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description= He drank from a different fountain;
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y writing a book about the role of retreat in the lives of various philosophers writers and artists share this share on facebook opens in new window facebook share on x opens in new window x email a link to a friend opens in new window email print opens in new window print more share on reddit opens in new window reddit share on linkedin opens in new window linkedin like loading this entry was posted in a time to keep silence and tagged a time to keep silence guy stagg patrick leigh fermor slightly foxed on november 9 2024 by proverbs6to10 staying at the king s transylvanian home why charles loves romania 1 reply the fortified church in viscri near the king s estate getty we hit downtown zalánpatak at rush hour and it was gridlocked true you get used to livestock on romanian roads the 30 minute gravel zig zag from the nearest main road had brought us up against stray dogs horses and carts and free range pigs a shepherd huddled near the roadside in a sheepskin poncho crook in one hand iphone in the other but it s when you re sitting immobile on a village street with a herd of cows pushing past on either side when you feel the vehicle rock as bovine flank thwacks against the car door that you start to grasp why king charles iii might have a bit of a soft spot for the place by richard bratby first published in the spectator you start to grasp why king charles iii might have a bit of a soft spot for the place i mean it d take a very determined paparazzo to make it this far and they d still have to contend with the language charles s love for this hungarian speaking region of transylvania is no great secret fang club inside the dusty dracula village where king charles has been secretly holidaying for 25 years blurted the sun the tone of surprise like the reference to dracula seems obligatory but if you re a briton visiting romania and particularly if like me you re the kind who longs to vanish inside the books of miklos banffy or patrick leigh fermor you soon discover that his majesty is one step ahead of you his portrait hangs in a restaurant in sighisoara is he on your banknotes yet asks an uber driver in bucharest in 2022 we d stayed unwittingly at another of hm s romanian pads a guest house in the nearby village of miclosoara and had been regaled with under the counter palinka and tales of the latest royal visit where you re sitting i roasted a mangalica hog for him last may said the young man who runs the place on behalf of count kálnoky who manages the king s transylvanian properties do you think he ll be able to come again now he is king he asked anxiously by all accounts the answer has been yes but the king s retreat at zalánpatak population 110 is open to paying guests regardless at least when he s not in residence once you ve juddered along that gravel road crawled past the straggle of pastel coloured cottages and waited for the cows to go home it s the last homestead on your left a big wooden gate with an iron bell pull the road continues over the hills and the booking email from the count s agent urges you not to drive it even if google maps says so a warning that anyone familiar with romanian country roads will take very seriously indeed within the gate there s an orchard and a cluster of wooden framed cottages there are no signs no reception desk just a blue washed farmhouse with a stone fireplace and the prince of wales s feathers painted on the gable the king s cottage is at the top of a grassy courtyard but our room was further down the hill described slightly disarmingly as the serf s house oh well we re both journos we ve been called worse the door frames had been padded with leather 19th century transylvanian farmhands presumably being quite a bit shorter than your typical 21st century monarch still what joy after a long journey and there s no quick route to zalánpatak to find an electric kettle tea cups and real british tea bags none of those yellow lipton abominations for hm he knows how to make his subjects feel at home guests dine together boar goulash and plum brandy one an american lady who d stumbled across the place on a hotel booking website was astonished by how basic it all was unfamiliar with the habits of the british aristocracy or the traditions of gordonstoun she d expected that a royal residence must by its nature be palatial but woodsmoke and palinka take the edge off most things and the count s people can organise all sorts of rural activities mostly involving horses though they do have a hot tub ask in advance it s wood fired and takes a while to warm up as with any homestay there s a fascination in nosing about and trying to piece together the owner s private tastes and foibles that watercolour it isn t one of his is it did hm choose the board games in the living room articulate looked quite well used a big well worn armchair faces a dormer window with a view over the valley it seemed presumptuous to sit in it and apparently only one person ever has the king likes to read there and then well that s it really the isolation is the whole point there s no television and only patchy internet the trade off is silence real silence of the kind almost unobtainable in the uk with not a single motor vehicle audible and only the jangle of cowbells to break the quiet for an urbanite even one with an impossibly romantic view of old europe it was slightly disconcerting late at night the cottage door rattled in the breeze transylvanians don t buy the fictionalised bram stoker version of their home that obsesses english speaking visitors though that hadn t prevented them from nailing a crucifix just above the bed wolves though and bears we re in the foothills of the carpathians the place is teeming with predators we d seen two bears on the drive over each the size of a st bernard and staring at the passing cars with the assurance that comes from being europe s top carnivore locals were taking selfies with the smaller bear which seemed ill advised but in the midnight stillness at zalánpatak i did start to wonder just how solid the wooden doors really were could we be certain that there wasn t any honey in the room what if the bears simply wanted a decent cup of builders tea best not to overthink it the locals have lived with the local fauna for centuries and that palinka braces a fellow marvellously but in a spot like this a little enchantment goes a very long way you can understand why a man who has spent his whole life in the public gaze would want to drink deeply from that slow healing silence we on the other hand had options that aren t open to a monarch craving urban civilisation we headed for the ramada in sibiu cafés to try bookshops and galleries to browse and at the end of each day crisp sheets satellite tv and sterile faceless blissful anonymity that s a luxury that our king god bless him can never enjoy share this share on facebook opens in new window facebook share on x opens in new window x email a link to a friend opens in new window email print opens in new window print more share on reddit opens in new window reddit share on linkedin opens in new window linkedin like loading this entry was posted in between the woods and the water romania and tagged miklos banffy romania viscri on october 26 2024 by proverbs6to10 the annual william stanley moss awards 2024 and update 2 replies recipents of the annual william stanley moss awards rethymno crete 2024 summer in england such as it was this year is well and truly over we have misty and quite cold mornings with the grass soaked full with dew i have been very busy for the last couple of months and now have some time to get back to the blog you will recall that in june i asked for donations to support the continuation of the annual william stanley moss awards which is the brainchild of billy s daughter gabriella bullock many of you were generous enough to donate and gabriella is very grateful perhaps i could ask for one more push from those who were unable to give at the time every few pounds will help you can make a donation via paypal by following this link gabriella and hugh have recently returned from crete after this year s awards she wrote to me with a report and a message of thanks you you all dear tom please forgive the delay in writing to you i m sorry it has taken rather too long the material i was awaiting from crete has now arrived so here we go firstly i want to say how dumbfounded i am that of the many truly deserving causes you could have chosen to ask your readers across the world to support you have chosen the really rather meagre prizes that we set up in my father s name it is such an unexpected incredible honour and such an overwhelmingly wonderful feeling to have your huge endorsement of my endeavour i am lost for words but tom i hardly know how to put this your website has been such a glorious thing dedicated to paddy and in his lifetime it was called the greatest living englishman i ll never forget telling him about this and how covered he was in surprise and pleasure and modest confusion you can t re dedicate it it is his and should be his always he s way too special to share his website with anyone let alone my father he is the legend the idea for the kidnap was all his and what about the rest of his extraordinary life enough that he now shares a photograph on the staircase of the special forces club with my father but this it mustn t happen please trust me they may not say so but i m sure his legions of devotees among your readers feel the same however generous they may be when we decided to support the university of crete it was in the hope of reaching out to the whole of crete and i do like to think that the idea would have had paddy s blessing two prizes are awarded annually to students of the faculty of philosophy at the university of crete one is awarded by the department of philology and one by the department of history and archaeology it is all tirelessly overseen by the tutors and heads of the departments involved i hadn t foreseen this but i can only say that these prizes are just as much a gift to me as to the students they have given a very special dimension to my life small as they are they bring a wonderful connection to a wonderful university world class and every year i am struck by the prize winners always so impressive and so delightful and i am grateful for the unique opportunity i have to meet them i love the way that although the prizes are such a reminder of what happened in long past wartime they are all about the future this year s prize giving took place earlier this month in rethymno as well as the prize winners their families and friends and their tutors the dean of the faculty and the heads of department were there and gave memorable speeches i too gave a short speech which of course centred around you your generosity and your extraordinary gesture then came the prize giving itself this year there were three prize winners 1 aikaterini yakimtsouki magaraki ma student in philology ma in classical studies the title of her dissertation was medicine as a rival to philosophy 2 antonios digalakis phd candidate in history and archaeology phd thesis entitled painting in naturale the ionian islands in mid 17th mid 18th century he was awarded the prize for the thesis chapter entitled cretan painters on the ionian islands 3 minas chouvardas postgraduate student in history and archaeology ma in ancient history title of ma dissertation the towns and small communities of the aegean islands and their relationship to athenian hegemony he was awarded the prize for an extensive chapter entitled island hegemonic aspirations and the prehistory of athenian imperialism in the aegean these last two shared the department of history and archaeology prize then each of the prize winners gave a speech thoughtful and philosophical in true cretan fashion whether long or short in english or in greek antonios also made the point that the prize money would enable him to visit art works and consult art books especially in italy aikaterini has sent the text of her speech i am honoured to be the recipient of the william stanley moss award and i would like to thank the committee my professors for their support in times of uncertainty and instability my precious friends and my family i would also like to thank mrs bullock for offering young people an incentive in our academic and professional journey i hope that i will continue to explore the perplexity of the greco roman antiquity focusing on scientific thought of the time and on the interaction of the greeks and romans with foreign cultures but what matters most is that i follow my dreams with integrity and this is the legacy that major stanley moss left thank you with the ceremony over we set off for a wonderful evening and meal together at a restaurant on the sea front everyone eager to learn more and of course i was besieged with questions about you and your website and many glasses were raised what can i say thank you with love gabriella share this share on facebook opens in new window facebook share on x opens in new window x email a link to a friend opens in new window email print opens in new window print more share on reddit opens in new window reddit share on linkedin opens in new window linkedin like loading this entry was posted in ill met by moonlight and tagged crete gabriella bullock william stanley moss on september 15 2024 by proverbs6to10 hibernian idyll oliver o hanlon on patrick leigh fermor in waterford 1 reply patrick leigh fermor lismore castle and its surroundings made a lasting impression on the travel writer photograph hulton archive getty images one for the irish in us the author dervla murphy is not the only travel writer closely associated with lismore in waterford another well known member of that club linked to the town is the english writer patrick leigh fermor who first visited in 1956 by oliver o hanlon first published in the irish times lismore castle complete with what fermor described as its rapunzel tower and its surroundings made a lasting impression on the writer who is best remembered for his tales of travel to far off lands his first great adventure led him on a year long walk from rotterdam to istanbul at age 18 fermor was a friend of lismore castle s owners andrew cavendish and his wife deborah who had the titles of duke and duchess of devonshire she was the youngest of the six mitford sisters and was known to her friends as debo she met fermor known as paddy at a party in 1940 he was a 25 year old intelligence officer and she was 20 engaged to an army officer they met again at parties in london in the 1950s and began corresponding in 1954 around 600 of their letters survive some have made their way into edited books shining a light on their friendship they also provide an insight into their impressions of lismore and ireland generally during the second half of the 20th century writing in may 1956 after his first visit fermor than...
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