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desserts i couldn t finish once i was done eating the manager came by to tell me the history of prestonfield house and he also remarked on the box of sweets i was taking home i told him i couldn t possibly eat another bite but everything was divine he looked as pleased with this remark as if he had created the feast himself and everyone else i passed as i made my way to the front of the hotel was charming and pleasant and made me feel like i was someone famous and important the way they fell over themselves to wish me well of the three afternoon teas i think i liked prestonfield house the best it was elegant and cozy harrods was perhaps a little finer on the food but i just felt more comfortable at prestonfield house for one thing i wasn t ragged and sweating like i had been when i was walking in london and suffering a bum foot instead i had taken an uber to prestonfield house and i was perfectly put together though still with a bum foot the willow tea rooms was nice but not in the same class as harrods or prestonfield house it was more of your everyday afternoon tea whereas the other two promise special occasions i think prestonfield house felt like i could belong there where the georgian at harrods seemed more like a place you would go to be seen the only thing that would have made all three of these afternoon teas better would have been if you were there with me maybe next time entrance into prestonfield house a brown heilan coo placidly getting rained on teapot at prestonfield house strawberry pepper tart prestonfield sandwiches with the pineapple jackfruit one on the right another view of the rhubarb room so many glasses pineapple coconut ginger mousse ball pistachio macaron the peacock in a tree harrods matcha ball harrods apricot thyme tart harrods chandelier harrods chocolate mousse cake a view of edinburgh castle from willow tea rooms with an ugly lamp post with a seagull on it directly in front savory crackers at prestonfield house share this email a link to a friend opens in new window email share on facebook opens in new window facebook share on linkedin opens in new window linkedin share on x opens in new window x share on pinterest opens in new window pinterest like loading posted in writing in general tagged afternoon tea dessert edinburgh edinburgh castle harrods helian coo london peacock prestonfield house scotland tea leave a reply dispatch from edinburgh 4 islay and the whisky coast posted on july 14 2025 by jc reilly reply three years ago i went on a speyside whisky tour it was the first time i had ever tasted whisky and i was a total n00b about it but after the tour i realized that i liked whisky and could see drinking it on occasion especially on a cold dreary night that would remind me of scotland i realized too that i didn t like peated whisky because the smoky flavor reminded me too much of lapsang souchon tea which to my mind is an abomination in the tea world so i knew going on a tour to islay pronounced eye lah and the whisky coast would be problematic because all of the distilleries over there produce peated whiskies i was prepared not to like anything but that s not what happened fortunately we started our tour by driving west and a bit north through the trossachs and past loch lomond we stopped in callender which is little more than a high street but is known to be the gateway to the highlands since it is just south of the dividing line between the lowlands and the highlands i bought an airy loaf of cheddar jalapeño bread at mohr a local bakery for a snack but then we were off again the west highlands are are not nearly as dramatic as the eastern highlands but they are still quite beautiful and while i had traveled the roads through them before i was still glad to be able to see them again view from oban harbor norries fish and chips mmm we stopped for lunch in oban gateway to the isles which is a little sea resort town i ve been to before back when i went to the isle of mull i think anyway i went to nories for fish and chips and then walked along the streets to visit the oban chocolate company which i remembered from the last time i was in oban it was packed with people getting coffees and hot chocolates and candy bars i picked out a few truffles including a dark passionfruit crème a chili chuffle a ginger ganache cup a whisky truffle and a toffee orange truffle which i saved for later then i walked to the harbor and took some pictures there were people playing with their dogs on the beach but it was rather cold to my mind and i wondered what is it about dogs that they love to go into water especially freezing water kilmartin grave stone the bus picked us back up and then we continued on to kilmartin glen to look at some standing stones and to take a rather long walk to see some cairns somehow i don t have any pictures of this i m not sure why it s not like me maybe something happened with the camera but they were fine as far as standing stones go they were sort of in the middle of a field so i had to be careful of sheep pellets but i enjoyed the walk even though my foot was hurting still i was glad to get back on the bus later we stopped at a little church in kilmartin with gravestones from the 1300s 1500s whose carvings were faint now but still cool and then we headed down to kennacraig so we could board the ferry it was a long ferry ride and damp so damp maybe two hours but as always i remained outside to take in the air hoping to see some whales or dolphins i saw neither when we arrived in bowmore i was ready to get to our residence it turned out to be a kind of cottage attached to the bowmore distillery est 1779 called the old bakery everyone else i didn t get their names the norwegians the brazillian the the new yorkers the very friendly japanese couple and the father and son from maine gathered in the dining room to chat after dinner but i was ready to get into bed even though it was pretty early still i went over to the co op to get some cheese and crackers for dinner since i hadn t made any dinner reservations and a two liter of coke zero to make sure i got my caffeine over the next few days then i settled in for the night enjoying my black out curtains which i don t have at my place in edinburgh and i slept well even though i was in a tiny twin bed a bowmore dram bourbon cask after breakfast the next day we all walked over to the bowmore distillery for our tour i knew what to expect because i d been to distilleries before obviously but it was interesting because we actually got to see the barley on the malting floor where the barley begins to germinate that was new to me the tour guide encouraged us to touch it and he didn t seem to mind walking on the barley which i did not do because hello shoes aren t clean he took us to see the wash backs the mash tun and the stills and then to a room where the casks were stored where we enjoyed a taste of whiskies we tried the 2012 bourbon cask whisky first with a 53 5 alcohol content and it was dark amber and pretty peaty next we tried the 2010 oloroso sherry cask with a 54 6 alcohol content then we went into the bar where they gave us another whisky although i didn t see the bottle as well as pairing chocolate and a tiny dram of bowmore 18 year to take with us kilchoman spirit draff cart our next distillery was kilchoman which has only been in operation for 20 years because the proprietor just apparently decided he was going to start a distillery we got to see the same kind of operation but it was cool that the proprietor himself gave us the tour and we had whisky tastings at various stops throughout we even had a nosing glass on a lanyard to drink from which was very convenient one of the things we got to try was spirit that is un aged liquor right from the still and it was delicious super sweet basically it was alcoholic sugar water 63 5 it s the aging that makes it whisky but it was definitely interesting to drink and one of the things we learned there is that nothing goes to waste after the barley is used for the whisky it s still usable it still has proteins and nutrition so there s a conveyor belt which moves the barley into a large cart and then the barley called draff is sold as animal feed i don t believe they charge a lot for the draff in a way it s a chance for the distillery to give back to the farmers who live on islay and who help raise the barley the johnny walker dude after kilchoman we went to caol ila pronounced cull ee lah on the east coast of islay owned by johnny walker like cardhu in moray scotland is a johnny walker distillery which was just a whisky stop i just got a diet coke because after five or six drams i was pretty pickled already the driver robbie was very kind and because i was walking with my cane he said he d meet us down below in the disabled parking area to get us after our visit to the distillery everyone except the brazillian met up there apparently he hadn t heard that we were going to meet there we saw him walking on the long path upward so robbie said we ll just get him at the top of the path but in the interim the brazillian thought i ll go down and meet them so we were up at the top waiting for him and he was down at the bottom waiting for us so we drove back down to the bottom but the brazilian walked back up to the top it was some keystone cops hilarity happening we must have done this dance a couple more times and i said to the tour group we d lost him to the angel s share which made everyone laugh the angel s share is how much whisky evaporates each year that a whisky is in the cask finally robbie walked down by himself and got the brazilian it was pretty funny this back and forthing although i suppose it loses something in the translation then we went to bunnahabhain pronounced bunna hay ven for a whisky tasting these were unpeated whiskies 2022 abhain araig 2012 olorosso bott and something that looks like toiteach a dila it s handwritten not very clearly although the 46 3 notation was clear and they were very nice i took a taste but i didn t drink them up because i would have collapsed on the floor i wanted to buy a bottle for c but then i remembered two things 1 he wanted a peated whisky and 2 how the hell would i get a bottle home anyway i didn t buy one and they were crazy expensive anyway like 79 for a tiny bottle seriously they look like boobs jura island across from the distillery was the isolated island of jura only 300 inhabitants which in my mind looked like a couple of boobs what can i say maybe i m a 12 year old boy instead of mountains it was a lovely day especially compared to the day before which was so wet and dreich i found myself after the tasting just looking out on the water and the beach and enjoying the fresh sea air kildalton high cross the next day we hit up three more distilleries but before we did that we stopped at the kildalton high cross which was carved in the 700 s and according to the sign is one of the finest and most complete early christian crosses in scotland it s a tall celtic cross maybe twice as tall as a person and it s next to the roofless ruins of a church it s beautiful and the carvings are in great shape not worn smooth at all there was a little donation box asking for money so i dropped in a pound and a sign saying to leave the gate shut to keep out the sheep but obviously someone had left it open recently due to all the fresh sheep pellets in the grass after that little diversion we were off to ardbeg distillery on the south coast of islay our tour guide was this snarky gen z er who was very knowledgeable about the whisky process and her name was jura after the island taking guests on tours was her summer job she told me as she was attending a university on the mainland i think the whisky was good but i thought kilchoman was better there was a walk to some old ruins but my foot was killing me so i just sat in the peaty grass for a while and took a little walk towards the cliffs next door was lagavulin distillery and we stopped in for a bar visit i was parched and got both a sparkling water and a pink fancy passionfruit whisky cocktail that was delicious but maybe not worth 8 the norwegian men got a flight to share it was like a top tier flight because it wound up being over 120 and they didn t blink an eye granted they got some snacks too and cocktails for their wives but still it was an impressive amount of money to drop for five drams of whisky laphroaig sea sign it s big so ships delivering barley can see it in the mist the last stop was laphroaig pronounced la froyg the new yorkers were looking especially forward to going there as it s the husband s favorite whisky brand laphroaig began in 1815 when the sons of a farmer decided to make whisky on the campbell estate what was interesting was that one of the brothers emigrated to australia and the other brother drowned in a vat of burnt ale i m not sure how you burn ale but that s what the sign said his son inherited the distillery at age 11 but since he was underage the manager of the lagavulin distillery ran it but when the son had grown he ran it until his death thus was the early history of laphroaig but another cool fact about the whisky was that during american prohibition the feds were persuaded that laphroaig was medicinal so people could totally buy it and drink it the laphroaig flagship whisky the one to try after our tour the guide let us choose 3 among 7 different whiskies to try my choices included the 10 year cask strength the 10 year sherry oak finish and the quintessential 10 year aged in ex bourbon barrels the laphroaig flagship whisky the regular 10 year was pretty good i didn t care for the sherry finish which is surprising since i usually appreciate the sweetness of sherry cask whiskies islay is lovely like all of scotland but there s not much here besides sheep and distilleries i was glad i went and glad i could try so many different drams but i think i was a little disappointed overall i really had hoped that somehow stewart the tour guide on the speyside trail a couple of years ago could have been our guide this time that would have been magic he really enjoyed whisky and i didn t get the feeling that robbie cared one way or the other i also felt like for robbie this was just a tour whereas for stewart whisky was a passion and making people love whisky was also a passion but you can t pick your tour guides and it was nice to see a new part of scotland and it was nice to find out that peated whiskies are good too i guess they are an acquired taste which i acquired the kilmartin church kilmartin church kildalton church i really like the composition here kilmartin church kildalton church old gravestones at kilmartin church lagavulin distillery more old graves at kilmartin more graves at kilmartin i don t know why i took so many pics of them these really old graves from the 1300s were in a protected shed kildalton church laphroaig cask strength it was pretty strong on...
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