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ssibly could i gave it my best shot lingering over oysters sashimi lobster tagliatelle grilled lobster and tenderloin our selections from a lavish barbeque buffet that had to be seen to be believed before eventually reluctantly departing the scene with both my appetite and spirits sated that night i slept the king sized sleep of the utterly contented we cushioned our departure with a few days exploring the desert overnighting on platforms amongst the dunes the spectacular wadi shab for a kloofing adventure and muscat proper to which the resort gave us an easy springboard and which further elevated the country in my esteem oman and indeed barr al jissah may seem obscure to most south africans but sometimes you discover the greatest prizes in the most unthought of places this is one of those finds salaam alaikum the essentials language arabic is oman s official language although english is widely spoken currency the omani rial omr is the national currency nominally one of the most valuable in the world it trades at roughly zar40 to the omr visas these can be procured online at http www evisa rop gov om nbsp note that visas for visits exceeding ten days are exponentially more expensive getting there emirates operates regular flights to dubai from which multiple daily connections to muscat are available clothing women should endeavour to dress with shoulders and knees covered in public spaces getting around hiring a car and making use of the excellent road network is a cost effective hassle free option in a country where petrol is almost as cheap as water as it appeared share this email a link to a friend opens in new window email share on facebook opens in new window facebook share on x opens in new window x like loading 1 comment posted in uncategorized tagged barr al jissah oman shangri la travel wadi shab scottish for the weekend posted on 15 november 2021 by patrick 1 comment first published in the sunday times on 14 november 2021 if there s a country out there with more character than scotland then it exists only in an alternate universe in our world the real world the scots take this cake and its crumbs as well having cultivated a tapestry of rich traditions and endearing idiosyncrasies that are beyond beating from their dress and their food and drink to their language and accents and much in between if you re not scottish and have no scottish connections fear not this is a hospitable place where anyone who ll embrace their customs as some friends and i did with the passion and gusto of pure bred locals can get to be satisfyingly scots for a little while at least it was february 2020 right before lockdown and we set out with a basic three point plan to revel in as much rugby whisky and scottish cuisine as we responsibly could as it turns out i went somewhat overboard eating so much haggis in particular that i thought i might turn into the wild beast from whence it comes or at least from whence gullible americans think it comes actually the stuff is made from sheep s heart liver and lungs known as pluck and is delicious it s traditionally eaten with neeps and tatties turnips and potatoes but is increasingly deployed in more creative ways combined with black pudding in sausages a speciality of stornoway in the hebrides as stuffing in chicken balmoral doing a gourmet turn again with its black pudding partner in a dirty apple charlotte outstanding and at ease on the wrong side of the tracks in a chippy which typically refers to a fish supper fish and chips but also to anything deep fried and served with chips haggis included we were pleasantly surprised by the vegetarian haggis served to us at amber in edinburgh the highlight of its taste of scotland sample menu this amidst stiff competition the meal featured cullen skink a soup of haddock potatoes and leek a trio of the local salmon and fillet of aberdeen angus a prime cut from the world famous scottish breed the list of scotch delicacies is in fact so long and varied that it s a wonder these laddies can fit into their kilts the rugby episode of our trip required us to fit into ours so luckily it was scheduled first up before we d gorge ourselves with haggis et al i ve attended all manner of rugby matches domestically and my fair share abroad yet they all paled in comparison to the simmering high voltage atmosphere of scotland versus england at murrayfield the world s oldest rugby rivalry on our visit as it always does trod a fine line between respect and animosity we joined a legion of scots for the build up at a nearby pub before disgorging into the streets for the procession to the stadium a tartan army in high spirits our little platoon was fortified en route by a specially arranged flask of johnnie blue king george v what a dram for the occasion the complex arrangement of silky smoke fruits and honey serving up a brilliant rendition of the national drink we arrived ready in full voice belting out flower of scotland with the best of them following proud edward s army with the unscripted but obligatory if you re to be a true scot wankers the game itself was marred by atrocious weather and an unhappy result but this was of no great consequence we d been through a gold plated rite of passage and had been welcomed into a brotherhood it was an experience to treasure the next day we began our pilgrimage to the highlands looking to appreciate if you ll excuse the euphemism the country s finest creation in its birthplace the speyside region broadly the valley of the spey river between aberdeen and inverness is a whisky wonderland you couldn t toss a caber without hitting a distillery we d wound our way north by train travelling through dundee a picturesque richly historic city poised on the banks of the firth of tay a massive estuary emptying into the north sea regretfully not having the time to stop and take its full measure the journey took us to craigellachie craig ella kee where we d decided to spend the night so we could visit the eponymous legendary old school distillery and to lodge at its renowned hotel i think of the highlands as scotland proper the stuff reminiscent of braveheart and highlander a rugged countryside replete with rivers and lochs and peaks and colourful characters with broad accents at a quaint pub the fiddichside inn on the fringes of the town we got to know one such chap and his five unruly but adorable hunting dogs who took over the place without anyone batting an eyelid that s pretty much the style of things over there it was simply marvellous craigellachie s whiskies are distinguished by their kiln derived sulphury notes with variations of sulphur fruit and wax apparent in most expressions it is probably the most distinctive and easily recognisable of the speyside whiskies so worth singling and seeking out on that basis alone we were privileged to sample the standard bearing 13yo and the rioja cask from the aptly named exceptional cask series whilst standing on the banks of the spey drawing our water directly from the river like i imagined the locals would have done in earlier days our home for the night was the craigellachie hotel famous in whisky circles for its vast collection of the beverage but appealing regardless as a quintessential representation of a scottish country hotel dishing up friendly service ultra comfortable accommodation wholesome and hearty fare i e more haggis and an incomparable setting including a view over the spey onto the weirdly wonderful subterranean macallan distillery the hospitality in the highlands did not disappoint not here and not anywhere else we completed our brief sojourn in craigellachie the next day with a scottish breakfast inclusive of all the trimmings and after a polite interval with a tasting of the distillery s 31yo a giant of quiet intensity that had won the world whisky awards best single malt title in 2017 a special treat i left wistfully with the sense of having tapped into a vein of deep authenticity that seems increasingly rare in today s world of big brands with tall stories our final stop heading back south for our return home was aberfeldy known as the gateway to the highlands the route threaded us through some prime landscape studded with what is known in scotland as munros peaks of over 3000 feet local enthusiasts participate in munro bagging i e summiting as many of the 282 total as possible we didn t have the space in this particular trip to indulge but i made a mental note to bag at least one in the future to further entrench my scottish credentials and just for the sheer joy of it aberfeldy distillery should be a priority destination for any whisky tourist given its proximity to the major centres and the sheer range of the distillery which also serves as the dewar s brand home from hot toddies alongside the burn and the blending of our own expressions to the distillery and museum tour and the premium tastings in the dunnage warehouse it was one of the fullest most interesting whisky excursions that i ve ever experienced i m a longstanding dewar s fan as is my father and as was my grandmother so this felt like the culmination of three generations enthusiasm the tastings were nothing short of exceptional a towering 40yo and a 1999 single cask in particular both aberfeldy s but my highlight was the straightforward comparison of two 12yo dewar s a demonstration of the specific marrying process that sets dewar s apart from most other blended whiskies the dewar s blends are double aged basically left to settle and harmonise in oak casks for about six months after blending it sounds great the idea has always resonated in an abstract sense but to tangibly experience the difference we tasted against a single aged version that is commercially unavailable proved the simple genius of the technique a trip can be just a trip or much more rewarding and meaningful it can be a total immersion into a culture and way of life and it doesn t take much to make the difference just a bit of planning being open to the experience and in a place as welcoming as scotland the renting of a kilt slàinte mhath as it appeared p1 as it appeared p2 share this email a link to a friend opens in new window email share on facebook opens in new window facebook share on x opens in new window x like loading 1 comment posted in uncategorized tagged aberfeldy craigellachie dewars haggis rugby scotland whisky don t forget about the blends posted on 23 november 2020 by patrick leave a comment overlooked and underesteemed a strange curse of popularity first published in whisky magazine south africa november 2020 if you re a whisky drinker it s likely that the first and most recurring choice you ve had to make on your journey is that between blend and single malt there are other styles of whisky of course single pot stills bourbon and grains to name a few but here in south africa and in most places these are the two that predominate and of the two blends are the popular favourites massively outweighing single malts there s no little irony then in pleading their case the reality though is that whilst blends may dominate the box office single malts are the indie darlings garnering the lion s share of critical acclaim the romance of whisky its bucolic provenance colourful history and crafted production is largely essential in single malts whiskies like aberlour s a bunadh epitomise the appeal of the style forged in distinct numbered batches in the heart of speyside in scotland perhaps the most renowned whisky region replicated from an inadvertently discovered bottle dating back to 1898 and delivering deep rich impeccable sherry cask flavours but with enough effervescence on the finish at least in the batch 56 currently in market to play short of the line where intense lapses into overpowering this is an outstanding whisky in all respects with serious interest in whisky escalating in recent years and with the proliferation of compelling specimens like the a bunadh the ballooning population of aficionados has increasingly been opting for single malts their potential long either ignored or underemployed is progressively being realised recognised and appreciated to the extent that the relative spend on single malts compared to blends is about three fold higher now than it was twenty years ago a staggering shift single malts are a hot commodity blends on the other hand owe their comparative scale in general to a substantial cost advantage and to flavour profiles that tend to be light and accessible rather than to any superior merit they re by and large cheap and easy to drink many blends if one was to be unkind could be described as bland fodder for the undiscerning masses its lesser exponents have somewhat tainted the style with the result that it s become perceived often unconsciously as uninspiring and second best this is the backdrop against which you might find yourself unwittingly making your choices but if you were to buy into and consistently act on these perceptions in isolation you d be selling your whisky wonderment to be poetic about it woefully short it s always worth re examining assumptions especially those that lead to ingrained automatic and detrimental prejudices a blended whisky is constituted from a variety of single malts made from malted barley in a copper pot still mixed with grain whisky made from corn or wheat in a column still the grain habitually maligned as a diluting filler in fact introduces a few elements of potential extra value a particular mouthfeel typically an oiliness its own specific flavours and a distinct dynamic that changes how the malt flavours present themselves i e much as men behave differently around women so does malt in the company of grain the challenge lies in combining the selection and proportions of these various components into a whisky that s more than the sum of its parts the process known as blending get it wrong and it s forgettable get it right and it can be something awe inspiringly special something on which you wouldn t want to miss out one such whisky is johnnie walker blue label a replete demonstration of the best possibilities of the style oaky spicy peaty and sweet with an array of fruits this whisky has drawn from an all encompassing palette of flavours and somehow melded them into a harmonious coherent and delicious whole notably it s one of the first high profile bottlings of a multi vintage whisky merging liquids of substantially different ages whilst this is looked upon cynically in this no age statement era johnnie blue is a well intentioned trail blazing execution of the technique achieving a real indisputable synergy another blend worth singling out is jameson the consistently fastest growing whiskey it s irish hence the spelling with single pot still playing the malt role of the past twenty years the standard bottling is a marvel but an upgrade gets you the ridiculously quaffable select reserve a denser version with an injection of dark fruit flavours per...
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