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old fashioned bastards doing things the victorian way who are these bastards tutorials helpful sites old fashioned bastards doing things the victorian way hand stitching tutorial buttonholes 2013 04 04 handmade buttonholes are time consuming i ll admit but i always find them much more secure than those made my machine before i begin the tutorial i should note that it s best to stitch buttonholes through at least two layers of fabric or a layer of fabric and interfacing this ensures that the buttonhole will remain strong and resist stretching as to the type of thread to use in this tutorial i use a double layer of 3owt cotton but almost anything will do including embroidery floss and even crochet thread so let s get started first determine the length you would like your buttonhole to be by measuring the button you plan on using buttonhole size should be determined by adding the diameter plus the thickness of the button i prefer a tighter buttonhole as they tend to stretch eventually but if you d like a little wiggle room add two millimeters to overall measurement mark fabric next using a simple backstitch stitch along the outline of your marking stitch two rows of backstitches this will help secure the fabric once it has been cut and as you work the buttonhole stitch next carefully pierce the fabric through which the button will eventually pass you can use an awl or simply a small sharp pair of scissors pierce near the corner where you wish to start working the buttonhole stitch enlarge the hole just slightly with a pair of scissors i prefer to cut as i stitch as opposed to cutting the whole buttonhole all at once i find this works better as it eliminates fraying and slipping of the backstitches bring needle and thread up through the fabric on the outside of the backstitches near a corner to begin buttonhole stitch begin the buttonhole stitch by passing the needle and thread through the buttonhole opening do not pull taut instead bring up the needle directly left of where the thread originally emerges take that thread and bring behind the needle wrapping it around the front of the needle and hold taut as you pull the needle through continue stitching around carefully clipping the fabric as you go to finish off bring needle and thread through the fabric to the back directly next to last stitch made run needle and thread through a series of stitches along the back and simple trim and now you ve got a buttonhole posted by the scullery maid in sewing tags buttonhole buttons clothing hand sewing hand stitching living history sewing sewing tips tutorial 2 comments whitework handkerchief 2013 03 25 white cotton voile hand sewn handkerchief measuring 13 by 13 embroidered with dmc coton a broder 30 in white not the neatest embroidery i ve ever done as i d never worked with the fabric nor the thread before i really just wanted to test out the process the next will be much better i m sure posted by the scullery maid in embroidery tags embroidery handkerchief historical historical clothing sewing white work whitework 3 comments hand stitching tutorial rolled hem 2013 03 15 i just finished embroidering my 18th century pocket and since i m waiting for the wool for my next project to arrive i thought i d be indulgent embroider myself a nice handkerchief to use during our humid summers i had ordered a couple of yards of white voile in december to use for chemises but there wasn t enough length after much debate i decided it would be perfect and cut into it before i could change my mind this interim project presented me with a good opportunity to post another hand stitching tutorial rolled hems are great for projects like handkerchiefs because they create a narrow hem with little bulk and a delicate appearance they do feel a little tricky at first but as you work you ll quickly get the hang of it i promise to start fold the edge of your fabric over desired amount in my case a little over a millimeter and pinch between your fingers with your needle pick up one to two strands of thread from the fabric right before the edge that s been folded over then insert the needle through two to three strands of thread from the fabric on the fold and just pull your needle and thread through and repeat i hope that makes sense i m crap at explaining instructions verbally since i m a visual learner and so i tried to take photos that were fairly clear also our gas company has been laying new pipe and jack hammering three feet from my bedroom window for a week so i m running on pretty minimal sleep if i m not explaining this well drop me a comment i ll take a nap try to explain it better when cognition has returned posted by the scullery maid in sewing tags clothing hand sewing hand stitching living history rolled hem sewing sewing tips tutorial 2 comments the perfect bagel a recipe 2013 03 12 bagels 240 ml water room temperature 3 g dry active yeast 5 oz honey 5 oz caster sugar 1 2 tablespoon kosher salt 17 oz bread flour 1 5 oz reserved 1 in a mixing bowl dissolve yeast in water add honey sugar salt mixing briefly add bread flour reserving 1 5 oz until thoroughly combined add remaining flour only if sticky 2 knead dough briefly to insure ingredients are combined 1 to 2 minutes this particular dough needs little if any kneading dough will be firm to the point of slightly tough non sticky but not smooth as with doughs that are kneaded 3 place dough in bowl do not grease cover with cling film and set in refrigerator to rise for 7 to 12 hours overnight allowing the dough to rise very slowly in a cold environment makes for a chewy dough perfect for bagels 4 remove dough from fridge and let come to room temperature punch down and let rise in a warm spot until dough doubles in size 1 to 1 1 2 hours 5 deflate dough and divide into six to eight pieces depending on desired size between your palms roll dough back and forth to form a rope length of rope is dependent on size of bagel you wish to achieve though i usually roll mine out to five inches if you have trouble rolling the dough out to achieve desired length roll as much as possible and then let dough rest for ten minutes to let the gluten relax before trying again 6 to form overlap the ends of the ropes about 1 2 inch and rock the dough back and forth between your palms to seal try to achieve uniform thickness throughout your ring the rings do not have to be perfect just close to it otherwise they won t bake uniformly 7 set rings aside on floured surface to rise until slightly less than doubled in size boiling liquid 1 to 1 1 2 gallon water 1 potato peeled and cut into quarters 8 while dough rises for the last time in a large pot on high heat combine water and potato bring to a boil and allow to boil until potato becomes soft and water becomes slightly cloudy 15 to 20 minutes strain reserving water discarding potato 9 preheat oven to 450 f 9 when dough has sufficiently risen bring potato water back to a boil once boiling gently drop rings into water two to three at a time boiling is what creates the chewy crisp crust on the bagel the longer the dough is boiled the chewier the crust boil one side of bagel for 1 to 1 1 2 minutes depending on desired crust carefully flip the bagel over in the water and boil other side 10 with slotted spoon carefully remove boiled dough and transfer to baking sheet not greased dough will be puffed and slightly shiny 11 baked for 10 to 12 minutes until dough begins to brown flip bagels over and bake for another 10 to 12 minutes until bagels are a medium to dark brown and shiny carefully remove from oven and allow to cool on wire rack 12 enjoy posted by the scullery maid in food tags bagel baking bread cooking food recipe 3 comments yippee 2013 02 21 look what i got in the mail today my cheapo modern machine just wasn t cutting it in terms of sewing heavier fabrics and so edgar bought me this 1922 singer in exchange for a leather tool belt i ve promised to make for him she s a beauty i think even if she is a little rugged all of her gears are as smooth as glass i haven t tried out the motor yet since i need to build a desk for her but i ll mostly be using the hand crank either way motorized machines and i are not the best of friends so it s nice to have a non electrical option especially if the zombies come a knockin now to just figure out a name posted by the scullery maid in sewing tags antique sewing sewing machine singer vintage 5 comments older posts recent posts hand stitching tutorial buttonholes whitework handkerchief hand stitching tutorial rolled hem the perfect bagel a recipe yippee 18th century 1920s antique antique clothing antique clothng bagel baking beauty bread breakfast buttonhole buttons chemise cleaning clothing clothing accessories cooking corset corsetry crochet embroidery flapper food hair hair care handkerchief hand sewing hand stitching historical historical clothing historical reenactment historical sew fortnightly history housewife hstorical reenactment ironing laundry living history muffins pockets poverty recipe rolled hem sewing sewing machine sewing tips singer staple tutorial victorian vintage vintage clothing whitework white work categories embroidery food history home sewing follow blog via email enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email email address follow join 77 other subscribers historical sew fortnightly old fashioned bastards on facebook old fashioned bastards on facebook archives archives select month april 2013 march 2013 february 2013 january 2013 december 2012 search create a free website or blog at wordpress com subscribe subscribed old fashioned bastards join 56 other subscribers sign me up already have a wordpress com account log in now privacy old fashioned bastards subscribe subscribed sign up log in report this content view site in reader manage subscriptions collapse this bar loading comments write a comment email required name required website design a site like this 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