanding alternative this caviar boutique with its adjoining caviar inspired fine dining restaurant offers the ideal setting for acquainting yourself with this delicacy the knowledgeable staff whose passion and zeal are undoubtable and the sublime culinary creations witness pressed caviar in straciatella cheese with strawberries expertly paired with russian or other wines make for an indelible experience when people advise you to spend your money on experiences rather than things this is what they mean for those with a sweet tooth the russian afternoon tea at the astoria is a special treat the hotel has been host to some of the world s most recognisable names so a visit represents a chance to rub shoulders and to linger in its aristocratic setting listening to live piano and enjoying russian pastries such as pirosky which is savoury sguschenka and medovik cake go hungry move ride hailing applications such as bolt gett and yandex make the best means for moving about in st petersburg make sure you get yourself a russian sim card on arrival it s an essential requirement for accessing wifi in most places as it appeared p1 as it appeared p2 share this email a link to a friend opens in new window email share on facebook opens in new window facebook share on x opens in new window x like loading leave a comment posted in uncategorized tagged russia st petersburg 48 hours in hong kong posted on 22 july 2019 by patrick 3 comments first published in sawubona magazine july 2019 edition twenty years ago and before at a time when an incursion into the mainland was too forbidding for most hong kong offered a précised and sanitised chinese experience for travellers and traders alike it was a window to china this view of things is now a footnote in history completely outdated redundant the world has shrunk and liberalised china is on our doorstep readily accessible the territory s days as a cheap destination are similarly long gone the shopping s still good but don t expect the fabled knock down prices of the past and as for the rest food accommodation entertainment you ll by and large be paying top dollar but despite these changes or maybe because of them hong kong is a sexier and more rollicking ride than ever before its essence as a confluence of east and west continues to define its course but not in any cartoonish sense instead it has evolved into an established hybrid both reflective and independent of its progenitors an inimitable compelling amalgam of cool sophistication warm hospitality and vibrant energy the place just keeps raising its gripping game for a visitor with a few days to fill there s little to beat it stay your lodgings can make or break a trip so ensure the former with an astute selection you ll struggle to find a better choice than the island shangri la the pre eminent scion of a home grown group and the epitome of unpretentious refinement the typical benefits of a great hotel are superbly delivered large rooms lavish breakfasts premium facilities with the skyscraper surrounded pool deck a splendid highlight especially in a city known for having more of them than any other in the world but it s with the finer touches that the hotel really excels from the traditional welcome tea on arrival beautifully presented in an insulated tea caddy and the uber comfortable mattresses and linen developed by simmon s and frette specifically for shangri la to the day of the week inscribed carpets in the lifts and the l occitane and acqua di parma toiletries they amplify the accommodation to an indulgent celebration the hotel houses eight restaurants on site including the michelin starred summer palace but it s restaurant petrus that s perhaps the star attraction set on the 56 th floor in elegant conducive surroundings the ceiling frescoes and piano accompanied strings live large with breathtaking views over victoria harbour the place offers classical fine dining fine wining fare but with just enough of an edge to stir the imagination sample the green pea tart with yoghurt meringue and coriander for dessert island shangri la pacific place supreme court rd central hong kong 852 2877 3838 move taxis are plentiful and relatively affordable but it s often quicker and more convenient especially when crossing from island to mainland and vice versa to use hong kong s outstanding public transport system one of the most effective and user friendly worldwide encompassing buses trains trams and ferries the octopus card which you should definitely invest in on arrival is probably the world s leading fare collection and contactless smartcard payment system and the model upon which london s oyster card was based allows you to breeze on and off for the duration of your visit without worrying about buying individual tickets see hong kong is intense visually spectacular with a compact frame of sea city and mountain and densely constituted with its bustling population of enterprising people on the go there is no shortage of things to see and do in geography there are some resonating parallels with cape town victoria peak like table mountain offers a spectacular vantage point from which to view and contemplate the city and indeed the whole of hong kong island on the walks around its circumference it s accessible by foot for the fit and energetic or otherwise by tram the southern district like our southern peninsula is dotted with picturesque day tripping towns aberdeen stanley and repulse bay notably all easily accessible via the excellent public transport network aberdeen in particular is something unique historically the channel separating its settlements was home to a floating village of fisherfolk the boats remain a ragtag but impressive fleet numbering in the hundreds and bearing testimony to this heritage although fewer and fewer people still reside aboard permanently the area is also renowned for its cheap and cheerful fish ball noodles test your chopsticks technique on the rendition at nam kee noodle on main road the peak tram lower terminus garden road central hong kong 852 2522 0922 exchange square bus terminus ground floor exchange square 8 connaught place central bus 70 to aberdeen from aberdeen bus 73 to stanley via repulse bay nam kee noodle shop 1 3 g f 208 aberdeen main rd aberdeen 852 2552 2731 drink a dark passage a nondescript staircase and an unmarked door this is the low key entranceway to stockton one of hong kong s coolest bars a pre emptive measure maybe against intrusion by the roving bands of jack the lads from neighbouring lan kwai fong hong kong s notorious party district or other random arrivals if you re not in the know clearly you shouldn t be here named for hunter stockton thompson reporter writer reveller the place is inspired by literary themes and influences from its seasonal cocktail menu the latest being a dive into darwin s on the origin of species featuring drinks such as the berry picker to its eclectic collection of vintage furniture and decorations allusions to a private library or a reading room you get the sense that everything here has been well thought out and deeply considered it s a place of substance for people of substance there are intimate crevices and alcoves a thronging bar a secret cigar den known as the rake room a discerning selection of fine liquors a toilet with a two way mirror and a menu featuring unusual delicacies like duck scotch eggs and cauliflower fritters treat yourself to an exceptional old fashioned hit repeat and spend a rewarding evening at this superb atmospheric venue stockton 32 wyndham street central hong kong 852 2898 3788 eat you can get the best of pretty much anything you want in hong kong but it s always a good idea to eat local the speciality here is cantonese the style of chinese cuisine most internationally prevalent chow mein sweet and sour pork and dim sum being typical dishes there s a gaping chasm though between what you get at your local chinese and the finer exponents available in situ duddell s an eatery cum art gallery in the heart of central on the island gives you exactly that the finer if not finest exponents of the style but with a modern interpretation their dim sum is off the scale the scallop dumplings with caviar and asparagus good enough to break the gauge whilst their use of non traditional ingredients such as wagyu beef and ibérico pork exemplifies hong kong s flair and individuality other highlights include the a double boiled mushroom bamboo and cabbage soup shrimp spring rolls wrapped in rice sheets a vegetarian ensemble of asparagus mushrooms lily buds and black truffles and their signature chicken dish marinated air dried and then deep fried the best approach though might be to explore their unlimited weekend salon brunch with an option for free flow veuve go hungry and thirsty duddell s level 3 shanghai tang mansion 1 duddell street central 852 2525 9191 over the bay in kowloon you ll find the pinnacle of an unpretentious uniquely hong kongese speciality being served from a tiny humble outlet whilst the physical structure belies the presence of something special the constant queues giv...
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