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hen i was selecting size ooops not sure anymore but somehow i managed to put everything perfectly so perfectly in fact that i didn t even have to put tracks for the switches just direct vias to be capped off when the component is soldered so the whole pcb is hermetic in the body i know someone will be triggered by the 90º difference between switches enjoy xd ordered them from oshpark in after dark just for kicks xd heatsink that shit first time i powered the camera i notticed that the whole board was noticeably hot and the main processor even more so i imagine that s not a problem ina fpv drone flying at 80 kph but for a closed body camera that heat can t be allowed to accumulate i mentioned before the sideplate that would have the main pcb attached neeeded to be made out of aluminium easier said than thone u just about before milling it i made a few modifications i added the studs to hold the pcb instead of having to add them later and thread in the thin baseplate that would give me more thread lenght for the screws and allow me to make the fins 1mm deeper because the interference between them and the m2 threaded holes was eliminated but one thing is making a nice design and another is to actually build it that piece could be definitely made with manual milling and some filing but my trusty 3020 can more or less do aluminium if you are patient enough so i went with that instead fusion definitely made some pretty swirly cutting patterns that i decided to save even if that is only going to be seen by me when cutting the piece i kinda overreached the speed at wich the router was moving the motor was fine the cutting sounds where great but at some very sharp changes it definitely flexed enough to make the rounded corners a bit wonky the studs also suffered from that speed excess being a bit overcut on some sides i definitely need to make a new piece someday that doesn t have those mistakes but the piece was mechanically and geometrically functional so i still went with it also this was my first piece with a double sided operation wich made me nervous the first milling was about 3h but i was feeling confident and as long as i didn t switch off the router or the power didn t go out i should be able to mantain the coordinates to process the piece first i drilled a very tight pocket where the small square of the plate would fit had to hammer it a bit wich is good in this case given the experience with the other side this time i went very conservatively on the feed maybe even a bit too much as the whole piece took a bit over 4h to be milled at least the results where really excellent for the machine the screw holes where 1 5mm but the heads where 2 5 so with my newly gained confidence i made a post program to itnerpolate those from a 2mm endmill in the model i had made the screw seats about 0 4mm thick but in the real aluminium piece even if it s more resistant i left it at 0 8mm remember that for later gorgeous i didn t want to spend more time in the router so i decided to do the big chamfers in the milling machine with probably not the best setup for the angle in retrospective i could have done a few things better like attaching a thick parallel to the side of the triangle to have more resting surface to set the plate for example but well that s for the next time i guess definitely will be making more than one camera in the future anyways i did the cuts and altough i did not make them perfectly simmetrical at least i did not mess up badly and you will not nottice once it s mounted camera beauty shots remember what i said about the screw base thickness being left slightly thicker if you look closely you can see the heads protrude a sliiiiiiiiiightly bit to the side of the chamfer it s not functionally a problem but i know and you know and i will definitely change that for a future version putting them a bit more inwards in any case it s friggin cool isn t it it s my blog i can say whatever the fuck i want tbh i m missing the pcb and it s components the bodies still have to arrive from germany and some o rings a micro li po and the power board from china too so the camera it s not really near completion yet but it s close see ya go to part iii leave a comment posted in uncategorized tagged gopro helmet cam helmet camera motobog motorbike helmet camera motorcycle camera no limits a helmet camera story i posted by nixieguy on 13 07 2020 a few days after poking around with my f9 camera and finding out there are no new or old firmwares avaliable nor adjustments for the camera or anything for that matter i decided to start again an old project of mine building a helmet cam from scratch not from literal scratch tho drone camera tech is so advanced that it s dumb spending time also developing the recording hardware with the enormous amount of options not that just developing the casing is easy but also what exactly do i want to achieve that no action camera in the market does already so why you see i m a fashion victim i admit it every time i see a gopro in a helmet i get sick when i see this i think of this i know i know it s not like there are lots of types out there it s either generic action camera gopro standard clone cube action camera gopro session runcam 5 caddx orca tube camera sena tube contour hd s20w cheapo f9 front facing action cam ghost drift stupid sena 10c not gonna count the mohawk type cameras albeit cool because cost 500 and upwards to orbit bad helmet compatibility top vents modular helmets and top solar shield sliders pose a problem with those and don t get me started on the mounting solutions they re all so large sometimes as big as the camera you want to mount and the thing is our helmets are curved but none of the avaliable cameras use that to it s advantage to make them more streamlined and i m thinking why noone makes a wedge shaped camera so it has a lower profile well if noone is going to manufacture that fuck it i m gonna build it myself first i took out the camera module i had bought some time ago a caddx turtle v2 real 1080p 60fps much better than the f9 camera and just looked at it while brainstorming one of the main thoughts i had was if i was ready to carry a powerbank and a cable for the f9 camera why not remove the whole battery thing altogheter from the camera not totally true but more on that later so i got to work first i made a simple suport to put all the parts near the helmet so i could visualize what i was dealing with be afraid not yet this has nothing to do with how i wanted it to look with everything in perspective the first thing i understood is that i wanted the camera to be gimballed so i could fine tune the angle it pointed out so even if the body was not perfectly aligned the pov would be adjustable implemented frankly it looks more like a ready to burst eye than anything with that i started to devise what kind of shape i wanted it to have i had very clear in my mind that the camera was to hug the helmet as much as possible a limiting factor is the control board that measures 29x29mm the camera body is 19x19mm so the body itself must at least be a bit taller than 30mm what i definitely didn t want was the gopro attachment so that s the first thing i removed in the helmet and compared against the f9 looking good but i had definitely gone overboard with the simplification and volume reduction and the pcb barely fit plus the main processor requires heatsinking so it was not like i could just make a plastic case and call it quits i would have to add some kind of flat surface where i could embed an aluminium block of sorts after thinking about it and some rough modifications later i got this much better but that was built over many modifications over the same base design making the whole fusion360 file a mess i really didn t want to work on thus i started from scratch on a new file with more close to real measurements and most importantly a clear view of the shape the camera was going to have by advancing the gimbal ball gimball from now on holder front face it was possible to make it look less like a sore eye and more like well definitely not a sore eye after some more refining work and adding the micro sd acces port and status light that was looking great altough the camera had started to get bulky at 37x37mm frontal size and i got worried that the thing was not going to be as dramatic as i had hoped so i decided to print a simplified body and front cover to fact check when you see the first impression well it is indeed a bit bulky altought compared with the f9 it does poke less from the helmet side but ah when you see it from the side everything changes now the f9 looks humongous against the nixie cam official name btw and without the f9 looks much better i went ahead and printed the gim ball beauty gimbal working i literally checked the goprosession size while writing the post and it s 1mm larger on each side after that i went ahead and printed the lateral cover this piece must be made out of aluminium as it will act as heatsink for the main board there is no way around it the protusion is about the size of the main processor and the four screws will attach it securely in place it also serves as port to access inside and make repairs easier than through the camera ball hole in place using some micro screws i had lying around but what about the element exposure no worries the ball and lateral cover have o rings plus the silicone seal on the micro sd card at the very least the camera should be ip55 rated dust and water splash resistance but i bet it will be good up to ip68 impervious to dust and very heavy rain but not underwater waterproof this also brings the issue of the controls this thing would need at least two buttons on off and rec stop the main board has a pushbutton that starts and stops recording but accessing that as a button from the outside would be a good alignment challenge so i knew i wanted a separate button for that for power control i d need a switch too but as much as i looked around there was no way of finding a momentary and a 2 position waterproof buttons that where absolutely microscopic so to speak smallest i could find was 8mm in diameter and 15mm deep wich would mess the distribution inside the camera and waste precious space after deliberating for a while i reached the conclusion that the best option for all that was to seal an opening with a pcb that would act on one side as two buttons with a rubber cover and on the inside as circuit board with a fet latching switch and two normal connections for the recording button the outside with comprehensible yet unnecesary operating symbols the buttons will be operated with the thumb and facing down so you can t really see them i made it this way because the thing you will operate the most is the sd card and you definitely don t want that to fall out hence it being on top and on the inside the board size is 24x14mm corners r3 and the inside area is 11x21mm corners r2 the plan is to have the vias sit on the pads so after soldering the pushbuttons no hole is left and the board can be simply perimeter sealed to the camera body ensuring it being waterproof the board will also probably be conformally coated to prevent corrosion this will be the latching circuit got it from eevblog i still have to select the particular components but this should not be too difficult and now some prototype beauty shots because i can some more details while making sure i had not forgotten anything important in the camera body files i realized i had no reference point for aligning the gimball to be horizontal nor a seal around the camera lens i was kinda going to glue the camera to the ball with sealant and be done with it but that s a bad idea so i added a pair of horizon marks in the gimball front and a sealing ring groove the camera will be held in place with tight foam and a very tight fitting o ring but an impact on the lens wich do not protrude from the ball so it would require to be a very direct hit will send it inwards protecting if from a possible lens break just dissasemble and pop out if nothing broke power remember what i mentioned before that this thing being batteryless was not totally true in the end part of the job of this camera is to record in case of emergency crash when that happens the possibilities that the magnetic power cord flies off are very high and then you would totally miss the aftermath of whatever happened it is then a good idea to have an emergency power unit inside the camera that can record at least 5 minutes after power is lost i mean how are you going to keep crashing for 5 straight minutes this brought me to a power supply conundrum that made my head hurt the camera itself can accept a range of voltages from 5 to 20v with current going from 600ma 5v to 160ma 12v got no figures for consumption above that i could totally use a normal usb powerbank to drive it but a single lipo could not power the camera directly so i wondered if modifying a powerbank to output 12v and having 2s lipo in the camera was possible but also a bit insane to be honest after much wondering and a bit of counsel i found this tiny little board and at first i was going to use it as 5vin 5vout but then i realized the video board power consumption was not the same 5v it s about 3w whereas 12v is 2w that s a huge difference so i ordered one that would output 12v as for the lipo power i made a quick sketch to see what kind of space i had avaliable in the camera bottom rectangle is the video board middle rectangle with some protrusions is the dc dc board and the rectangle at an angle is about the leftover space i could use to put a battery in there volume is about 20x6x32mm wich is not a huge amount of space i tried hard to find a battery that would maximise the power i could fit in but in the end i had to settle down with a meagre 180mah micro li po fun thing tho when i made the rough calculations as to how much would that last using a very convervative 80 efficient dc dc it gave about 14 minutes of runtime given i was aiming for 5 minutes i am exctatic that it can double that recording time i prefer to take that number with a grain of salt and assume it is going to just not be as good even with the 20 losses also current consumption from the battery should be about 600ma wich is a discharge of about 3 3c not a level that should destroy the battery easily for details on the magnetic power supply connection please refer to this post fabrication when building something like this it s not always straightforward what should be made in wich way when i was designing the camera i kept telling myself that the shape should be manufacturable using conventional tools and i kept looking at building the body in halves so the pieces would be machinable from both sides but as i continued working i found myself distancing from that rapidly until i effectively stopped fighting the concept and embraced the truth i wanted a monocoque body for the c...