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zillian met up there apparently he hadn t heard that we were going to meet there we saw him walking on the long path upward so robbie said we ll just get him at the top of the path but in the interim the brazillian thought i ll go down and meet them so we were up at the top waiting for him and he was down at the bottom waiting for us so we drove back down to the bottom but the brazilian walked back up to the top it was some keystone cops hilarity happening we must have done this dance a couple more times and i said to the tour group we d lost him to the angel s share which made everyone laugh the angel s share is how much whisky evaporates each year that a whisky is in the cask finally robbie walked down by himself and got the brazilian it was pretty funny this back and forthing although i suppose it loses something in the translation then we went to bunnahabhain pronounced bunna hay ven for a whisky tasting these were unpeated whiskies 2022 abhain araig 2012 olorosso bott and something that looks like toiteach a dila it s handwritten not very clearly although the 46 3 notation was clear and they were very nice i took a taste but i didn t drink them up because i would have collapsed on the floor i wanted to buy a bottle for c but then i remembered two things 1 he wanted a peated whisky and 2 how the hell would i get a bottle home anyway i didn t buy one and they were crazy expensive anyway like 79 for a tiny bottle seriously they look like boobs jura island across from the distillery was the isolated island of jura only 300 inhabitants which in my mind looked like a couple of boobs what can i say maybe i m a 12 year old boy instead of mountains it was a lovely day especially compared to the day before which was so wet and dreich i found myself after the tasting just looking out on the water and the beach and enjoying the fresh sea air kildalton high cross the next day we hit up three more distilleries but before we did that we stopped at the kildalton high cross which was carved in the 700 s and according to the sign is one of the finest and most complete early christian crosses in scotland it s a tall celtic cross maybe twice as tall as a person and it s next to the roofless ruins of a church it s beautiful and the carvings are in great shape not worn smooth at all there was a little donation box asking for money so i dropped in a pound and a sign saying to leave the gate shut to keep out the sheep but obviously someone had left it open recently due to all the fresh sheep pellets in the grass after that little diversion we were off to ardbeg distillery on the south coast of islay our tour guide was this snarky gen z er who was very knowledgeable about the whisky process and her name was jura after the island taking guests on tours was her summer job she told me as she was attending a university on the mainland i think the whisky was good but i thought kilchoman was better there was a walk to some old ruins but my foot was killing me so i just sat in the peaty grass for a while and took a little walk towards the cliffs next door was lagavulin distillery and we stopped in for a bar visit i was parched and got both a sparkling water and a pink fancy passionfruit whisky cocktail that was delicious but maybe not worth 8 the norwegian men got a flight to share it was like a top tier flight because it wound up being over 120 and they didn t blink an eye granted they got some snacks too and cocktails for their wives but still it was an impressive amount of money to drop for five drams of whisky laphroaig sea sign it s big so ships delivering barley can see it in the mist the last stop was laphroaig pronounced la froyg the new yorkers were looking especially forward to going there as it s the husband s favorite whisky brand laphroaig began in 1815 when the sons of a farmer decided to make whisky on the campbell estate what was interesting was that one of the brothers emigrated to australia and the other brother drowned in a vat of burnt ale i m not sure how you burn ale but that s what the sign said his son inherited the distillery at age 11 but since he was underage the manager of the lagavulin distillery ran it but when the son had grown he ran it until his death thus was the early history of laphroaig but another cool fact about the whisky was that during american prohibition the feds were persuaded that laphroaig was medicinal so people could totally buy it and drink it the laphroaig flagship whisky the one to try after our tour the guide let us choose 3 among 7 different whiskies to try my choices included the 10 year cask strength the 10 year sherry oak finish and the quintessential 10 year aged in ex bourbon barrels the laphroaig flagship whisky the regular 10 year was pretty good i didn t care for the sherry finish which is surprising since i usually appreciate the sweetness of sherry cask whiskies islay is lovely like all of scotland but there s not much here besides sheep and distilleries i was glad i went and glad i could try so many different drams but i think i was a little disappointed overall i really had hoped that somehow stewart the tour guide on the speyside trail a couple of years ago could have been our guide this time that would have been magic he really enjoyed whisky and i didn t get the feeling that robbie cared one way or the other i also felt like for robbie this was just a tour whereas for stewart whisky was a passion and making people love whisky was also a passion but you can t pick your tour guides and it was nice to see a new part of scotland and it was nice to find out that peated whiskies are good too i guess they are an acquired taste which i acquired the kilmartin church kilmartin church kildalton church i really like the composition here kilmartin church kildalton church old gravestones at kilmartin church lagavulin distillery more old graves at kilmartin more graves at kilmartin i don t know why i took so many pics of them these really old graves from the 1300s were in a protected shed kildalton church laphroaig cask strength it was pretty strong on the ferry caol ila whiskies i stayed away because i would have been drunk off my ass kildalton high cross with people for scale kildalton cross with the norwegians the malting floor at laphroaig this pic reminds me of the end of indiana jones where the ark gets put in with thousands of other boxes there were 100s of barrels here me on the calmac ferry oban harbor oban harbor i feel like my dad would like this pic of the oban harbor that dark sky meant some serious rain oban harbor oban harbor oban harbor ramp old castle ruins near lagavulin distillery hotel on the oban harbor high street laphroaig peat oven it was surprisingly small bowmore mill the mills across islay were all made by the same manufacturer and so hardy that they ve lasted over 150 years they never break down and the company went out of business because they never had to repair the mills bowmore wash back where the barley water ferments get these mountains a bra for heaven s sake on the way home we stopped at the rest and be well glen in inverary on the way home i had lunch at the george hotel it was mediocre the 3 flags flying over laphroaig yes japan has a big interest in the distillery the different grain sizes once they go through the mill bowmore guide next to a peat pile bowmore mash tun where the malt gets mashed kilchoman stills share this email a link to a friend opens in new window email share on facebook opens in new window facebook share on linkedin opens in new window linkedin share on x opens in new window x share on pinterest opens in new window pinterest like loading posted in general travel tagged ardbeg bennahabhain bowmore caol ila distilery islay kilchoman lagavulin laphroaig lots of pictures oban chocolate company peat scotland single malt travel travel blog whisky leave a reply dispatch from edinburgh 3 cats posted on june 28 2025 by jc reilly reply the only cat cafe in scotland i think one of the real privations of spending the summer in edinburgh is the lack of cats i desperately miss my cats back home but i just miss cats in general since edinburgh is a city with lots of traffic people fortunately don t seem to let their cats out of doors maybe in the suburbs but not in the city though i did see a white cat with orange spots at the house across the street but only a flash of it as it disappeared into the garden and i haven t seen it since the only other cat i ve seen is turret in the highlands at the distillery aside from those two edinburgh is a dry county when it comes to cats or so i thought last week my ears pricked up at the faculty dinner when someone mentioned something about a cat café so i looked up online and sure enough edinburgh has a cat café called maison de moggy and i was determined to go for 12 you can go to maison de moggy and pet and play with cats for a full hour you can also get a snack and i chose a strawberry lemonade and a slice of carrot cake but i was there to pet some cats and pet them i did fleur the oriental shorthair and sebastian the norwegian forest cat all of the cats were young i don t think any were older than a year they cavorted and chased after feather wands and jumped on tables and sat on chairs a few of them were sleepy and snoozed where they dropped and no amount of petting could rouse them i did not pet snoozing cats that s rude at the table next to mine a couple had ordered fancy hot chocolates with whipped cream and sprinkles but they were off playing with some cats when their drinks were delivered a grey oriental shorthair named fleur saw it as her moment to get on the table and lick some whipped cream unfortunately for fleur the cat nanny who had dropped off the drinks saw what she was about and scooched her off the table but not for long when the couple sat down to drink their hot chocolate fleur reappeared and did her best to look deprived and starved but the couple wasn t fooled so the cat just sat there hoping and looking very pathetic but also sleek and beautiful as all oriental shorthairs are maude fleur s sister there were four pairs of sibling cats the two oriental shorthairs with maude the chocolate cat being fleur s sister two ragdolls two norwegian forest cats and two british short hairs the brown tabby norwegian whose name i didn t get but i think might be sebastian let me dangle a feather wand at him and he caught his little birdie a few times i almost got to pet his brother nico but this little 10 year old child just wouldn t let me she just had to get all the cats to herself she kind of chased after them which was bad flicking her feather wand at them even when they couldn t care less i also got to play with one of the ragdolls until that little girl chased after the cat into the other room i mostly spent time with fleur because she seemed to appreciate my calm and my unwillingness to throw the feather wand feather in her face she let me pet her which was nice she was very sweet and rather vocal sebastian playing with the cat wand gilbert the british shorthair i can t say that my cat needs have been completely assuaged but i feel less cat missing and cat lonely than i was before i went maison de moggy is in the grassmarket part of edinburgh and it s a little hidden so if you go make sure you pass the women s hostel it s kind of err cattycorner to the maison meow sleepy kitty whose name begins with d the other ragdoll cat who was thinking about jumping onto my table bartholo mew a view of edinburgh castle from the grassmarket the famous greyfriars bobby statue not a cat obvs on the descent into the grassmarket share this email a link to a friend opens in new window email share on facebook opens in new window facebook share on linkedin opens in new window linkedin share on x opens in new window x share on pinterest opens in new window pinterest like loading posted in travel tagged cat cafe cats edinburgh grassmarket greyfriars 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