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i feel like i do he was with me when i traveled solo backpacking in my early 20s in italy his guidebook clutched in my hand i marked phone numbers that led me to the perfect top floor apartment little known beach or gelateria i needed first to find a pay phone yes a pay phone directions were always easy to follow even before online mapping tools and restaurants both authentic and inexpensive pictures of him would be framed in the hostels i stayed in demonstrating the close relationships he fostered with the locals he featured in his books i ve grown up as it so happens to all travelers and have traded my backpack in for luggage roughing it for a bit more comfort and solo travels for family travel his latest article on what s new in europe reminds me again why he still is a wealth of good practical information for those who want to experience real europe and travel slowly in whatever format you prefer using hardback or app paris picasso museum renovation will be completed this june highlights for me include the re opening of one my favorite museums in europe the picasso museum paris marseille s facelift a new gallery devoted to michelangelo at the uffizi in florence a new museum dedicated to dante alighieri in ravenna and milan preparing to host the 2015 world fair read it soak it in rick steves what s new in europe article here via sfgate europe still awaits even the most seasoned europhile 2 comments posted in culture europe italy museums news paris summer vacation travel trips tagged rick steves travel what s new in europe counting caribbean blues in vieques posted on february 27 2014 4 comments vieques puerto rico a small island in the northeastern caribbean an hour by government run ferry from the main island is known for its pristine beaches bioluminescent bays and lack of commercial development strongly influenced by 400 years of spanish ownership but part of the us commonwealth of puerto rico it has a colorful past with its own version of a david vs goliath story starring its fishermen and the us navy that led to the navy withdrawing from vieques in 2003 more on this in a following post but for sixty years the majority of vieques was closed off by the us navy and for this reason the island remained undeveloped for tourism the quality of its beaches and the island s lack of development were key reasons we wanted to spend some time there in late january we took the ferry from the main island town of fajardo to vieques for a three day stay we visited the pristine deserted beaches free of adjacent commercial development on the southern caribbean side of the island featuring turquoise blue seas and white sands surrounded by green vegetation the beaches once the navy s former land are now part of a wildlife refuge and many retain the names the navy gave them we made it to four beaches one more beautiful than the next playa caracas red beach media luna s bathtub media luna surfs up at navio playa navio miles of white sand bahia de la chiva blue beach for me spending time on vieques is summarized well in a piece written by james lasdum for conde nast traveler april 2010 the days of finding myself puzzlingly incapable of organizing a visit to the old fort or whaling museum and wanting instead to lie on those pointless stretches of sand counting the different blues of the caribbean it dawned on me that travel didn t always have to be like college that this drifting sweetness of life being enjoyed purely for its own sake was worth any number of dusty madonnas or worm riddled wooden saints but for now this is all i want of culture and all i need of enlightenment 4 comments posted in nature travel trips tagged best caribbean beaches caribbean caribbean beaches puerto rico travel vieques doorways of old san juan posted on february 3 2014 3 comments just back from the caribbean island of puerto rico and it s all about the doors in old san juan my upcoming post will explore the spectacular beaches and unique history of vieques island but for now i ll share a sample of the many shapes and bright colors of las puertas hermosas i found walking the streets and alley ways in old san juan often behind the doors are gorgeous courtyards the colors of the houses are candy for the eyes n 3 comments posted in architecture photography travel trips tagged old san juan doors photography puerto rico travel travel moments captured posted on january 12 2014 2 comments i look forward each sunday to the the new york times why we travel feature that shares reader photos both online and in its print edition this week s offerings include colorful porto portugal as the clouds break after three days of rain rainbow peeks in mongolia and a boat resting on vernazza italy s harbor the photos shot by average readers while traveling capture the feeling of experiencing a certain moment in a certain place my readers know this no doubt when words just won t do the miracle of the actual writes colum mccann in his latest book transatlantic like many of you i have saved photos of travels past that have left their imprint on me long after the experience i took this photo on the red sea beach of sharm el sheikh egypt s ras mohammed national park in 2001 on this day we joined an italian day group excursion to visit the park located on the southern extreme of the sinai peninsula the only way to go there at least then unplanned an idea to run into the fluorescent water developed quickly among members of the group most who did not know each other before the trip they joined hands i grabbed my camera and got this shot what memorable images have you captured from your travels 2 comments posted in photography travel trips tagged ny times why we travel photography ras mohammed national park reader photos sharm el sheikh egypt travel moments captured the great beauty posted on november 29 2013 4 comments the sf chronicle s picky movie reviewers are notorious for being tough as nails when awarding their highest rating the image of the little man jumping out of his chair and clapping but today s review of just released italian film la grande bellezza or the great beauty for the american market did just that the little man is smiling he s clapping he s jumping and ecstatic his hat even falls to the floor i m ecstatic too and i haven t even seen the movie yet toni servillo stars as jep gambardelle turning 65 jaded from early success as a writer and experiencing an awakening the great beauty is directed by paolo sorrentino and was a big favorite when first previewed at the 2013 festival de cannes lovers of italy can spend more than two hours falling in love again with rome with all its decadence beautiful and ugly while immersing in the language since the movie is in italian with english subtitles the reviewer notes that you can t watch the great beauty without thinking of fellini s la dolce vita with rome as the movie s focus like la dolce vita this movie is going to throw more at you than just a tour of the city s sights and high society an excerpt from the sf chronicle review reads you can read the review in its entirety here toni servillo plays jep gambardelle who wrote a masterpiece of a novel in his youth but has been unable to repeat the success he s become a journalist and bon vivant living in an incredible apartment overlooking the colosseum he s popular in his circle but jaded and having just turned 65 is starting to look at the big picture when news arrives of an old girlfriend s death he continues to make the rounds of high end gatherings and nightspots in the eternal city but in a what s it all mean frame of mind he informs us that once he wanted to be the king of rome s extravagant night world but he no longer wholly buys into his cynicism if he ever did delivering acerbic witticisms at over the top parties isn t much of a purpose in life the plot is a running account of what jep sees and says during his often surreal urban wanderings something to put on the holiday movie list you got me at fellini 4 comments posted in culture entertainment italy media movies reviews tagged italian movies la grande bellezza sf chronicle review of the great beauty the great beauty grazie dal cuore marcella hazan posted on november 14 2013 1 comment marcella hazan food writer and considered one of the foremost authorities of italian cuisine died september 29 at the age of 89 ms hazan married and moved from italy to new york with her american husband in 1955 ironically she never cooked before she got married but later after beginning a cooking school and giving cooking lessons from her home her husband encouraged her to publish her first cookbook the classic italian cookbook in 1973 she believed simple good ingredients lead to delicious dishes and is credited with bringing traditional italian cuisine to the american public thanks to ms hazan s wisdom and detailed quite simple and beautiful recipes i often fry with butter and vegetable oil a must when you make her asparagus risotto instead of extra virgin olive oil when required for better richer and milder taste her essentials of classic italian cooking published 1992 cookbook sits on my counter and is the source of my favorite dishes including braised pork chops modena style and risotto my guide to using herbs and provides extra meaning after the news of her death this ny times article remembering marcella provides more information on ms hazan s life and cooking in honor of ms hazan below is a reprint of her simple and delicious tomato recipe ingredients 2 cups tomatoes with their juices for example a 28 ounce can of san marzano or italian imported whole peeled tomatoes 5 tablespoons butter 1 onion peeled and cut in half salt preparation combine the tomatoes their juices the butter and the onion halves in a saucepan add a pinch or two of salt place over medium heat and bring to a simmer cook uncovered for about 45 minutes stir occasionally mashing any large pieces of tomato with a spoon add salt as needed discard the onion before tossing the sauce with pasta this recipe makes enough sauce for a pound of pasta 1 comment posted in books culture current events food italy recipes tagged essentials of classic italian cooking italian tomato sauce recipe marcella hazan el dia de los muertos posted on october 29 2013 1 comment el dia de los muertos or day of the dead is approaching on november 1st and 2nd this is one of my favorite photos that i included with an earlier post about the celebration of my daughter in front of a beautiful altar at a local art gallery i love this mostly mexican celebration that celebrates life and the spirits of those who have gone before us scholars trace the origins of this modern day mexican holiday to indigenous observances dating back hundreds of years and to an aztec festival dedicated to a goddess called mictecacihuatl you can read more about dia de los muertos here this coming week there will be el dia de los muertos celebrations art exhibits and other educational events taking place throughout cities across the world open for anyone to take part as an observer or a participant click here to link to a celebration i wrote about in our local community i plan to bring photos of loved ones to add to our community s altar set up in a plaza downtown and enjoy the refreshments pan de muertos and hot chocolate watch a columbian dance troupe and participate in a procession if you plan to celebrate or if you prepare a family altar i d love to hear about or see it 1 comment posted in art culture tagged el dia de los muertos autumn plate posted on october 4 2013 4 comments it feels like fall outside it s feels like fall online too inside the community of travel culture literature home and garden bloggers so i bought a new cashmere sweater today in pale pink thanks to these tips for fall travel style from this is my happiness and trusty ciao domenica has offered this inspiration for delicious recipes including a pumpkin spice cake with pumpkin cream cheese frosting the start of a season presents an empty plate ready to be filled with fall s favorite things like slipping on a new warm sweater brewing up tea settling down to a new book or catching a movie for me that means reading caleb crain s debut novel necessary errors set in post iron curtain prague in the early 1990s after the 89 velvet revolution the book is described as coming of age for idealistic young expat americans abroad for longtime bth readers no surprise this book is top of my list i m looking forward to learning more about eastern european history and czech culture the slate review writes it recalls the dreamy pacing of henry james or elizabeth bowan i m also looking forward to returning to our wonderful local art deco theater this season i m still recovering from woody allen s tragic blue jasmine and am ready to enjoy a lighter comedy this fall enough said stars julia louis dreyfus eva and james gandolfini albert who meet and a romance quickly blossoms but eva befriends and gets an earful from a woman about her ex the twist is that she finds out that the ex is albert what s on your autumn plate 4 comments posted in books entertainment living well movies recipes reviews tagged enough said fall favorites necessary errors landscape inspired design at canadian museum of civilization tells a story posted on september 12 2013 1 comment just across the river from ottawa ontario a visit to the canadian museum of civilization in gatineau quebec if only to experience its exterior and grand hall architecture and design is well worth it the museum s limestone exterior curving forms represent the outcropping bedrock of the canadian shield the canadian museum of civilization opened in 1989 and overlooking the ottawa river and parliament buildings was designed by landscape inspired architect douglas cardinal without a single word it tells or rather shows visitors stories of canada s history its native people and culture the ottawa river and parliament buildings of ontario in the background in his design statement cardinal wrote that the building would speak of the emergence of this continent its forms sculptured by the winds the rivers the glaciers four natural features are abstractly represented in the museum s form the canadian shield the glaciers the streams formed by the melting glaciers and the great plains that stretched before the receding glaciers the outdoor water pools represent receding and melting glaciers inside the grand hall with views of the outside water elements look up at the ceiling and you find yourself at the bottom of an enormous canoe the oars become part of the walls it took me to two visits to distinguish this a dozen towering totem poles are placed around the perimeter of the room it is said to be the largest indoor display of totem poles in the world looking up finds you at the bottom of an enormous canoe a wonderful sculpture located in the grand hall the spirit of haida gwaii by british columbia artist bill reid represents the ...