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that building than continuing my journey to london eventually and you must remember here that the internet was not as informative in those days as it is now i learned that the path was part of the lea valley walk which in its later stages and in a previous life of mine i had lived near to and sometimes walked that it followed the route of the old luton to hertford railway and that its second leg led from luton airport to harpenden it took me several more years before i found the time and the inclination to walk it but have now done so three times the first time in autumn the second in spring and the third in the last week of 2016 although the route is signposted at the exit to the station my usual inclination to follow my nose and my disinclination to walk alongside a dual carriageway at first led me astray but after a few diversions i emerged from an underpass directly underneath a nose to tail train of aeroplanes in the moment that they had burst through to take off and were accelerating to gain altitude having been on one of those planes some weeks previously i felt the closed eyes aching ears and surreptitious prayers i was relieved to be outside on that path perhaps the observed and not the observer i would say that of the three seasons the walk is at its best in autumn unfortunately i appear to have lost the photographs i took of it on that occasion but on a clear and frosty morning i caught it in its winter best it resembles other paths which once were railway lines in terms of its flora and occasional fauna albeit in its early stages unusually well stocked with mature trees responsible i suppose for making its beginnings invisible from the train curiously by some trick of perspective or by design luton hoo itself cannot be seen from the path only its grounds at one point there is a bench before which three spirits of the lea valley loom to obstruct the view the figure on the left is eric morecambe on the right is the founder of the luton sea scouts who apparently make use of the artificial lakes of luton hoo and in the middle is capability brown himself for about half an hour the path and the railway proceed side by side until like two friends falling out on a walk the path veers away to the right over a viaduct crossing the lea itself rounds the sewage farm which is less attractive than it looks from the train and passing under a railway bridge emerges at the beginning of the road that leads to the incongruous building the path itself continues on to harpenden the road which has no footpath beside it passes over the lea which although the day had started brightly was half obscured by fog before leading me to what announced itself as st charalambos a greek orthodox church if i had visited when i had first noticed it i would have found an anglican church dedicated to the holy trinity but that had been abandoned in 2008 pevsner i only know this because i have searched the internet has this to say about it 1840 1 by benjamin ferrey neo norman facade has 2 large round norman piers flanking the entrance and open staircases with norman colonettes turning left and right asymmetrically placed turret the church has a modest churchyard containing a scattering of small monuments most of them apparently to the inhabitants of the small village of east hyde or to those employed in some way at luton hoo one of them in the shape of a heart the churchyard slopes gently upwards to a precisely trimmed wall of yew through which is visible a monument of a type that i associate most with highgate cemetery i lived nearby for some years and used to stroll there when i had nothing else to do whose proper name seems to be mausoleum the word that seems to suit is catafalque but that is wrong this mausoleum or catafalque belongs to commemorates and presumably i have never been quite sure of the mechanics of such interments houses the body of sir julius wernher as we have seen the one time master of luton hoo the mausolea and monuments trust describes it thus an exceptionally elaborate gothic revival monument the sarcophagus which is faced with porphiry and supported by six bronze lions is sheltered by a lavishly carved stone canopy the quality of both the materials and workmanship is of the very highest order at its corners stand four quasi angelic figures each representing what i take to be a virtue though in some cases the symbolism is obscure to me in addition to sir julius himself whose mortal remains occupy i imagine the great lead sarcophagus faced with porphiry itself there are smaller plaques to commemorate his family as follows alice sedgwick baroness ludlow 1862 1945 his wife lady zia wernher 1892 1977 his daughter in law major general sir harold wernher 1895 1978 his second son derrick julius wernher 2nd baronet 1889 1948 his son and heir george michael alexander wernher only son of sir harold died at reja 4 december 1942 aged 24 and buried in a military cemetery in tunisia alex pigott wernher youngest son died at ginchy france september 10 1916 one plaque is blank pharonically within the enclosure of yew but apart from the family there are two smaller monuments which read harriet sessions 12 february 1934 for 39 years faithful housekeeper and friend of sir julius and lady wernher margaret m eleanor pryce d 29 june 1928 lifelong devoted friend of julius and lady wernher there is also a very small monument completely obscured by moss which might have commemorated a dog although on my first visit i knew nothing of sir julius or his family i recall feeling that this unexpected enclosure of yew and its porphiry faced casket to which i had been drawn seemed somehow to contain a compressed weight of history set against the lightness of the english countryside or as i wrote in a notebook rather cheaply a little corner of an english field that is forever mitteleuropa by my second visit i was able to flesh out the bones i understood the connection with luton hoo which i learned had been decorated by the designer of the ritz hotel i knew that alice his wife nee mankiewicz was nicknamed birdie was painted by sargent and after the death of sir julius had remarried a lord ludlow sir derrick the second baronet had married theodora romanoff an exiled russian noblewoman though not related to the royal family sir harold s wife zia was born countess anastasia mikhailovna de torby the daughter of an exiled russian grand duke and grandson of a tsar who owned kenwood house and was buried in highgate cemetery tracing the web of family conections by hopping from one wikipedia page to another soon spiralled vertiginously back to pushkin and forwards to a handful of duchesses of westminster and other names too numerous to mention familiar from the society pages i picture sir julius selecting the spot where his mausoleum was to be built fussing about its design and riding out from luton hoo from time to time taking i suppose much the route i took to see how the work was progressing i am assuming it was built while he was alive and in time a sad grand procession from the great house when it was time for him to take occupation of his chosen resting place i picture too a succession of other sad processions taking the same route in due course to add new bodies or if not that new inscriptions and others less sad but still reflective a short drive or a pleasant walk on a summer s afternoon away to lay flowers or pay other respects the mausoleum s architecture echoes the mediaeval shrines that held relics of the saints and seems calculated to invite pilgrimage it is of course some time now since any descendant of sir julius has occupied luton hoo and the number of those who can remember their occupation of the house or most of those commemorated by the mausoleum must be dwindling i wonder how many other than me have found themselves impelled by some unknown instinct making what feels as though it is regardless of its object i doubt sir julius in life was quite saintly a pilgrimage of sorts and how few of us could describe quite what drew us there or what it might mean from the camden new journal 13 may 2010 an heiress to a vast diamond fortune who shunned her aristocratic family in favour of a quiet life in highgate was found dead by a care taker an inquest heard anna wernher daughter of sir derrick julius wernher 2nd baronet was found dead in her home in langbourne avenue on the holly lodge estate in february described as a recluse the inquest heard that she had cut all ties with her family whose fortune was made by her grandfather sir julius charles wernher 1st baronet in the diamond mines of south africa alexander wills a close friend of ms wernher said that she complained of feeling very unwell when he spoke to her three weeks before she was found it was par for the course because she was never feeling very well he said i didn t take any particular notice and said to her give me a ring when you re feeling better and i ll come and have some tea that was the last time mr wills spoke to ms wernher who he described as suspicious of medical care it is believed ms wernher will be buried in the family mausoleum in east hyde bedfordshire after leaving the churchyard i retraced my steps and rejoined the path that led to harpenden where i enjoyed a toasted bruschetta and a cup of caffe latte before taking the train home passing back through luton airport at about i suppose 3 40 time taken 2 hours approximately degree of difficulty very slight posted on february 2 2017 by backwatersman dreams of leaving from december 2016 the new crimson rambler for a few years after they were married our parents managed a butcher s shop the end building of a deformed 1930s crescent of ten shops a series of white concrete cubes with elongated windows unornamented geometrical exiguous california had come to the outskirts of northampton futuristically prefiguring the society of consumption the building was redolent of absent sunshine leisure and romance although it was not long before the rain seeped through the flat roofs and in fungoid green stains on the inside walls and subsidence cracks veined the already maculated concrete with black and the parents separated and returned to the familiar red brick terraces from which they had unsuccessfully tried to anticipate their future release jeremy seabrook the everlasting feast i think i remember reading some time ago that w h auden had once described his ideal as being to live a mediterranean life in view original post 637 more words posted on february 2 2017 by backwatersman a midlands romance from november 2016 the new crimson rambler the only thing romantic in the midlands is the names of the professional football clubs and football generally speaking is not a romantic game the towns are perhaps not meant for summer summer s delights and summer s games and only when the fogs come down and blur their grim unlovely lines and the street lamps mingle with lights from stalls and shops to deck them out in a boisterous blaze do they become warm and human football is their proper game and seen in the lights of the trams as they sway over lines glittering in the december rain the stop press columns of the evening papers with their long lists of scores and results take on a mystic significance meet me on the corner when the lights are coming on and i ll be there i promise i ll be there quotations from dudley carew to the wicket view original post 8 more words posted on february 2 2017 by backwatersman transitory things in lamport from february 2016 the new crimson rambler lamport is a small village on the road between market harborough and northampton which i have often passed through but never made time to visit until last week prompted mainly by reading a child alone the memoirs of bb bb was the pen name of d j watkins pitchford a naturalist artist and author whose books i enjoyed as a child and have sometimes alluded to in writing this blog watkins pitchford grew up in the rectory at lamport now inevitably the old rectory lamport rectory which is next door to the church of which his father was the rector all saints lamport and directly opposite lamport hall the family seat until recently of the isham family lamport hall as young d j was an imaginative child and kept at home rather than sent to school he would have had plenty of time to contemplate the motto of the isham family which is inscribed at least twice on view original post 363 more words posted on february 2 2017 by backwatersman forgive what we have been amend what we are from october 2012 the crimson rambler a couple of weeks ago i paid a visit to lincoln cathedral it has its fans ruskin pevsner but magnificent though it is it seemed to me to have an uneasy atmosphere something that suggested it was not quite happy in its skin the cathedral was rebuilt and greatly enlarged by st hugh of lincoln the exemplary 12th century bishop who was canonized shortly after his death the cathedral invites visitors to imagine themselves as mediaeval pilgrims visiting his shrine it s true that many pilgrims would have been attracted by great st hugh but more would have there to venerate this shrine what s left of it the shrine of little st hugh little st hugh was a nine year old boy the son of a woman called beatrice who disappeared from his home on july 31st 1255 on 29th august his body was found in a well in the view original post 673 more words posted on february 2 2017 february 2 2017 by backwatersman twilight of the bones from march 2012 the crimson rambler all the culture that is most truly native centres round things which even when they are communal are not official the pub the football match the back garden the fireside and the nice cup of tea g orwell england your england since the football club that i support moved to a ground that is inaccessible by public transport i have been spending my saturday afternoons watching a mixture of sides in the united counties league harborough desborough the rothwell corinthians but mostly rothwell town the bones but as the sign above illustrates it looks like i shall have one less option for next season or at least if the club survives they won t be playing at their long time home at cecil street the club was founded as the swifts in 1895 and have spent time in the northamptonshire league the leicestershire league and the kettering league view original post 633 more words post navigation older posts 1 of 2 follow me on instagram no instagram images were found recent posts leavers and remainers rhapsody in torremolinos who wished there to be a seat imitations of imitations from utopia to atopia milton keynes and magna park faced with porphiry dreams of leaving a midlands romance transitory things in lamport forgive what we have been amend what we are twilight of the bones peace and light in long eaton merrie men and mad men more than one way to be a brit create a free website or blog at wordpress com facebook 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