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stration from 1796 shown above i was quite fascinated by the construction of this italian gown s bodice since it seemed to feature flaps that are gathered up on cords in the front most round gowns from this period have the bodice and skirt all in one piece but in this gown you can see that the bodice is more heavily gathered that the skirt which would help to fine tune the fullness of each piece although there aren t enough photos to tell how the original bodice is constructed under the flap i used an educated guess and decided to make a lightly gathered bodice attached to the skirt and then a heavily gathered section to cover it this type of double layer construction would also explain a few surviving gowns with odd flappy bits at the sides that museums never seem to know how to style the vandyke trim is quite bold especially on the front of the spencer and while i do like quirky fashions it s nice that i can also wear the dress without the spencer for a slightly less busy look i am wearing this dress with my transitional stays a taffeta petticoat an old velvet turban and my new muff as usual 1790s fashions tend to not be the easiest style for modern audiences to appreciate but for some reason i adore them the skirts are so full and the waists are so high that it does create a very odd silhouette but when these outfits are all put together with the right accessories i think they feel so glamorous and dramatic especially from the back if you d like to see more photos of this outfit you can find them on flickr at 1 31 pm 308 comments labels 1790s round gown tuesday november 22 2016 1795 half mourning robe every year the dfwcg holds a georgian picnic and as usual i waited until the very last minute to decide what to wear i had originally planned on wearing something old but my state of mind since the election has been pretty gloomy so i decided to wear my heart on my sleeve and make another mourning gown i was originally inspired by a fashion plate from gallery of fashion showing an afternoon dress in half mourning that combined a black robe with a white round gown i already had a white gown and i found a 3 yard piece of black wool in my stash that would work great for the robe luckily i also had some good 1790s patterns that i had drafted for previous projects so it ended up being a really quick and easy garment to put together a black robe on its own is pretty boring but i also found lots of examples of 1790s robes edged with fur which seemed like a perfect choice for a november picnic you can see a variety of robe fashion plates here i picked up a yard of faux fur and used this to trim the edges of the robe and i also made a new muff since the 1790s is all about the accessories turbans are the most common type of headwear that women seemed to wear with this type of gown and the crazy long feathers add such a fun finishing touch since i was short on time i made a really simple fixed turban by tacking a long strip of silk over a wool hat blank i also wore my curly grey wig to try to mimic the look of the ladies in these fashion plates so that s pretty much it my obsession with 1790 s fashion knows no bounds and it was a lot of fun to make another robe to add to my growing collection as usual i ll post a few of my favorite photos here and the rest are on flickr at 9 33 am 124 comments labels 1790s dfwcg georgian picnic mourning friday may 27 2016 rewear and refresh soooo it s been 6 months since my last blog post and i thought i d drop in and let you all know what i ve been up to i had a big push of productivity last spring and summer but then i crashed after costume college and desperately needed some time to hibernate and recuperate it s been good i really needed a break from sewing to recharge my batteries a bit but i haven t stopped going to costume events during this past year i ve just been rewearing older pieces from my wardrobe and giving each outfit a few tweaks to make them feel more fun i started off last january by wearing my mourning calico to a exhibition of artwork by gustave caillebotte i took this opportunity to make a new set of white collar and cuffs to finish off the dress the inner collar and cuffs are items that you almost always see in original victorian fashion plates and photographs but as modern costumers we tend to leave them off probably because they were separate items and aren t typically included in the display of surviving victorian garments in museums so our eyes aren t as accustomed to seeing them there but 19th century women used the inner collar and cuffs to protect the dress from dirt and body oils and they could be easily removed and laundered so it makes sense that they were essential finishing touches during the period i ran out of time and didn t get to finish my own collar and cuffs for the first wearing of this dress at costume college but the dress feels so much more complete now that i have them you can see the difference between the dress with and without the collar cuffs in these pictures and i also wore a new bow at the neckline to change things up a bit more it s a subtle change but i like it a lot better this way the cuffs are just rectangular strips of cotton edged with eyelet that i tacked to the inside of the sleeves the collar came from a mysterious little pattern on page 294 of fashions of the gilded age vol 2 the diagram is not labeled and there s no illustration showing what the pattern piece looks like when made up but i suspected that it was one of those jaunty winged collars that you see so often during the natural form years sure enough it worked perfectly my next event was a trip to the cowgirl museum so i decided to restyle my victorian cycling outfit with some new accessories to give it more of an old west look this one didn t require any sewing at all which was a wonderful treat i just wore a different hat a bandanna some leather gloves and an old belt and pouch with a turquoise brooch in the place of a buckle i wish i could claim that the holster was mine too but this piece was just on loan from my friend christy for this picture i found it amusing that christy had also restyled one of her old dresses to give it a cowgirl vibe and we happened to have worn these outfits together at another event 4 years ago even when we were supposed to be proper ladies we still couldn t resist pretending to be outlaws i guess it just runs in our texas blood finally the local costume guild organized an 18th c dinner party so i decided to wear my black chemise once again to change this one up i wore my big embroidered kerchief a new purple striped sash and i rewound my turban with some purplish grey silk but most importantly i styled a new wig that matches my natural haircolor which was a huge improvement good lord what was i thinking with that crazy blond mess on my head i have a bad habit of wanting to make new costumes for every event that i go to but this year has made me grateful to have some good pieces in my wardrobe that i can rework and rewear in different ways plus i ve really enjoyed focusing on the stress free fun of wearing costumes vs the often exhausting process of making them i have to admit that i m itching to make some new things again and i ve already started one big project that i ll be sharing here soon but hopefully i ll be able to stay a little more balanced with my work load in the future and i think this sewing hiatus has taught me to appreciate my older costumes a lot more than i used to btw if you d like to see more pics from my recent costumed adventures feel free to check out my flickr even when i m not blogging flickr is one place that always stays updated because i like to share my pics with my wonderful friends in the dfwcg and if you happen to be in the area come out and join us we ll be adding a bunch of new events to our calendar over the next week at 11 08 pm 94 comments labels 1780s 1870 s 1890 s dfwcg mourning natural form wigs sunday november 29 2015 grandma the wolf and little red the tale of this costume follows a long and meandering path and to tell its story i need to go back to the beginning over a year ago once upon a time a lowly seamstress heard news of a magical ball in a far off land ahem okay so maybe that s a bit too dramatic for a blog post let me try that again john singleton copley portrait of a lady 1780 in the summer of 2014 the organizers of costume college announced that their next theme would be plucked from the pages costuming your favorite literary characters i usually have a horrible time deciding what costumes to make for big events like this one but i knew almost instantly want i wanted to make for the 2015 costume college gala out of all the old fairy tales little red riding hood is my favorite so i decided that i would be the wolf wearing grandma s clothing but i had no intention of being a sweet old grandma wrapped up in blankets with curlers in her hair i wanted to be an elegant 18 th c grande dame like you see in so many paintings from that age there is so much subtext and darkness and deeper meaning in old fairy tales so i started wondering if the real grandma was meant to be somewhat terrifying and wolf like on her own and maybe that s why little red couldn t tell the two apart who knows if that was the original intention but it s a fun thought and one that you could easily imagine being true when you see the countless historical images of stern looking matriarchs with silver hair and piercing eyes i started by collecting pictures of older women in georgian paintings check out my pinterest board for lots of great grannies many of these ladies are shown in grey or taupe gowns with an abundance of frilly white caps aprons and fichus and this color combo already looked very wolf like to my eyes for my costume i decided to make a simple grey silk taffeta round gown and i drafted my own pattern by modifying and combining several of the dresses in patterns of fashion although my dress is quite plain on its own i was lucky enough to find some gorgeous tambour embroidered curtain panels from the 1930 s at an antique show a few years ago and they worked perfectly for my apron and fichu the panels all had some staining and damage in various places but i was able to cut around the bad spots and i m thrilled with the way they turned out to finish off my gown i made a pair of organdy sleeve ruffles that i just pinned in place although my dress was fairly simple i decided that i wanted my hair to be more dramatic for the gala so i made a large 18 th c wig based on the instructions in kendra s van cleave s wonderful book 18th century hair and wig styling i used the instructions for the lilac wig to build the wire base and i used a lioness wig plus several hanks of loose hair to cover the base and make the buckles the wig was originally dark brown but i sprayed it with jerome russell b wild color spray in siberian white to make it grey and this was definitely the best white hair spray that i ve tried yet i ve never worn a wig this big before but it was lots of fun and surprisingly comfortable the only unexpected side effect is that it gave me a bit of a face lift from the weight of it pulling backward on my head which made me look a less matronly than usual the funny thing is that even though this wig seemed massive when i was building it it didn t seem big at all once i had the whole outfit on while i was wearing it i kept thinking eh i could have gone a lot bigger and if period painting can be believed this do was still quite modest compared to many more than anything 18 th century grandmas seemed to love their ridiculous caps but i wasn t sure how huge and silly i really wanted to go with mine what i ended up with was relatively tame compared to what you often see in period paintings and fashion plates but that s mainly because i put the cap off for the last minute and didn t have time to keep hemming ruffles my cap is made from organdy and it is just a much larger version of a typical 18 th c cap it is made from a large oval in back with a band that is wider at the sides and narrower at top and i covered the band with several rows of box pleated ruffles and some poofed black ribbon it also has a hanging tail of fabric in the back which is a common look even if it doesn t seem to serve much purpose while i was sewing my gown i was also working on a wolf mask which was quite an adventure as well i discovered the work of joni good and her book how to make masks joni makes some of the most amazing papier mache masks that i ve ever seen and you can find much more of her work on her website ultimate papier mache i used her techniques and sculpted a mold for my mask using terra cotta clay then i covered it with shop towels and the plaster glue mixture that she describes in her book and instructional videos i actually ended up making two wolf sculptures and papier mache shells because i forgot to use a release agent on the first one so the paper mache stuck to the clay and wouldn t come off whoops but it all turned out for the best because i liked my second version of the wolf much better photo by jennylafleur while i loved making the wolf mask i have to admit that i didn t love wearing it very few people knew who i was when i arrived at the gala and it was almost impossible to hear me when i talked because it was so noisy and the mask muffled my words i also had a limited range of sight so i had to be very careful not to step on trains or bump into tables so it was fun for the grand reveal and a few pictures but poor wolfie didn t last long at the party but the best part about wearing this costume was that my friend ginger decided to make an 18 th c little red costume to go along with my grandma wolf and she made the most amazingly gorgeous polonaise à coqueluchon which is a hooded gown that was popular at the time recreating the characters of this story in a more historical way was so incredibly fun and i was thrilled every time somebody had an ah ha moment and realized who we were i m so happy and grateful that ginger decided to play along with me and doing this theme with her was one of the highlights of my trip so that s the story of grandma and the wolf but this tale had one more twist that surprised even me in the end although i wasn t planning on wearing this outfit again so soon we had an unexpected cold front move in right before our yearly georgian picnic and i decided that a silk round gown would be a little warmer than my semi sheer cotton chemise dress that i had originally planned on wearing i still desperately needed a cloak to block the wind but when i dug though my stash the only thing suitable that i found was some coat weight red wool that i found at an estate sale many years ago so i used the hooded cloak and mantle patterns in costume close up as a guide and i quickly threw together a little red mantle to keep me warm at our picnic so without even planning it this costume now has become grandma ...