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Text of the page (random words):
y and local traditions here we can find the poulet de bresse at the market on a regular basis at a reasonable price as well as the cream and butter typical to the bresse region on local shelves the poulet de bresse is not only a specific breed of poultry but also bred in compliance with product specifications defined in the european aop dossier it is raised free range with 10 square meters of open pasture per chicken to run in the chickens are grown to ages 40 higher than the very much respected label rouge chickens a crucial few weeks that guarantees richer flavor and tonicity to the meat they are fed with traditional locally grown grains certified to be free of all gmo products and a whopping thirty percent of their diet comes from their natural foraging activities located within a specified geographical boundary that overlaps small parts of the rhone alpes burgundy and franche comté regions in france every aspect of the poultry s living condition falls within guidelines defined by the dossier that controls their appelation d origine protégé protected name of origin i e bresse these chickens are even fed the local milk based on the age old principle that terroir and tradition both play a crucial role in the product the quality of this poultry is undeniable you can definitely taste the difference you can recognize a poulet de bresse by its characteristic blue feet white feathers and red crest each chicken will have a band around its foot indicating the farm it came from as well as the labeling that distinctly signals the poultry s protected origins yielding the bresse name and aop label when i see plump bresse hens at my volailler it instantly becomes one option for our market table meal at plum lyon what can be better than a locally raised poulet or poularde flavors that for many are a first time catharsis into what poultry was meant to taste like one very nice way to prepare it is to carve up the bird the carcass meant for stock or even consommé and to fix a nice rustic fricassée with mushrooms which will bring out the very best qualities of this majestic poultry recipe poulet de bresse à la crème et champignons des bois ingredients 1 poulet de bresse carved into eight pieces each breast with wing suprème removed from the ribcage and sliced in two diagonally leaving each wing with a considerable chunk of breast meat attached the remaining breast pieces which have retained integrity in shape and the drumsticks and thighs separated at the joint salt pepper flour 60 grams or 6 tablespoons butter 30 grams neutral flavored oil like grapeseed or duck fat should you have some on hand 125 ml or about 1 2 cup of dry white wine or vin jaune if you ve got it 1 onion 1 stalk celery 1 carrot 400 g or two cups crème fraîche when in lyon seek out crème bressane or heavy cream lemon to season 12 morels dried or fresh or a half pound of mixed cultivated and wild mushrooms brushed clean and sliced 125ml or 1 2 cup white wine optional when using morels method heat the oven to 425ºf 210ºc chop the carrot onion and celery into small dice melt 20 grams of butter in a large cooking pot suited to oven roasting the whole chicken and sweat these aromatics the mirepoix over low heat with a pinch of salt for about 5 minutes until they ve softened and released their flavors in the meantime season the chicken pieces with salt pepper and flour on all sides in a separate frying pan brown the chicken pieces over medium high heat in a 50 50 mixture of butter and neutral oil like grapeseed as the pieces brown place them white meat at first on the bottom of the pan followed by the legs and thighs on top into the cooking pot with the mirepoix once the meat is in the pot turn up the heat for a minute or two to get it nice and hot pour the wine into the pot and cover it immediately to contain the steam transfer to the hot oven and set a timer for 25 to 30 minutes at the end of this time transfer the chicken pieces to a roasting pan to keep warm covered with foil in the oven which has been turned off prepare the sauce strain the cooking juices skim off the considerable fat that floats to the top and transfer it into a sauce pan turn up the heat and reduce this liquid by one half add the cream bring to a boil and reduce by one half again creating a rich thick creamy sauce note low fat cream will not work for this step you need at least 30 fat otherwise the sauce will curdle and separate cook the morels in the remaining 10 grams of butter briefly then add the white wine wine and carefully simmer about 10 minutes until the wine is completely reduced note when preparing this dish with mushrooms other than morels they don t need to cook in the wine you can simply sauté them in a little bit of butter and a pinch of salt until semi wilted and continue with the recipe add the mushrooms to the cream sauce and toss to combine we like to serve this dish on a big platter in springtime this can be served over simply steamed new potatoes during other seasons rice or noodles are also a choice slice the steamed potatoes in half and pile them or rice or noodles in the middle of the platter place the hot chicken over the potatoes followed by the mushrooms in sauce any remaining sauce can be offered at the table serve immediately a note on mushrooms for this dish morels are the ultimate choice for the mushroom in this recipe the season for these little beauties falls typically in early spring when we ll see piles of them freshly foraged moist and clean offered by the farmers who gathered them this year we had them locally for less than two weeks which makes a short season don t worry the morel is a mushroom that dries very well and the poultry vendors on the market will offer them dried for sale specifically for this dish don t be put off by the hefty price tag on the dried mushrooms as you re buying them by weight dried so you needn t buy more than a dozen for one chicken 50 to 100 grams might be enough once reconstituted they will render an amazing flavor with morels out of season there s always the possibility that you can gather up either alternative wild mushrooms in season when you can find an abundance of amanite de cesar coulemelles girolles les trompettes de mort and les chanterelles grises or pick a selection from producer s cultivated offerings of pleurotte aka golden trumpet or oyster mushrooms for texture combined with why not the plentiful cultivated flavorful fresh shitakes which can definitely compliment a rich creamy wine enriched bresse poultry sauce tight and small champignons de paris and brown button mushrooms will be your plan b you can round out anything you ve gathered with them from one end of the market to the other by lucy vanel 12 39 0 comments monday february 25 2019 une sauce ravigote chaude this sauce is making its way back into my rotation now that we re turning towards foods that can use the nice counterpoint of something acidic lifting up and punctuating rich long simmered flavors and textures i love a nice ravigote chaude with roasts of all kinds from simple stuffed poultry to the more exotic tête de veau braised winter vegetables like endives just now being offered by local farmers at the market this week and steamed leeks when served with a ravigote chaude become a full entrée instead of a side the cold ravigote is the reference in a lot of cooks minds mounted crushed cooked yolks with oil like a mayonnaise but my favorite for this time of year is the hot version a completely different recipe and technique the hot version is a sauce that in my opinion plays a good role in the the steaming whole of a plate keeping in tune with hot comforting foods more enjoyable right now than something cold dolloped on the side like a condiment there are a lot of multi faceted cooking words that can mean one thing or another for example the word velouté which in old school french cuisine is a classic sauce base prepared with a roux of flour and butter with the addition of poultry or veal stock having some stock on hand is important for this recipe since it s necessary for the velouté which serves as a structural framework to weave in the texture and flavor of reduced shallots wine and vinegar then layered again with flavor using fines herbs capers and a little more butter of course this is a recipe where we build a triad of bold flavors into a velvety base the herbs most bold of which is tarragon enriched shallots and capers try this with some simply braised leeks simplicity at its finest recipe sauce ravigote chaude 3 shallots 45 grams or 3 tablespoons dry white wine 30 grams or 2 tablespoons wine vinegar 25 grams or 2 tablespoons butter 25 grams or 2 tablespoons flour 300 ml or 1 1 4 cups veal or poultry stock hot 2 tablespoons tarragon fresh finely chopped leaves 1 tablespoon chives fresh finely chopped herb 1 tablespoon chervil if you ve got it fresh finely chopped herb 1 tablespoon capers in brine chopped make sure they re not too salty salt and pepper to taste salt will depend on the capers you have 30 grams butter to finish in one small saucepan combine the shallots wine and vinegar heat to boiling then lower heat and reduce that is let the liquid evaporate at a simmer just until all the liquid is gone don t allow it to burn or brown at all note this step can be done in advance and held for a day chilled in another saucepan melt the first 25 grams of butter and stir in the flour until it s a smooth paste allow to cook over medium heat briefly stirring constantly and then whisk in the stock until fully incorporated allow to thicken and simmer and stir occasionally as the liquid becomes more translucent indicating that the starches in the flour are fully saturated with the liquid and are now doing their job to thicken and stabilize 20 minutes simmering should suffice combine the reduced shallot mixture and the velouté add the fresh herbs and capers and stir to combine taste and add salt and pepper to taste place the butter in one piece over the sauce and allow it to melt then swirl it over the top to avoid forming a film keep this sauce warm until service and whisk the melted butter on the surface into the sauce at the last minute by lucy vanel 14 35 0 comments wednesday march 22 2017 postcard plum lyon a shot from our first market table class of the season yesterday looking forward to many memorable days as we progress through the spring season here in lyon by lucy vanel 09 39 0 comments tuesday april 01 2014 touchstone bourgogne looking for burgundy in lyon is a fruitful exercise when you narrow down the dishes that do burgundy justice they appear in one form of another over and over again year after year on café menus here how can they not when we have the abundance of burgundy tumbling onto the market stalls all year when we seek inspiration in the seasons and the market it is inevitable that we re going to choose the best from all of the distinct regions that lyon is privy to by association so many of the dishes served here are not only local but distilled into a collection of the best coming from each point of the compass surrounding this great city escargots de bourgogne are at home on the lyonnais table platters are slid onto tables dishcloth covered hands pulling back leaving the dish sizzling on checkered woven cotton and white linen tablecloths alike ready to be devoured with their fresh spring garlic and chopped herb seasoned garlicky butter we dutifully sop it all up with a rich spongy pinch of poolish fed baguette i fell across the perfect beurre d escargot butter quite by accident when browsing through a collection of local recipes then another several cook s notebooks referred to one source paul bocuse of course i questioned the use of almond flour wondering what on earth that might contribute but it serves a little bit like a megaphone for the flavors of the earth carrying them pronouncing them to well harmonize and mingle with the aromatic seasoned butter with a sip of a local white sparkling burgundy wine the moment becomes a touchstone of sorts one that crystalizes an important idea it shines brighter and comes easier in retrospect we savor it and each other and the sun streams into the kitchen we are in lyon while we re chopping up bunches of fresh herbs and mincing the season s fresh spring garlic shoots grating the nutmeg and such i always like to slice a naked escargot into pieces to be tasted alone before we stuff the rest into the shells with the prepared butter and pop them under the broiler there is a silence that falls across the kitchen when i pass out the escargot forks i explain that it s very important to taste now that any well prepared escargot de bourgogne is going to taste fresh and earthy that it s going to give us something very special in fact when we put them into our mouths we are reminded of just what it tastes like the terroir of this rich and varied land recipe escargots de bourgogne you can always find locally processed escargots in lyon escargots de bourgogne are considered to be a special occasion dish that are commonly served during the winter holidays in many regions of france but in lyon they are available and readily consumed year round it is about as rare to find any restaurant that processes their own live escargots as a place that makes their own cheese or cured meats it s not unheard of but just not common since the experts local to lyon like maison malatre have got it down to a science the escargots are first isolated from food source for several days to empty their digestive tracts then they are boiled in their shells removed from the shells further processed by hand to remove inedible parts then slow simmered again in an aromatic and herbal broth before being preserved for distribution it is rare these days to find average home cooks going through this process although some families have their traditions 3 dozen medium simmered escargots 3 dozen clean dry escargot shells 200 grams butter 4 grams fleur de sel or 3 4 tsp 1 4 tsp ground pepper 1 4 tsp ground nutmeg 10 g fresh garlic minced 8 g shallot minced 10 g fresh almond flour 20 g parsley finely minced stuff one escargot tail first into each shell combine the butter salt pepper nutmeg almond flour shallots garlic and parsley and work them together until thoroughly combined but without crushing the minced herbs so much that the butter turns green with a butter knife gently fill each shell to the brim with the seasoned butter place in trays or balanced on piles of sea salt with the opening facing up to ensure that the butter doesn t flow out when it melts put the trays of snails under the grill or broiler and cook until the butter is sizzling and the snails are hot serve immediately with a splash of cold sparkling burgundy white wine or champagne by lucy vanel 15 32 3 comments thursday september 12 2013 the lamb chops the pickings were slim at the market i was going to be teaching a class where we just cook together through to lunch...