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day in santiago and a day to be grateful i never really needed a raincoat until i got here arriving pilgrims today looked very wet cold and bedraggled this was my view from the cathedral staircase of the plaza where all pilgrims arrive i spent part of the day in the cathedral museum i puzzled at these twelfth century granite carvings before concluding that someone decided that graphic representations of fleshly sins were needed to convey the proper lessons effectively i tried to imagine the stone carvers working out which of them would get that particular assignment and who would make angels instead or horses or this blissed out rock musician most of the stone on display was carved in the 12th century a few hundred years later they went for color mary seems to be saying no thanks guys i gave already religious armor and warrior armor are not always distinct this jeweled solid silver priest s capelet in the museum loudly announces who has the power in the cathedral itself this representation of saint james matamoros or moor slayer is on display crushing turbaned heads beneath his horse s hoofs it seems wrong to me that this is decorated with fresh flowers the ostensible purpose of all pilgrimages to santiago is to venerate the remains of the apostle james many other traditions have developed over the centuries one is to embrace the statue of james that stands above the altar today hundreds of people were standing in line they were waiting to climb up a flight of stairs embrace the statue and descend the steps on the other side you can see how the practice has worn those marble steps over the years another set of steps leads down below the altar to the sepulcher where the remains themselves are in an ornate silver casket that can be viewed through a window in a small room a person may kneel before the window at the risk of being stepped on by people taking pictures as they cross to the other side to ascend there was no line of people waiting to venerate the remains it s the statue that draws people odd humans being human a few more images of the botafumeiro the huge incense burner that is set swinging over the heads of the congregation during some services i m still enjoying the option of not walking and walking and walking all day but i will sight see a bit more tomorrow now that my camino social life has dissipated most of my pilgrim friends departed with the weekend wednesday holds a flight or two and a brief overnight on the left bank in paris before i fly home on thursday 42 883901 8 542664 author teresawalks posted on october 5 2015 october 8 2022 7 comments day 39 finisterre the end of the world today was a day trip by rented car with rick and anna to the atlantic coast rain was forecast for all day it drenched our drive but on the coast we had beautiful dramatic skies instead in fact i have had amazing weather luck not once in spain have i walked in more than a few drops of rain except to meet anna and rick this morning a few blocks away we went first to muxia first where there is a church of our lady of the boat that is said to have brought the body of james the apostle back to spain where he had proselytized after he was martyred in jerusalem also a lighthouse i t s a stormy bit of atlantic coast and this big pair of stone hunks my favorite modern sculpture in spain i ve seen many awful ones we continued south to fisterra or finisterre the end of the world thought for a long time to be the westernmost point of europe this isn t exactly the spot but it s close enough and then we shared the best meal i ve had in spain plus dessert and digestif liqueurs now i m sleepy as if i had walked all day 42 883914 8 542667 author teresawalks posted on october 4 2015 october 8 2022 8 comments day 38 rest day and a certificate or two the day started with a flurry of activity i dressed and went out into the dark headed for the pilgrim office as soon as it opened at 8 a m the only movement in santiago streets is that of the street cleaners a dog a lady taking out her trash and a few pilgrims at the office i presented my credenciál with stamps or sellos from each day of the camino to prove i had really walked it there wasn t much of an inquisition yes i did expect the spanish inquisition after consulting a kind of dictionary of names in latin the man behind desk no 4 issued my compostela in the name of theresiam lawson i also got a certificate of distance traveled i was back at the hotel by 9 to enjoy a protracted and tasty breakfast apart from sending out all of my dirty clothes for laundering i did little else all day except rest and take a bit of nourishment and meet more people four newly arrived pilgrims came into the hotel lobby in the afternoon they looked at me and said we know you they had stayed at the same hotel in st jean pied de port and we had chatted over breakfast the first day way back in august here on august 27 are luanne anne and peter in front of hotel itzalpea in st jean waiting for their taxi ride partway up the pyrenees little did we know what they d be missing and i would soon experience in the evening i went out to meet john and glenys one last time we had dinner at a hotel created in what had been a monastery another beautiful building to explore but tomorrow rainstorm predictions notwithstanding i expect to join anna and rick for a drive out to the coast an hour or so away or three days of walking for makkie and herbert next stop finisterre the end of the world 42 883899 8 542668 author teresawalks posted on october 3 2015 october 8 2022 leave a comment day 37 first evening in santiago after our walk in to santiago and excited greetings with people i d met along the way i went to my nice hotel real towels i collected the little bag of clean clothes i had sent from the start of my walk and the box of excess from my pack i had mailed from estella on day 9 i got cleaned up rested a little and headed out again it was my intention to stroll eat something quick not really a spanish concept locate the pilgrim office and arrive an hour early to get a seat for the 7 30 mass in the cathedral i did acquire some food para llevar to go at 6 it s too late for lunch and too early for dinner drinks and tapas can be found but i didn t want to loiter in a bar walking across the main square by the cathedral i encountered the danish ladies ulla and heidi why don t i have their picture i guess we are always busy talking when we meet they walked me to the pilgrim office where they had waited in line for two hours the day before to get their compostela certificates suddenly pedro was greeting me brandishing the cardboard tube containing his newly won compostela i started to introduce him to ulla as one of the guys with whom i had ridden horses up to cebreiro but with mock indignation he insisted no horse a pié on foot then with spanish and gestures he firmly indicated that i should get in line right then and there to get my certificate well okay the line seemed to be moving along and ulla kept me company for a while after she left i chatted with a guy from belgium who had done the camino on his bike as the line moved forward into the courtyard i looked back toward the street and saw my south african friends herbert and makkie of a few days ago but i was still some way from the front of the line at 7 o clock so i decided to leave for the mass in the huge cathedral a thousand or more people filled the pews sat on steps and leaned against stone pillars and walls i scanned the crowds as i circled the three main seating areas hoping that one of my new friends might make room for me it was only later that it struck me how astounding this was a little over a month ago i had come to spain knowing no one and yet here i was with the expectation that people who were strangers to me just days ago would care enough to save me a seat and it was so after i had circled nearly all of the crowd and resigned myself to standing for another hour i heard a hiss there was pedro sitting on a step he waved me under the rope that demarcated the stairs to the exit doors and then his son beckoned me across to a spot on the steps half behind an enormous stone pillar that supported the barrel vaults of the ceiling far above jonathan explained that no cameras could be used during the mass itself but i should prepare my camera phone for the spectacle to come afterwards he pointed out the enormous brass incense burner hanging from a metal support high up near the ceiling the famous botafumeiro most of the mass in spanish was lost on me but i enjoyed hearing a woman s clear singing voice fill the cathedral special mention was made of the numbers of pilgrims who had arrived that day and registered i hadn t yet their countries and where they had started the mass ended with handshakes with one s neighbors and peace be with you there were so many jubilant pilgrims smiling at one another i think i shook a dozen hands then the cellphone cameras came out eight men dressed in red grasped a thick rope extending to the structure from which the botafumeiro hangs after the censer was lit and given an initial push their coordinated efforts made it swing more and more higher and higher until it was swooping in a 65 meter arc over our heads it seemed to swing straight at me spewing its fragrant smoke it s said this tradition began in order to dispel the stench of sweaty dirty pilgrim bodies my lucky last minute position was ideal i plan to return to tour the cathedral but here s a taste of what s inside you can see the dark shape of the botafumeiro suspended from its long rope in front of all the gold as i walked home after post botafumeiro dinner with john and glenys and 8 or 10 other newly arrived peregrinos and peregrinas i heard two guys playing guitar at the edge of this plaza next to the cathedral at the end of this long tiring exciting day i felt that i was still waiting for the reality to sink in that i too had completed my camino 42 883895 8 542687 author teresawalks posted on october 3 2015 october 8 2022 5 comments day 37 santiago de compostela i did it walked in to town with rick and anna of halifax nova scotia and immediately saw déli and her friends from madrid and glenys awaiting her dear john and other friends from australia i was also greeted warmly by a woman i walked with a week ago who had told me all about the politics and the beauties of catalunya found my hotel and the clean clothes i had sent ahead from the start tired but i will go out again soon to eat and then go to the 7 30 pm mass in the cathedral it s supposed to be quite the spectacle and all my new friends will be there also i need to figure out where and how to get my compostela the document that certifies that i walked to santiago here s my gps evidence which does not count backtracking wandering around towns staggering from one side of the path to another at the moment i took the photo it thought i wasn t quite in the zero spot however see photographic evidence with my shoes above eighteen days walking from st jean pied de port which is in france east of roncesvalles this map only shows spain to atapuerca just east of burgos then 15 days from astorga west of léon to santiago whew 42 883919 8 542610 author teresawalks posted on october 2 2015 october 8 2022 11 comments day 36 ribadiso to pedrouzo i m in my bunk in the town of pedrouzo resting after my walk second to last day and the travails of shower and laundry before i head out to find some dinner i m not sure whether it s a charmless place to stay or i am just feeling extra tired but this evening is the very first time i ve felt cranky toward my fellow travelers even though i know they are undoubtedly all on average just as nice and interesting as everyone i ve met so far that guy whose cellphone makes a noise every time he presses a key why has he been in the same place as me three nights in a row and why can t people hang up their laundry efficiently to leave room for mine in what s left of the sun and why is my bunk bed 18 from the door used by my nineteen roommates yeah i m ready for that hotel in santiago are these the flowers my mother called naked ladies i ve never wanted to put those words into a google search that s for sure a lily agapanthus maybe galicia definitely has a damper climate chestnuts and mushrooms makes me think of turkey stuffing i have encountered very few kids on the camino but i saw a couple of spanish school groups today and this family from china there have been lots of walkers all day and a mid morning rush hour with of course cows it was a long but easier walk today and this afternoon i was delighted to reconnect with glenys and john and their group i hope to see them and other new friends on arrival in santiago tomorrow déli from yesterday and her madrid friends the danish ladies ulla and heidi i first met in el ganso my horseback companions jonathan and pedro and who knows what other familiar and friendly faces getting there my gps app says 19 3 km to go tomorrow i think i ll believe the stone markers author teresawalks posted on october 1 2015 october 8 2022 7 comments posts navigation older posts menu primary navigation the route hablas español follow blog via email enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email email address follow where i ve been lately welcome april 3 2016 day 45 paris to home october 9 2015 from spain back to france all in one day 44 from departure october 7 2015 day 41 or 43 hasta luego santiago october 6 2015 day 40 santiago sights october 5 2015 day 39 finisterre the end of the world october 4 2015 day 38 rest day and a certificate or two october 3 2015 day 37 first evening in santiago october 3 2015 day 37 santiago de compostela october 2 2015 day 36 ribadiso to pedrouzo october 1 2015 day 35 ponte campaña to ribadiso september 30 2015 day 34 ventas de narón to ponte campaña september 29 2015 day 33 mercadoiro to ventas de narón september 28 2015 day 32 sarria to mercadoiro september 27 2015 day 31 tricastela to sarria september 26 2015 day 30 fonfria to triacastela september 26 2015 day 29 las herrerías to fonfria september 24 2015 day 28 trabadelo to las herrerías september 23 2015 day 27 cacobelos to trabadelo september 22 2015 day 26 ponferrada to cacobelos september 21 2015 day 25 el acebo to ponferrada september 20 2015 day 24 el ganso to el acebo de san miguel september 19 2015 day 23 léon astorga el ganso september 18 2015 day 22 across the meseta to léon september 17 2015 day 21 ps september 16 2015 day 21 burgos more r and r september 16 2015 day 20 burgos day at rest september 15 2015 day 19 atapuerca to burgos a speedy morning september 14 2015 day 18 villafranca montes de oca to atapuerca september 13 2015 day 17 belorado to villafranca montes de oca september 12 2015 day 16 viloria del rioja to belorado september 11 2015 day 15 cirueña to viloria del rioja september 10 2015 day 14 nájera to cirueña september 9...
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