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Text of the page (random words):
cking up out of the neckline if i d switched out the lapped zipper for an invisible one then the inside guts would have been a lot cleaner for some reason that day i d decided that we had to do a lapped zipper even though i hate them who knows what that s all about construction wise i found this one extremely easy sew some darts pleat the skirt do some hems heck i didn t even have to hand hem the skirt on this one simple rolled hem on the machine and you re done i did have to do an on the fly waist alteration thanks to the spandex in the sateen making that area too roomy the side seams were taken in an additional 1 2 and i made the side seam pleats deeper to match the bodice going down a size in the waist probably would have been smart to do in the first place knowing i was using a stretch woven that s ok though it worked out in the end pattern butterick 6556 fabrics used stretch cotton sateen from emma one sock we happen to have this in stock still pattern changes alterations 1 blended sizes 14 16 2 1 2 forward shoulder adjustment to shoulder seam and sleeve cap 3 dropped bust dart 1 and shorted waist dart the same amount 4 sway back adjustment of 1 2 5 removed 1 2 from the neckline see below for more info on that 6 removed 1 of ease at waist due to stretch woven 1 2 at each side seam 7 added 1 of length to the hem confessions advice confessions hmmmm i ve already confessed about my messy zipper insides and that s about the only naughty sewing issue that happened when making this dress advice i nailed the square neckline fit on this dress by some just winging it pattern fitting to remove the extra width i didn t need a small fold was made in the corner of the neckline and i taped it closed figured it wasn t much different than doing a sway back adjustment a poster in one of the gertie fb groups told me that i should have slashed into the neckline and rotated that width into the bust dart that does make sense but also this worked and was less work i probably should try the other method on a similar style if only to compare husband comment started singing u2 s song lemon declined to comment further as he was sure he already talked about this dress bonus son comment i think it s cute i love it and i love lemons the brainwashing has been successful my final thoughts this was a fun easy project for the start of spring it fits nicely and gives me plenty of room for moving around the only reason i m not wearing it more right now is because it s been crazy hot this weight of sateen will be nicer when we transition into fall and have some cooler temps and last but not least when people say nice dress you can say thanks it has pockets comments 0 email this blogthis share to x share to facebook labels butterick 6556 dress gertie review stashbusting sewalong 2017 flashback addicted to plaid 6 17 2018 well lookie here my camera card still has more unblogged garments on it there s also 3 different garments that haven t been photographed at all but now i m playing chicken with the summer sun if i could take blog photos successfully in the rain i d do it gotta keep that wet set from falling out before wash day momma don t have 2 hours to do that more than once a week anyway i m going to finally talk about one of my favorite makes of last year that somehow i ve mostly kept under wraps until now this dress is the complete opposite of the poor dragnor that didn t really work out several of you mentioned in the comments of that blog post that i look best with high contrast colors and here s proof of that the pictures for this dress were taken the same day as the dragnor pics all i did was change my hair style and a few accessories the pattern here is hollywood 1857 pictured below i bought it in a lot of 4 patterns and thought this one contained both a romper and shirtdress when it arrived it turned out to be a romper with an additional skirt you could put over the romper oops probably should have read some of the seller s description about the product sometimes i get excited and bid based solely on the pattern illustration and bust size i m not anti romper on other people but my romping days are done if they ever existed i ll keep my utilitarian english german irish insert other pale european based people here legs covered thank you very much but about that shirt dress now couldn t one create one with some minor pattern hacking time to get out the tissue and make it work spoiler hardly any work was required the original pattern drafter put the princess line seams in exactly the same location on the romper and the skirt they also marked the natural waistline on the romper and drafted the skirt to sit there all i had to do was draw a line across the waist of the various romper pieces and add seam allowance didn t have to do anything to the skirt other than omit the waistband how easy is that thank you past pattern drafter you did fine work since that part was easy i decided to complicate matters and make this design up in plaid congrats heather you now have to match plaids across princess line seams and a waist seam oh and you picked a plaid that s not symmetrical i m sure that won t come back and bite you in the ass spoiler it did decision 1 where did i want the bright red plaid to go in the lower corner or the upper corner went with lower corner as you can see decision 2 was i going to mirror the plaid across the front seam i probably would have if the back had a center seam since it didn t all the plaid was cut in the same direction decision 3 how much of an adult beverage should you drink before cutting plaids just kidding though i wish that alcohol could be blamed for my cutting screw up somewhere during the cutting marathon i flipped the direction of the fabric and cut several pieces with the red plaid block in the upper corner probably during a snack break hey it takes a long time to match plaid across 8 pieces the mistake was caught before i d finished cutting everything but there wasn t enough fabric to fix it i emailed linda in a panic and asked if we still had any of this fabric at work cause i d made a garment ending boo boo she emailed back that someone had placed an order for this fabric over the weekend but she thought there was a yard left the sewing goddess was with me because there was 1 5 yards after cutting that order it was just enough fabric to cut new pieces with the correct plaid match and the garment was saved thank god how else would i have gotten my blue steel on otherwise pattern hollywood 1857 slightly modified into a shirtdress fabrics used dress weight cotton plaid from emmaonesock sorry it s long gone pattern changes alterations 1 1 2 forward shoulder adjustment 2 1 4 sway back adjustment 3 1 2 extra ease added to waist and hips 4 waist seam added to create shirt dress 5 button placement slightly changed confessions advice confessions i have fitting problems with square necklines that don t happen with other neckline shapes pretty sure it has to do with my hollow chest and low bust point the annoying part is one fix doesn t seem to work on every square neckline on this dress it s a little too wide in the middle portion and will collapse in on itself one of these days i ll unpick my sewn down facings and take in the princess line seam above the bust until then i m just going to wear it as is and be slightly irked about the neckline is sewing plaid addictive and do i have a problem all signs point to yes husband comment it s plaid and similar to other things you wear the most pennsylvania dutch comment to date bonus son comment i would never wear plaid but you look good in it my final thoughts i should fix the neckline fitting issue and make more of these you can fit a whole smart phone ipod tape measure in those pockets all at once also where can i get more summery plaids feed my addiction people a girl has needs on that note i ll leave you with this picture of me being weird why am i doing this no idea feel free to speculate comments 0 email this blogthis share to x share to facebook labels 1940 s dress hollywoodpatterns review vintagepledge hollywood 1413 the easter outfit that wasn t 6 03 2018 hello everyone happy summer 2018 to you heat loving people out there you all are currently flooding my instagram feed with giant smiles on your faces as you gleefully break out your sandals finally it s warm and i can ditch this sweater you exclaim i m glad you are enjoying yourself heck i can semi empathise having grown up with a beach loving father and sister and a weather neutral mother they never thought the summer sun was a hateful orb sucking up all their life essence while simultaneously stabbing them in the eyes only i would be huddled under an umbrella hissing with distaste while successfully trying to read in the eye searing glare yes my friends in my immediate family i m the sole possessor of the nordic and or vampire genes of my ancestors if you re a long time reader of the blog this is no surprise i ve been bitching about summer for probably as long as i ve been blogging and will continue to do so however i will admit to liking two things about summer one fancy summer shoes and two wearing rayon dresses my closet is full of rayon dresses but there s always room for more which brings us to some sewing actually done in 2018 gasp so let s talk about hollywood 1413 aka the easter outfit that never was here in southern pa you have a 50 50 chance that easter sunday is going to be either 55 degrees or 85 degrees there is no inbetween in 2017 it was 85 degrees and my version of hollywood 1025 was not heat appropriate i wore it anyway because by god my sewing plans were not going to be ruined by a freak heat wave however the memory of unwanted sweating did trigger me to choose a flirty short sleeve dress pattern for easter 2018 it would look lovely paired with some stashed rayon from gertie s joann s line from the year before see a match made in heaven hollywood 1413 is full of 40 s design detail goodness the bodice features a ruched center that is created by putting a seam along the neckline that extends down toward the bust this makes it possible for center of the bodice pattern to be extended more ease added this extra ease is then gathered back into the seam area and sewn in place a jaunty little self fabric bow completes the neckline area the skirt features 3 tucks that radiate out of the left hip and a sewn in cascade the front skirt is pieced at the left hip to give you a seam for the cascade finally a bow belt balances out the bow on the opposite side of the bodice the back is pretty plain jane with standard darts and no design details not that i m complaining there were plenty of new techniques and hand sewing in this design already the sewing goddess has been very generous with larger sized 40 s styles this year and this pattern happened to be my bust size of 36 inches would i have purchased this in a 32 bust and graded it up probably not that ruched bodice detail might have discouraged me from trying as it was the pattern only needed minimal grading through the waist and hip to fit used my cheater method of slapping 5 on the side seams and called it good i did reference the instructions a few times since the drafting for the bodice ruching was totally new to me all the neckline edges are faced which means there is a set order of sewing that needs to happen or you ll bungle the whole thing up good news is that the original pattern drafter did do an excellent job giving you reference placement points there are various sized circles in the neckline area to help you line everything up after reading the sewing steps twice i was able to see what needed to be done and use these marks to assemble the neckline properly the skirt was a bit easier since sewing tucks is pretty much the same on any part of a garment the cascade was a no brainer just hand hem and insert into the seam i only wish my nails looked as good as the illustrations while doing a rolled hem hollywood 1413 was finished in plenty of time for easter 2018 a whole month ahead of schedule it didn t matter though because easter wasn t 85 degrees this year instead we came down on the 55 degree side of the coin obviously mother nature is trying to neg me by looking at my sewing plans and making the weather the opposite of whatever s coming out of the sewing machine oh well as you all may remember i put on hollywood 989 and saved this dress for hot weather now we ll be best buddies until the blessed fall breezes arrive pattern hollywood 1413 pictures above fabrics used rayon from gertie s joann s line in 2016 pattern changes alterations 1 1 2 forward shoulder adjustment to both shoulder and sleeve cap 2 1 2 extra ease added to waist and hip 3 dropped the bust dart 1 5 and waist dart point the same amount 4 added a 5 of length to the bodice 5 made 25 sway back adjustment confessions advice not too much to add here for this pattern will note that i spray starched the rayon fabric before cutting to make it less slippery then all the pattern pieces were carefully cut out on a single layer keeping the selvedges parallel with my cutting board this method worked with with this rayon which was on the less slippery side of the spectrum husband comment the swirly pattern on the fabric works well with the loose fit i think loose fit actually means the design elements if that s the case he might be learning something about sewing after hearing me natter on about it for 13 years my final thoughts this pattern perfectly scratched my intermediate sewing skills itch of wanting a bit of a challenge it was neither too easy or too hard but jusssst right comments 0 email this blogthis share to x share to facebook labels dress gertie hollywoodpatterns review stashbusting sewalong 2017 flashback suit jackets galore part 1 5 13 2018 confession i have always loved suits back in high school i had a black pinstriped pantsuit with a double breasted jacket that was my pride and joy it was a cheap ass polyester blend purchased at fashion bug but i felt like a million bucks in it one year i wore it to school with on halloween with heels and told people i was a lady mobster no one was charmed by my creativity or fashion sense however this was one of two instances that my highly insecure self said not outloud but internally fuck you guys i look good in this suit the other time was when a boy i d known for years disparagingly said i was the only girl he knew that had sideburns that time i internally said fuck you i have great hair all of this is a roundabout way of saying that in the summer of 2017 i blocked out about a month and a half to make a couple of suit jackets during the previous winter i d been constantly annoyed about not having enough dressy options that worked with the weather i didn t sew anything then for some reason probably distracted by cake instead i just bought several new pieces of wool while cackling with glee oh wool you complete me let s go get brunch h...