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description= [or more accurately: the london years];
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d dozens of shops and restaurants we walked to la punta the point which sits on the tip of the little bellagio peninsula with views of varenna mennagio and the mountains to the north we drank cappuccinos and hot chocolate i m still not sure if cappuccinos after 10 am are legal in italy watching the boats flit around the lake and the alps in the distance like most of our time there the sun was warm and a delightfully cool breeze blew we pondered the lake the deepest in europe at 410 meters the big grand hotels of the different towns and the lone villas of the rich and famous dotting the lakeside we left bellagio for varenna a quieter and say us prettier town just across the lake as you approach varenna s bright coloured houses a mix of red yellow and pink sit perched on the water s edge like bellagio the town is a warren of alleys with steep steps leading down to the waterfront with all of the towns it s impossible to know the scale when you re in them as the alley walls close in they could be 500 000 or just 100 we headed over to varenna s two villas with gardens cipressi and monastero which sit right next to each other the gardens of cipressi we re peaceful and cool set on a steep hillside right by the lake and made of a series of terraces we found them a bit run down and also more in the english style and soon moved on to neighbouring monastero this was the italian garden we d been looking for stretching a good 10 minute walk along the lakeshore the garden was an oasis square flower beds pavilions set against the lake statues and manicured trees and hedges this was a true italian garden set beneath a large villa the weather was pretty much mediterranean and we strolled along the shore with the mountains as a backdrop we stopped for a cheeky glass of prosecco on the terrace in the shade to celebrate our anniversary and walked back to the town centre after a light lunch of pizza and caprese salad on the water edge in the town s lively harbour we hopped a ferry back to bellagio just as a light rain began to fall leaving a cloud of mist over the lake we strolled bellagio s gallery of fancy shops for a bit as the rain poured down and then wandered the town s streets stopping into little galleries of local painters selling watercolours and oils of lake scenes our ferry back to lezzeno soon arrived and soon we were home the big event of the evening was dinner at a local agrotourismo madonna de cieppi named after the hilltop church at the agrotourismo s gates with dusk just about to fall we climbed the hill above our airbnb while the place looked close on google maps we found it quite difficult to find it was an extra 800m past where we thought it would be up a steep hill and down a quarter mile path through the woods cars highly discouraged the place is in a clearing set on the hillside with a beautiful panorama view of the lake a perfect spot to watch the sunset we chose the set menu a classic three course italian meal with coffee to finish as darkness fell we dined on a meat and cheese platter a delightful pasta first course with veggies and goat meat a second course of sausage and veal and a tiramisu dessert all with a bottle of red to wash it down a much needed long walk through the forest later and we were home as we left the restaurant we picked up a pamphlet for a boat rental place called airon marine in lezzeno no license needed while we were certainly not qualified boat drivers we thought a motorboat would be the perfect lake como experience at 130 it certainly wasn t cheap but it was way better than chartering a boat for the day plus we got to drive after a quick crash course on motorboat driving watch out for logs don t gun the throttle too fast no sharp turns and park slowly we were on our way jetting along the lake we took a left turn and headed down the southwest leg dodging flotsam from the recent rains along the way we flew down the coast doing a close in drive by of nesso its pretty bridge and homes stacked one above the next standing by the lake shore little villas and small towns studded the shore and the water was an emerald green from nesso we made a beeline for bellagio dodging ferries and taking in the pretty town from the water before stopping in a relatively clear bit of lake for a swim the water was chilly just cold enough to shock the system but refreshing for such a hot day we cruised by varenna and sat right in the middle of the lake for a bit taking in the towering mountains in the distance and watching the different watercraft buzzing around the lake the boat rental guy told us to come back at 2 20 or 2 30 to account for his long lunch break and so we took a very close in slow cruise by the villa del balbianello and massive yellow painted villa at the tip of a peninsula right by the lake it s flowering gardens and well coiffed topiary were iconic lake como one harrowing parking maneuver later and we were walking back towards lezzeno town centre a bit sun baked and ready for lunch we stopped at the aurora hotel with a restaurant open to the lake with very nice views and a sunbathing area we had a quick snack of pizza and panini before heading back to the b and b where we spent the rest of the afternoon sunbathing and reading by the pool the weather the garden and the lake made it a perfect place to bask in the sun our final stop of the trip was ittourismo da abate a restaurant that specialises in como lake fish and whose owner fishes for the restaurant himself daily our meal was quite good with lake fish six ways as an appetizer a bit of lake fish pasta and some very well steamed lake fish with cherry tomatoes capers and lemon it was all tasty though in the end it was still lake fish the next morning saw us getting up at 4 am for a slightly scary winding drive to milan malpensa where getting through security and a twenty minute walk to our gate had us nearly miss our flight rm may 14 2017 leave a comment travel tokyo we hopped on another sakura shinkansen for the trip to shin osaka and then got on the hikari 534 to tokyo for the final three hour leg of our journey dinner was an uninspiring bento box with bento cheaper is often not better after we made a failed attempt to wait in line for hot food we hopped of the train at tokyo central and took the jr chuo line over to shinjuku shinjuku the busiest train station in the world has tens of exits and after some false starts we finally made it to our 5th floor shoebox sized airbnb after an obligatory convenience store coffee sunkus not as great as 7 11 we headed over to the tokyo metropolitan building whose 45th floor free observatory has sweeping views over the vacuity from each of its two towers the city seems to sprawl forever with countless skyscrapers and mt fuji stands tall on the horizon there s some really interesting architecture like the tokyo city hall which has a superstructure of geometric white beams that stand starkly against the black glass interior we roamed south passing through the meiji shrine complex where emperor meiji is entombed he was the driving force behind the modernization of japan and the consolidation of the emperor s power and his decision to cut off his topknot and don a suit instead of traditional garments signaled a major shift towards westernisation the grounds were pretty with a forest filled with beautiful trees seriously are there any ugly trees in japan and a shrine complex where we saw a wedding procession pass by with the yakult swallows baseball game fast approaching the swallows are tokyo s other baseball team the mets to tokyo s yankees the giants we hustled over to the famous shibuya pedestrian crossing where what looks like hundreds of people cross at each green signal we took a cheeky stop up on the 25th floor of the shibuya excel hotel to look down on the crossing evading the hotel s minders who aren t too keen on tourists the view wasn t great so we hopped over to the starbucks and perched just above the crossing to watch the madness definitely the biggest crossing we ve ever seen though our expectations were probably too high we thought it d look busier but rush hour s probably the time to go from shibuya we walked on over to the swallows meiji jingu stadium on the site of a former temple one might argue it still is a temple to baseball on the way we grabbed a couple beers which we had to pour into paper cups before going into the stadium for obvious reasons two beers per person is the max the stadium was a riot of fans clad in swallows gear it was a sold out game is any baseball game in japan not sold out and we were playing the feared hanshin tigers whose fan base along with the hiroshima carps is known as the most rabid in japan japanese fans take baseball very seriously there are volunteers who lead the chants and every player has his own song memorised by all the simplest was home run home run balentein for an american player but even that had a melody and more japanese words tacked on at the end if you run out of personal beer there are a mob of servers mostly women serving draft beer out of kegs strapped to their backs if 7 beers are too expensive you can also get cans for 4 50 the fans are also very polite there s no heckling and only chanting when your team is on offence food is typical baseball fare hot dog over yakisoba korean bimbimbap rice with meat and egg and yakitori the sun was hot the crowd was loud and the beer was cold a lovely way to spend an afternoon the swallows kept things steady for the first few innings but then the pitcher had a meltdown allowing a run in the fourth and a run in the fifth before giving up 5 in the 6th he got yanked and a solo rbi wasn t close to enough to recover the best part was the seventh inning stretch when the crowd all pulled out umbrellas and thruster them up and down in the air matching their chanting there was also a jumbotron rock paper scissors match between a hanshin fan and a swallows fan like the baseball game we lost after the crushing defeat we headed back home so am could work on some grad school bits and then we made our way to ebisu a pretty chill neighbourhood where twenty somethings go to have a few hipster beers and a ramen bowl we spent a bit of time walking around taking a gander at ebisu yokocho a building with thirty or so tiny bars and food places before realising that we needed help making up our mind we turned on ramen beast an app that our host recommended to find ramen places oddly our japanese friend hadn t heard of it it might be our host s side business and settled on suzuran a chinese style ramen place that the app said was the best in ebisu we entered the dark doorway and waited about 15 minutes for seats at one of the ten or so places at the bar you sit looking directly into the kitchen with three people working away oddly quiet and calm the lights are dim and the setting intimate we ordered from the pictures in the menu and quickly realised that we had chosen a two course plus beer menu whoops our japanese skills need some work after the raw tuna salad the tuna melting away like butter we were each served a big bowl of ramen the oil floating to the surface it was divine not too spicy and not too salty but with a hefty meaty broth and perfectly cooked noodles the meat was super flavourful for taste it might have been the best meal of the trip which made us feel better about the way too pricey for ramen price tag of 70 all up from there we met up with rm s friend from college at a nondescript bar chatting over our trip and catching up before heading of to shinjuku s all night neon light district for a stroll the neon lights were blinding and the scene chaotic and we made our way back home to call it a day the next morning we headed straight for asakusa an iconic tokyo neighbourhood we were told we had to go to we stopped at kitchen town a series of stores selling everything you could ever need in a kitchen there were specialty knife shops coffee grinder shops and more we walked on over to the main market area jam packed with tourists browsing stalls selling everything from kimonos to trinkets and past the red gate with a famous four foot tall lantern hanging from it the area was fun but after kyoto we felt we didn t need to spend much time there we used our 1 day toie lines pass which covers some subway routes japanese and particularly tokyo transit is divided between several private operators to hop over to the imperial palace grounds where we spent a while wandering the gardens and the historic palace battlements the garden in inner moat which also houses the current imperial palace was particularly pretty with a picturesque pond with bridges a small bamboo garden and wisteria hanging from a trellis it was an oasis from the city and a great place for a walk after an abortive attempt to get drinks at the prince park tower hotel whose 19 cover charge and 12 beers caused us to rethink our plans we realised we were pretty hungry and headed over to tsukiji market tokyo s famous fish market we had a brief moment of panic when we realised that the fish market was closed am was worried she d never eat again but quickly found a small seafood restaurant district packed with places to eat about half of whom were open they all served bowls of raw seafood over rice and many of them had sushi too we settled on the most trustworthy way to choose in japan when in doubt get in a line sushizanmai was well worth the wait for 1500 we got a fresh raw seafood bowl over rice prepared by a sushi chef right in front of us and we tacked on another three sets of sushi to go with it at 300 each the fish was flavourful and tender and the sushi rice perfect the rolls especially the fatty tuna with green onions and something else were delectable the restaurant itself is an experience with the whole staff shouting out a greeting as you arrive and large tanks of fish set against the wall every once in a while a fish would get taken out and filleted on the spot by one of the chefs at a central cutting board feeling much better after having eaten we took a brief stop at the tokyo tower to see the carp banners that had been strung up for children s day 300 of them less cool then they look in the pictures before heading back to the shinjuku area being our last night we planned on a bit of a night out our airbnb was close to the new york grill on the 52nd floor of the hyatt regency known for being the location where lost in translation was shot we needed to change because of the dress code and the 2000 cover charge past 8 pm meant we needed to hurry we got there at just about 7 40 and had a beer in the dimly lit bar with the unending city lights stretching out below us am naturally opted for a suntory beer making it a suntory time in the distance we could see the sky tree and the streets teemed with activity we left promptly at 8 and soon headed into some of the more famous spots in shinjuku dinner was at a packed yakitori place in omoide yokocho...
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