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ght absorption and meditation j and i have hiked together for long enough that we fall into familiar patterns he sets the uphill pace think death march and i lead the downs skipping like a kid and we walk together on most flats or mild undulations oftentimes we fall into our own reveries focusing on nature and esoteric musings me and life s problems and solutions him the path itself subtly but well marked alternates from thousand year old stone paved paths and steps to root filled passages both cutting through old growth trees in more than a few places the trail drops off precipitously into deep ravines on the left or right and we were grateful for both our sure feet and the lack of rain on the mossy rocks and roots we crossed several passes although the highest ones were only a little over 3000 feet 1000 m we gained and lost many more thousands of feet of elevation each day as the trail climbed and dipped all day long some days were short 8 9 miles and some longer including a killer 17 mile day with serious ups and downs on the days with more mileage and or heavy elevation gains we had to be cognizant of daylight hours and hustle a bit but we never felt unsafe despite long stretches of solitude and we would have probably been just fine even as dusk arrived despite being one of the two main walking pilgrimages in the world the other is the camino de santiago in spain the kumano kodo trail was surprisingly quiet and unpopulated even in high season there were a few days when we saw no more than 10 15 people the entire time we passed many small shinto shrines oji as well as three of the five major grand shrines in the area there was a smattering of viewpoints along the trail but really the hike is almost all covered and close with mile after mile under canopy i ve been known to fuss after too many hours in the green tunnel of the appalachians but this heavy woods smelled so fresh and piney and the ancient stones and moss added so much moodiness that i didn t miss the sky as much as usual our lodging ranged from family owned ryokans and minshukus where we had the place to ourselves or stayed with a family host to larger local onsen hot springs hotels in spa towns although we did give the onsens a try and they were very relaxing after a rigorous day of hiking we were not big fans of either the accommodations or the towns both were a little worse for wear and we had become spoiled by our tiny traditional digs earlier in the trek still those bigger places did pack us some pretty amazing lunches to stuff into our packs this has to be the best trail lunch i ve ever had true to form we did not take the rest day built into the mileage schedule we were given adding an extra day of hiking so that we could complete the entire nakahechi route across the kii peninsula a piece of southern japan that lies between the east china sea on the west to the pacific ocean on the east we ended at one of the most picturesque shrines of all nachi taisha and its backdrop nachi taki waterfall the nation s highest alas the shrine itself was wrapped up amid a massive restoration so the left photo below was taken of a travel agency poster after a long hike it s typical to feel a sense of satisfaction and we did but in many ways i just wanted to keep on walking the kumano kodo was easily one of the most peaceful calming treks i ve ever done and i d love to find a similar experience somewhere else in the world meanwhile it was absolutely pouring rain at the end of the trail and had been for hours so we were soaked to the bone and we had to figure out logistics for that night and then get back to osaka putting a rather abrupt end to all that dreaminess more on our three city stays another time share this share on x opens in new window x share on facebook opens in new window facebook like loading ten years a belated blog post 21 sunday apr 2024 posted by lexklein in france travel general 56 comments tags brittany coastal hikes dinard france impromptu travel paris quickie trips saint malo travel i recently saw another blogger s 10 year anniversary news and realized i must be at that point myself indeed i had been notified a few weeks ago but like everything related to my blog in recent months years it went unnoticed and ignored what has kept me away the top reason is certainly a refocusing on what is happening in the real world the day to day life events that have piled up heavily in ways both good and bad there is also the feeling that writing all about me me me is self indulgent at best and mind numbing to others at worst since my last post we have relocated from houston texas to durham north carolina it was a difficult move occurring days before christmas and ending with lost and broken items the moving company was outrageously bad and it took several months to sort everything out too many things in the new house seemed to have problems and the weather for the subsequent three months was awful rainy dreary and apparently uncharacteristically cold an unpleasant development after living in a place where the climate suited me perfectly the stress of the move coupled with constant demands to leave our new home to tend to other family matters created a sense of disconnection from my own life and settled deep into my body for the first time in my life i struggled to sleep i fell woefully out of shape and my physical being kept trying to let me know it was not happy about things i didn t have time to care or to try to fix it for many months as i write now i think i have turned a corner i ve thought this for days or even a week or so before only to have things smack me in the face again so i am a little leery of celebrating quite yet but the weather has finally turned our extended family is in a good place new babies help a lot and i have decided to return to working out hard beginning to train for what is likely to be my steepest physical challenge ever later this year i m also convinced the spotty eating i ve done both under and over indulging in a vicious pendulum swing has contributed to my troubles so i ve kept myself on a steadier course there as well best of all i ve started planning trips that sound a little like vacations in keeping with the nature of the blog i will veer away from personal agita and document one of those happier times a very quick little journey we took back in september before all hell broke loose the trip involved the wedding of my college roommate s daughter in the brittany region of northwest france and because we would have little control over what we did there and just a short day and half in paris at the end we made no major plans no major plans has become my favorite way to travel these days there s less pressure to see everything more time to roam and no expectations to be dashed we enjoyed every improvised hour we spent in paris strolling all over the city starting in the latin quarter where we stayed stopping in the marais for falafel eating a classic brasserie dinner on the boulevard saint germain wandering the tuileries licking ice cream cones on the île saint louis checking out the progress of the notre dame repairs and ambling through the luxembourg gardens with what seemed like half the capital s population on a gorgeous sunday afternoon we paid for nothing but our hotel and simple food stood in no lines and took very few photos we also crammed in a half day trip to fontainebleau to see an old blogging friend so happy to meet estelea for a hike and a drink a delightful addition to our time in the paris area but it was our three days in brittany that made this little sojourn a special one in many ways for one this region had been one of the first places we ever took our three young children overseas and our memories were very fond we had stayed at what was then and might even remain one of the nicest hotels i d ever been in i looked it up and found the miraculous news that it had been fully renovated during covid and was less than half the price we had paid 24 years ago what how a good sign for sure we booked immediately for our first night in dinard and it lived up to our very rosy memories free for part of the next day we took a short ferry ride across the rance estuary in drizzly morning rain to saint malo the medieval walled city famous for its role in world war ii expecting my usual bad luck with the weather we set off with rain jackets hats and umbrellas only to see the sprinkles slow and the clouds part as soon as we docked fifteen minutes later we spent the sunny morning walking a full circuit on top of the city walls descending into the warren of quiet mostly empty streets for more rambling and eating a lunch of moules frites and eggy cheesy galettes at a heavenly outdoor café by afternoon we were driving an hour west to pléneuf val andré the wedding destination and checked into our less fancy seaside hotel for two more nights we are known to pack in as much outdoor exercise as possible before weddings a weird habit i know so we left almost immediately for a short brisk walk to ilôt du verdelet to get our bearings before the first evening s event the wedding was as lovely as you might imagine in this ruggedly charming place with a castle as the backdrop and many pleasurable hours of eating and drinking on a crisp late summer evening but before that elegant event we threw on our trail shoes and snuck away for a very long hike along the coast a route that reminded us of the big sur area in california with incredible ocean views at every turn we passed old stone buildings a wwii bunker black sand beaches and quiet coves we walked about ten miles round trip up and down the shoreline path that is part of gr34 brittany s long distance hiking route filling our heads and lungs with all the fresh air we d been missing all summer in south texas it was a short little trip but it was filled with activities that we love that required no special planning or effort good food good movement good friends worth the journey to be sure apologies to those whose blogs i have ignored or semi ignored for a while as i shifted my priorities even more off line i can t say i will reappear as regularly as i used to but i will try share this share on x opens in new window x share on facebook opens in new window facebook like loading best job ever 17 friday nov 2023 posted by lexklein in travel general 54 comments tags air travel airports feelgood jobs i ve had a lot of jobs both paid and volunteer full time and part time enjoyable and dreaded in rough chronological order i ve been a cashier lifeguard esl instructor international banking analyst oil and gas corporate lender project finance banker financial writer college english professor spanish tutor memoir editor community board chairperson foodbank volunteer and urban farm office helper but i might have just finished the sweetest little job of my career information desk lady at my local airport i worked at the smaller of two airports in the fourth largest city in the u s it s small but mighty and it is the first and to date only 5 star airport in north america according to air transport rating agency skytrax if i may brag about my airport i will say that despite my own anecdotal evidence and probably yours most flights really do leave on time or very close to it the airport is constantly being cleaned and the janitorial staff really seems to care about how things look the tsa men and women are serious but generally kind do not roll those eyes open to helping find lost items and announcing every little thing that has been left behind we have artists in residence live musicians and an art collection all of which i m convinced add to civilized behavior and attitudes i m proud of the clean facilities amenities and service oriented employees that helped us earn and keep this status most photos here are of the traffic signal control boxes in the neighborhood around the airport i only work a day or two a week and they re not even full days i sit in a huge stainless steel command center right after the security checkpoint and nearly everyone traveling that day needs to pass my desk i am so eager for interaction that i rarely look down at my computer screen or notepad instead constantly turning my head left and right and smiling at everyone who passes me letting people know i am friendly and open to questions as a result i serve anywhere from two to three times as many airport customers as my fellow workers do on a given day even when i ve been very busy in my outside life i have looked forward to my days at the airport settling into my high swivel stool knowing that the coming hours will keep me from my texts emails phone calls and other annoying problems it s hard to worry about things at home when i am jumping up every minute or two to direct someone to the right gate keeping people from pushing wheelchairs onto a moving sidewalk or calling the operations center to clean up dog poop yes people leave that behind in airports too not just your yard or city sidewalks what are the most popular questions i get some days i have dozens of people asking me where the chick fil a is other times no one at all asks me this and instead i ll have multiple queries about our lounges we have none i am always sorry to say i m frequently asked where passengers can go to smoke between flights and i spend plenty of time explaining all the food and beverage options to people i help travelers find ubers pet relief stations atms rental cars diapers and iphone chargers i know where everything is here right down to the exact locations where passengers can find starbucks the uso an interfaith chapel the shoeshine stand the coldest water fountain the shortcut to eco park and the quietest place to take a conference call my small job has miraculously shown me the very best in people i would have guessed that air travelers would be stressed out and therefore rushed and cranky on the contrary i would estimate that over 90 of the people i have seen are relaxed friendly and largely unhurried clearly they do not use my last minute strategy for arriving at airports there is very little rage an emotion we see so often in public and online in a world that seems less and less polite every day the denizens of our airport have renewed my belief that people are mostly good we read such awful news every day and we see social media accounts that celebrate terrible behavior and attitudes so one of the very best perks of my job has been seeing just the opposite i come home feeling good about people how many jobs can do that these days people who miss flights are frustrated but stoic asking only for help in finding another option it is surprising how many adults are flying for their very first time and i love making them feel more comfortable and confident dozens of people turn in found cell phones glasses bulging wallets licenses clothing toys and even a complete engagement ring and wedding band set and they truly care about getting ...