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g culture first by coach to wittenberg and luther s house initially an augustinian monastery and then a home for luther and his wife katherine their marriage had a pragmatic beginning she was one of twelve ex nuns needing homes and husbands there was no such thing as an unattached single woman of good character in the middle ages she would only marry luther so when she was 26 and he was 42 they were wed six children later 3 boys and 3 girls luther was writing to her as my dear lord and master katie when he died aged 56 his friend and colleague melaucthan became her legal guardian katherine was a good manager and business woman who made her family well off luther s house is also the home to the largest reformation museum it was in this house preparing his lecture on romans that luther formulated his key doctrine of justification by faith alone in the museum there is an actual indulgence chest for collecting the money from the sale of indulgences letters granting time off in purgatory guaranteed by the pope the chest was recently restored and when opened contained over 600 so people still think they can buy indulgences around the family table friends and students gathered with luther to talk and discuss and six volumes of the table talks were produced the museum repays multiple visits wittenberg is home to a famous university shakespeare s hamlet studied here and marlowe s dr faustus lived here the painter and apothecary cranach painted over 5 000 paintings here of which 1 000 remain as bright as they were on the first day he made his own paints and had a secret recipe st mary s the town church also known as luther s preaching church where he preached 1 700 sermons is at the end of the main street luther said one can preach over everything but not over 20 minutes some of his colleagues preached over two hours the town was full for the annual re enactment celebration of martin and katherine luther s wedding providing a kaleidoscope of music marching craft stalls with delicious street food we finished our visit by luther s grave in the castle university church where the famous 95 theses were supposed to have been nailed to the door though both church and wooden door have been renewed since then by coach to the cultural hub of leipzig home to j s bach for 27 years as cantor at st thomas church leipzig is also the birth place of wagner home to felix mendelssohn and schiller who wrote ode to joy here mahler grieg and schumann and also still home to one of the world s best orchestras day five on 10 june 2017 by andrew nunn martyn is our germany correspondent on day five on the luther pilgrimage we awoke to the results of the uk election and found we were once again living in exciting times we left down town erfurt which emerged as a lutheran city with a sunny relaxed atmosphere the day lay open before us as we said morning prayer and welcomed rosemary nutt from mccabe pilgrimages for her first day with us on the pilgrimage bus heading for eisleben here we learnt that luther had been baptised at the bottom of the tower of what was to become the beautiful church of st peter and st paul with its modern immersion pool in front of the congregation before the bible on the altar here we all renewed our baptismal promises renewing baptismal promises we also visited the site of the house where luther was born in 1483 which burnt down two centuries later to be rebuilt as a school house and in 1693 the first public museum devoted to luther s remarkable role the site of luther s birth we also had time to see the church of st andrew where martin luther gave his last sermon before passing away without elaborate rites but many of his family and close friends and supporters around him in 1645 the church of st andrew our bus then took us the short distance across undulating countryside with occasional slag heaps to remind us of the mining history of the region to the industrial city of halle with its medieval centre here we viewed luther s death mask in the vast tall church called the market church with its twin spires behold the man before driving on to leipzig we had a fascinating visit to a fine museum about the life and work of handel who was born in halle and of course died in london and listened to his music we were reminded of what martin luther was recorded as stating the devil is a sad spirit and likes sad people therefore he cannot bear merriment this is the reason why he flees as far as possible from music he doesn t stay where people sing day four on 9 june 2017 by andrew nunn today s correspondent from germany is vanessa the pilgrims spent today in the city of erfurt named by st boniface who established it bishopric in 742 the name means ford over the muddy river the river gera branches a great deal within the city so it is sometimes called little venice one of the most famous sights is the merchants bridge where the river is crossed by a row of medieval houses still inhabited today an inhabited bridge as the uk went to the polls we began today s walking tour by an imposing statue of luther over the words in german of ps 118 v7 i shall not die but live and proclaim the works of the lord the great man with that in mind we proceeded to the day s highlight the visit to the augustinian monastery where luther spent his first years as a monk i felt a little ambivalent as a keen supporter of a monastic community about the prospect of an insight into the life which luther later rejected however it was moving to see a reconstruction of luther s cell in one which he would certainly have used luther s cell the church had towering stained glass windows at its west end remarkably they were 700 years old with some restoration the central panel showed the nativity and the virgin mary was dressed in brown she could not have been shown in blue in erfurt a city whose wealth came originally from trading in woad brown signified her humility beautiful glass our mid morning devotion was held in the chapter house pope benedict vi met lutheran church leaders here as we worshipped we stood on the same tiled floor as luther before us it was pointed out to us that it was here in his monastic life that luther discovered the truth that the love and grace of god are freely given to us and to be lived by us the chapter house nearby a crypt area commemorates the cellar in which 267 people died while trying to shelter from a world war two bombing raid only a small girl and a dog survived in the corner was a votive stand in front of a cross of nails given by coventry cathedral nails that are links to coventry and the cross a free afternoon provided a chance to visit the old synagogue dating from around 1100 and converted into a store room after the pogrom of 1349 it now houses medieval manuscripts and a treasury of remarkable silverware and jewellery the most memorable being an elaborate early 14th century jewish wedding ring o god you pour out your love upon us freely help us to meet all the changes and challenges on our life s pilgrimage in the strength of your abundant grace through jesus christ our lord amen day three on 8 june 2017 by andrew nunn another gill wrote this blog on her experiences on day three an early start for the pilgrimage this morning as we left at 8 30am for our visit to eisenach the western most town in the former east germany bill clinton came here in 1998 as the first us president ever to visit east germany and spoke of freedom and opportunity to the enraptured mass crowd we learnt that the 1989 revolution when the border wall came down was actually spearheaded by lutheran pastors a wall built as an anti fascist protection mechanism for east germany en route we passed marburg the place where luther and zwingli met to try and form one reformation movement but without success their differences over the interpretation of the eucharist christ s actual presence in the bread and wine as opposed to the symbolic nature of bread and wine proved unresolvable a delicious lunch soon we were crossing into the former east germany and glimpsed the light tower and watch tower at the former border many of us felt a frisson of unreality as we passed into an area that had for so long remained inaccessible to so many brooding skies after a speedy lunch we made our way to wartburg castle begun in 1067 and located 660ft above eisenach some of us clambered up the steep stairs and paths to the top others perhaps more sensibly arrived by minibus and less out of breath the views across the thüringen landscape were stunning albeit shrouded in cloud with occasional ferocious downpours luther hid in wartburg castle after being declared an outlaw literally outside the law at the diet of worms it was here that he translated the new testament into german from the greek a task he completed in just 11 weeks a remarkable achievement for a man who knew little greek when he started he took a further 12 years for him to translate the whole bible into german today 60 of luther s translation still feature in the german luther bible bach s house from wartburg we returned to eisenach the place of bach s birth in 1685 his baptism and where he lived for the first ten years of his life in the bach haus one of the oldest residential buildings in the town next door the bach museum provides a wonderful opportunity to listen to his music and understand more of his life story we were treated to a short recital of his music played on 200 300 year old instruments including organs clavichord and harpsichord to conclude our day we enjoyed a short service in st george s church where rather wonderfully we came across a group of norwegian pastors and friends travelling on their own luther tour worship our band of weary but enthusiastic pilgrims then made their way to erfurt to be greeted at the hotel by rosemary nutt from mccabe pilgrimages wonderful to see her day two on 7 june 2017 by andrew nunn jill is one of the group of pilgrims she wrote this following our visit to st stephen s church yesterday where we were treated to an array of beautiful blue stained glass windows designed by marc chagall we set off on foot from the hotel to explore mainz o happy band of pilgrims passing the carnival fountain en route we visited the gutenberg museum johannes gutenberg was born in 1400 and was the first to use a printing press with moveable metal letters thus introducing the era of mass communication he first adapted a wine press for use as a printing press and one of our group volunteered to show how this was done following a detailed demonstration having a go at printing gutenberg was considered to be man of the millennium in terms of the impact of his invention followed by columbus and martin luther in third place we visited st martin s cathedral where we observed a minute s silence as 12 noon 11am uk time we then dispersed to seek out lunch first visiting the banks of the rhine after lunch we travelled to worms and visited the main lutheran church there which was originally built in the 18th century on the place which was thought to be where luther appeared before the diet of worms much of the church had been rebuilt following the second world war we took the opportunity to enjoy an ice cream and then a group photo in front of the luther memorial before moving onto the site of former archbishop s palace where it is believed that luther refused to revoke his writing in front of the holy roman emperor charles v here i stand i can do no other are the words attributed to luther and have meaning for the german people today by standing in his big shoes big shoes to fill our next stop was st peter s cathedral and then the jewish cemetery which survived the war and house some ancient graves then finally back to the coach where we could reflect on an interesting and thought provoking day a letter from germany day one on 7 june 2017 by andrew nunn this blog was written by mark one of the pilgrims in the group some of the pilgrims having arrived at frankfurt airport we made our way by coach to mainz and the roman catholic church of st stephen which was founded about 900 established as a collegiate establishment of secular canons and was the imperial oratory for the holy roman emperor the existing church was severely damaged in the second world war it was restored after the war and is now noted for the wonderful stained glass by marc chagall church and cloister they are dedicated to the glory of god and in appreciation joy and hope of man sign of the bond between jews and christians the friendship between france and germany the understanding between all peoples praise the lord all ye works of the lord praise the lord light and darkness daniel 3 following a tour of the church we held a short service of prayer in the chapel of st pankratius off the cloister this is a prayer of fr klaus mayer the parish priest who approached chagall to design stained glass for the church god of our fathers in thy goodness thou hast revealed thyself to us and given us thy word as light on our way to life we beseech thee let us be touched by these church windows which were created to thy glory and to strengthen our faith and bring joy open our own ears and hearts and those of all visitors to this church to receive the message of the bible which radiates from this work of art let it be a symbol of peace a call to love of god and mankind understanding and reconciliation lord hear us and be merciful to us amen ps on 5 june 2017 by andrew nunn the pilgrims in germany have offered to write the blog thank you so watch out for posts from those who are making this pilgrimage i m looking forward to reading what they re up to luther but in london on 5 june 2017 5 june 2017 by andrew nunn the pilgrimage began today the group from london flew from heathrow others flew from bergen a couple headed off on the train eventually all arrived in frankfurt all except me the terrible events of saturday evening the terrorist attack on people on london bridge and in the borough market has meant that i had to make the difficult decision stay or go in the end i had to stay the cathedral cannot open being at the centre of all that happened we are at the heart of the cordon that the metropolitan police have established so that the forensic investigations can take place to be honest it feels well weird being unable to get into the place where we worship and work and day after day welcome people constantly through the doors is like being made homeless i have realised how much our ministry is about reflecting the hospitality of god open doors space for people to pray or sit or cry or whatever they need space for is fundamental to who we are and what we do of course we can worship outside visit people where they are go out rather than welcome in but there is something that is lacking my house shall be called a house of prayer for all peoples isaiah 56 7 that was a prophecy quoted by jesus as he cleansed the temple and effectively welcomed all the nations...