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ching the dolmen we saw signs for hazel mountain chocolate a factory and shop along the way we decided to pull in and have a look at the front of the property is a cafe but you need to walk around the back to a display area and the chocolate shop a few other people arrived at the same time as us and we walked in together to be greeted by an enthusiastic blonde woman who asked us if we wanted to try some cacao water she poured into paper cups from a can and we tasted the drink it was fizzy and sweet slightly fruity and had a chocolatey aftertaste the woman explained that it was the cacao fruit flavour so it was more sweet than chocolatey it was pleasant though i m not a big drinker of sweet drinks she also gave us samples of a 72 cacao dark and a 40 milk chocolate she explained that they roast their cacao beans only very gently not burning them like many other chocolate makers do so their chocolate had less bitterness and they can use less sugar in it both were really good we browsed around the shop and looked through some large glass windows at the factory area where a large machine like a cement mixer was churning some cacao beans or something and there were vats full of molten chocolate and sacks of cacao beans we ended up buying a few bars of chocolate to take home for gifts back on the road it was a short drive to poulnabrone dolmen this is a simple site with a small visitor car park and no facilities there were about ten other people at the dolmen as we arrived but they departed as we approached on the walking track from the car park so we had the whole dolmen area to ourselves for several minutes until some more people arrived the dolmen was roped off but we could walk right around it about ten metres back the landscape was tricky though being eroded limestone with lots of ridges and potholes large enough to take a foot so we had to be very careful walking around not to trip or twist an ankle it was also very cold and windy the dolmen was situated on a slight rise in the middle of extremely exposed terrain ad the wind whipped around us making it very uncomfortable from poulnabrone we drove to the small village of doolin where we stopped for lunch there wasn t much there a pub or too a cafe and a couple of shops with some surrounding houses we went into fitz s pub where i tried their atlantic seafood chowder with treacle bread while my wife had focaccia with hummus and sun dried tomato dip the food was good as we ate a large party of people dressed in formal suits and dresses arrived apparently wedding guests drifting in over several minutes from doolin it was a short drive to the cliffs of moher one of the major tourist attractions of ireland the car park here was huge compared to the one at poulnabrone and they charged 15 per adult for parking and admission to the site hundreds of other tourists were all over the place we parked the car and got out and were almost blown away by the wind it was much stronger here than at poulnabrone we could barely stand and it was difficult closing the car doors against the wind i had to help my wife get her jacket on as she couldn t get the sleeve in the right position with the wind ripping it away we dashed across the car park and the road to the visitor centre which is dug into a hillside we rested in there for a few minutes to steel ourselves to face the wind again i pulled out the hood of my jacket which i rarely ever use and tightened the drawstrings around my face and over my hat to make sure it wouldn t blow away then we braved the wind again to walk over to the actual cliffside and to see the famous cliffs themselves they were rather different to what i expected i was kind of expecting them to be white like the cliffs of dover but they were dark grey rock they looked quite dramatic against the grey sky and the hostile looking atlantic ocean far below in places there were great spumes of sea spray blowing up the cliffs and over onto the land walking through some of this to another lookout position was like walking through a heavy rain we saw the two main viewing areas which offered views to the north and the south the sun came out as we were at the southern lookout looking north and the cliff there was beautiful in the sunlight but we didn t linger too long before scurrying back to the visitor centre to rest out of the wind for a while after looking through the gift shop we braved the wind again to return to the car and depart i think it had died down a little compared to when we d arrived but it was still pretty miserable we enjoyed getting into the car and closing the doors from here we headed to limerick it was about 80 minutes of driving and the only stop we made was shortly past the cliffs to refuel the car which was down to about a quarter of a tank filling it took 22 29 litres at 1 989 per litre for a total of 44 33 we drove on some really narrow roads which required pulling over in some places to let other cars pass slowly we made it on to wider roads and then highways and freeways which took us into limerick limerick is a much bigger city than galway limerick has high rise towers which i don t think we even saw anywhere in dublin we again parked the car at a parking station near the hotel where we ll get a discounted overnight rate from the hotel we unpacked the car and went down to the ground floor in a lift and emerged to the surprise of heavy rain falling it hadn t been raining at all when we drove in a few minutes earlier we pulled out our umbrellas and set out for the hotel but i recognised at the end of the block that we were near the waterfront which seemed wrong so i checked maps and found we d gone the wrong way and had to backtrack so we were a bit wet when we finally found the hotel and entered to check in after a few minutes to catch our breaths and dump luggage in the room we emerged again to look around the centre of limerick before dinner and the rain had stopped we walked around several blocks of the central shopping and dining area stopping in an irish handcrafts shop to look at some of the things there eventually we decided to find a cozy pub for dinner and i searched and found the locke bar just across the river we walked over there and it began raining again as we reached the river and the bridge inside the pub we got a table by the window and had some drinks and did some artwork until we were ready to order food my wife had the pumpkin and carrot soup with brown soda bread while i had the beef and ale pie which came with chips and mushy peas while my wife was painting a woman from the table next to us came over and asked her about what brushes she was using she has pentel water brushes which have a plastic tube handle that can be filled with water and a squeeze mechanism to wet the brush head for painting they re great for travelling as you don t need a separate bowl of water the lady said her daughter paints and would love such a thing so wanted to know where to buy them my wife gave her the product name and i searched for it on my phone and showed her and she took a photo of my phone so she could remember the food was good my wife continued painting a bit afterwards until we were ready to leave we walked back to our hotel and sat in the bar restaurant for a while to do more artwork and typing up this diary before retiring for the night posted on 2026 10 24 categories daily update tags travel leave a comment on uk ireland trip day 8 poulnabrone dolmen cliffs of moher uk ireland trip day 7 corlea trackway roscommon castle we got up just after 07 00 my wife slept well but i m still struggling to sleep through the night we searched online for somewhere to have breakfast but found that longford isn t quite as cosmopolitan as dublin most of the cafes didn t open until 09 00 and we found contradictory information online about two cafes that supposedly opened at 07 00 or 07 30 or 08 00 depending what web source you believed one near our hotel was the coffee corner allegedly open for breakfast at 07 30 we walked the short distance there and the place was closed and dark inside it was bitterly cold out so we didn t want to wait there to see if anyone arrived and opened up so we returned to our hotel room to take stock i did some more searching and found another place called fabiani cafe that was also supposedly open at 07 30 it was a longer walk in the other direction but the only option i could find so we set out again but when we emerged we could see the lights on at the coffee corner so we walked over there to check it out it was indeed open now and we went in and said we wanted breakfast the woman who had opened the cafe said they weren t serving breakfast just coffees she added that nowhere would be making breakfasts this early but we walked the other way to check out fabiani they were open and when we said we wanted breakfast the woman there said we could only have the non cooked breakfasts at the moment but that was fine as we wanted the granola bowls which came with fruit and yoghurt so we sat and ate those and they were pretty good the one woman was serving everyone who came in and a queue developed for people ordering coffees as she took one order then stopped to make it and only then took the next person s order before we left i wanted to get one of the very delicious looking sweet treats they had amazing looking cookies with choc chips and oats but i decided on a piece of the hedgehog slice as well as the usual biscuit chunks in the chocolate matrix it also had what looked like m ms and bits of marshmallow i asked the woman for a piece of the hedgehog slice to take away and she looked at me strangely i pointed at what i wanted and she said oh the biscuit slice i felt compelled to explain that in australia we call that a hedgehog so that she didn t think i was weird another interesting thing we ve noticed is all the halloween decorations everywhere almost every shop and cafe has some sort of halloween themed decorations pumpkins autumn leaves ghosts skeletons witches etc it s very strange to see back home in sydney businesses don t decorate for halloween at all back in our hotel room i checked our plans for the day to visit athlone castle then the clonmacnoise monastic site before stopping at the small town of atheny before reaching galway however when i checked the opening hours of athlone castle and clonmacnoise i found that both of these sites were currently closed for repairs so we were stuck without anything to do on the way to galway i did some searching for tourist attractions on the area of our route and found a couple of other alternatives our first stop was the corlea trackway near keenagh this is an iron age road built across a peat bog made of split oak logs dating from 147 bc the year is pinned down precisely by dendrochronology of the oak tree rings the road was preserved in the peat bog after it sank just an estimated ten years or so after its construction a visitor centre is built around a preserved 18 metre section of the road at the end of a few hundred metres of road which is still submerged in the bog having not been excavated the 18 metre section was excavated in the 1990s and treated with wax to preserve the ancient timber then reassembled in situ with the new visitor centre around it we arrived shortly after the visitor centre opened at 10 00 and were greeted by an enthusiastic woman who asked if we were in a hurry we said we had plenty of time which may have been a slight mistake she proceeded to tell us all about the trackway and more she took us to a theatrette where she said there was a 17 minute informational video to watch we thought she d start the video but she began talking to use about other aspects of the road and its history and the peat bog that it was found in she diverged into telling us her opinions about the government having banned commercial peat harvesting due to an international agreement to reduce climate change she said she still cut turf and harvested peat herself to use as fuel in the winter and she was allowed to do so due to being part of a family with some historical dispensation to collect peat from some former king of ireland or something she said there was some plan to ban private peat harvesting by 2030 and she said she wasn t sure if the government had the right to do that and said she would have no way to heat her home if they banned it there was some other stuff she talked about as well but it was too much to remember and some of it pretty opinionated although she was very friendly and convivial with us the video the we finally got to watch it was fascinating it showed the archaeological excavation and preservation of the roadway planks which was incredibly detailed and time consuming the planks had to be kept constantly wet after digging off the peat and the footage showed workers covered in mud working in the rain and some with watering cans sprinkling water on the planks they moved the planks to a facility in ireland and then to england where they spent several months being stabilised and then soaked with wax to prevent decay then they were moved back to the original location where the new visitor centre had been built around the excavation site and the planks were reinstalled in their original locations now with a long display room around them after the video the woman showed us a slab of dried peat about the size of a loaf of bread split in half horizontally then she took us into the display room there was an immediate and very distinct earthy smell that hit us as we entered she commented on it saying what a lovely smell it was she then started telling us more details about the history of the road what we knew and didn t know about the iron age people who built it and the reasons why and various theories that people had she had an obvious admiration for the builders and then she started telling us various legends of these people and how they interacted with their beliefs and society we d also mentioned that we d visited brú na bóinne yesterday and she linked what she was saying to the earlier lives of the more ancient society she could have probably talked all day but eventually we excused ourselves and said we had to get moving on our driving trip we drove on to our next back contingency stop the town of roscommon and roscommon castle using google maps to navigate we just set the destination as the centre of town and hoped to find some parking when we got there as we were just a block away from the town centre i spotted a free parking area so we took advantage of that we walked around the town and looked for a place to sit and have some lunch we found the comfy cafe which looked very nice they had coffee at the front and a sandwich bar at the back i got a smokey chicken wrap while my wife had a veggie panini the sandwiches were pretty good after eating we walked over to roscommon castle this castle consisted of a somewhat decayed but almost complete curtain wall surro...