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camino francés 2015 teresa walks in spain skip to content menu widgets on the camino francés 2015 teresa walks in spain scroll down welcome you can start with my first post link below from the first of august then when you want to go to the next post in chronological order scroll down the post until you see a rectangular box with an arrow and a title it will take you to the next post arrow right or previous post arrow left the second post is called walk this way after the first few the post titles include the numbers of the day of my walk on the camino until day 45 and my return home on the 9th of october start with my first post 1 august 2015 by clicking here author teresawalks posted on april 3 2016 october 2 2016 5 comments day 45 paris to home 47 803603 122 388036 author teresawalks posted on october 9 2015 2 comments from spain back to france all in one day 44 from departure taxi airport santiago airplane another airport madrid another airplane another airport orly a couple of trains an immense climb up stairs from underground to find myself on boulevard st michel by the seine remind me never ever to travel again without wheels on my luggage it s called luggage because you have to lug it but a two block walk and a very tiny lift brought me to a perfectly nice miniature paris hotel room in late afternoon i strolled out and found a spurious alas yellow directional arrow like those that guided me on the camino if it had been one street over on rue st jacques saint james santiago it wouldn t be spurious at all the french pilgrimage route to santiago traditionally began at notre dame cathedral on the île de la cité the oldest part of paris in the middle of the seine river i made a sketch from almost exactly this spot the last time i was in paris 2008 matisse had a studio halfway along on the right he made several paintings from his fifth floor vantage point i have visited paris maybe half a dozen times but never explored notre dame before this evening outside selfies segways accordion music inside stained glass tourists a bit of the crown of thorns it said so on the sign and as it happened the evening vesper service i stayed to listen it was mostly sung by a blue robed guy with a beautiful clear voice after i considered a quick meal at one of the restaurants near the river even sat down in one but changed my mind and walked instead to a place the front desk had recommended i had two of the best wines and the most satisfying dinner of my whole trip and in true camino style ended up chatting with a couple at the next table through much of my dinner shuttle to charles de gaulle airport tomorrow morning and an afternoon 10 5 hour flight home no time for much more of paris i really meant to get a crepe with lemon and sugar from one of the sidewalk vendors they smell so good tonight was just enough of paris to remind me what an appealing place it is hasta pronto paris à bientôt au revoir 48 849851 2 342572 author teresawalks posted on october 7 2015 7 comments day 41 or 43 hasta luego santiago today day 43 if i count from my departure rather than my first day on the camino was a good day for souvenir shopping cafe time and people watching my vantage point the window table at cafe flor was right on the camino half a km from the end the rain torrential yesterday was intermittent today two camino friends passed by walking around saying goodbye to santiago before the night train to madrid the first leg of their return home they came in when they saw me and we were glad of the chance to exchange full names email addresses and pictures do you see three swedes actually helen is swedish i m from ballard eini is finnish and only two of us live in stockholm in the evening i met my american spanish teacher s non english speaking friend pilar they used to teach spanish together here in santiago i was a little worried that i wouldn t be able to converse properly or at all and that i d make my teacher look bad but i managed twenty minutes of conversation nearly all in spanish it was undoubtedly full of mistakes but we communicated and had lots of laughs i walked back to my hotel by way of plaza del obradoiro the main cathedral square one last time i m all packed ready to head for the airport in the morning last friday it took me hours to walk around three sides of that airport tomorrow night the left bank of the seine 42 883850 8 542444 author teresawalks posted on october 6 2015 october 8 2022 5 comments day 40 santiago sights second to last day in santiago and a day to be grateful i never really needed a raincoat until i got here arriving pilgrims today looked very wet cold and bedraggled this was my view from the cathedral staircase of the plaza where all pilgrims arrive i spent part of the day in the cathedral museum i puzzled at these twelfth century granite carvings before concluding that someone decided that graphic representations of fleshly sins were needed to convey the proper lessons effectively i tried to imagine the stone carvers working out which of them would get that particular assignment and who would make angels instead or horses or this blissed out rock musician most of the stone on display was carved in the 12th century a few hundred years later they went for color mary seems to be saying no thanks guys i gave already religious armor and warrior armor are not always distinct this jeweled solid silver priest s capelet in the museum loudly announces who has the power in the cathedral itself this representation of saint james matamoros or moor slayer is on display crushing turbaned heads beneath his horse s hoofs it seems wrong to me that this is decorated with fresh flowers the ostensible purpose of all pilgrimages to santiago is to venerate the remains of the apostle james many other traditions have developed over the centuries one is to embrace the statue of james that stands above the altar today hundreds of people were standing in line they were waiting to climb up a flight of stairs embrace the statue and descend the steps on the other side you can see how the practice has worn those marble steps over the years another set of steps leads down below the altar to the sepulcher where the remains themselves are in an ornate silver casket that can be viewed through a window in a small room a person may kneel before the window at the risk of being stepped on by people taking pictures as they cross to the other side to ascend there was no line of people waiting to venerate the remains it s the statue that draws people odd humans being human a few more images of the botafumeiro the huge incense burner that is set swinging over the heads of the congregation during some services i m still enjoying the option of not walking and walking and walking all day but i will sight see a bit more tomorrow now that my camino social life has dissipated most of my pilgrim friends departed with the weekend wednesday holds a flight or two and a brief overnight on the left bank in paris before i fly home on thursday 42 883901 8 542664 author teresawalks posted on october 5 2015 october 8 2022 7 comments day 39 finisterre the end of the world today was a day trip by rented car with rick and anna to the atlantic coast rain was forecast for all day it drenched our drive but on the coast we had beautiful dramatic skies instead in fact i have had amazing weather luck not once in spain have i walked in more than a few drops of rain except to meet anna and rick this morning a few blocks away we went first to muxia first where there is a church of our lady of the boat that is said to have brought the body of james the apostle back to spain where he had proselytized after he was martyred in jerusalem also a lighthouse i t s a stormy bit of atlantic coast and this big pair of stone hunks my favorite modern sculpture in spain i ve seen many awful ones we continued south to fisterra or finisterre the end of the world thought for a long time to be the westernmost point of europe this isn t exactly the spot but it s close enough and then we shared the best meal i ve had in spain plus dessert and digestif liqueurs now i m sleepy as if i had walked all day 42 883914 8 542667 author teresawalks posted on october 4 2015 october 8 2022 8 comments day 38 rest day and a certificate or two the day started with a flurry of activity i dressed and went out into the dark headed for the pilgrim office as soon as it opened at 8 a m the only movement in santiago streets is that of the street cleaners a dog a lady taking out her trash and a few pilgrims at the office i presented my credenciál with stamps or sellos from each day of the camino to prove i had really walked it there wasn t much of an inquisition yes i did expect the spanish inquisition after consulting a kind of dictionary of names in latin the man behind desk no 4 issued my compostela in the name of theresiam lawson i also got a certificate of distance traveled i was back at the hotel by 9 to enjoy a protracted and tasty breakfast apart from sending out all of my dirty clothes for laundering i did little else all day except rest and take a bit of nourishment and meet more people four newly arrived pilgrims came into the hotel lobby in the afternoon they looked at me and said we know you they had stayed at the same hotel in st jean pied de port and we had chatted over breakfast the first day way back in august here on august 27 are luanne anne and peter in front of hotel itzalpea in st jean waiting for their taxi ride partway up the pyrenees little did we know what they d be missing and i would soon experience in the evening i went out to meet john and glenys one last time we had dinner at a hotel created in what had been a monastery another beautiful building to explore but tomorrow rainstorm predictions notwithstanding i expect to join anna and rick for a drive out to the coast an hour or so away or three days of walking for makkie and herbert next stop finisterre the end of the world 42 883899 8 542668 author teresawalks posted on october 3 2015 october 8 2022 leave a comment day 37 first evening in santiago after our walk in to santiago and excited greetings with people i d met along the way i went to my nice hotel real towels i collected the little bag of clean clothes i had sent from the start of my walk and the box of excess from my pack i had mailed from estella on day 9 i got cleaned up rested a little and headed out again it was my intention to stroll eat something quick not really a spanish concept locate the pilgrim office and arrive an hour early to get a seat for the 7 30 mass in the cathedral i did acquire some food para llevar to go at 6 it s too late for lunch and too early for dinner drinks and tapas can be found but i didn t want to loiter in a bar walking across the main square by the cathedral i encountered the danish ladies ulla and heidi why don t i have their picture i guess we are always busy talking when we meet they walked me to the pilgrim office where they had waited in line for two hours the day before to get their compostela certificates suddenly pedro was greeting me brandishing the cardboard tube containing his newly won compostela i started to introduce him to ulla as one of the guys with whom i had ridden horses up to cebreiro but with mock indignation he insisted no horse a pié on foot then with spanish and gestures he firmly indicated that i should get in line right then and there to get my certificate well okay the line seemed to be moving along and ulla kept me company for a while after she left i chatted with a guy from belgium who had done the camino on his bike as the line moved forward into the courtyard i looked back toward the street and saw my south african friends herbert and makkie of a few days ago but i was still some way from the front of the line at 7 o clock so i decided to leave for the mass in the huge cathedral a thousand or more people filled the pews sat on steps and leaned against stone pillars and walls i scanned the crowds as i circled the three main seating areas hoping that one of my new friends might make room for me it was only later that it struck me how astounding this was a little over a month ago i had come to spain knowing no one and yet here i was with the expectation that people who were strangers to me just days ago would care enough to save me a seat and it was so after i had circled nearly all of the crowd and resigned myself to standing for another hour i heard a hiss there was pedro sitting on a step he waved me under the rope that demarcated the stairs to the exit doors and then his son beckoned me across to a spot on the steps half behind an enormous stone pillar that supported the barrel vaults of the ceiling far above jonathan explained that no cameras could be used during the mass itself but i should prepare my camera phone for the spectacle to come afterwards he pointed out the enormous brass incense burner hanging from a metal support high up near the ceiling the famous botafumeiro most of the mass in spanish was lost on me but i enjoyed hearing a woman s clear singing voice fill the cathedral special mention was made of the numbers of pilgrims who had arrived that day and registered i hadn t yet their countries and where they had started the mass ended with handshakes with one s neighbors and peace be with you there were so many jubilant pilgrims smiling at one another i think i shook a dozen hands then the cellphone cameras came out eight men dressed in red grasped a thick rope extending to the structure from which the botafumeiro hangs after the censer was lit and given an initial push their coordinated efforts made it swing more and more higher and higher until it was swooping in a 65 meter arc over our heads it seemed to swing straight at me spewing its fragrant smoke it s said this tradition began in order to dispel the stench of sweaty dirty pilgrim bodies my lucky last minute position was ideal i plan to return to tour the cathedral but here s a taste of what s inside you can see the dark shape of the botafumeiro suspended from its long rope in front of all the gold as i walked home after post botafumeiro dinner with john and glenys and 8 or 10 other newly arrived peregrinos and peregrinas i heard two guys playing guitar at the edge of this plaza next to the cathedral at the end of this long tiring exciting day i felt that i was still waiting for the reality to sink in that i too had completed my camino 42 883895 8 542687 author teresawalks posted on october 3 2015 october 8 2022 5 comments day 37 santiago de compostela i did it walked in to town with rick and anna of halifax nova scotia and immediately saw déli and her friends from madrid and glenys awaiting her dear john and other friends from australia i was also greeted warmly by a woman i walked with a week ago who had told me all about the politics and the beauties of catalunya found my hotel and the clean clothes i had sent ahead from the start tired bu...
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