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Text of the page (random words):
de with speed sewing techniques was it hemmed before applying trim no no such nonsense here the raw edges were pressed 1 4 to the right side and the trim was then machine stitched down to cover the raw edges slick the subsequent seams were also sewn together in a beautiful time saving way you make a sandwich of the linings right sides together and the fabric right sides together and sew them all as one then fold out and press raw edges are all enclosed this should only however be done on loose fitting garments that won t need size adjustments after i got the whole back together i sewed the front fabric yoke since this wrapper is lined with a fitted lining down to the high hip i sewed the mother hubbard front separately from the lining then sewed it to the lining at the shoulder i then sewed the shoulders together with a flat felled seam felled on the outside and sewed the side seams pocket went into the right side seam belt went in the sides and wing ruffles went on the shoulders what s wrong with my ruffle this was when i realized that my little standing ruffle was not level so i fixed it that was annoying next was to sew the buttonholes then sew down the trim outlining the yoke and to make and apply the collar and binding it really started to come together at this point the trim stitching holds the bottom of the yoke to the fitted lining the mother hubbard front is loose below that back yoke detail last was the sleeves with their loose non opening cuffs and trim and the skirt flounce with its little standing ruffle the skirt itself is actually quite narrow above the flounce about 84 including seam allowances the flounce is three widths of 44 fabric seamed together with a 2 hem the sleeves are not very puffy coming as they do at the very end of the 1890s however the shoulder ruffles really make up for the lack of actual sleeve puff 1898 dress front 1898 dress back before the flounce i also applied a patch pocket like on the original edged with trim at the top it should come in handy pockets for all another thing i d like to mention is that this wrapper buttons left over right this is actually super common in the late victorian era overlaps were not yet standardized for women s clothing and were often left over right instead of right over left i decided to make mine left over right since the original did so i haven t worn this dress at all yet i m of course waiting for the summer season at stuhr to start but i ll likely first get to wear it sometime in may pictures then i promise oh and because this was my project for the march historical sew monthly challenge here are the details for that make something to wear around the historical house what the item is 1898 readymade wrapper material reproduction cotton print pattern self drafted from an original year 1898 notions 6 china buttons thread how historically accurate is it 90 i actually got to historically use machine buttonholes but i used poly blend thread throughout the dress hours to complete 12 first worn not yet this summer at stuhr total cost 45 share this share on facebook opens in new window facebook share on x opens in new window x share on pinterest opens in new window pinterest share on reddit opens in new window reddit share on tumblr opens in new window tumblr email a link to a friend opens in new window email print opens in new window print like loading published in 1890 s costumes historical victorian on april 13 2018 at 9 51 pm comments 1 an 1893 hunting suit from harper s bazaar many years ago i bought a book of plates from harper s bazaar if you re a costumer you probably know the one put out by dover big thick thing with a slightly weird shade of brown cover full of designs from 1869 through 1899 one in particular that caught my eye was this plate from fall 1893 lady s hunting costume i am a country girl and grew up shooting and hunting and this plate just enchanted me here was a very proper lady all dressed in the proper costume for hunting and she s got her own shotgun and a shotgun shell belt she s not some flighty lady who only sits inside and drinks tea she goes out and has fun in the great outdoors so i dreamed about this ensemble for years in 2012 i posted this picture on facebook saying i hoped to make it soon i finally bought the wool in spring of 2016 but stalled it had to be perfect and i didn t feel my tailoring was up to snuff yet finally this year my husband told me to just make it for the state make it with wool contest so now i had a deadline two months out leor helped warm up my wool i dug out my wool pulled down my slopers and started drafting for the skirt i simply cut off my favorite skirt pattern at a length that would just hit the top of my calves when finished and took just a little bit of fullness out of the center back i omitted my standard haircloth interlining and simply lined the skirt with sateen so as not to bind on the wool knickers and faced the hem with a deep twill cotton facing i decided to machine stitch the hem as this needs to be a durable skirt rather than fancy and machine stitched hems were surprisingly common in the 1890 s this is where i discovered the need for a walking foot i did not own a walking foot had my fabric been a herringbone tweed rather than a plaid it probably would have been fine but there was a definite jog in the hem right at the three rows of topstitching so i ordered in a walking foot and tore out the hem and redid it so much better walking foot in use topstitching the moral of this story is that walking feet are the most awesome thing and you all need one too i used it for almost the whole rest of this ensemble the bodice was pretty easy and straight forward to draft and not too terribly difficult to put together i used my skirt pattern again for the peplum and lined up the front left bodice overlay with the edge of the front panel it worked amazingly well that way the left bodice and right lining button together at center front and take most of the strain of the closure while the overlay on the left side is an extension of the right bodice and just hooks over at the waist and shoulder i used a sleeve lining from a shirtwaist to make the actual sleeves just the right shape and fussed around with my standup collar pattern to make the opening at the right place i moved the pocket from the right breast to the right hip because a pocket on your chest right where you will shoulder your gun is an exceedingly bad idea but pockets are always awesome i also have a hidden large pocket in the skirt right between right side and right back pockets i bound all the edges of the bodice peplum and the inside of the collar with bias made from the plaid because i am insane i pattern matched it it was also mostly cut from scraps because why cut bias out of good large pieces you could use for something else when you have scraps so then pants knickers jodpurs my wonderful friend marna of the domestic lady s dressmaker helped me with the pants sending me instructions for drafting my own to size from edwardian ladies tailoring the twentieth century system of ladies garment cutting 1910 by j c hopkins i know it is from the 1910 s but it was that or basically a drawers pattern with the crotch sewn shut which would not be that fantastic for actually doing daring things in and i have also seen riding pants patterns for women similar from the 90 s so that all turned my brain inside out all the points in the draft seemed to be pretty arbitrarily named a b 1 4 etc but the first and only mockup fit really well tada mockup accomplished so the pants went together well with a regular placket and waistband like a skirt i made them of the same wool as the rest of the ensemble the last step was the leggings or spats or gaiters however you want to call them my husband had promised to help me with this project so heeheehee duct tape fixes everything see the gaiters have to fit over the pants at the top but they have to fit snugly to the legs so the best way to accomplish making a pattern is to put on your shoes stockings and pants slip on a trash bag and tape up your leg this is easier if your husband is willing to tape you up i drew a line for the center front seam and very very very carefully cut myself out i was then able to cut apart the taped pieces into my pattern pieces and trace and add seam allowances then it was an entire evening of buttonholes and another entire evening of buttons to finish the next morning was nebraska make it with wool this is my friend alyssa during the same time as i was making this hunting suit she was working on this lovely ensemble which is a different color copy of a suit in the platte county museum in columbus she learned how to draft her own patterns and use a lot of victorian sewing techniques in making this dress and i am very proud of her she won the senior division of the make it with wool contest i styled my hunting suit as a hiking suit for the competition because my cartridge belt wasn t done yet i had an awesome guy in a local leather shop make one for me and carried a walking stick my hat came to me as a ratty old thing but i cleaned it steamed it into shape again and put new feathers on as the old ones were completely falling apart i used two pheasant feathers given me by my friend lisa really this would make an awesome victorian hiking costume as well i earned first in the adult division at make it with wool of course no historical ensemble is complete without a quality photoshoot also i need proper photos to send to nationals so yesterday my husband and i went out to do just that my friend ross lent me his absolutely amazing 1877 english pape 16 gauge side by side shotgun it is fully engraved with damascus barrels i really don t know if i ve ever held a more beautiful gun he also lent me a pheasant rooster he shot on thanksgiving day with that very gun and promptly froze to use as a prop my dad tagged along for the photoshoot as well to help carry things i never felt restrained by this ensemble as well i was able to move just as comfortably as in a t shirt and jeans actually i have greater range of motion in these pants than in my favorite pair of jeans and a well fitted sleeve is a joy to wear i would like to see every woman know how to handle guns as naturally as they know how to handle babies annie oakley we took some hiking photos as well for some variety i will close by saying that this is probably my favorite ensemble to date of course i say that almost every time i finish something and this ensemble has really shown me how no seamstress stands alone from marna who helped me with resources for the knicker pants pattern and taught me how to draft my own patterns my mom who encouraged me and went with me on several hobby lobby trips for thread fabric and buttons and also last year told me about the garage sale where i found the hat and the 1840 s dress my husband who put up with my sewing mess taped up my gaiters pattern made my walking stick and also came with me to make it with wool even though i know he would be bored and gave him a free pass to skip out to the leather shack in central city for the awesome belt lisa who gave me pheasant feathers ross who lent me a beautiful historical gun for the photoshoot my dad who tagged along and lugged things out into the back pasture for photos and all my friends who encourage me whenever i embark on crazy sewing adventures for all your love and support i am eternally thankful none of my endeavors would be possible without all of you god intended women to be outside as well as men and they do not know what they are missing when they stay cooped up in the house annie oakley share this share on facebook opens in new window facebook share on x opens in new window x share on pinterest opens in new window pinterest share on reddit opens in new window reddit share on tumblr opens in new window tumblr email a link to a friend opens in new window email print opens in new window print like loading published in 1890 s costumes historical victorian on november 27 2017 at 5 10 pm comments 2 tags costume costumes gaiters historic hunting knickers suit victorian wool costume college 2017 what a week i am mostly recovered now and my thoughts on the week are more or less settled it was a lovely time with lovely people in lovely clothes at a lovely location short version the end long version this was my first year teaching how crazy and insane is that this was also the first year with all day thursday workshops and i ended up being one of the first teachers for the first thursday workshops yikes i taught understructures of the victorian skirt as a workshop on thursday to four students we got a good start on our skirts with everyone at least getting their panels all flatlined and interlined laying out fabric so that was all day thursday in the evening there was the pool party it was disney themed but i didn t feel like making anything new so i wore my birka viking clothes because vikings lords of the sea water pool party i m a pretty viking princess at the pool party i met this really fantastic group of ladies who also did not follow the disney theme vintage star trek these girls are all my heroes forever friday it was hit the ground running for classes and classes first up was my lecture on victorian knitting i think it was overall well received i really like knitwear so this was a good time for me to share my love of wool victorian knitting there is a disturbing lack of knitwear in this photo but trust me i brought such as i have so far and would fit in my suitcase photo taken by my friend kristina who i finally met in person at coco after the knitwear class i had a quick lunch and ran off to my nålbinding class as usual all my students were brilliant and were able to pick it up i m always very pleased with my nålbinding students with no time for a proper supper it was time for the friday night social i ate something i just can t remember what the theme was our favorite spies it was so much fun to see all the spies from pop culture and history in the great hall as well as the other characters historical non historical and more i wore my soutache walking suit which still doesn t have a blog post of its own i ve mostly been gleaning photos that other people took of it from costume college also because i didn t take a lot of photos and the lighting wasn t awesome in the public photo space soutache i will never not love the back of this bodice i really kindof wish now i had made it into shotwell booth to get a professional photo taken not that that would help me for the blog here and now oh well saturday i didn t dress up for real i decided that for my whirlwind schedule it would be better to be comfy and easily able to maneuver through groups of other people first up i had a wonderful victorian purse class with lynn mcmasters i made an acceptable purse in the end however as all good projects will do it taught me more about what not to do and ...