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means that your paypal or card information will be retained by facebook to facilitate future transactions you are not given the option like on most sites to not capture the info do you want facebook to retain your card information see 2 above so facebook s kindness in facilitating charitable donations allows them to harvest personal data 1 above and credit card information for free when i run into this situation i send the money to the person directly with paypal rather than going through facebook donations organizing a crowdfunding or fundraising campaign there are numerous independent sites that can be used instead while still publicizing your campaign on fb when i want to donate to a campaign that is on one of these sites i do not click through facebook which will capture my activity i go to the fundraising site in a new window navigate to the fundraiser s page and make my donation here are some more articles on this subject http artfulfundraiser com 2017 11 01 some concerns about facebooks donation platform http www achieveagency com the pros cons of facebooks fundraising tools http cellosignal com blog facebooks new fundraising button mixed blessing http www givegab com blog nonprofit know facebooks donate button filed under uncategorized leave a comment making the moog etherwave theremin roadworthy 07feb19 please note that i am not responsible for any damage you do to your theremin as a result of my blog hack at your own risk if you don t know how to work on electronics or wood ask a friend updated december 2023 this blog concerns the moog etherwave theremin it deserves credit for being the pioneering modern professional quality mass market theremin it unfortunately suffers from a few errors in its design my wife has played this theremin in our garage punk band human toys for about 10 years experience has proven that the moog etherwave was not designed for use on the road so i had to fix six problems as explained below which i did not expect to encounter in a 700 device made for professional use booo 1 a key problem is that the output is line level not guitar level so if you connect your theremin to a guitar amp or play it through guitar effects pedals the level is much too high and you will get clipping and distortion booooo i suspect many moog theremin players are not aware of this i would say that this was an unfortunate engineering decision on moog s part it presumably improves the signal to noise ratio but at the cost of compatibility with standard devices in order to connect successfully to a guitar amp or an effects pedal we need to reduce the output level i give a big tip of the hat to the big briar service manual which explains precisely what to do resistor r33 4 7k needs to be replaced with a 47k resistor this has the desired effect ps if you are not using pedals and do not want to modify your theremin you can safely use amplifiers that have a line input 2 on this 700 device moog saved 1 by not having a power indicator this is essential so that a musician on stage can rapidly verify that the power is arriving properly how many times have etherwave users set up on stage found that there was no sound output and wondered whether it was the power supply or something on the output side booooo i added a 12 volt led across the power supply available via the black and green wires on the front panel pots i chose a 3mm led and drilled a hole in the front panel for it it s in series with a ballast resistor since the power supply is 14 volts and doesn t that look nice now you get an immediate indication on stage when the unit is powered on of course you can pay 70 more and get the moog etherwave plus which does indeed have a power indicator 3 the power supply connector is a three pin din although only two pins are used perhaps this was done intentionally to discourage people from plugging in other power supplies but a din plug with its small pins is more fragile than the standard low voltage connectors also the mating power connector on the theremin is hidden inside the case behind the wood making it difficult to orient and connect on a dark stage or even a well lit one boooo much worse the power connector on the theremin is simply soldered to the circuit board there s nothing to hold it in place except its three wires no screws etc so after a few years of constant use the wires break where they are soldered to the circuit board and the theremin does not work booooooo i replaced the connector with a surface mounted one that is screwed into and supported by the wooden case so it is not fragile and being on the exterior you can see the positions of the pins making it easier to plug into 4 2023 new problem the theremin works intermittently diagnosis the antennas are mounted on threaded pipe fittings that are screwed into the wood sides this seems to work ok although it s kind of a hack then to connect the antenna to the circuit a small hole is drilled diagonally so the screwdriver can reach it and tapped i think for a tiny screw which holds a metal star washer soldered to a wire well that s kind of a hack too because in the best of cases the flat screw head and flat washer make a funky contact with the curved pipe fitting worse the metal pipe fitting is rather thin at that point too thin to hold the screw properly the proof that it s a hack in my case after removing the screw once and putting it back during previous repairs the threads stripped so the washer was not held tightly on the pipe fitting and moved ever so slightly when the theremin would vibrate for example touching the volume antenna with your hand haha this made the volume intermittent it would cut out randomly very irritating boooo solution i soldered a wire directly to the pipe fitting while the fitting was out of the theremin to avoid burning the wood and then screwed the pipe fitting back in and soldered the other end of the wire to the pc board now rather than being held by the unreliable threaded screw and star washer it is just directly soldered does not move and the problem is gone 5 after about 250 gigs the threads on the microphone mount on the base of the theremin had literally worn away and did not hold on a mic stand any longer i could not find an alternative that s the same size so i replaced it with the same poor quality part atlas sound ad 11b available on line for about 10 actually i got ad 11be black i suppose i ll be replacing it again in 10 years i wish atlas had not made it from cheap pot metal i wish moog had selected a better quality part booo 6 the last area of concern is the wooden case my wife dropped her theremin off a 6 foot 2 metre stage bringing to light certain design deficiencies sorry for the blurry photo where you can see the wood completely cracked into 2 pieces moog s case design is clever because with four screws you can take the upper box off and then operate test the unit when it s open see first photo at top of page but the short sides of the lower box where the antennas are attached are not supported on their top edge by the case even when it s closed so they are exposed to stress when the antennas move or when it s dropped so the side panels crack boooooo what s more the short sides of the lower box are made of wood rather than plywood which cracks along the grain precisely where it has been drilled for the antennas if moog had chosen plywood this would be less of a problem strangely the front and back of the upper box are attached to the top with special screws and threaded plugs rather than being grooved and glued presumably this was an attempt to make it stronger the correct way to make the upper box strong is to complete the upper box with 2 more panels with glued dado joints on the inside see photo below with post it notes taking the place of these panels if moog engineers had paid attention in wood shop 101 they would know this there is room for these panels to pass on the two sides of the pc board where the metal plates are these two panels do not have to extend all the way to the base they could pass above the metal plates the upper box would be very strong and they could save money on those funky threaded plugs booo however those cool threaded plugs would find a much better use holding the top part of the short sides of the lower box which support the antennas i used wood screws instead see photo below now the side panels are supported at the top when the unit is closed i glued the cracked side panels which seem to be holding up fine if i had needed to replace these panels i would have done it with plywood as explained above also one of the wooden feet fell off they are glued and nailed with tiny nails a grooved joint or screws would have made them much more solid there you go now we have a more usable sturdy theremin that s ready to go on the road postscript when i first posted this blog on the theremania facebook group another group member criticized what he considered theremin abuse citing as examples a violin or a piano i don t recommend dropping a theremin a violin or a piano off a stage we do take care of our theremin it happened by accident but the example of a violin is flawed because the sound of a violin is directly related to its relatively fragile physical construction on the contrary a theremin can be constructed in a sturdy manner without affecting the sound the example of the piano is pertinent because indeed after centuries of refinement pianos are designed and built so that they can be pounded on for years without falling to bits this has permitted in modern times jerry lee lewis to play a piano with his feet without breaking it whether this is a good thing is open to debate but shall we tell him to stop falling off a 2 metre stage is extreme but falling off a 1 metre mic stand by accident could happen to anyone even you dear reader in your living room building the theremin with the standard techniques and good sense that i mention would result in a unit that would resist more common situations as well this is why i believe my comments about its durability are reasonable and i stand behind my other comments about numerous aspects of the design that could be better in parallel with the evolution of modern music and performances manufacturers like gibson and fender succeeded by making their guitars and amplifiers more durable to stand up to contemporary use this built their brands reputations and contributed to their success i believe that moog would serve their own interests by improving the durability and usability of their product in performance situations robert moog is no longer with us but i believe that as an honest engineer he would own up to my criticisms even if you debate my points concerning the wooden case the power connector is a better example even children s toys are better constructed than this imagine if the door handle of you car were held on by three thin wires one day it would probably pull off and you d ask why didn t ford put this on with bolts and my points when taken as a whole show that the etherwave was designed for static home or studio use and not for performance in public otherwise why the absence of a power indicator this story reminds me of the vox continental 2 organ used in my other group this was a brilliant innovative electronic design and sounds wonderful but any vox owner will tell you that the physical design is a catastrophe and it is constantly in need of repair flimsy construction fragile wires etc in 1965 the designers were clearly stuck in a mentality where the instrument would never go further than the user s living room or a recording studio once in a real world of touring the organ falls apart and becomes a liability later electronic organs are less fragile and more practical for the real world filed under arts music text in english top tips vie pratique 2 comments silvertone 1457 tune up 25sep14 fr quelques tuyaux pour bricoler votre silvertone à vos risques et périls i love my sears silvertone 1457 guitar cheaply built almost 60 years ago and apparently stored in a damp closet for a while it deserved a little tune up here is what i did note i have no training in guitar repair i will take no responsibility for the content of this article or its consequences proceed at your own risk i drilled a new hole and moved the strap button to a better position so the strap doesn t fall off all the time click on photos to enlarge them i removed the strings the knobs and then the pickguard careful it s fragile and the electronics are attached and cleaned the electronic components with a cleaning spray i cleaned the crud off the pickguard and knobs i used very fine 400 emery cloth lightly moving along the fret not up and down to clean the crud off i masked the rosewood with masking tape when sanding each fret to avoid damaging it i then cleaned the neck and fretboard with a guitar cleaning product the tuning pegs did not turn smoothly i removed the tuning pegs a couple of screws and they come out neatly and cleaned them and then applied lithium grease to all friction points on the gears and on the plates the original rosewood bridge saddle was badly worn with repercussions on the guitar s sound i found an original new old stock saddle on the internet there are also modern replacement saddles available another approach would have been to replace the bridge with a metal adjustable one i wanted to lower the action height of strings above the neck but the top end of the bridge is held up by 2 wood screws that could not go any deeper in the body tightening them further would have made them pierce the body and stick out the back the bottom end of the bridge is also held by a wood screw and in order to keep the strings tight against the saddle this one must go in further as well so i used a metal saw to remove a few millimeters from each screw allowing their heads to go lower this could have also been accomplished with a bench grinder or perhaps by changing to shorter screws i put a washer under the bottom screw to raise the bridge slightly making more space for the balls on the ends of the strings to catch under the bridge so they don t slip out having replaced the saddle and lowered the bridge it s time to set the intonation here s how i do it i don t claim it s correct tighten the screw on the back of the saddle so you can still move it a little bit position the saddle in a reasonable place and mount the bridge put on low e string stretch it tune it now fret at the octave position and adjust the left side of the saddle to tune to e put on high e string stretch it tune it now fret at the octave position and adjust the right side of the saddle to tune to e tune low e string verify intonation of both strings and correct if necessary put on b string stretch it tune it now fret at the octave position and adjust the right side of the saddle to tune to b there are now enough strings to hold the saddle in place it should not move easily any more tune all three...
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