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if i wanted spiritual help i inquired what my options were and was told a rabbi or a priest as a lifelong member of the jewish persuasion i was fairly certain what the rabbi would tell me so i asked for a priest at around 12 30 in the morning a priest from ghana came down to chat i ve always admired the sermon on the mount and the catholic notion of penance and humility even though i m an atheist i spent ninety minutes with the priest discussing how i could do something meaningful for people i did not know and would never know people who could use the help of a wealthy wine importer who has had a fairly blessed lifetime my feeling was that if i was going to die soon i had much to be thankful for that i had lived a charmed existence i love my wife my kids my dog some friends less family and my work the priest tried to inject jesus christ into the discussion several times but i was able to keep our talk on track i knew of partners in health because my son had started university in montréal in 2004 and i heard about the rock group arcade fire their co founder régine chassagne was born in haiti and i read how the group was doing benefit concerts where all the proceeds went to partners in health an organization working in haiti i did a web search and began following the work of pih i decided to do something no matter how small with pih for months i was very busy with chemotherapy radiation and crawling back to shape and was largely self preoccupied i sent in some money organized a couple of events but didn t do enough i am using this space and today s benefit to ask my readers to contribute to pih i am asking my friends in the wine trade to organize events where i will be happy to attend and insult your customers as i do at every public tasting i attend it seems hypocritical to do a wine tasting to raise money for people in such dire circumstances but i m a wine importer and that s the skill i have wine is historically a sacrament and for me a powerful sacrament for humanity not ritual lets combine our love of wine with work to help haitians charities come and go and haiti must not become the flavor of last month please send me e mail and lets figure out what we can do together to benefit partners in health the work they do in haiti has made a difference in so many thousands of lives since 1987 it has changed the lives of people who have no resources people who wealthy republicans and democrats don t give a damn about people who truly need help and can find it if we help partners in health train the doctors nurses and build the hospitals to change lives this will not make us better people more righteous or morally superior i will continue to be a complete asshole but providing basic medical care in the third world through an organization that delivers will help others become better and healthier their motto is whatever it takes their vision is at its root our mission is both medical and moral it is based on solidarity rather than charity alone when a person in peru or siberia or rural haiti falls ill pih uses all of the means at our disposal to make them well from pressuring drug manufacturers to lobbying policy makers to providing medical care and social services whatever it takes just as we would do if a member of our own family or we ourselves were ill partners in health joe dressner 10 17 2010 12 40am 1 comment a marcel lapierre appreciation yes he was a great bon vivant yes marcel made great beaujolais yes he helped reshape the beaujolais i m reading these truisms in all the obituaries that have appeared about le marcel lapierre was an exceptional vigneron and personality but his influence spread far past villié morgon in the early 1980s when industrial farming and winemaking had ravaged the french countryside lapierre lead a movement to fight back and champion nature marcel was the generational transition interpreter and ambassador of jules chauvet it was marcel who popularized chauvet s ideas after chauvet died in 1989 and convinced younger vignerons that chauvet s insistence on natural yeasts working the land without agrochemicals and using minimal sulphur would make beautiful and succulent wines les vins gouleyant an entire generation of vignerons wanted to make wines like marcel wines with no sulphur no additives no spoofulation and no pretense wines overflowing with honesty flavor and nuance marcel acted as this generation s leader with incredible generosity and civility it was if he was born for the role chauvet was a beaujolais négociant and researcher who was never well known during his lifetime a small group including lapierre pierre overnoy jean thevenet worked well with chauvet and appreciated his studies on yeast strains and aromatics chauvet s written works are substantive and too scientific for someone like me but the best proof of his ideas was not a manifesto blog or movement it was a bottle of lapierre s morgon the natural wine movement that marcel inspired was never codified there is no manifesto no rules no codes it was very much a movement of copinage i don t really know a good translation for this word but you might try a google search there were early excesses and there are current failures but over the years lapierre mastered the craft of natural winemaking and his wines even became reliable reliably delicious today s loss is more than a loss for his family and the beaujolais region marcel revolutionized the french and italian wine scene and inspired others to follow he was generous with his time his knowledge and his homemade saucisson particularly le petit jésus cuit it was a privilege to have known him if only slightly there will be a tribute to marcel at ten bells in nyc on tuesday at 7 pm nothing fancy no speeches and plenty of wine from marcel and ses enfants quote joe dressner 10 12 2010 12 25am 1 comment tribute to marcel lapierre tuesday night 7 pm at ten bells in new york not much more to say come raise a cup to marcel joe dressner 10 11 2010 10 40am no comments marcel lapierre i heard this morning about the death of marcel lapierre a great loss for the wine world his friends and family marcel left a legacy of vintages vines students admirers and wines his loss will be felt all over the world but his legacy will always inspire joe dressner 10 11 2010 9 07am no comments in a taxi somewhere in la just got into los angeles eric asimov was talking on my jet blue television set he says to drink whatever wine i like and that i should not be intimidated by experts then someone on the tv suggested going to the m bar somewhere in manhattan this establishment has over 250 martinis and scores of mixologists that s a helluva lot martinis and personnel of course they are featuring the new premium brand louis dressner natural spirits our new spirits are only seven of the spirits on the m list i have spent most of this transcontinental flight trying to figure out what the other 243 spirits could possibly be tonight we launch the natural spirits brands in los angeles the three joey s girls will be there serving canapes and giving mycology tips or maybe that s mixology tips i forget i hope i am alert enough tonight to drink all of our premium high end spirits i get tired on these trips so the firm spends big money on my travel comforts i am seated in the even more legroom section of a jet blue airbus 320 we are staying in beverly hills at the famous beverly hills terrace hôtel and then go to san francisco where we stay at the internationally renowned carlton hotel we better sell some martinis and muscadet in fact that sounds like a slogan martinis and muscadet don t miss denyse and i at 4 pm at domaine la joe dressner 10 3 2010 5 27pm 3 comments the official fourteen point manifesto on natural wine this first appeared on a former fan of natural wine s blog about natural wine since cory renounced natural wine mike steinberger and jon bonné have also recanted the brooklyn wine guy even warned me i was being used by sinister natural forces the problem is that there was never an official faith and never a doctrine the blogosphere and media created a construct milked it for publicity and then deconstructed an ideology that they had helped to define and promote the king is dead long live the next fad in the hopes of clarity i am reprinting this purposely obscurantist and idiosynchratic article i wrote this summer the anti natural wine movement can go fuck themselves i have a lot of respect for cory mike and jon and think it is too bad that they are all acting like kids at a debating club trying to outwit each other let them criticize natural wines they don t like and god knows there are many that i find badly done but the movement to do better work in the vineyards and the cellar is something a journalist should be embracing while criticizing the limititations or flaws of particular growers or wines there is too much egotistical blah blah in the blogosphere and not enough interest or passion about vineyards and how to guide them to bottle the official fourteen point manifesto on natural wine by joe dressner 1 hold your wallet tight when someone tells you they love natural wine all of a sudden it is popular to say you are making natural wines that you are drinking natural wines that you just love natural wines wines come in bottles not slogans and unless you are talking about actual growers vintages or vineyards you are blowing hot air the natural wine movement hates all sloganeering and please leave us out of your exhortations 2 years ago i asked a clerk at brooks brothers how to tie a bow tie she patiently answered that a gentleman either knew how to tie a bow tie or did not know how to tie a bow tie the same applies to natural wine if you have to ask what natural wine is then please reintroduce yourself to the flavors smells and textures of nature the natural wine movement can help you but you must do most of this work yourself 3 the natural wine movement is not a movement with a leader credo and principles if you think there is a natural wine movement sweeping the world triumphantly slaying industrial wineries and taking no hostages then you are one delusional wine drinker the natural wine movement thinks that you might want to lessen your alcohol consumption for a few months 4 but wouldn t life be simpler if we had just one big category of natural wine to direct the poor consumer who is faced with so many baffling options the natural wine movement believes that wine is complicated and turning wine into neat categories is what made america and madison avenue great but not what makes one romorantin taste better than another poulsard and that doesn t even leave room for counoise and pinot fin broad categories are great for soda juice low carbon footprint beverages eating and drinking locally and romance novels leave natural wine alone 5 the poor consumers facing so many baffling choices are not really so confused they need to learn how to trust and explore their tastes if they like crappy industrial wine why slap them around let them learn and go with their instincts eventually they will come around the pointists and tasting notes crowd are obscurantists who wants them to believe it takes the training of a brain surgeon to appreciate wine the natural wine movement believes everyone has the right to drink and eat badly to watch horrible movies read crappy books and watch csi las vegas csi miami or csi new york forensic evidence tells us that wine drinkers can mature and blossom and find nuance more charming than the world of awesome and mind blowing 6 jules chauvet used to say being determines consciousness the natural wine movement doe not expect the wine industrial complex to be won over to natural fermentation low sulphur and what have you even if it were it would still be making unfathomable undrinkable stuff stop condemning the parkers rollands eisenmeyers wine spectators cult wineries with 16 degree swill southern wine spirits and the andre tamers of the world actually andre tamer is a very good importer of spanish wine but i have a grudge against him with good reason and threw his name in here for no other particular reason honestly they live in another world than we do 7 please leave us alone great natural wine is made in small quantities and there will never be enough to go around industrial wine can satisfy thirst i suppose as can water diet sprite tomato juice from local farmers and gatorade if everyone jumps on the natural wine bandwagon there will be a tendency to get bigger to satisfy demand and quality will be compromised we will be overwhelmed by corporate types who want to cash in on the next big thing we ll have to form a new movement and find a new vague concept that hipsters all over the world will embrace like real wine the natural wine movement likes to drink in peace and doesn t want to become a marketing scheme for bloggers wineries retailers distributors importers with brain cancer journalists and virtual reality television shows we like being marginal 8 the natural wine movement abhors earnestness please don t tell us your stories about leading a sulphur free life and how wild yeast fermentation made you kinder to your loved ones and pets humorless activism to promote wine is an oxymoron getting smashed eating well and laughing with good friends are key to our movement we actively campaign for the drinking age to be lowered to sixteen year old like in good old france we also enjoy being contemptuous of other people around us somewhat randomly particularly when we are on the second or third bottle 9 another thing we dislike is self importance the wine milieu is saturated with so many very important people it makes the mind dizzy the wine spectator even organizes events for the very important to meet their very important peers from all around the world the natural wine movement does not attend these conferences we don t go to the miami aspen boston denver houston phoenix elmira or washington wine week celebration we re not important enough to attend and don t want to become that important 10 sure there are big shots even in our marginal milieu certain vignerons certain importers certain restaurateurs and certain major private drinkers we do our best to rotate big shots searching as far as the former czechoslovakia for media darlings we re a democratic group based on the french principles of liberté fraternité et copinage the natural wine movement knows no lider maximo and is dedicated to the notion that we can all be rené mosse for one day by the way i m not sure what copinage means but it sounds good 11 is there really a difference between natural biodynamic real and organic wines there sure is but is it really productive to blab about the differences we like mystery and suspense and so do you or you wouldn t be glued to your television sets watching csi new york the natural wine movement hates precision detail and facts for instance when someone asks a member of the natural...