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ingy hallway with stairs going up on the right hand side the flat for rent was the ground floor one to the left was a door leading into the living room she unlocked the room to reveal a small square room with hideous brown curtains drawn across the bay windows overlooking the road we drew the curtains back which hardly increased the light in the room but exposed a horrid looking patterned wall to wall carpet in grey red and green and an even uglier wallpaper with chinese motif panning around the room from the window there was a small television on a wooden stand an old fashioned fireplace an armchair from victorian times the door and a grey sofa i flicked the light switch but nothing happened the gas and electricity works via a meter marjory said fumbling in her pockets and inserting a 50 pence coin into a little black box at the far end of the room twisting a little knob on the box the coin fell into a repository below and the light came on i wish i hadn t bothered i thought as i looked at the dim light shining through the dirty saucer shaped glass hiding the bulb there were several dead insects lying on top of the saucer throwing their contours through the glass we went back to the hallway and into the room bordering the living room she switched on the light to expose a dark red shag pile carpet and an enormous looking old bed in a dark wooden frame draped by a pink bed cover the bed virtually took up the whole room from the door to the dirty window at the back outside the window was a concrete yard bordered to the left by a red brick wall and on the right by as i assumed correctly the kitchen at the far end there was a wooden double gate which had been painted brown at some stage but the paint was now flaking badly exposing patches of rotting wood moving back out and along to the back of the hallway was the afore mentioned kitchen sporting to the left a door to the yard a sink an old gas cooker and to the right a table with 2 chairs and a fireplace similar to the one in the living room the ceiling tiles which were made out of thin polystyrene were in places curling at the edges and showed numerous patterns of old dried watermarks a neon strip light at the centre of the ceiling catered for ambiance underneath the neon strip as a curious looking contraption made of wood which as i found out is used for drying clothes on only the british could contemplate drying their clothes in the kitchen where you cook fish bacon and god only knows what other smelly things i thought have they not heard of tumble dryers i wondered before reminding myself that due to being in this parallel universe the date was 1962 and tumble dryers had not been invented yet beyond the kitchen was the bathroom and toilet never in all my days have i seen a kitchen linked to a bathroom it was grotesque and so was the bathtub and toilet sporting as it was the grime and limestone of a thousand years the loo seat seemed to be made of a foam material covered with plastic and i vowed that my behind would never have to face it there were more cracks in the wall than wrinkles on an old woman s face and as all the above mentioned rooms were connected via a hallway which was open to anybody such as the people living upstairs more about them later any visitors etc you needed to lock all rooms at all times nevertheless i decided to take the place since it was the only one i could just about afford and at least it was near the big green park known as the knavesmire where the york racecourse is situated and yet still in walking distance to the town so we drove back to the agency where marjory copied my passport details got me to sign my life away and took two monthly payments off me in return i got a bunch of keys one for every door as i was sitting back at my desk in rowntrees on that monday i somehow was in no hurry to get back to the flat wondering if i had made a mistake it was only during the next week when the lodgers from upstairs returned from their holidays that i was almost certain of this since i didn t have many options i surely was not to blame was i i was just about to leave the flat one morning when there was the jingle of a key in the front door and i was confronted with a couple in their mid 30s who are you what are you doing here i am erik the german and i live here i replied pointing to the downstairs living room and stretching out my hand which nobody shook why is this i wondered do the british have a phobia fearing they would catch terminal diseases by shaking hands or is this just too personal i just couldn t figure it out i must remember to ask martin about this he shakes hands all the time and seems to get away with it they gave their name which if you have paid attention previously naturally eludes me and we went our separate ways me out and they in returning home later that evening i watched some tv and decided to hit the sack in order to be fresh for the next day i was just about ready to take the fluffy pink slow train to snore donia when i perceived some squeaking followed by more squeaking interlaced with knocking followed by even more squeaking interlaced with knocking topped up with loud moaning and finally banging squeaking knocking moaning and shouts of yes yes all i could think was no no give them their due this carried on for a good 45 minutes during which i wondered several times if they were actually just outside my room or in fact about to break through the ceiling apart from robbing you of your sleep this is about the last thing you need when you are young on your own and virile this blatant display repeated itself most nights during the remaining 7 to 8 months with the exception of one night when they had a party with numerous friends in the middle of the night all hell broke loose and fighting broke out during which the front door got smashed up it turned out that one of the so called friends was checking out the lady of the flat and got caught the police eventually calmed the situation down by taking the very irate drunk and fist swinging guy from upstairs into custody apart from the fact that anyone could now just walk in from the street as there was no front door it all went eerily quiet over the next weeks and months i began to appreciate my parents place back home where there were so many things i had always taken for granted here are just a few things i was not used to there was no central heating and operating the gas fires in winter was expensive and left you roasted from the front but frozen at the back getting out of bed in the morning under these circumstances was a challenge as you tried not to freeze to the floor you had to conjure up thoughts of hot steamy coffee and sitting in the most important room for a well deserved cigarette break in order to motivate yourself to jump out of bed and into your clothes before your private parts fell off through frost bite the money you inserted into the pay box taking 50 pence at a time would always run out at the precise moment of one of these during cooking or boiling the kettle for a cuppa during an extended session on the loo at night during the crucial point at the end of a film on tv during particularly cold evenings and when you had freshly run out of 50 pence coins in which case it is on with the coat run down to the off license which is 5 minutes away to buy something you don t need ask for 50 pence in your change run back double glazing you must be kidding right there was more water streaming off the inside of the windows than could be extracted from the ill working shower in the bathroom to top it all was there a groove underneath the window panes to collect the water running off them and guiding it outside like is usual back home nope that job was performed by the wallpaper underneath which soaked it up nicely hot and cold water mixer taps never heard of them take your pick would you like to use a tap no 1 with water cold enough to cut your hands in half or b tap no 2 which will boil you alive and melt your hands that s if the meter hasn t run out the furniture including the bed and mattress were remains from a time when queen victoria was a child and were no doubt collected together from the tip or a jumble sale the springs in the mattress had the elasticity of custard and the blanket well let s draw a veil over it shall we the tv picture quality was great if you like snow storms but useless for viewing anything else apart from itv and that was in black white lighting the oven was an interesting exercise too you had to switch on the gas open the oven light a match and hover it over the very far bottom area of the oven praying all along that it would ignite without blowing your hand off most of the time it did not light straight away and you would burn your fingers on the match so you had to strike another one by which time sufficient gas had escaped which would ignite with a big woooff sound frightening the bejesus out of you and leaving the kitchen smelling like gas leak alley having thus successfully managed to overcome the forces of ill design the meter would run out leaving your meal uncooked if you happened to have a bad day and re loaded the meter before turning the gas off first you returned to a gas filled kitchen and could thank your lucky stars that you had run out of cigarettes as clint eastwood as harry callahan in dirty harry would have said this could blow your head clean off the mind boggles cockroaches are living beings too ugly ones and fast i pretended that they would eat the many spiders which in turn would catch the many flies which were attracted by the damp mouldy stench coming from the carpets it s amazing what one will dream up in order to cope with things i imagined how much better my situation was compared with that of people living in previous centuries at least i did not have to go to an outside toilet at night even though sometimes that looked like an almost inviting proposition these days i would have spend the first two days cleaning and disinfecting everything from top to bottom but back in 1980 i didn t even have a hoover at my disposal and being young might not have used it anyway enough of grimy thoughts and let us move on to a more pleasant pastime some pictures the gang of 1975 york station the wold view guesthouse the york minster the kings arms at the river ouse the river ouse in york corner of petergate and stonegate snow outside my flat clifford tower in springtime the kings arms during flooding the micklegate run anyone who knows york is aware of the fact that it s encased by a wall with different gates offering entrance to the city some of the main ones are monk bar bootham bar walmgate bar and micklegate bar my daily journey to work took me from my flat near the york racecourse along blossom street through micklegate bar and along micklegate which descends down to meet the town centre and the river ouse one friday in september i was sitting at rowntrees happily filing away invoices as i was approached by lesley and henry grinning at me and enquiring if i had anything planned for the evening not knowing a busting lot of people at that time what would i have possibly had planned i m free i stated truthfully they then proceeded to invite me for a night out and asked me if i know where blossom street is i live just around the corner from there i reminded them o k let s meet in the windmill pub which is close to micklegate bar at 7 p m they suggested what s the occasion i asked you have been here for over a month now which is long enough to qualify for honorary citizenship of york however anyone wanting to be seen as true resident of york needs to have experienced the famous micklegate run was the reply micklegate run do i need sports shoes haha no just come in t shirt and jeans but eat something before you meet us open to any nonsense i duly went home took a shower had something to eat changed my clothes and walked to the windmill pub about six of the rowntree people had already arrived and i was asked what pint i wanted a pint of bass please i replied and what please is micklegate run about ok erik ask any local and they will tell you that there are 365 pubs in york one for every day of the year although in reality the actual number may vary from year to year this figure is never far from the truth the most popular pubs in york are found along the famous micklegate run which is an infamous run of pubs usually started somewhere close to the top of micklegate like here or the punch bowl where we go next and progresses all the way to the bottom of the run and into town the idea is to drink one pint in every pub although many have attempted to drink a pint in every pub on the run few have succeeded in fact as the chain of pubs has grown over the years most tend to skip a couple along the way once we have run the gauntlet of micklegate we may manage to venture in to the nightclub at walker s bar gott im himmel how many is the number of pubs let me see there is edwards the falcon harry s bar the nagshead the phalanx and firkin scruffy murphy s walkers bar and don t forget the punch bowl there are more than that but we never remember ever going there i am not surprised i gasped and so began erik s first micklegate run by 7 30 p m everybody had arrived and it was time to drink up and move on to the punch bowl it seemed to me as if the whole town had suddenly decided to visit the local watering holes as the pub continued to fill with lots and lots of young people both male and female even though it was a struggle to get through to the bar there was never any angry word spoken or any unpleasantness to be seen as everyone just seemed to be out to enjoy the evening and have a laugh as the second pint came to an end i was grateful for the training in drinking pints i had undertaken during many evenings of utter boredom in the previous weeks by the time we got to the nagshead my head started to feel a bit like a nag the pubs were by now so full that we just dove in and formed a kind of chain to the bar passing the beers down the line to the rest of the group still remaining outside and then extricated ourselves again in order to drink and talk in front of the pub my inhibitions had by this time all but gone my english was getting better by the minute well at least that s what it sounded like inside my head keith you old rhino i slurred why is no one of you english bastards shaking hands huh i don t know it s just not one of those things that people do much if you want people to shake hands you need to stretch your hand out slowly and unthreatening and then people usually don t mind what a nags behind put it here i said stretching out my hand which keith nearly crushed whilst someone else exchanged my empty pint glass with a full one there i was standing outside a pub in the middle of york swaying slightly and thinking to myself i like this country i like this town i like the british i like this beer and i like my life yes it ...