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n the primary lottery nor did we win the second chance bid i re entered the lottery for june not the ideal weather window but we figured we could handle the heat we live where summers are hot and humid and by june we would be heat and humidity acclimated we won the lottery for june we had backcountry permits to hike the grand canyon i continued my training living in kansas which is known for being flat and relatively low elevation 866 feet above sea level where i live it can be difficult to train for climbing at higher altitudes i was up most mornings before dawn wearing a backpack using trekking poles doing hill repeats but i was gaining as much elevation in hiking four miles as i would gain in a single mile hiking at the grand canyon i practiced pitching my tent and setting up my gear i told myself i d do a dry run at some point before heading to the canyon but life gets in the way i had to help someone move to chicago the week before my trip i twisted an ankle four weeks before the trip which cut into my ability to train our spring was unseasonably cool so much for getting heat acclimated before leaving we pulled permits for mather campground at the south rim but could not get a spot at the north rim campground for the date we needed we managed to get reservations at cottonwood bright angel and havasupai gardens for the dates we wanted i made reservations for the steak dinner at phantom ranch and for breakfast the next morning about a month before our departure i received an email from the national park service informing me that due to work on the trans canyon water line tcwl the trail along the river from bright angel campground to havasupai gardens would be closed during our trip this meant we would have to take the more difficult path up the devil s corkscrew on the south kaibab trail and then cross the tonto plateau in order to reach havasupai gardens nps s message warned that this route could be dangerous especially during the heat of the june day and that there was no shade and possibly no water on the tonto plateau we were given the option to cancel our trip and collect a refund i messaged my hiking buddy and we talked about it we decided we could handle it and that we d just leave earlier in the day and carry more water i checked for availability at the north rim campground again apparently some folks had backed out when nps announced the tcwl work and trail closure i was able to get a reservation for the date we needed at the north rim campground which is a short distance from the north kaibab trailhead down into the canyon the lesson here for others planning trips to the grand canyon is that if at first you can t get the dates or the camp you want keep checking in as people often book sites even though their plans are tentative cancelations happen on the regular at november 30 2025 no comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels camping grand canyon hiking national park saturday november 1 2025 a walk in the park in august of 2024 i stopped in my local book shop shoutout to the raven bookstore as i often do to browse the shelves and see if there was anything i couldn t live without a very colorful book jacket caught my eye it was kevin fedarko s a walk in the park the true story of a spectacular misadventure in the grand canyon fedarko s book tells the story of him and long time collaborator friend and national geographic photographer peter mcbride hiking through the grand canyon mcbride approached fedarko with the idea as a way of celebrating the 100th anniversary of grand canyon national park but fedarko and mcbride don t experience the canyon the way most people do according to the national park service fewer than 1 of visitors to the grand canyon hike below the rim at all and the majority of those who do are day hikers who may venture down one of the main trails from the south rim most commonly the bright angel trail they may walk down to one of the first few rest houses or perhaps havasupai gardens plateau point or maybe as far as the colorado river more ambitious hikers in the grand canyon will do a rim to rim hike meaning they ll start at the south rim or north rim and hike to the opposite rim many fit hikers will do this in one day and some crazy people will even do rim to rim to rim in one go aside from looking for a challenge many choose rim to rim because it doesn t require a backcountry permit if you re not camping overnight in the canyon you don t need a permit getting a permit isn t easy you have to enter the lottery four months in advance if you want to camp and 15 months in advance if you want to stay in a cabin at phantom ranch fedarko and mcbride didn t opt for rim to rim they opted for a through hike east to west an east to west through hike of the grand canyon is very challenging after all the elevation changes and navigating around the canyon s various side canyons a through hike of this type adds up to more than 750 miles 1207 km the grand canyon is a desert and it s hot much of the time and in the winter it can be cold snowy and icy logistically a through hike means you have to set up caches for water and food along the route the route that fedarko and mcbride took required some canyoneering skills rappelling and navigating slot canyons fortunately for them they had some help from some of the grand canyon s most experienced hikers rich rudow and a community of other experienced grand canyon backcountry hikers took on the task of helping fedarko and mcbride go from inexperienced hikers to finishing their section hike over the course of a year fedarko s book was my favorite non fiction book of 2024 it s frustrating in parts emotional in parts and triumphant in the end fedarko uses his experience through hiking the canyon to highlight some challenges the canyon is facing mostly from developers who want to put in a tram system to ferry 10k people a day to the confluence perhaps the most sacred place in the canyon for many of the indigenous peoples who called the canyon home before the u s government forced them out mcbride also published a book of beautiful photographs taken during their year long section hike the grand canyon between river and rim is a stunning book and also worth checking out fedarko and mcbride s books inspired me to visit the grand canyon i hadn t been on a real camping and backpacking trip in more than 30 years obviously an east to west through hike was out of the question a rim to rim hike sounded doable but not in a day i decided i d do a rim to rim hike over four days and three nights from the north rim campground to cottonwood campground to phantom ranch and the bright angel campground all via the north kaibab trail then continue on the bright angel trail along the colorado river to havasupai gardens and finally up the bright angel trail to the south rim the grand canyon had other ideas over the next few blog posts i ll share some details of my adventure at november 01 2025 no comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels backpacking camping grand canyon hiking national park monday october 20 2025 grand canyon rim to rim 1 of n i hadn t intended to drive for 16 hours it s around midnight and my friend and i are about two hours away from bright angel lodge at the south rim of the grand canyon i pull over for gas to stretch my legs and wake myself up can you drive for a couple hours i ask oh yeah he replies i finish filling the tank he sprints back and forth across the parking lot we get back on the road nine months earlier we d been catching up in the kitchen at a friend s birthday party i d been inspired to hike the grand canyon by reading kevin fedarko s book a walk in the park i hadn t been on an overnight backpacking trip in more than 30 years i d never been to the grand canyon i d only seen it from the window of a plane at 30 thousand feet en route to and from work in the san francisco bay area somewhat spur of the moment during our kitchen conversation i said i m going to go hike the grand canyon next summer other than telling my wife i wanted to do it i hadn t said a word about it to anyone verbalizing this to my friend was a way of making myself accountable for it a way for me to commit to something i really wanted to do my friend enthusiastically asked if he could join he s one of my oldest and best friends i knew he was serious of course i replied and that was it the next day i sent him a text we both spent time watching grand canyon hikers on youtube we started training researching gear nutrition and hydration we hadn t won the lottery yet but we decided if we didn t pull a permit for the grand canyon we d find something else to do during the same time frame december came around and i entered the backcountry permit lottery we didn t win we entered into the secondary which might give us a chance if any of the primary winners backed out apparently they didn t we talked about june the temperatures would be hot but we thought we could handle it we d have time to get heat acclimated during our late stage training i entered the june lottery in january and we won not only did we pull a backcountry permit we were able to pull permits for each of the campgrounds we wanted mather north rim cottonwood bright angel and havasupai gardens we even managed to get dinner and breakfast reservations at phantom ranch we would find out later why we were so lucky i won t say the logistics of hiking rim to rim at the grand canyon are difficult but they are involved there s travel to the canyon an 18 hour drive in our case finding a place to stay when you get there we opted for mather campground at the south rim where an elk walked through our campground due to our arrival in the middle of the night we also slept in the car for a few hours then you have to arrange for a shuttle either before or after your hike through the canyon we opted to leave our car at the south rim and used the trans canyon shuttle to get to the north rim the shuttle takes about four hours from the south rim to the north rim it drops off hikers between 11 a m and 12 p m which was too late in the day to start hiking in the june heat so you may need a place to stay once you get to the north rim we camped at the north rim campground and started our hike at 4 a m the next morning more on that in a future post at october 20 2025 no comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels backpacking camping grand canyon hiking rim to rim road trip sunday july 7 2024 paperclip maximizers artificial intelligence and natural stupidity existential risk from ai some believe an existential risk accompanies the development or emergence of artificial general intelligence agi quantifying the probability of this risk is a hard problem to say nothing of calculating the probabilities of the many non existential risks that may merely delay civilization s progress ai systems as we have known them have been mostly application specific expert systems programmed to parse inputs apply some math and return useful derivatives of the inputs these systems are different than non ai applications because they apply the inputs they receive and the information they produce to future decisions it s almost as if the machine were learning an example of a single purpose expert system is spambayes spambayes is based on an idea of paul graham s its an open source project that applies supervised machine learning and bayesian probabilities to calculate the likelihood that a given email is spam or not spambayes parses emails applies an algorithm to the contents of a given email and produces a probability that the message is spam or ham the user of the email account with spambayes can read the messages and train the expert system by changing the classification of any given message from spam to ham or ham to spam these human corrections cause the application to update the probabilities that given word combinations spelling errors typos links etc occur in spammy or hammy messages application specific expert systems are a form of artificial intelligence but they are narrowly focused and not general purpose they are good at one thing and don t have the flexibility to go from classifying spam messages to executing arbitrary tasks artificial intelligence systems have been around for decades and there s been no realized existential risks what makes artificial general intelligent systems so problematic ai pessimists believe agi systems are dangerous because they will be smarter and faster than humans and capable of mastering new skills if these systems aren t aligned with human interests they may pursue their own objectives at the expense of everything else this could even happen by accident hypothetically let s say an agi system is tasked with curing cancer because this system is capable of performing any thinking related task it may dedicate cycles to figuring out how it can cure cancer more quickly perhaps it concludes it needs more general purpose computers on which to run its algorithm in its effort to add more compute it catalogs and learns how to exploit all of the known remote code execution vulnerabilities and uses this knowledge to both exploit vulnerable systems and to discover new exploits eventually it is capable of taking over all general purpose computers and tasking them with running its distributed cancer cure finding algorithm unfortunately all general purpose computers including ones like the one on which you re likely reading this post many safety critical systems emergency management and dispatch systems logistics systems smart televisions and phones all cease to perform their original programming in favor of finding the cure for cancer billions of people die of dysentery and dehydration as water treatment systems cease performing their primary functions industrial farming systems collapse and starvation spreads chaos reigns in major urban areas as riots looting and fires rage until the fuel that drives them is left smoldering the skies turn black over most cities worldwide scenarios like this one are similar to the idea of the paperclip maximizer which is a thought experiment proposed by nick bostrom wherein a powerful ai system is built to maximize the number of paperclips in the universe which leads to the destruction of humanity who have to be eliminated because they may turn off the system and they are made of atoms that may be useful in the construction of paperclips some people think this is ridiculous they ll just unplug the damn computer but remember this is a computer that thinks thousands of times faster than you it can anticipate 100s of 1000s of your next moves and ways to thwart them before you even think of one next move and it s not just a computer it s now all general purpose computers that it has appropriated the system would anticipate that humans would try and shut it down and would think 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