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ently on the corner of rue du paradis and rue d hauteville in the once again trendy10th arrondissement created by la clique a cultish group of young restaurateurs behind establishments such as the hotel amour le baron chez moune etc this spacious retro design space mucho formica is open all day serving pizza by the slice and salads and vintage games such as ms pac man and space invaders but sadly no dig dug one of the hottest addresses of the rentrée especially when their new basement club a friendlier version of le baron opens with an ambition guest dj program for phantoms of another type try the excellent manoir hantée just next door posted by adrian at 10 12 am 1 comment labels 75010 arcade bar la clique le baron le fantome paris restaurant tuesday september 03 2013 encore another delicious franco japanese bistro daily 25 30 blackboard menu one of the recent culinary trends in paris has been the influx of small japanese run bistros doing french cooking many of these young upstarts worked their way through top of the food chain culinary establishments and struck out on their own in popular up and coming neighborhoods 9th 10th 11th with modest tables offering up limited choice tasting menus featuring seasonal produce from cult niche purveyors joel thiebault annie bertin etc accompanied by natural unfiltered wines the chef yoshi morie worked for five years in one of the vanguards of this trend the petit verdot and has now moved on to his own digs encore opened this summer was happily one of the few places open at the end of august so i snagged a table and had one of the best meals of the pre rentrée 30 for three delicious courses a bright crunchy mussels and cauliflower starter flavored with a vadouvan emulsion french indian spice mix and main course of monkfish with mixed cooked and raw vegetables broccoli burnt aubergine all dishes doing a perfect job of creating layers of comforting taste and washed down with well chosen wines from our charming waitress the dessert was the best i ve had this season a violet and fig compote with a timut pepper sorbet cauiflower mussels french indian spice mix emulsion posted by adrian at 11 25 am 1 comment labels 75009 bistro encore paris restaurant yoshi morie wednesday august 14 2013 the sunken chip paris post burger comfort food still has its hooks in the french dining public an hours wait for a camion qui fume burger is proof enough and although us expat anglos have been waiting for years for well done quick grub only a few have got it down pat the latest and one of the greatest is the sunken chip on the rue des vinaigriers vinegar bottle street funnily enough just off of the canal saint martin the tiny place all white tile communal wooden counter and smiling employees is the brainchild of cult bistro roseval s chef michael greenwold and james whelan former monocle magazine employee and owner of the trendy bar l inconnu the concept is simple enough a few line caught fishes from the finnestere region the closest we can get to english fish and chips taste says michael from an up and coming small boat fisherman thomas saracco the all covered in light batter accompanied by well turned out chips and iconic sodas and beer from the uk predictably the place was heaving at the seams with hipsters curious local neighbors french media types and yelpers bloggers and pseudo food writers many of which didn t even come to eat but to check in and take photos posted by adrian at 11 03 am 2 comments labels 75010 chippie fish and chips james whelan l inconnu michael greenwold paris roseval the sunken chip tuesday august 13 2013 howie s homestay chiang mai thailand my recent sojourn throughout the north and south of thailand my first was full of surprises from exceptional expats although perhaps none as enriching as my short stay at howie s the homestay located about 30 minutes outside of chiang mai is a custom built private villa in the foothills of the national reserve it is off of and was the fruit of seven years of work and many millions of dollars the gorgeously landscaped site designed by thai resident and american architect bill bensley he built the next door four seasons embraces the local lanna style of architecture and comports a main villas and a few attendant bungalows a lily pad pond pagoda and infinity pool with mountain views the name a riff on the northern thai city s many backpacker hostels belies one of the most luxurious and comfortable hotels in the country howie a boston born businessman who has been living in thailand for more than 20 years is a perfect companion and the entire complex including their personal kitchen fridges etc are open to visitors howie s advice on the surrounding region is priceless and the delicate generous home cooking from his wife jerri perhaps the best we tasted on our trip believe me it s worth going to thailand just to experience this posted by adrian at 8 50 pm 2 comments labels chiang mai homestay hotel howie s luxury mai rim thailand thursday june 06 2013 restaurant manger paris i m always game for a new address and when john talbott wrote his highest rated review of the year and called this new table some of the most interesting cooking since ze kitchen galerie and condé nast traveller proclaimed manger as the best new restaurant in paris how could i resist located in the same part of the gentrifying 11th as other foody shrines septime and bones this long and lofty restaurant is spacious and luminous the staff many comprised of unemployed people learning the restaurant trade friendly and welcoming and the menu from thirty something chef william pradeleix who worked with darroze at the connaught and at a jean georges outpost in bora bora is nicely turned out fresh innofensive food for the arty bobos that filled the dining room 3à something pr chicks giving the maitre d the bise 50 something photographer with his teenage justin bieber mopped stagiere in tow apparently a few high ranking michelin star chefs have given their input the plaza s michelak has remote controlled the dessert menu and produce is top notch but it just didn t hook me the daily starter of carpaccio of foie gras terrine with strawberries and tiny fava beans was fine but unremarkable the foie gras just a touch boring the mackerel with corn mango and coriander served with a side of pilaf rice acceptable but i just couldn t feel the whizz bang talent my esteemed colleagues detected and although they are doing good things for people in need i m on ze fence with this one and pradeleix is no ledeuil maybe they need a bit more time posted by adrian at 4 23 pm 1 comment labels 75011 condé nast traveler manger paris restaurant william ledeuil william pradeleix wednesday may 22 2013 la haine a table an interesting review rant popped up on le fooding s website the other day in conjunction i guess in some way with the cannes film festival resulting from a meeting at the la fooding event the first in their new series jus de cervelle brain juice a place for criticism praise to report on the times let s see if your mouth is big enough self confessed macdonald s addict french actor mathieu kassowitz discussed table indie food blogger bruno verjus new product driven place not far from the gare de lyon in paris kassowitz a perhaps unlikely candidate to discuss food calls it a subject that is of no interest to him gourmet cuisine is like fashion where you give a kidney to wear something unwearable the price to pay per gram of protein makes me lose my appetite even before i begin to eat all that without even talking about these hipsters elected to a closed off world that only they can understand and appreciate kudos for the hipster blast he goes on describing his dinner drinking a champagne which he generously shares with the entire staff other diners then complains of the price 600 which makes him want to vomit one wonders why he didn t check the menu before he says the idea behind table is to offer good food in the most convivial of circumstances a simple idea that made me want to be generous as well but isn t table just hype the ambassador of cool popular food and goes on to make someone pay 600 for a bottle bought 150 is a lack of taste a lack of respect that needs explanation before a punch in the face ending with the word of advice if you come here bring your own can of coke while certainly not condoning monsieur kassowitz review le fooding which normally shies away from the critical seems to have found an interesting opportunity to tap into a rich vein of iconoclastic foodie rage and doing what they do best helping to democratize a culture that s become too niche and hipstery for many people s taste or have they posted by adrian at 8 26 am 1 comment labels 75012 bruno verjus le fooding mathieu kassowitz paris restaurant table thursday may 02 2013 pakta full of fusion y goodness ceviche where does one go i found myself wondering when you ve created perhaps the greatest upheaval in recent world cuisine el bulli when the steam runs out of the idea which has fueled and inspired thousands of chefs worldwide when molecular gastronomy gives way to new nordic niche cuisines after all those years at el bulli i just wanted to take it easy and have fun albert adria explained to me last night at his hot new table pakta located in an edgy and seemingly uninteresting corner of barcelona across from a massive concrete fire station the thirty something seater with a small japanese style counter at the entrance wooden looms filled with colorful yarn and minimalist tables and wood seating has a vibe that shares both nippon and peruvian influences the restaurant you see is inspired by the same homegrown fusion termed nikkei that sent nobu on his path to fame and fortune here it allows adria to avoid the trappings of a traditional high level japanese restaurant which he thought would be too difficult for him nikkei was grown from japanese immigrants to peru which was the first country to accept them a century ago they brought their own cooking techniques and started to use local produce the result being a natural fusion cuisine the team from waitstaff to kitchen is almost entirely peruvian and japanese with a few spanish mexican and argentians thrown in for good measure and most of them have worked in the adria empire in one form or another either staging at el bulli or gaining experience at the nearby 41 or tickets genial argetinian chef sebastien mazzola the imagination behind these establishments and chef of 41 experience where he will return once his work here is done developed more than 100 recipes for the new concept with japanese head chef kyoko ii for a menu that will probably change monthly at 90 for 25 dishes it s a wild ride for the tastebuds and an incredibly interesting concept that seems to be going somewhere their next establishments bodega 1900 and mexican influenced yauarcan will expand their empire in another completely different direction and i look forward to trying each and every one of them flashed sirloin steak peppers quail egg and potato pillows posted by adrian at 9 20 pm no comments labels 41 experience albert adria barcelona bodega 1900 el bulli ferran adria japanese kyoko ii nikkei pakta peruvian restaurant sebastian mazzola tickets yauarcan wednesday april 10 2013 lobster bar paris jumps on the yankee comfort food bandwagon let s be frank lobster rolls are sexy sandwiches maybe the sexiest sandwich that exists conjuring up images of new england summers secluded beaches the pervasive smell of suntan oil firm delicate meat creamy sauce the crunch of an ever so slightly toasted bun in new england with lobster available pretty much everywhere for cheap it s part of the local culture and collective memory yet still has cachet flash to paris where a new lobster bar has been opened by a former swiss screenwriter pining for an imagined maine seaside childhood that never happened replacing the local maine product for breton bleu with a side of fries and salad for 26 turns out it s just another luxe frenchification of american comfort food the figaroscope says 10cm of limp panini grilled sandwich at 26 find the error and calls them cette arnaque which in french is a nasty word for swindle or theft posted by adrian at 12 02 pm 1 comment labels 75001 bar homard lobster paris restaurant tuesday april 09 2013 goust a surefire way of measuring the excellence of a restaurant is how it haunts you now matter how many stars a certain chef may have or how hot that new bistro chef is or how much science went into the cooking of that astoundingly impossible looking dish the yardstick of true culinary goodness and greatness is gastronomic flashback a dish or dishes that just won t let loose their grip on your primordial taste brain well goust did that to me a week after my meal there with my gastronomic partner in crime alec the second restaurant from the world s number one sommelier as the chin high sign before the door proclaims really is something special and unique in paris opened just a couple months ago by enrico bernardo the youngest world champion sommelier ever this room just oozes charm and class with a cozy modern apartment decor not unlike what my friend and dining partner in crime says a 1960 s lufthansa first class lounge but in a good way it is tasteful and very well designed with lots of attention to detail that s what philippe starck a few tables over said anyway the humble valencia born chef josé manuel miguel who cut his teeth most recently at le bristol as well as at with martin berasategui in spain s basque region creates deceptively simple dishes using french techniques melded with sometimes rare and unusual in paris anyway spanish produce think valencia style rice long cooked in a seafood broth impermeated with the flavor of the sea a tuna tartar with a mango egg and thai basil technically impressive dishes with exceedingly precise temperatures and textures the wine list reads like an eclectic best of from across france spain and italy a 2011 chablis from louis michel 2011 sicilia grillo from firriato a 2011 rueda verdeja from lunton alsdee pinot gres 2010 from weinbach a 2011 volnay from j m boillot finished off with a 10 year old porto tawny grahays the building itself like a transplanted florentine palace adds to the unique setting a reasonable value 3 dish 35 menu is available for lunch but i d suggest saving up your centimes and going for the full blast degustation menu with wine pairings in the evening with your own partners in crime posted by adrian at 11 34 am no comments labels 75001 elephant paname enrico bernardo goust il vino josé manuel miguel paris restaurant wednesday march 20 2013 sven chartier attacked by giant alien oyster at omnivore sven watch out it s behind you posted by adrian at 1 18 pm 2 comments labels food festival omnivore omnivoreparis oyster paris saturne sven chartier wednesday march 13 2013 sabor food magazine get it now time for a personal a...