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moor and the mountain as heather the greatest honey of the british isles nothing quite captures that dryness that utter reckless wildness of the moor and the mountain as heather the greatest honey of the british isles there are three native heathers that grow on the heaths of suffolk the bell the cross leaved and the ling the first two bloom in summer and are the heathers of the summer solstice but it is the third that is the best known that is treasured by bees and their keepers as it spreads its purple coat all over the wild lands of britain over the hills of scotland and wales across the moorlands of the north and here along the east anglian seaboard in august in some places you can see the surname ling carved on the ancient gravestones of coastal suffolk the word comes from anglo saxon meaning fire in some places you can see the surname ling carved on the ancient gravestones of coastal suffolk the word comes from anglo saxon meaning fire before enclosure ling was a vital plant in the life of commoners on these heaths the flowers of the heather not only provided honey and ale but its branches were used for thatch baskets brooms ropes and bedding its roots for nails it grew alongside the bracken and gorse that provided litter and fuel the oaks that gave acorns for pigs and the grasses for geese cattle and sheep in the seventeenth century a quarter of england was waste that is wild land that was collectively used by the people rather than the property of individuals today this is now less than one third of one per cent when i come to suffolk i start to walk the cinder tracks that crossed these ancient heaths across dunwich tunstall blaxhall across the heathy commons of leiston westleton and walberswick these territories are quite different i discover from any other of suffolk s coastal woods fens meadows even though they are managed by councils and the national trust their relationship is still with the people left central path across dunwich heath right bell heather exhibit southwold museum suffolk in a weekly wild flower exhibition i coordinate during one summer a sprig of heather sits in a jam jar on the windowsills of the southwold museum and i find myself uncharacterisitically veering away from botany in 1624 sir robert brooke landowner set up a boarding house for men and dogs to drive out commoners cattle from walberswick common in order that the land could be enclosed for his own use a terrible fight took place in which four men lost their lives and the place was named bloody marsh these men were resisting an enclosure of land by force which began with the arrival of norman kings who claimed the wild forests and was completed by parliament who claimed the rest of the wild land for agriculture all civilisations have to raid and enclose for the benefit of their rulers that is the nature of all parasitic systems what suffers under its cruel and contemptuous rule are the natural host systems the wildlands and the hearts of the people the pauperism suffered by the dwellers of the suffolk sanderlings a result of enclosure was the worst in all england they suffered the kind of poverty and despair found among all relocated native peoples in australia africa indonesia and the americas today all the lands that the heirs of the norman conquerors went on to raid and still do in their present corporate form in every rainforest every last marsh and mountain of the world as i crossed the commons heaths and warrens i found myself walking a time line that stretched across the world through the golden yellow of the gorse and the purple ling past the history of the rabbit also a legacy of the normans and the blackfaced sheep who keep the heaths from reverting into forest i walked a time line that mapped the struggle for human liberty the commons were the meeting places of the people resisting medieval peasants the east anglian bread riots chartists i watched activists gathering at the nuclear power station of sizewell heard the guns of the landowners all around me i followed the sheep tracks through bracken and birch and entered the kingdom of the adder the lizard the linnet and the glow worm there i lay among the bright green moss and the tiny toadstools ate blackberries under a rowan tree waited until dusk for the whirring of the nightjar as the moon rose and lit the seashell track all the way down to the singing sea toward a different heritage we share under the starlit sky the whirring of the nightjar as the moon rose and lit the seashell track all the way down to the singing sea toward a different heritage we share under the starlit sky when i walk across dunwich heath in 2006 i take a different route i walk from eastbridge across the marshes with dykes full of marshmallow the broom bushes rattling their pods and approach the heath from the dunes it is early september and the ling is at its height as i turn onto the main track i suddenly feel intensely irritated mean thoughts enter my mind i start looking most suspiciously at the two people coming towards me for goodness sake charlotte i say to myself you are here to see the heather but somehow i can t concentrate on the heather as i feel overwhelmed with negative thinking the people walking by don t look any more agreeable than i do we are all scowling like mad wishing we had the path to ourselves what a crew i think to myself and avert my gaze to the ground oh it s the track i realise and immediately i step off it and plunge into the unmapped heather as soon as i do all the fury inside me disappears released from my inner turmoil the heath opens its arms everywhere there are purple flowers and sky i head towards minsmere making my own path high stepping through the bushes following the line of fire breaks no one is in view the ling is dotted with bristly low gorse and young scots pine the sky full of racing clouds i feel intensely free the sun pours down on us all as i climb the hill red deer appear as if from nowhere their heads emerge from the heather one by one until the whole herd stands and watches me as i stumble by off track lost but at home home is a place the heather leads you sometimes without realising i go through the heather and get lost even when i know the track i lose my sense of direction and find myself somewhere else or i come across someone who asks me the way or who has lost their dog dreaming of heather i find myself at a crossroads watching people going down paths across the common all of the paths are dead ends are you alive i ask one woman but she is dead another appears and tells me we have saved the romany girl she is found but this evangelist is no more alive than anyone else in 1998 another german visionary walks across dunwich heath and gets lost he is walking a time line that goes in the opposite direction to a radical future in 1998 another german visionary walks across dunwich heath and gets lost he is walking a time line that goes in the opposite direction to a radical future his name is wg sebald and he is on his way to visit the translator of his first work michael hamburger who lives in the village of middleton on the other side of the heath sebald is collecting material for a book that will make his name it is called the rings of saturn the book is about a walk a particular walk in time in which if you do not follow the clues you will find yourself walking into a trap history is doomed to repeat itself it is like the rings of saturn an exploded moon whose form fascinates everyone who gazes at its coloured detritus which whirls endlessly round and round out of this meaninglessness at certain points in time appear writers and philosophers who have walked along this suffolk coast some of them are aristocrats eccentrics who break the mould sebald recounts their stories as their houses and their histories are washed away by the ceaseless waves of the north sea which he calls the german ocean sebald becomes confused on dunwich heath oppressed by its lack of signposts finds the purple ling dingy and oppressive he is walking in the dog days of august when everything is dying down and becomes stagnant a time when even the birds have ceased to sing afterwards he dreams of the heath as the figures of myth and history enact their meaningless dramas of horror on the shore the heath in his dream becomes a labyrinth in many ways the book itself is a labyrinth one in which the readers are given a thread woven by the silk weavers of norwich cultured by the peasants of china a thread that leads us not out of its convoluted passages but towards the minotaur the beast who will one day feed upon us as saturn once ate his own children in this sebald is no ariadne he is writing from the position of daedelus the mythical constructor of prisons the labyrinth of crete created by daedelus was a remnant of the minoan culture that was washed away by a great tidal wave caused by the eruption of santorini in the aegean at the centre of this culture was the goddess of the honeybee known as the mistress of the house ceremonial dances were performed in her honour by women dressed in skirts shaped like beehives while men cavorted and leapt over wild bulls of all nectar loving insects including wild bees the honeybee is particular instead of flitting from one type of flower to another it works one flower at a time when bees return to the hive they dance on the floor of the hexagonal honeycomb making a map of how to return to these flowers the minoan dances orientated to the sun were a map that showed how to reach this place within and return and thus keep our relationship with the earth in harmony the arena of these intricate dances was once known as ariadne s dancing floor when this female based culture disappeared the heroic male culture of greece turned its labyrinthine dance into a fortress in its centre they kept the demonised bull the minotaur totem of the star venus and turned the mistress of the house later their bull slaying hero s accomplice into a spider the world constructed in their wake was a prison labyrinths are seen everywhere in europe and the middle east they live on the rocky shores of the northern lands of finland and norway they appear like spiderwebs on desert rocks and baskets in arizona and nevada on the floors of medieval french churches in the ancient celtic dances of the summer solstice some of them are traps a way of holding spirits but some lead towards the sun in the centre of all things some of them take you home the heather takes you off the path when you are going down the wrong track along the lines of empire the heather takes you off the path when you are going down the wrong track along the lines of empire the minoan labyrinth was a prison but beneath this labyrinth is a map the rings of saturn go meaninglessly round and round you get confused you find yourself in a maze overwhelmed by choices stuck in your mind but the map leads you to the centre towards the heart in the centre of the hive sits the queen bee at the zenith of the solar year she presides over the harvest months of july and august season of all heathers beloved food plant of the bee in the centre of her being is the sun organising everything in our lives for our highest development when you lose track of history among the heather that s when you find her dancing floor walking home across dunwich heath there is a patch of heather at my feet a smell of honey in the air warmth on my face dragonflies rest on the stems of the small bushes their folded azure wings glint in the sunlight one lands on me swivelling its eyes and polishes its pincers its forelegs sink down in three precise jerks we sit there in the small windless patch over our heads the clouds race and scud you see that patch of sky said my grandmother in the english garden of yew hedges it s enough to make a pair of sailor s trousers soon the sky will be all blue you see the hole in the clouds said karen in the andean valley of immortality that s the whole so long as we pay it attention you see that patch of heather in this last corner of wilderness in the world that s enough to remember your wildness when you go there when you find the honey you will know you have found your way home it s our last stand our last rebellion why are the flowers radical why is the honey scented heather radical because when you speak with the queen bee who is yourself you stand in the centre of the universe when you bring harmony to bear at the centre of your being you become the lady of the house you have gone out to visit the flowers and at the turning point you have come back to the core this dance of the self aligned with the sun is the dance the old order does not want to happen for when we begin this dance the prison will collapse and their rule will end we will have come home to ourselves and once you are home no one can persuade you to leave something within us knows this even though we are born into places quite opposite to our natures no matter how much our house has told us we should have such and such manners and our school that we should think in such and such way always we take a path that is uniquely our own i lived in a road named after the cold blooded scientist whose mechanistic rules still dominate our consciousness and attended a school in a church hall whose autocratic cold blooded god still lays claim to our souls and yet my dance took place outside these labyrinths because i was born with the taste of honey on my tongue i have long since forgotten the lessons i learned in these places but of the times i boarded the number 52 bus and sailed through the tops of the trees when i considered the fate of the matchman tasted the sweet grapes of spain and a large woman put a small bunch of gypsy heather in my hand i remember everything for that is the path my life took the path that led to quite different conclusions about the world than the one described by my parents and teachers your own path is always radical because it leads away from the mind and walks towards the heart it returns to its place of origin like the salmon against all odds it s radical because it puts you in the centre and commands that you create a warmth and a vibrancy so that all in your house can speak in harmony a position that can coordinate the flight paths of 50 000 bees pollinating a million flowers that become seeds and fruit for all living beings and keep the whole world turning no institution no school or god or family can teach you to take up that position only the heart will lead you there only the heart will lead you home your own foolish and fiery child s heart it has to be that way because it is a path of love this is h0w the day began swallow otrganics polytunnel with san pedro at the end in flower photo yash lad this how it ended the road through dunwich heath after the fire photo national trust you can donate to help the recovery of dunwich heath via the national trust here thanks for reading everyone the red tent will b...
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