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y to mid may is the best time to plant out the seedlings need a couple of months to grow big enough to plant out so i ll be germinating them early in march here is a tip the seeds are extremely small and so it is difficult to sow them in small numbers what i did was to shake some seeds out of the packet onto a sheet of plain white paper a4 size should do it is thus much easier to see the seeds my propagator were already prepared with each cell filled with damp compost so it was an easy matter to separate small groups of seeds from the pile i didn t actually count the seeds probably about ten i brushed shoved the little group onto another sheet of paper and from there into each cell of the propagator in turn one cell at a time don t forget to observe closely which cell of the propagator you have just done i use a little stick which i move from cell to cell of the propagator as i go along the seeds do not need to be buried just let them fall onto the surface of the compost my propagator is a simple unheated one with forty cells the pic is just for clarification it has a lid to germinate the seeds need to be in a warmish atmosphere i put the propagator on a shelf in the kitchen which is over a radiator the shelf gets warm and warms the propagator and its contents last year i bough a heated propagator so what i do now is still sow my seeds in the old unheated propagator and put the whole thing into my new heated propagator unfortunately at the beginning i personally had a disaster i was already late since i knew no better it turned out that the compost that i was using was sour that is it had been lying in the garage for years and had dried out completely thus rendering it very concentrated and acidic the seeds germinated ok but died a week or so after germination it was only when i remembered that lupin seeds had suffered the same fate that i realized that it was the compost that was the problem i started again with brand new seeding and cuttings compost and this time there was no problem the seeds germinated and thrived but i was curious i wanted to know whether or not a propagator was really necessary so just as an experiment i filled several 2 plant pots with my old sour compost i put the pots into an old washing up bowl and sprinkled seeds on the top of the compost i then covered the bowl with a hot damp towel after about five days the seeds germinated this proved to me that there is no need for propagators at all seeds can be sowed straight into pots all they need is a warm damp atmosphere and they will start to germinate in about five days here is a pic however we must bear in mind that using my garden soil was just an experiment it is much wiser to use a seeding compost rose recommends john innes no3 loam based compost i use just general compost it seems to be ok it takes only about five days for the seeds to start to germinate once they have germinated the seedlings will be ok in normal everyday temperatures try to avoid watering them for a few days to allow the roots to dig in a little the seedlings are likely to be barely attached to the soil compost at that stage if necessary mist them using a fine spray this is what the seedlings will look like after a few days at that point you can start to thin them out i use my fingers to grip the weaker looking seedlings which are close together and gently pull them out i like to leave about three well separated seedlings in each cell of the propagator or in each pot after about another two weeks you can expect them to look like this at this stage they grow very slowly it is not a bad idea to gently top up the soil compost to be level with the bottom of the leaves if you use a propagator then you will have to transplant the seedlings into pots it may be as well to let them grow in the propagator until they are reasonably big the bigger one in that pic is about 2 4 cm across transplanting the seedlings into pots is not is difficult at all simply use a teaspoon to ease the seedling out of a cell of the propagator gently does it because the seedlings might have longish taproots make a hole in the compost in the pot with your finger and slip the roots of the seedling into the hole put the seedlings deep into the hole right up to the bottom of the leaves and press the soil in around the hole ensure that compost is damp i poured very hot water into the compost filled pots to raise the temperature and to kill off bugs of course i allowed the compost to cool right down to room temperature before putting the seedlings in when i started my seeds off in 2013 i had a disaster although the seeds had germinated without trouble they failed to develop for weeks they sat in their pots about a centimetre tall with a couple of little leaves but did not grow i had tried to speed up the process by warming up the pots that was a big mistake i have found out since that tobacco plants will die if the temperature of the soil is above 40 c 40c is not a high temperature it is just warm i made a mistake by trying to increase the warmth of the seedlings in the mistaken belief that they would benefit and grow better they did not instead they began to die i had to start again and succeeded on the second attempt on that attempt once the seeds had germinated i put the propagator on the window ledge in the spare bedroom which faces south the radiator will keep the room at a temperature of about 20c which is fine yes the plantlets will grow very slowly but we must remember that the seeds are extremely small and the roots are also extremely small until the plants gain strength which takes some time so the order of the day is patience friends in general ordinary room temperature is fine that s about it for dealing with the seeds and seedlings preparing your plot there are three possibilities that occur to me 1 you live in a flat or apartment without balcony 2 you live in a flat with balcony or you live in a maisonette or house with very little garden space 3 you live in a house with sufficient garden space to create tobacco plots in case 1 you have no alternative but to grow tobacco plants within your home in that case the only limitation upon how many tobacco plants you should grow is how much space within your home you are prepared to grant to the plants they are big plants that is for you to decide i have been advised that the big problem with growing indoors is the lack of light as an experiment in 2013 i grew three plants in buckets of compost on the south facing window ledge the plants grew through their life cycle even unto flowering but they were small the biggest leaf was no more that 12 in length but do not be deterred you need experience in your first year especially you must take it as it comes a lot depends upon how much you smoke with all the implications which come with that thought in case 2 tobacco plants will grow happily in buckets remember that tobacco plants are generally speaking annuals that is that they have to be started from scratch from seeds every year here is a picture courtesy of leg iron of a plant happily growing in an ordinary bucket i have since learnt that there are important considerations when growing plants in buckets first the growing medium the soil in the bucket must be loose enough not to become compacted ordinary garden soil is too dense in itself in such a dense medium especially when confined in a bucket the roots of the plants cannot push their way into the soil the best bet is to use only compost i should think i saw a video which i have since lost which showed plants growing really well on a balcony in pots buckets perhaps extra fertiliser is the answer but i don t know in case 3 the whole situation changes it all depends upon how much of your garden you are prepared to sacrifice in my own case i found that i had an area which was available it had shrubs growing in it but not such as to be more than eye candy and not very pretty eye candy at that but i had to do the work involved in clearing the area i cleared an area some 18 feet by 5 feet sufficient for about 30 plants in cases 1 and 2 there is no plot preparation problem since there is no plot essentially you just grow your seedlings until they are reasonably big and then bung them in buckets full of compost no problem but in case 3 in order to produce the best yield it is worth your while to give the matter of plot preparation some consideration i can only describe what i personally have worked out remembering that i allocated a plot of some 18 feet by 5 feet i turned the ground over and removed weeds and such when my seedlings were reasonably big i planted them there was enough room for about 30 plants i also spread slug pellets around i shall show you a pic of the result after a couple of months notice that there is good growth on the left the white thing is a 12 30cm ruler but on the right and at the back the top of the pic the growth is pathetic what went wrong my answer is that i did not prepare the ground adequately when i turned it over i did not dig deep enough i did not loosen the subsoil sufficiently i did not de compact the soil my plants never had a real chance of putting their roots down i did not fertilize the ground i did nothing in preparation adequately nevertheless i did get a reasonable crop towards the end of that first year i extended the plot as you can see from the position of the silver birch tree top of pic i have cleared a load of useless shrubbery and expanded the plot a great deal now look at this pic all the plants had been harvested and the stalks removed but what is important is that i had double dug the plot thus opening up the soil to allow frost to enter deeply the frost will freeze the water in the soil and expand when the ice melts millions of holes will appear in the soil and be filled with nitrogen from the atmosphere the soil will be conditioned double digging means that i have dug deeply and reversed the levels of the soil the sub soil has become the top soil i do not expect to have to do this annually there were 20 years of neglect to take care of and loads of shrubbery roots and so on by the way my use of the word subsoil is wrong correctly it means soil which is below the soil in which plants grow and is normally undisturbed i use subsoil only to mean a lower strata the best way to double dig the plot is this given that you have a plot something like the above plot start at the furthest point away dig a trench across the plot put the soil from the trench on one side dig out a further spit a spade depth out of the trench and put that soil on one side now start another trench alongside the first put the first spit from the second trench into the first trench dig a second spit out of the second trench and pile that soil onto the top of the soil in the first trench thus the subsoil becomes the topsoil gradually work your way across the plot the last trench will be filled with the soil from the first trench my good friend rose told me that she liberally spreads manure over her plot each winter so that nutrients taken out of the soil by the plants are replaced she said that she has never had problems in re using the same plot year after year as a result i have been investigating the application of fertilisers after some messing about i came across the idea of bone meal now the basic ingredients of fertilisers are n p k standing for nitrogen phosphorus and potassium a general fertiliser will contain some average balance of the three elements bone meal has n and plenty of p but no k but k potash is readily available in wood ash what is cigarette ash if not wood ash so i have been saving cig ash all summer as it happens i have no need this year to double dig since i did so last year the main thing this year is to dig deep and add the fertiliser so that come spring the soil is ready i have made a start today since the weather is quite pleasant what i have done is merely dig deep and turn the soil over in big lumps leaving deep holes frost will get deep into the ground also when i spread fertiliser and cig ash over the plot that too will fall into the deep holes to some extent and get washed in by rain the progress of seedlings the seedlings grow slowly there is no doubt it takes weeks for them to get to a size where the leaves are 2 5cm long having said that once your plants reach this stage and you plant them out they grow like the clappers once they get going provided that the weather conditions are good but in my experience the rootballs of the seedlings are very small to start with i checked several of them this is why i think that 2 pots are sufficient here are a couple of pics of the root structure of the plants the first pic is of a couple of badly developed plants rather pathetic the roots of the 1st plant are only about 4 10 cm long those two plants are from the group which did not grow properly which i mentioned earlier the next pic is of a well developed plant though not nearly a fully developed plant you can see that they spread out and would appreciate depth of soil those roots are almost a foot 30 cm long the only other consideration of significance is when to plant out or put your buckets plant pots out if you are using a patio or a balcony the only important point is frost new tobacco plants do not like frost one little bit hereabouts i am aiming for mid may a very important consideration is the temperature of the soil there is little point in planting out if the temperature of the soil is less that 15 c they will not die but nor will they grow much better to keep them in pots and wait until the soil warms up i used an ordinary thermometer to test the temperature of the soil in my garden i suggest that you do likewise just make a hole in the soil and stick a thermometer in the hole about 4 inches 10 cm deep here is a pic of my thermometer it s only about 6 long but perfectly adequate when the soil temp gets to 15c then that might be warm enough to plant out there is also another point what is the point of planting out when the ground is cool and your plants will not grow much and put them in danger from slugs and snails i saved empty 2 litre pop bottles i cut the bottoms off but left the top including the bottle top intact when i planted out i covered each plant with a bottle forcing the bottle into the ground that created a mini climate inside the bottle the bottles also protect against slugs that pic is of my plot 2 the pop bottles worked fine and certainly created the microclimate and protected the plants from slugs but the slugs and snails had a fine feast once i took the bottles off i only found out what was happening around july when i went out about 2am and found to my horror that about 20 slugs and snails were munching away at my bedding plants and tobacco plants to make things worse it was the growing tips of the tobacco plants which they were eating before i investigated the question of how tobacco plants grow via the net i thought that the s...