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ces we understand one another almost instantly perhaps because beneath every helmet beats the same desire freedom a small service station a growing confidence about twenty kilometres before reaching my accommodation i stopped at a small texaco station in kirkby lonsdale it was hardly a famous landmark yet it remains one of my fondest memories i parked beside the pump and glanced at the fuel gauge surprisingly i still had almost half a tank remaining after roughly one hundred and twenty kilometres not bad at all while filling up i stretched my legs bought an energy drink and sat quietly outside for a few minutes the afternoon sun remained pleasantly warm the air was cool without being cold a few locals came and went without paying the slightest attention to the slightly overexcited malaysian photographing his rented motorcycle by now something had changed the nervousness that accompanied me when leaving york had quietly disappeared i no longer felt like a stranger borrowing someone else s motorcycle the tiger had become my travelling companion britain no longer felt foreign it simply felt welcoming sometimes confidence arrives not with a dramatic moment of triumph but during an ordinary stop at an ordinary petrol station into the single track roads after leaving kirkby lonsdale the roads gradually became narrower then narrower still eventually i encountered my first genuine single track roads now these are fascinating pieces of british engineering technically they permit two way traffic yet in many places they are only wide enough for a single vehicle passing places appear every so often allowing drivers to courteously wait while others proceed for motorcyclists however life is rather easier a motorcycle and a car can usually pass comfortably provided both exercise a little common sense i found the experience strangely enjoyable the pace naturally slowed there was no need to hurry every bend concealed another postcard waiting to reveal itself ahead lay the farm where my family awaited the farm entrance was sharp and narrow with a tiny lane full of potholes and uneven bumps it was especially tricky because one misjudged throttle movement could stall the bike and send me tumbling i had to keep the bike balanced carefully using the clutch in the lower gears fortunately i managed to guide the tiger smoothly up the steep winding green lane to the house the wife greeted me at the door clearly surprised that i had made it there in one piece so i ended the day s ride triumphantly with a big smile and the warmth of my beloved family around me we enjoyed a sumptuous dinner prepared by my wife performed the night prayers together and settled in for a well earned rest from the saddle motorcycle touring teaches an unexpected lesson confidence does not come from riding the biggest motorcycle or covering the greatest distance it comes quietly kilometre by kilometre as unfamiliar roads become familiar uncertainty becomes curiosity and fear slowly transforms into gratitude somewhere between york and the lake district i realised i was no longer merely riding through britain i had begun to belong to the journey itself end of part three part four where the roads became postcards if anyone asks what is so special about the lake district my simple answer would be beautiful lakes mountain views and the farms sheeps perhaps not because i cannot describe it but there are things words never quite succeed some places simply refuse to be explained they insist on being experienced the lake district is one of them morning on the farm i woke early the following morning not because of an alarm clock nor because of traffic certainly not because of hospital duties instead i woke to silence real silence the sort of silence city dwellers rarely encounter anymore no motorcycles no construction no impatient drivers leaning on their horns only distant birdsong drifting through the cool morning air and every now and then the gentle bleating of sheep somewhere beyond the hill then i got ready and performed the subuh prayers with the family on this very early morning i drew back the curtain what greeted me could easily have belonged on the cover of a travel magazine morning mist floated lazily across green fields stone fences climbed gently over rolling hills a handful of sheep were already beginning their day s work which as far as i could tell consisted mainly of eating staring into the distance and looking thoroughly unconcerned with the affairs of mankind i smiled so this is what people mean when they talk about peace as doctors our mornings usually begin with blood results ward rounds and telephones that morning began with sheep i preferred the sheep the freedom to change plans one thing my family has learned over the years is this when travelling with me plans are always provisional some people prepare itineraries down to the nearest fifteen minutes i admire them i simply cannot become one of them perhaps it is the biker in me perhaps it is my personality or perhaps after spending so many years working in medicine where emergencies happily ignore appointment books i have learned that flexibility often leads to the best experiences the original plan for the day changed several times my wife and daughters would be travelling by car while i explored the roads on the tiger we would meet somewhere eventually in shaa allah strangely enough nobody seemed particularly worried they know me well as long as the motorcycle remains upright and google maps remains reasonably cooperative everything usually works out eventually every road is a scenic route my goal for the day was wonderfully uncomplicated ride see a few lakes stop whenever something looked beautiful ride some more repeat as necessary it was perhaps the least scientific travel itinerary i had ever designed yet somehow it turned out to be one of the most enjoyable within minutes of leaving the farm i realised something remarkable in the lake district there is almost no such thing as an ugly road turn left beautiful turn right beautiful miss a junction still beautiful it almost became impossible to make a wrong choice the roads curled gracefully around hillsides before suddenly revealing lakes so calm they reflected the clouds almost perfectly then the scenery changed again towering fells appeared dry stone walls traced invisible boundaries across green slopes ancient farmhouses stood quietly beneath enormous skies occasionally i passed cyclists grinding heroically uphill i silently admired their determination while feeling rather grateful for the triumph s three cylinder engine some forms of suffering i have decided are entirely optional more than just looking one unexpected discovery surprised me photographs can sometimes become a nuisance now before photographers everywhere object let me explain every few kilometres another breathtaking scene appeared instinctively my brain would whisper stop take a photograph people won t believe this so i would pull into a lay by remove my gloves take off my helmet unlock my phone compose the picture only to discover another equally magnificent view five minutes later eventually i gave up trying to capture everything instead i simply rode sometimes the best camera is memory not every beautiful moment needs to become a social media post some moments are happier belonging only to ourselves keswick after not a very long ride i met my family in keswick compared with the peaceful roads i had been enjoying keswick felt positively lively visitors wandered through the streets carrying ice creams shops displaying hiking boating equipment for the enthusiasts cafés overflowed with people discussing maps weather and walking boots there seemed to be an unwritten agreement that everyone here had come to enjoy nature some preferred walking others cycling some arrived by campervan a fortunate few by motorcycle we stopped for coffee before taking a leisurely stroll beside derwentwater if yorkshire had been beautiful derwentwater was almost poetic the lake stretched quietly beneath the surrounding hills while small pleasure boats glided across its surface without disturbing the remarkable tranquillity children laughed dogs enthusiastically investigated everything couples sat on benches saying very little sometimes conversation becomes unnecessary beauty has a habit of doing all the talking motorcyclists everywhere another observation delighted me motorcycles they were everywhere outside cafés beside the lake parked neatly along pavements adventure bikes sports bikes cruisers classic triumphs bmw gs models wearing enough aluminium luggage to suggest they were halfway to azerbaijan i found myself instinctively slowing down whenever i passed a row of parked motorcycles my family already knows this habit abang is looking at bikes again guilty as charged motorcyclists regardless of nationality possess an incurable condition we cannot walk past another motorcycle without stopping to admire it it is not jealousy it is appreciation perhaps it is also a little jealousy bassenthwaite the quiet lake from keswick i continued alone towards bassenthwaite among all the lakes in the lake district this one possesses a rather interesting distinction strictly speaking it is the only body of water officially named a lake the others are waters meres or tarns whether that matters depends entirely on whom you ask to me it was simply beautiful the road approaching bassenthwaite widened into a pleasant dual carriageway before narrowing again mountains stood proudly in the distance fields rolled endlessly towards the horizon i stopped beside the lake hardly anyone was there no noisy souvenir stalls no crowds no loud music just water wind sky and silence it was perhaps my favourite stop of the day there is something deeply satisfying about finding a place that has resisted becoming a tourist attraction sometimes simplicity is luxury the mirror incident of course every adventure needs a little drama mine arrived disguised as a wing mirror after leaving bassenthwaite i noticed the right mirror suddenly behaving rather independently instead of remaining politely where triumph engineers intended it to be it had decided to swivel gently with every bump not ideal i stopped looked at it twisted it it obediently stayed in place for approximately fifteen seconds then it resumed its new career as a weather vane i laughed so it s going to be one of those days unfortunately i had absolutely no tools not a screwdriver not an allen key not even the sort of mysterious multi tool that experienced adventure riders seem able to produce from invisible pockets nothing apparently i had packed enough clothing for two days but not a single spanner another lesson learned never underestimate the value of carrying basic tools especially when travelling kindness at closing time google maps led me towards a motorcycle workshop by the time i arrived it was already closed the shutters were down lights were off i almost turned around then a gentleman emerged he smiled can i help i explained my predicament he examined the mirror without fuss he tightened it by hand as best he could hmm that should get you home he apologised for not having proper tools readily available whether he genuinely had none or simply did not wish to reopen the workshop hardly mattered what mattered was that he stopped to help a complete stranger no charge no paperwork no questions just kindness as i thanked him and rode away i reflected that one of the nicest souvenirs any traveller can bring home is not something bought in a shop it is the memory of unexpected kindness from people whose names we never even learn dinner awaits hopefully then came a message from my daughter dad we re having dinner at a thai restaurant in kendal six o clock i glanced at google maps ninety kilometres estimated arrival one and a half hours that can t be right on a motorway ninety kilometres would normally disappear in well under an hour this was the lake district distances are measured not in kilometres they are measured in bends hundreds of them i replied confidently i ll be there then i smiled to myself perhaps from the saddle beautiful roads eventually fade into memory even motorcycles are returned to their owners yet what remains are surprisingly simple things a quiet morning a stranger s kindness a cup of coffee with family laughter over a loose mirror and the overwhelming feeling that god has allowed us to witness another corner of his magnificent creation perhaps that is the real purpose of travelling not merely to discover new places but to discover new reasons to be grateful part five the long way home every memorable journey eventually arrives at the same destination home the only question is whether we return as the same person who left dinner with the family fortunately google maps was slightly pessimistic i reached kendal comfortably before dinner my family was already waiting at a small thai restaurant tucked away in the town centre the moment i walked in carrying my helmet my wife smiled so you made it there was something wonderfully reassuring about hearing those words throughout the day i had enjoyed the freedom of travelling alone yet seeing familiar faces waiting at the end of the journey somehow completed the experience motorcycling teaches us independence family reminds us why independence matters over dinner the conversation became wonderfully ordinary they talked about villages they had visited souvenir shops walking trails the wife and girls laughed about how they were rushing from one place to another and in the end they had not enough time after stopping at a few shops eyeing to buy unique souvenirs like brooches and babies uk brand clothes for our grand children apparently gps enjoys confusing entire families not just motorcyclists naturally i contributed my own stories the bmw rider the sheep cows and horses the race to reach the dinner table the ever changing scenery by the time dessert arrived everyone agreed on one thing the lake district had exceeded expectations sometimes travel brochures actually tell the truth one last ride the following morning arrived sooner than i would have liked there was still one final ride awaiting me back to york returning a rented motorcycle has always felt strangely emotional it is rather like saying goodbye to a travelling companion you have only recently met but somehow known for much longer the tiger fired into life immediately its familiar triple cylinder growl no longer sounded unfamiliar over the previous forty eight hours it had become a trusted friend funny isn t it we spend months choosing motorcycles yet sometimes they choose us within a single afternoon the motorway lesson the return journey inevitably involved britain s motorways many motorcyclists dismiss motorways as boring i understand why they lack dramatic scenery corners become gentle curves the riding itself requires comparatively little effort yet eve...