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hat is part of their attraction the aim of the jonathan conville courses is not to eliminate risk but to help people recognise it manage it and make informed decisions nearly fifty years after the trust was established that remains a worthwhile objective every summer a new group of young climbers and mountaineers leaves with a little more knowledge a little more experience and hopefully a better chance of making good decisions when it matters in the long run that undoubtedly keeps some people alive posted by mark seaton at 4 44 pm no comments thursday june 11 2026 early season alps good conditions variable logistics applesrudelhorn formerly known as the matterhorn may was unseasonably hot properly hot too hot really june then arrived and quietly corrected things stephen kellock joined me again from montreal early june has its advantages fewer people less noise and a general sense that you have the mountains to yourself the downside is that quite a lot of the infrastructure hasn t got the memo huts shut lifts idle progress slightly theoretical we met beforehand for a beer to agree a plan knowing that the plan never survives contact with reality our first day was dent du fenestral a fine and properly remote climb above finhaut not far from the emosson dam the approach is long enough to discourage the half interested which improves matters considerably stephen on crux section of dent du fenestral summit cross should have brought axe and crampons plus boots the next day we climbed in the saleina valley beyond orsières before moving on to zermatt we stayed at the base camp hotel in zermatt which is excellent and worth a mention zermatt remains an extraordinary place though now best described as a long term construction project with a mountain attached there appear to be cranes everywhere matterhorn and one of the many cranes the following morning we took the gornergrat railway getting off at rotenboden to climb the riffelhorn i hadn t done it for over twenty years and found it noticeably harder than i remembered this is either a geological shift or a personal one rifflehorn rifflehorn the weather turned as we descended and we made it back to town just ahead of a proper soaking rain in zermatt as ever meant snow higher up the next day we climbed the breithorn a clear day with fresh snow just enough to make things civilised without creating extra work a contented stephen on the summit of the breithorn after that we drove round to saas fee and stayed at the hotel les amis the main issue was that the resort was more or less closed including the lift we needed for the allalinhorn plan a was quietly retired we adopted plan b which required less commitment being slightly tired by this point we limited ourselves to the first descent of the season on the three wheeled trikes from the top of the hannig cable car worth noting that summer lift access is included with a hotel stay which feels generous until you realise how many lifts are still shut back in chamonix we drove the mg midget to the col des aravis and climbed the via ferrata just below the col a sensible day on the final day we opted for something shorter and in my view the best via ferrata in the mont blanc region the excellent route at le buet we finished with lunch at the hotel du buet omelette and chips no obvious way to improve on that so we didn t try aiguille verte seen from le buet meadows posted by mark seaton at 3 34 pm no comments wednesday may 06 2026 home for well over 250 nights the original gouter refuge is no more the old goûter refuge is due to be dismantled this may it feels like the wrong ending for a place that carried so much of the history of mont blanc it could have been treated more like a monument something closer in spirit to camp 4 in yosemite which has heritage status instead it will disappear in a fairly practical way like most things in the mountains eventually do i have a long and slightly conflicted relationship with mont blanc over 35 years it has been both a workplace and something more personal i started my guiding career there in the early days i would climb it twice a week it was efficient you met clients you built trust and if things went well you could suggest they come back the following year for something more interesting many of them did some kept coming back for decades at one point i worked out that i had spent more than 250 nights in the goûter refuge that seems excessive when written down but it felt normal at the time the climbs themselves blur together now but certain ones remain fixed i climbed mont blanc with don planner the first blind man to reach its summit it was not straightforward but it worked my final ascent was with my daughter sophie it was the right way to finish i had a few tears in my eyes as i left the summit i have climbed mont blanc with all three of my daughters and with my wife those are some of the best moments i have the old refuge was central to all of this it was not comfortable but it mostly worked the guardian guy bochataty was a wonderful man and a constant presence his father had done the same job before him guy himself was effectively born into it his mother went into labour at the refuge and didn t make it to hospital he was born on the mountain train on the way down it set the tone vincent his second in command spent 18 seasons up there he served dinner by bringing every tray to every table on his own every evening without fail it was faultless and the system never changed he always had a smile and genuinely loved his role reservations were made by writing to guy in the off season he would reply by post in careful immaculate french handwriting there was time for that then not everything was orderly after the fall of the berlin wall large numbers of climbers arrived from eastern europe many had poor equipment and no bookings they came anyway the result was predictable too many people not enough space people slept on the floor some took beds that were not theirs it was not ideal but it was dealt with in the usual way by getting through the night because i was there so often i was sometimes given a bed by the wall this counted as luxury the toilet situation was basic a shed at the end of an icy walkway a long drop no distractions one night a guide friend of mine was heading there at about 2 00 a m he was stopped by someone asking to borrow his headlamp the reason was simple they had dropped theirs down the shaft retrieval was apparently under consideration later an annex was built to add more beds and during the construction of the new refuge it was used to house the workers one evening they had too much to drink and a fight broke out the police were called they arrived by helicopter they are more used to altitude sickness and mountain rescues than breaking up drunken fights at 3 800 metres but they dealt with it a slightly improved toilet was installed downstairs i happened to meet the builders and was asked to test it i agreed it seemed like the right thing to do being the first person to use a new toilet at the goûter refuge is not something you aim for but it is something you remember there were moments of clarity one older guide would arrive and order two beers always with the same explanation une pour la soif une pour le plaisir one for the thirst one for the pleasure it is a useful distinction the refuge will go and something more efficient has already replaced it that is how these things work but the old place held a particular kind of order within its absolute chaos people who passed through it remember it in very specific ways not because it was good but because it was exactly what it was foot note in fact i now learn that the refuge will be rebuilt in the thermal park in st gervais as a museum posted by mark seaton at 4 11 pm no comments monday april 06 2026 good snow very good skiers jake and his son kit joined me for three days of ski mountaineering the weather and conditions were fabulous this was kit s first introduction to touring although he and his father were very good skiers despite their ability neither of them had skied in chamonix before which from my point of view was good because it gave me a blank canvas to show case some of the great day tours on offer on the first day we headed to le tour where we went through the fundamentals of avalanche safety protocol and then headed over to the point carraye which offers spectacular views up the rhone valley returning to the resort we had a mixture of good skiing but also some challanging skiing on our second day we headed first to la flegere from where we skied over to brevent and from the summit of le brevent we headed to the col du brevent and dropped off the back side here we hit some first rate skiing at the 2000 meter mark we stopped and put our skins on before climbing back up to lac cornu here we stopped for some lunch afterwhich we continued to climb to the col de la gliere we then skied down the combe de la gliere and joined the piste what was even more fantastic was despite it being easter we saw no one all day solitude our final day we again headed for la flegere this time for the famous col crochue col berard ski tour it is a marvellous journey but it is always busy or at least the first climb is generally after the first col eveyone fans out this is what happened to us and once again we found our selves on our own jake making his way up to the col crochue jake kit with col crochue in the background the challange we faced was that it was getting very hot this meant that the snow was deteriorating and there was an increased risk of wet slide avalanches so we had to keep moving and get through all the difficulties efficiently the tour conviently finshes at the hotel du buet which has a bar an ideal place to wait for the train which whisked us back to la flegere posted by mark seaton at 11 57 am no comments thursday april 02 2026 skiing contrasts between the us europe it continues to be sunny cold and great snow with the added adavantage of their being no one around grands montets looking perfect skiing with shanon and antonia s extended families was a study in contrasts different abilities different goals but a shared enthusiasm for skiing somewhere else other than the us between them there were a lot of children which meant balancing progression safety and enjoyment across a wide range of skill levels i spent my time with colin shanon s son and antonia the ones keen to explore chamonix s off piste terrain with me together we covered the fundamentals of avalanche awareness terrain selection snowpack basics route planning and decision making the focus was on avoiding risk rather than reacting to it understanding where not to go is more important than knowing how to get out of trouble we also discussed the cultural differences between skiing in france and the united states in france off piste skiing is more integrated into the overall ski culture but it comes with a clear expectation if you leave the marked runs you are responsible for your own safety mountain guiding is a regulated profession with standardized training and certification which creates a consistent baseline of expertise in contrast mountain guiding in the u s is not uniformly regulated while there are excellent guides the lack of consistent oversight means the level of training and experience can vary more widely it puts more responsibility on clients to vet who they ski with and to understand the risks involved for the rest of the group those who preferred to stay on piste and focus on improving their skiing i arranged sessions with my friend esf instructor hugo goisnard this proved to be the right call hugo managed to raise the group s technical level quickly while keeping the sessions engaging and safe confidence improved across the board and just as importantly everyone had fun doing it in the end the trip worked because it matched the right approach to the right people structured progression on piste for most and focused safety education in off piste terrain for those ready to take that step posted by mark seaton at 11 50 am no comments older posts home subscribe to posts atom social media facebook twitter subscribe get what s new in the mountains this week delivered automatically about me mark seaton the current president of the british mountain guides mark seaton a member of both the british and french mountain guides associations based in chamonix for over 30 years mark has guided people from all backgrounds each with their own mountaineering ambitions his work has ranged from leading a blind man with no previous mountaineering experience to the summit of mont blanc to guiding clients on serious alpine routes such as the north face of the eiger he has also worked on television projects including as a camera safety specialist for the bbc series forces of nature which filmed ibex on the cingino dam in northern italy mark is the author of the mark the mountain guide children s book series published in the uk usa and france view my complete profile mark recommends seven climbs the ascent of rum doodle a passion for mountains climbing ice how the english made the alps the italian job dvd let my people go surfing mark the mountain guide i mark the mountain guide ii safety risk and adventure in outdoor activities the villain the life of don whillans the white spider blog archive 2026 16 august 1 slovenia beautiful friendly and slightly more co july 2 june 1 may 1 april 2 march 5 february 2 january 2 2025 27 december 1 october 3 september 1 august 2 july 3 may 1 april 2 march 4 february 3 january 7 2024 17 december 1 september 2 august 1 july 1 june 2 may 1 april 2 march 3 february 1 january 3 2023 21 november 2 october 1 september 4 august 1 june 1 may 1 april 3 march 4 february 2 january 2 2022 17 december 1 november 1 september 1 august 1 july 1 june 2 april 4 march 3 february 2 january 1 2021 10 september 3 august 1 june 1 march 2 february 1 january 2 2020 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