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ies last week i went to the leith farmer s market as i mentioned i might and took a bracing walk from the tram to the market the space held maybe 20 25 stalls including typical offerings such as fruit bread and fish and other items like hot sauce kombucha prepared salads and pastries i chose two salads one was quinoa carrot and potato the other was pomegranate sweet potato and spinach at the bread stall i bought a pear tart frangipane custard and at the fruit stall i found fresh scottish strawberries and a personal sized watermelon delish at the cheese and meat stall i bought a little pecorino cheese with orange it sounded good at the time although i was shocked to find out that this 3 oz cheese was 8 there i go again complaining about the cost i m such an old lady sometimes there was a stall dedicated to a graphic artist and his work and i bought a small poster which i will frame and hang up when i get home and i bought some copper and silver earrings in the shape of manta rays from blue kitty creations of course i don t think of manta rays and edinburgh having any special connection but they were lovely and i couldn t pass them by the mist over the city obscures new town this past saturday i woke up to a town wreathed in mist that hung around all day long obscuring the sky obscuring the streets people and cars appearing suddenly in front of you when you least expected it the spookiness thrilled me actually and i loved walking around edinburgh in the smirr as if the whole city were disguised i took the bus to southbridge then walked down the east side of the royal mile to get to holyrood palace a place i ve been meaning to visit these past four years but have only now gotten to there were a few interesting signs on the walk including one advertising the scottish poetry library at crichton s close which i may have to investigate at some point and another one at st john s pend which memorialized the knights of st john and houses occupied by famous families and occasionally by smollett i vaguely remember reading the adventures of peregrine pickle in my 18th century lit class many many years ago i also passed by the scottish parliament house which apparently can be visited by the general public but it was locked up tight on saturday even mps need a day off i guess holyrood palace holyrood palace is a working palace which means that prince charles and queen camilla conduct scottish business here and stay in the palace when they are in town it is more comfortable and more recently built than edinburgh castle although recent is a misnomer being as the palace was built up in the 16 th century but bits had been around earlier dinners meetings with dignitaries and other formal events are held here pope leo even met king charles here i liked the palace very much with its dark brocades and many tapestried rooms the wooden floors creaked and the paintings were interesting especially in the great hall where artist jacob de wet had painted almost 120 portraits of royalty real and imagined although the hall only featured about 97 at the request of charles ii de wet painted one painting a week for two years in order to shore up charles right to the throne and to emphasize his ancestry each of the paintings bore charles nose even the few women on display once you know this fact you can t unsee the nose it s everywhere i can t imagine painting a new portrait each week i can barely imagine writing a poem once a week let alone create a whole painting off the great hall is henry stuart lord darnley s bed it s walled off in glass so that it can t be touched perhaps the fabrics are too delicate but the bed was enormous strangely the bed is considered darnley s although if i understood the audio tour correctly the bed dates from 100 years later meanwhile the upstairs rooms belonged to mary queen of scots and you have to climb this tiny steep spiral staircase to access them the dimmest lighting fills the larger of her rooms with few sconces and spotlights on specific items especially the jewels darnley s locket interested me the most it s in the shape of a heart with enamel cutouts including a figure of a man presumably darnley with a flower coming from his private parts to symbolize his son there were also other jewels including a parure that mary gave her favorite lady in waiting who apparently lived with her in exile in queen elizabeth s castle for most of the 19 years mary was imprisoned mary s rooms highlight the tour of holyrood and apparently there is a bloodstain on the floor where darnley killed mary s italian secretary david rizzio in 1566 but i didn t see it i m glad i didn t see it by the way i have no pictures of inside the palace because photographs aren t allowed hmy britannia another local sight of interest is the royal yacht britannia this was the monarchy s yacht commissioned in 1954 a couple of years after queen elizabeth ii became the queen it first sailed to malta from portsmouth allowing prince charles then age 6 and princess anne then age 4 to meet back up with their parents after their parents long tour of the commonwealth and what is interesting to me is that for all its luxury the ship seems small perhaps intimate would be a better word although how intimate can it be with all its staterooms and a dining room dripping in silver that can seat over 20 people the drawing room i like how comfortable the rooms are with soft couches and chairs that invite a person not a paying visitor obvs to sit and take a moment to enjoy the space there are drawing rooms and living rooms and several nooks throughout the ship designed to take tea or breakfast or simply to sit at as well and areas where the family could privately congregate away from visitors as for bedrooms i was surprised how small the beds are they are only size double because they couldn t bring any larger mattresses on board something to do with the doors i d guess and both the queen and prince philip had their own staterooms and dressing rooms it seems a little strange to me but i suppose each member of the royal family always enjoys their own room and space it is the privilege of the wealthy not to have to share unlike the crew who crammed into their bunks by the dozen the engine room what was also kind of cool is that we could look down below and see the engines and machinery used to run the ship the noise must have been phenomenal and the heat when the ship was moving i can imagine it was terrible to be down there also down below were a sick bay the surgery and hospital beds in case anyone should come down ill and on the sides of the ship were a luxury speedboat and a sailboat overall a floating palace 412 feet from stem to stern the foredeck the royal yacht britannia has five decks and a lovely open space on the prow to sit and take the sun i can imagine that in summer the queen and philip lay out on chaises on the wood deck her in a huge brimmed hat with sunglasses like a movie star and him wearing a button down shirt and shorts perhaps their children played with a bouncy ball and tried very hard not to toss it overboard i was thinking this as i found a seat and enjoyed the sea air which wasn t as salty as i would have liked and people watched for a while but eventually i exited the ship and went into the royal deck tearoom which is on the tour for a cream tea and a sparkling water a cream tea comes with a fruit sultana scone a plain scone butter and clotted cream and jam as well as tea and milk i sat in the very center of the room jealous of the people to my right who got to look straight out onto the water the tearoom was fancy and the silverware sparkled and my scones were good though though they took a little while to come out they were being baked next weekend i ll be taking a boat tour of the firth of forth basically the forth is a giant estuary near the bridges and i will see about heading to portobello beach for a little sun of course visiting the beach is weather permitting but i already bought my boat ticket so i ll go on that trip no matter the weather you can be sure i ll be writing about those excursions too so keep a lookout for another post these tasted amazing note to self cheese and orange do not mix my pear frangipane leith farmer s market my new earrings everyone needs their own personal watermelon the inner courtyard at the palace entrance to holyrood abbey ruins the holyrood fiddler the abbey ruins outside the abbey ruins some flying buttresses entrance to the outer courtyard of holyrood abbey ruins abbey ruins inside the abbey entrance to the abbey a view outside the gates of holyrood sign in front of the parliament outside of holyrood i m going to go here at some point scottish parliament outside the gates the sign that mentions smollett look at this guy he thinks he owns the world a rando pigeon sculpture i found on leith street a fancy speedboat the ship is so long you can t get a full picture of it i think this is the ship s doctor s desk the surgery what s on tap at the prince s personal bar sick bed in the sickbay imagine being a crewmember and having to sleep in those tiny bunks a small silver model of the hms thunderer 1872 the prince s office the queen s office the dining table a breakfast nook a small statue of a silver ship behind glass so there s a glare the queen s cozy sitting room closeup of the side of the ship they re sitting where i d like to sit the foredeck a cozy couch beside big windows the hallway between staterooms prince philip s stateroom the queen s stateroom the foredeck the private dining room for the captain of the ship a scale model of the britannia share this email a link to a friend opens in new window email share on facebook opens in new window facebook share on linkedin opens in new window linkedin share on x opens in new window x share on pinterest opens in new window pinterest like loading posted in travel tagged edinburgh holyrood palace leith leith farmer s market leith market mary queen of scots prince philip queen elizabeth ii royal yacht britannia scotland scottish poetry library tobias smollett leave a reply dispatch from edinburgh 4 isle of skye redux posted on july 7 2026 by jc reilly 2 occasionally i think back to the trip i took to the isle of skye in 2023 and remember what a beautiful place it is with its winding roads and green green mountains spangled with purple foxglove and sheep when i visited there before i fell a little more in love with scotland and it s said that if you re not careful once you ve been to skye the faeries will get their hooks into you and a part of you will stay there forever it must be the case for when i returned i felt a little more whole those rascally faeries must have kept a little of my soul with them and lent it back to me for the time i was there but i m getting ahead of myself the morning i left it was sunny in edinburgh and not too cold i walked from my flat to the bus station the streets empty stopping periodically to rest my bad foot i checked in with the rabbie s crew then had the horrible realization that i forgot my charger for my phone talk about bad luck there was no way i could make it through the weekend on one charge think of all the photos i would miss so the newspaper shop in the bus station extorted me to the tune of 40 to buy a plug and cable i suppose you could say i was lucky that they sold them but i wince at the money i spent then i went next door to the little café to buy a coke zero and a lovely carrot cake cupcake with inch thick cream cheese icing remember i like to eat my calories not drink them i waited patiently for our bus to arrive drank some coke zero and shoved it in my backpack what i didn t realize is that i hadn t secured the cap very well so soda went everywhere in my bag fortunately not all of it spilled but it was enough that my hoodie which i had shoved into my backpack was soaked and it got all over my phone and wallet my phone was fine though that was the second instance of bad luck of the day but i wasn t going to let something like that bother me by the time the bus pulled out of the station it had started to rain the third bit of bad luck this was unfortunate because i had forgotten to pack my raincoat although i suspect that it was forgotten in the sense of not wanting to carry it around the waterproof as they call it is indeed a good rain jacket but it is also hot and heavy since it s lined and i didn t really want to carry it plus i thought it was supposed to be sunny on skye and that i would be ok with just my hoodie that s not to say i forgot it on purpose i did really mean to take it but i think subconsciously i left it behind it was a choice i would come to regret cold water swimmers on loch lubnaig on our trip west through the trossachs it rained then we stopped at loch lubnaig which lay between mountains ben vorlich and ben ledi and the sky was low and moody the rain having picked up even further several swimmers were out in the loch their neon colored swim floaties adding a dash of color to the dreich day and the temperature was clearly dropping so i don t know what they were thinking but they seemed happy enough even with the rain if i had worn my raincoat i would have been perfectly content with the weather as well as it was i was wearing my coke zeroed wet hoodie which only got wetter the longer i studied the fools on the loch so i headed back inside the bus to wait for everyone else to arrive etive mor the rain became hateful for a while smearing across the windows of the bus as we drove so you could hardly see out everything a dull gray smudge of landscape but we drove to etiv mòr and i dutifully jumped out for a photo the rain had tapered off a bit and then off to the three sisters you may ask don t i get bored of seeing these mountains the answer is no not really i think everyone on their way through the highlands stops in these places so you just get used to seeing them if you go to the highlands but as for me when it comes to the three sisters i find them rather holy and they show different moods depending on the weather in the rain they seem a little bewitching a little shy and the clouds are low over their peaks as if they are three ladies standing together behind coquettish fans eilean donan castle with the scottish saltire flag flying and then we were moving again up towards skye for a stop at eilean donan castle the last time i stopped at the castle it was also raining but this time i was especially cold so i passed through the giftshop to stop at the café and enjoyed a deluxe grown up hot chocolate i m not sure what made it grown up it had marshmallows real marshmallows not those preservative laden monstrosities we have in the states and whipped cream and chocolate shavings it was so warming and cozy that i hated to go back out in the rain but out i went i thought about crossing the bridge to the castle not that i wanted to go in the castle but it s nice the way the island juts out into...