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up and burning makes cutting easier bostik top coat i spray the tops of my table saw band saw drill press planer and other metal tools with this product it keeps them cleaner prevents stuff from sticking to the tops and makes everything slide freely across the surface no silicone in it and it won t mess up finishes on wood bostik bearing lubricant i use this on the bearing in router bits and on machine parts that need to slide or move freely another problem that happens when you find a used dremel tablesaw is that the very thin wrench that goes against the inside of the blade to hold the shaft still while you tighten on the nut has gone missing the original tool for this task was made from a bent over piece of sheet metal with 3 4 notch in it seen below as illustrated in the manual if you are lucky you might have a thin stamped steel 3 4 open box wrench in your tool box if not while they are difficult to find you can modify an easy to find thin bicycle wrench into something that works i used a very thin 17mm stamped steel bicycle wrench a metal file was used to enlarge the 17mm opening to 3 4 it works great sliding easily into that narrow area between the blade and the saw housing you can see that i have clearly marked my reworked wrench as being for the dremel saw so it will not end up in the junk box or the garbage can having trouble raising and lowering the blade this next section is all about how to fix that issue there are several things or a combination of things that can create this situation first photo below is just an overall view of underneath the saw to get you oriented for the rest of the photos so first lets talk about one issue and that is where you turn the adjustment knob on the front of the saw and nothing happens the knob goes round and round and the blade does not move up and down in the photo below take a look at the small tabs the red arrow is pointing to they are meant to locate on the flat surfaces of the metal cylinder that houses the screw adjustment if someone has tried to force raise the blade when the height adjustment is binding up on the screw they can spring open that detent area a little and with will spin around and end up on the curved surface of the cylinder instead of remaining in the proper location to fix the problem turn the shaft so they are on the flat and using a flat bladed screw driver gently tap them back against the shaft so they grip once more in the photo above where the yellow arrow is pointing you can see how much dirt can get stuck in the adjustment screw over time that needs to be cleaned off as part of your regular saw maintenance be sure to lubricate the threads with the boeshield t 9 don t use sticky grease for lubrication it will trap the dirt on the screw and it will travel up into the cylinder get packed into it and cause binding if your old saw has that condition you will need to spend a lot of time running the screw back and forth cleaning off the dirt it brings out of the cylinder eventually you will get it cleaned up a soft brass wire brush can be used to remove excess rust from the screw pb blaster is also a good chemical product to loosen rust but remove the belt before you apply a spray chemical you don t want the belt to absorb a lubricant as it could lead to belt slippage if you need to you can use a fine steel pick or even a toothpick in between the threads to remove stuck particles the brush does not take off i was recently asked if you can unscrew the black plastic knob on the front and take it off i don t believe you can i am pretty sure it was a press fit installation there would be a real risk of damaging the plastic saw s housing if you tried to pry it off of the shaft you can remove the metal saw housing by taking out the two screws that come in from the top surface and the screws that hold that metal housing to the plastic saw body then once the housing is loose start turning the black knob until the screw that raises and lowers the saw blade backs out of the shaft the knob is attached to but you would not need to do that unless you really needed to do a major rust removal job on those screw threads and also chase the threads inside the shaft pretty much a last resort fix for the blade raising screw to get it freed of rust and working smoothly the final condition that can cause binding while raising the saw blade is found towards the back of the saw see photo below there is a cover plate with a curved slot there is a bolt that goes through the slot dremel tablesaws have metal that is prone to rust most people store their saws out in unheated garages and rust builds up on the inside surface of that cover where and binds up the movement when the saw blade is raised or lowered remove the bolt at the rear of the cover see yellow arrow next loosen the bolt that is towards the front of the saw take a long piece of emery cloth and some rust removing oil and do your best to pull back and forth on the strip scouring off that rust that is on the inside surface of the cover plate put some t 9 on that cleaned surface to lubricate and prevent more rust from forming put the bolt back and tighten the front and rear bolts tighten to barely snug then back the nut off very slightly as the parts must move freely and not bind ____________________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________________ it is important on any table saw that the blade is positioned parallel to the miter slots see the photo below there are two screws on this saw see yellow arrows used to make that adjustment unplug your saw before you begin back the screws out leaving one of them barely tight to uses as a pivot point but the other one looser i use a ruler with fine calibration marks it is best to choose one saw tooth to measure from mark it with tape or paint so you don t get confused put the tooth at the front of the saw and measure from the edge of the slot over to it then rotate that tooth to the rear of the saw and measure from the edge of the slot over to it the measurement should be the same after you have made this adjustment and go on to adjust the fence remember that the distance between the saw blade and the fence must never be smaller at the back edge of the saw blade than at the front or you will create a pinch point and get kickback where a board can come shooting out of the saw right back into your stomach last but not least replacement motors i know of only one source for an authentic replacement motor this company purchased the remaining stock of them they are not inexpensive however they are the real thing it is the oem motor from the emerson motor co that your dremel tablesaw came with when it was new i do not recommend using an under powered sewing machine motor or the ones such as the one from grainger that you will see posted elsewhere on the internet by people saying it is a proper replacement motor it is not the motor from grainger is not a good substitute contact the company below sometimes they list them on ebay and they are shown in their company catalog sh goode and sons also sells quality hardwood lumber such as cherry cut to scale thickness sizes for making miniatures http shgoode com s h goode sons workshop steve maryanna goode po box 2575 atascadero ca 93423 voice 805 460 9663 fax 805 460 0424 posted by karin corbin at wednesday july 15 2009 18 comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest labels dremel tablesaw how to tools july 11 2009 8 sided roof tutorial this is a long posting today i am showing how to use a table saw with a miter gauge to cut a multi sided roof for a miniature structure the roof you will see me cutting has 8 sides and a 55 degree pitch it will have a cupola coming up through the center therefore you will not see a point on the roof panels this same cutting method will produce roofs with 3 4 5 6 8 10 12 any number as long as it is more than 2 please note that i have the safety blade cover removed from the saw always follow the safety recommendations from you saw s manufacturer i figured out what the angles on the roof panels would be from my design in a cad program there are charts for determining these angles on the internet with the most common multi sided numbers and angles of slope given as well as online calculators and formulas to use with scientific calculators click here to see my favorite online calculator for finding the settings for saw blade bevel angle and the associated miter gauge angles that go with a particular roof pitch the first cutting task will be to cut a long plywood strip s the width of that strip is equal to the distance from the bottom edge of the roof to the top edge perpendicular to the bottom edge you can bevel the top and bottom edges at this time but those bevels must be parallel to each other as you will be doing a flip cut technique the length of the strip is figured out by sketching a layout of the panels along your layout sketch strip one roof triangle will face point up the next point down there is a small waste triangle at the start of the cuts and also saw blade thickness between the cuts i usually allow for a few extra panels just in case i goof ok your basic material strip is cut now lets get to the trickier stuff with the blade upright at 90 degrees as high up as it will go i set the miter fence to my needed angle i made an angle template using acrylic on the laser cutter specifically for this job but you can also use an adjustable bevel gauge instead of an angle template if you want to use the bevel then use a graphics program or cad program to draw out the specific angle and print it onto paper use a light coat of spray adhesive to stick that pattern onto a flat piece of wood next tack wood strips to each side of the angle being very accurate about getting it right against the lines of the angle do leave as shown in the photo below a small gap at the apex of the angle to facilitate the use of the bevel gauge now the bevel gauge between open it against the wood strips and then lock it to that angle you must have a template or bevel gauge short enough or else thin enough to fit between gaps on the saw blade teeth so that it does not touch any of the teeth on the blade it should rest only on the solid body of the saw blade never on top of a tooth this angle setting method will not work on a hollow ground saw blade as it does not have a flat surface the next step is to tilt the saw blade over to the angle you need you must have a bevel gauge or angle template thin enough that to slip fit into the space between the saw teeth so it can rest against the body of the saw blade i shine a small flashlight from behind my gauge and if any light comes through i adjust the blade tilt until the angle is a snug fit place your long plywood strip against the miter fence and make a cut that takes off that square end and leaves you a lovely angled beveled edge in the photo above you can see that waste piece the skinny triangular cutoff piece to the far right side note before you cut anything that if you have beveled the top and bottom edges you will first need to figure out how the first panel needs to be positioned so those edges are oriented on the roof panel as you want them to be now rotate the board 180 towards yourself so the side that was against the table now faces up towards you from this time it will be rotate cut rotate cut until you have enough sections for the roof at this time you need to set a couple of stop blocks to control the width of your panel you will see in the photo above that i have used as stops two magnetic blocks made just for table saw setups regular magnets would not be strong enough however you can firmly double back tape wood strips to you table saw top to act as stops you won t be putting a lot of pressure against them just gently moving your plywood strip over to them a stop block of some type is absolutely essential so your panels are always the same width you will need the blocks to be positioned far forward enough on the table so the plywood panel is clear of the blade when you begin the cut the block along the side should be fairly short in length an inch or two is enough postition the panel against the blocks turn on the saw hold the panel in position against the miter fence while pushing the miter handle forward cutting through the panel and moving it on past the blade then i turn off the saw let it come to a stop and remove the newly cut roof panel section out of the way of the next cut move the miter back to the position forward of the saw blade flip the plywood set the material against the stop blocks and the miter fence turn on the saw and cut again only 8 times and you are done it does not take long to cut the panels most of the time is in the setup the following photos show how to assemble the panels i use a quality duct tape from 3m that leaves no residue behind when you remove it i normally buy it at lowes or my local hardware store but here is an online source for it http www amazon com scotch tough residue 1 88 inch 20 yard dp b0014lqk58 that duct tape is my only clamp i use the body of the bird or doll house to conform the perimeter angles of the roof while the glue dries first i lay the panels side by side with the angled bevel facing down then i tape the joints next i pull it up into the shape and tape the last joint i always do a check fit before i glue them together would you look at those joints in the photo above no gaps perfect miter joints that is the beauty of my cutting method it really does work now take the tape off one joint and put the taped side against the table fill the joints with glue but don t get too heavy handed or you will have a big mess to clean up the adhesive i am using is from locktite and it is called polyseam seal it is labeled clear extra adhesive and it has a lifetime warranty this is an acrylic caulking product i purchase at a hardware stores or at home depot or lowes this is my primary glue for birdhouse and dollhouse shell building it has never let me down when building a birdhouse i make sure every cut edge of the plywood on the birdhouse is completely covered with glue this prevents any water getting up into the plys and possibly causing dry rot i am using water resistant plywood the flat surfaces are very good but those cut edges are the most vulnerable area for water infiltration soaking into the material now pull the last two edges back together tape that joint and place the roof on the house structure to dry put some waxed paper under those corner so you don t glue it to the house just yet as you will want to do more work on the roof such as painting the underside installing edge trim or even gutters because this is a birdhouse i will put an exterior rated gray primer on the plywood before i shingle it the shingles will weather to gray and any cracks that may develop won t show with the matching primer un...