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w may is the time of year when all the awol sewing bloggers suddenly show up in your blog reader with bathroom selfies galore for me made may don t worry i ve definitely been awol and here i am suddenly on may 1st but bathroom selfies ain t me i decided that i wouldn t make a proper pledge for mmm15 because i tend to try to wear at least one item of handmade clothing everyday and i m pretty aware of my wardrobe needs and desires already kimono thing i made two weeks ago sooo slapdash but i m kinda obsessed my problem is actually making time to address those needs and committing to sewing for my own damn self when you sew for a modest living every moment at the sewing machine is a potential money maker so it s hard to shove my to do pile aside and sew for fun i figure may is a good enough time to spoil myself though i ve been having major insta envy where i scroll through instagram with a pit in my stomach because everyone s making ginger jeans and morris blazers and undies and cool bags and all the things i want for myself but don t have time to make poorbaby i know it s the price i pay for choosing this ridiculous career path but i m grateful that my passion for sewing is still strong and that my only limitation is lack of time not lack of desire or inspiration baby quilt for my future nephew i made in march really should have taken better photos on a proper camera so i m calling it me make may where instead of just wearing my existing handmade stuff i m going to try to set aside time to sew more clothes for myself that aren t cut off grain and slapped together on a serger and left unhemmed as per usual these past few months i m afraid to set quantitative goals for myself because i can t always predict my work schedule and deadlines but i would love to work towards accomplishing the following tops i wear black jeans like everyday and have few tops to pair them with maybe one knit tee and a short sleeve button up maxi dress i still feel like i m playing dress up when i wear the one i have never blogged but it s so damn comfortable that i need another pajamas and underwear not very fun but the situation is dire dress for my friends wedding at the end of may i have some knit lace i want to use but need pattern inspo linden sweatshirt i made as a sample for my knits class at butcher s sew shop here s to hoping i can get all that done my plan is to check in with you all again either halfway through may or at the end of it let s be real how about july to see how i did fingers crossed do you guys also have sewing goals for mmm15 or is it more about reflecting on and celebrating what you ve already made posted by andrea four square walls at 12 07 am email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels me made may wednesday december 31 2014 2014 i knowingly skipped over my third blogiversary or however it s spelled because i felt that my neglected blog didn t deserve any hoopla at the time as the year 2014 rolls to an end though i thought i should revisit this space to catch up and do a bit of reflecting on the past year of sewing in general if only to distract myself from thinking about the impending nightmare of filing my taxes as a self employed person for the first time and i ve certainly missed you all as you may know from this blog post in february i quit my position as a grant writer in order to sew for a living for awhile after that i was mostly sewing for a studio that did bridal alterations and custom projects the owner ultimately decided to narrow her focus and cut down the volume of her workload so i stopped working there in early september and ventured out on my own one of my last projects at seamstress for hire a tablecloth playhouse naturally i had to try it out for myself since then i ve been freelancing sewing on demand for a few etsy shops and local brands rebourne cuddle sleep dream brynnie the work is consistent and i get to work from home on my own equipment which is excellent in that i can set my own schedule and i certainly enjoy the autonomy and pajama dress code but it also means that my small sewing room is in a constant state of chaos and i never know how to stop working because the work is always staring at me above my pile of items to sew alter before the holidays i have also been teaching more often at butcher s sew shop leading the sewing with knits workshop as well as some sections of sewing 101 and 201 and private lessons for adults in the past i never imagined myself being any sort of teacher due to my introverted nature but teaching people how to sew has been incredibly fun i m lucky that butcher s is a laid back and warm environment and it s rewarding to witness the students proud moments of finishing a new project i ve learned that patience and encouragement and being able to multi task like krazy go the longest way as a sewing teacher if you re interested you can read more about the talented owner of butcher s on madalynne s blog here clockwise from top left sewing 101 students with their finished clutches a student s linden sweatshirt from my sewing with knits class me with a student in sewing 201 working on the salme kimono top photo by maddie found here and a student s finished deer doe plantain tee the rest of my time is spent doing custom projects and alterations i m trying to shy away from this type of work when possible because it takes a lot of unpaid time to meet with people and do fittings and the work can be unpredictable the majority of these type of clients so far have been friends or people i know though which is certainly more enjoyable that way clockwise from top left custom button back top for my friend charlotte duffel bag made from firefighter gear for a retired fireman a craftsy post i wrote on hemming jeans quite a controversial subject according to the comments and a flat tummy adjustment in progress on a rtw dress my hobby sewing and blogging as you know has slowed considerably but i have cranked out a couple easy things for myself in the wee hours i did sacrifice a whole work day and made hedgehog costumes for corey and me for halloween people thought we were lions i also took time where possible to make birthday and christmas gifts for some dear ones this year above wide wale corduroy pants i made for corey s birthday i used the thread theory jedediah pants pattern which fits him perfectly with no modifications he wears these cooooonstantly favorite makes this year clockwise from top left linden sweatshirt for myself in a loopy sweater knit portside duffel bag i m obsessed with i replaced that white zipper with a gold metal one and it s bangin several pairs of handmade underwear because i hate shopping for anything anymore hedgehog costumes made from fleece and a ton of felt triangles 2014 has been a truly bonkers and amazing year i almost can t believe this is my life now i certainly do not miss working in the office environment and never for a moment have regretted my decision working for myself of course comes with its own stressors like unreasonable deadlines taxes business licenses expense tracking clutter picky clients and 15 hour work days where i don t leave my house i work about 70 hours a week and earn less than half the income i had at my office job but i feel as though i own my stress because i can decide what work i m taking on in the end it s taken me awhile to build confidence and i still get frustrated at myself for making dumb mistakes or taking too long but i ve more often been proud of myself than anything for what i ve done so far so here s to another bonkers and amazing 2015 happy new year friends and i will see you on the other side posted by andrea four square walls at 2 49 pm email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels year in review wednesday november 12 2014 steaming out permanent creases on altered garments i seem to know a lot of tall guys poor guys can t find shirts or suit jackets that fit in the shoulders and chest and are long enough for their gorilla arms poor seamstresses me having to alter the tall guys sleeve lengths and mess with those awful mitered vents i will answer a couple major questions here can you lengthen a suit jacket sleeve despite the sad lack of internet tutorials on how to do so yes you can in this case i lengthened the jacket sleeves by 1 1 4 and added a facing so i would have enough fabric to recreate the sleeve vent the buttons along the back sleeve seam are not functional so i could pop them off and re position them after the sleeves were lengthened another major question can you get rid of that pesky horizontal crease that persists from the original factory pressed hem yes maybe not 100 but yes here is what it looked like before even after pressing and steaming steaming steaming with water multiple times many moons ago megan nielsen blogged about steaming out a seemingly permanent crease on her denim kelly skirt using a brown paper bag that she wet with a 50 50 mixture of white vinegar and water luckily i was able to find her post again here and followed her lead to remove the hem creases on this suit jacket i cut a scrap of brown packing paper from one of my far too frequent wawak mail orders then i dipped that in a mixture of white distilled vinegar and water i placed the wet paper on top of the creased area then steamed the daylights out of it held my iron there with constant steam for maybe 15 seconds until the paper was dry then moved to the next section side note i have a one size fits all iron shoe tied to my iron in case you re wondering what that thing is helps prevent scorching and shine and here s the finished sleeve after the vinegar magic show not bad the garment does not smell like vinegar though my sewing room and hands now do i ll also note that the thinner packing paper worked better on the crease than when i tried this with a trader joe s paper bag which is a bit thicker that s all just wanted to share this tidbit in case you ever have to alter clothes for a tall guy or gal have you tried this posted by andrea four square walls at 5 00 pm email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels alterations sewing sunday august 31 2014 how to gather fabric with a serger darlings i haven t had a moment to breathe sew much for myself since i last updated but i figured i could at least share some lil techniques i ve been learning on the job in my freelance work i often sew multiples of the same thing so i use those opportunities to try out different ways of executing the same step to see which method is fastest or looks the best gathering fabric is one of those obnoxious tasks that can be done a few different ways such as pulling on two parallel lines of basting stitches zig zagging over a strand of dental floss or string or using a gathering or ruffle foot on your machine those all work fine when they work i actually haaaaate gathering fabric because those methods very easily go wrong and can be time consuming especially when your threads snap and you have to start all over again and what if you need really dense gathers or your fabric is a bit thick a gathering foot won t do you much good there well i was recently commissioned to make 10 gathered party skirts for a local startup clothing line so i had to figure out a way to get fast and consistent results with sewing gathers or else the fabrics i m working with for these skirts are cotton sateen and silk taffeta and they have a skirt to waistband gather ratio of 2 75 to 1 so they re pretty frickin poofy and need a lot of gusto to gather i think 3 to 1 is the determined max limit on gathered skirt poof before it becomes like physically impossible to sew and maybe socially unacceptable to wear i knew in the back of my mind that sergers could gather fabric but i had never tried it so when i did try it i couldn t believe how much easier and faster it seemed all you have to do is adjust some settings on your serger and get gathering now of course this method can go wrong too as nothing in sewing is fool proof right this technique actually works in an opposite manner as the basting method because you gather the fabric as you serge and then loosen the gathers to fit this is unlike the basting method in which you typically tighten the gathers to fit this means you should test out your gathers on scrap fabric first to make sure it gathers tightly enough on your serger if the gathers are too loose after serging it will be difficult to tighten them up the first step is to set up your serger for four thread overlock the tightest gathers will occur if there are two needles engaged instead of one once you have threaded your serger properly tighten the tension of the two needles not the loopers which are typically the two leftmost dials for this particular project i needed to gather the fabric very tightly so i increased the needle tension as high as it would go which on my brother 1034d serger is at a 9 tension after some trials i found i achieved best results if my left needle is at 9 and the right needle is more like a 7 tension your machine may react differently i left the loopers at default tension which for my machine is a 4 next tighten the differential feed if you are able to the serger has two sets of feed dogs one in front of the other and the differential feed controls the ratio at which these feed dogs move the fabric under the presser foot a higher differential feed in this case a 2 will move the first set of feed dogs twice as fast as the second set which gathers up the fabric conversely a lower differential will move the first set of feed dogs more slowly which stretches out the fabric here i ve set it to the highest ratio possible now all you have to do is serge along the edge of the fabric and the machine will do the gathering work for you here is a video i took of the gathering at work this is high production value folks oh you re welcome keep in mind that the serger will gather along the edge so you may need the adjust your seam allowance first or serge so the blade cuts off part of the seam allowance if it is 1 2 or larger make sure the left needle of your serged seam does not extend past your desired seam allowance because the threads will then be exposed on your garment and they re hard to pick out neatly it may help to match your serger thread color to your garment but i did not do that here the skirt is lined and i did not want to spend money on four fuschia cones for one project if you are attaching the gathers to a flat piece of fabric it helps to have marked the gathered fabric and the flat fabric into fourths so it s easier to match up the points and distribute the gathers evenly below i have matched the quarter marks and then i gently loosened and distributed the gathers so they match the length of the flat fabric if you yank on the serging too hard to loosen it the threads may snap so be currful lots of pins help secure the gathers when you sew the ga...