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from the marshy levels leads to a stark contrasts in the aspect of the land and the ferocity of the weather just below the huge communications mast above wells sits a lonely chunk of moorland some despondent looking sheep a cross roads and an old pub h ere is another fine example of what is missing from so many pubs up and down the land and which almost by default crafts an exceptional hostelry continuation of ownership this pub has been in the watchful hands of dors family for three generations and the fourth is currently in training originally a farm which had a licensed room to supplement its sheep business the pub slowly became the mainstay of the operation although current governor roger still has a few acres under pasture nothing much changed in this utilitarian agricultural pub until the early 1960s when roger inherited and did the old place up the result is an eclectic delightful and surprisingly mellow mixture of flagstone authentic brass and inglenook with curved deco woodwork formica and tat three bars set around a single servery each have their own distinct feeling the public bar is as it should be spartan and child free with not a scrap of shag pile or upholstery to be seen here the local farming community and other hill folk mix in good and occasionally raucous humour with the new money finding its way slowly up the mendip escarpment good micro brew ale is racked behind the bar and dispensed into proper handled and dimpled glasses unless otherwise requested at a price which can keep even the hard up drinking most of the night the little snug to the right of the entrance usually hosts a few mendip geriatrics supping at the same schooner of sherry they ordered some days ago but who will generally involve you in their conversations of declining moral standards and the dark agenda of the eu finally there is the family room at the back reached by a separate entrance from the street frontage barbour clad parents often walk here to park their broods in the ample garden adjacent while they heal their fraying nerves with buckets of wilkins farmhouse cider by the fire mobile phones are strictly prohibited throughout as is moving the furniture or rushing the landlord exceptional value simple but pleasing food also features during trading hours and there is also a large function room and skittle ally if you have need of them go especially when the weather is at its bleakest when this portion of mendip becomes a little piece of wind blasted hebridean heath and sit inside this warm bastion of civility as the tempest batters impotently at the door posted by j ward esq at 20 12 2 comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels beer best and worst cider hunters lodge priddy somerset unspoilt sunday 15 september 2013 bourton on the water the prettiest shit house in england i recently holidayed in the cotswolds now i hate a great deal of the cotswolds or rather i hate what has been done to the cotswolds over the last 20 30 years there is no doubt that at one time it must have been a truly stunning area beautiful pastoral farmland enclosing time forgotten little villages looking as though they had grown out of the landscape and peopled by honest hardworking country folk of a modest and good humoured bent today though virtually all that once made this area special is gone swept away under a tide of london money suburban housing farrow ball pony paddocks tourists and range rovers business ecumenical stonework mainly has taken me to this part of the world on many occasions meaning i can safely say that bar a few little islands people have forgotten to spoil the cotswolds must vie with cheshire surrey and knightsbridge for the title of most over moneyed culturally barren and disconnected of lands in britain one morning the group i was with requested to leave the nice little corner of north gloucestershire we were staying in actually the vale of evesham but has been enveloped by the cotswolds thanks to the work of greedy estate agents who keep expanding its boundaries in order to see the sights regrettably the warnings i issued about the dinky bourgeois tourist towns clustered around the fosse were not heeded and i found myself on a sticky monday afternoon in august trapped in one of the worst places i have ever had the misfortune to enter bourton on the water i would rather spend a cold wet afternoon wandering around the fish gutting yards of peterhead than 10 minutes of bourton in the height of tourist season the little town was utterly engulfed bus after bus lined up in the car park pouring two thirds of coventry half of birmingham and most of japan into the single long street by the river the average age was 65 the average weight 19 stone every scrap of grass was covered with sprawling people every bench occupied every pavement an impassable morass of the doddery the camera wielding and endless ranks of pushchairs it was as though a madman had built a little market town in the middle of a large municipal park or else created a huge open air and overly popular exhibition of richard curtis england i found myself wondering as i absentmindedly kicked small children into the stream what brought all these people to this nasty little town why here what s the attraction clearly i was missing something it cannot purely be a sense of history after all lots of places in england are old indeed some far older than bourton and have a much more interesting narrative than this sleepy little backwater by the same token it cannot be the unspoilt nature of the place the town is like looking over the ravaged carcass of what england once was a corrupted and ruined husk trampled underfoot by the hoards and cynically usurped for the purposes of fleecing the gullible masses who pass through to that end the town s shopping is beyond a joke where once there would have been butchers bakers and candlestick makers there now exists a vast parade of pointless and pretentious boutiques selling the very worst kind of tasteless crap artfully displayed in delicate little gatherings the kind of shops which ought to trade under the single generic name tat old and new equine and chintz in fact the nearest thing to reality on the main street is a lone branch of the ever present spar left almost ironically and presumably for the convenience of restaurant and shop workers no one can possibly live here finally i am aware this blog is primarily about pubs bourton s pubs are certainly not worth travelling for in fact there aren t any there are a few buildings which outwardly profess to be pubs but in reality they are like the rest of the town a shoddy and risible sham trading on the lure of jam jerusalem and a delusion of adequacy to hoodwink the weak willed the unimaginative and the naïve to those who maybe planning a trip to this part of the world go anywhere else but here the slaughters are pretty but poncy the swells are pleasant and the guitings are genuinely lovely if it is a town you are after stow on the wold is slightly less ghastly than bourton and has one good pub donnington s queens head chipping camden is pleasant though disgustingly rich while winchcombe a 20 minute drive away is a real delight my advice to those who may find themselves trapped here would be to do as i did kill or estrange yourself from whom ever inflicted a visit to this ungodly place upon you get out quickly and never go back posted by j ward esq at 20 02 3 comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels beer best and worst bourton on the water cotswolds ruined friday 30 august 2013 a good gastro pub do they exist recently i went out with some friends over bristol way for a bite to eat ordinarily i would be happy with a few pints and a cheese roll in my local but on occasion i do enjoy a good feed around and about one bright spark suggested a local pub known for its food now i treat any dining experience in a pub with due suspicion food in pubs is not something i am against per se but more often than not when entering a food focused pub i am greeted with the sight of a disembowelled hulk of a once promising looking local bedecked in a clumsy faux rustic fashion and served platefuls of matter and chips prepared in industrial microwaves by an unenthused youth in stupid trousers my rules for pub food or more exactly a pub which serves food are simple do it well or not at all and never let the dry trade impinge on or drive away a pub s mainstay of drinkers after all a pub without drinkers is a restaurant s uitably guarded the party pulled up outside the forage inns group bird in hand of long ashton we enter into the large public bar there is a lively drinking session already well underway every bar stool is occupied every table filled and every glass making regular trips toward a mouth bath ales gem butcombe bitter the ubiquitous but still excellent doom bar and the justly prized st austell tribute are offered from hand pull the first and last are sampled and both are in truly fine form the bar is bright and lively the custom friendly and enthused and the décor pleasingly contemporary white walls and scrub top tables none of that faded half attempted pastiche tat which i so detest we are even spared the usual hateful enquiry as to our gastronomic intentions as soon as the drinks order is lodged which usually elicits a violent reaction from your correspondent and are you dining with us this evening indeed it is up to us to disclose that one of the more organised members of the party has reserved a table in advance just as it ought to be we were then shown through into the considerably quieter eating area to the right with places set candles and small floral displays the tempo here is calmer and refined dimly lit and elegant it is at this moment when i start to think this is a pub out of the ordinary the bird in hand just about defines what i expect from a really good food pub dare i even say gastro pub a proper bar area filled to the rafters with waifs and strays all carrying on in traditional riotous pub form then separated off a purpose built dining area for those interested in enjoying a good meal away from the frenzy of the boozy play room giving each set of clientele space to be fish and chips and pint menus are presented a little typed piece of paper with a reassuringly small selection of changing dishes everything is made on site from the bread to the black pudding while the fish is delivered daily meat sourced locally and much of the herbs mushrooms and such foraged from the surrounding country by the chef and his staff i opt for the provençal fish soup followed by posh fish and chips battered hake celeriac chips and pea puree it is quite simply one of the very finest meals i have had in a long time everything is delicious i am reliably informed that the brazed lamb teamed with a powerful sicilian red by the glass was also excellent we finished the meal replete and suitably merry basking in the warm glow of a very rare and fine pub operation someone in the set up genuinely understand what customers want and how to accommodate it comfortably and considerately we departed around 11pm when the bar trade was still going strong though perhaps lapsing into the dispassionate drinking phase as the toll of the evenings enjoyment began to be felt i then spotted that the kitchen provides home made scotch eggs sausage rolls and crispy pigs ears to the bar trade for those who simply wish to line the stomach the bird in hand is pub truly befitting the title of gastro pub it is a venue which places as much emphasis on the pub part of that phrase as the gastro the wet trade of the operation is a buzzing public bar selling good quality beer and cider to an appreciative audience the dry trade manages to neatly avoid straying into the realms of an over blown expensive restaurant with rural pretense though is able to provide a sophisticated and deeply impressive dining experience when required it is heartening for this jaded hack to find that such places exist among the mire of disappointing eating houses both pompous and just plain crap and that some people in the trade know how to use food correctly as a diversification of a pub s offering while never forgetting the reality of what a pub fundamentally is for posted by j ward esq at 14 52 1 comment email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels beer best and worst bird in hand fine food gastro pub long ashton pubs thursday 22 august 2013 notes from home part ii the seymour arms main street witham friary somerset ba11 5hf www heritagepubs org uk pubs national inventory entry asp pubid 142 s ome people in this word will travel to the ends of the earth to broaden their horizons i go to witham friary this pub is a glorious unconscious snapshot of how life once was in the pleasant pastures of rural england in days long gone it is a pub which the modern world has forgot to ruin and apart from the occasional new light bulb is still as it would have been in 1959 even the crass intrusion of a till is spared in this wonderful time capsule the coins and notes of the day s trade are artfully arranged in a series of small wooden pots on the back of the counter the pub was originally built as a large inn by the duke of somerset s estate to serve the railway station at witham where the gwr mid somerset branch to bristol via wells and yatton left the mainline sadly the branch line and station fell prey to beeching s lunatic axe of the 1960 s leaving this stately pile suddenly marooned in a rural backwater to begin a new life as an unpretentious local tavern reminders of its previous incarnation can still be seen today from the splendid ornamental cast iron sign to the former glazed hotel reception desk which now serves as the bar the two public rooms either side of the main corridor servery are simply furnished with old benches and tables the public bar has bare flagstone floors and a dart board while the commercial room another reminder from its hotel past is carpeted after a fashion with old service bells let into the walls and an antique bar billiard table for entertainment the locally renowned smoking shelter constructed of rusty scaffold poles with an old tarpaulin lashed across also features it is however the wonderful mix of people from near and far that make this pub truly special well heeled devotees of good honest public houses rub shoulders with the cider addled denizens of field and ditch leading to a fascinating miss match of accents cultures and professions this is a pub where all those who come are treated as equal regardless of your wealth education or state of sobriety and everyone will have something to say anecdotes regarding cider related mishaps with heavy agricultural machinery mingle with fascinating stories from they outsiders about that exotic and distant place called london the pub serves no food save peanuts and chocolate bars but sti...