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st is just puttering about to be done at one s leisure and if the masts and the sails can be salvaged then all that needs replacing is a piece of wood the mast trunk and some masthead instruments the only difficult task in replacing the masts is heaving them onto the deck arches each mast weighs around 200 lbs so it is best to have at least three strong backed people on hand to assist with this operation the easiest way to do this is to place the masts on the dock next to the boat and roll them aboard using two loops of rope or strapping one placed fore one aft one end of each loop is secured and the other one pulled rolling the mast onto the deck arches and into place with this technique and four people two people are pulling exerting 50 lbs of force each and two more are making sure that everything stays nice and even once all the pieces are in place the masts can be raised prior to being raised seven lines have to be attached to the masthead four running stays two forward two aft two topping lifts one forward one aft one halyard aft these can be draped over the deck arches to keep them from snagging on things or getting dropped in the water as the mast comes up the running stays can be shackled to their respective pad eyes on deck ahead of time the rest of the lines can be tied off at the nearest available deck cleat for the foremast the gin pole interferes with the forward deck arch and so the deck arch which is hinged at the front is tilted forward and out of the way for the duration this involves loosening two turnbuckles and removing two clevis pins the masts tend to wobble between port and starboard as they come up or lean to port or starboard or both especially if there is a bit of a sea running or if the boat lists a bit from the way it is loaded or if there are wakes from passing boats this is nothing to worry about the mast tabernacle can spin around on the mast trunk once the mast is all the way up it can be rotated to the correct fore and aft position out by putting some extra tension on the hand winch line the masts have 1º forward rake meaning that they lean forward 1º and once they come up all the way they flop decisively into place at that point the second forward hinge pin is inserted and the hinge pins pounded in and secured in place using nuts and stop nuts the hand winch line can then be removed the next step is to install the running stays quidnon s method of keeping the pants up is the belt and suspenders method the mast trunk is the belt and keeps the mast up even by itself but it is not sufficient to withstand the pull of the sails or the rocking of the masts in heavy weather for this running stays suspenders are needed as well for the running stays galvanized steel wire rope is an economical choice but it tends to be rather cumbersome to store between sails because it has to be coiled a more expensive but excellent choice is spectra or dyneema which are synthetic fibers that are just as strong but so flexible that they can be stuffed into a bag there are four running stays per mast all going to the sides of the deck two forward to oppose the weight of the sails and two back to oppose the pull of the sails the running stays need to be clipped into place and tensioned before the sails can be put up the procedure for raising the masts is now pretty simple 1 attach lines to masthead fitting drape them over the deck arches clip running stays into place 2 roll the mast into position 3 rotate the mast until the indexing bolt fits into its matching recess 4 thread a bolt through the tabernacle hinge and into the mast wait to tighten it until the mast is up 5 connect mast wiring cables at tabernacle hinge test the circuits for opens and shorts 6 attach gin pole insert into top tabernacle hinge insert retainer clevis pin and ring ding 7 attach line from hand winch to d shackle at the end of the gin pole 8 heave the mast upright using the hand winch 9 insert second forward hinge pin 10 pound in and secure hinge pins 11 tighten the bolt in the tabernacle hinge that holds the mast in place 12 tension the running stays the procedure for taking the mast down is almost the exact reverse of the one for raising it 1 pull the lines in the running stay purchases out of their jam cleats and flake their lines on deck so that they run out as the mast comes down 2 loosen the hinge pins loosen the lock nuts and the nuts and given the pins a tap so that they turn freely 3 attach the line from the hand winch to the d shackle at the end of the gin pole and take out most of the slack 4 take out the second forward hinge pin 5 get the mast started by pulling back on it using any of the lines that run from the masthead 6 ease it down using the hand winch horse it onto its rollers if it comes down at an angle 7 detach the line from the hand winch to the d shackle at the end of the gin pole 8 detach gin pole take out ring ding slide out clevis pin remove gin pole from tabernacle hinge 9 disconnect masthead wiring at the tabernacle hinge 10 remove the bolt that holds the mast in position 11 slide the mast forward 12 detach lines from masthead i wish it were possible to simplify this procedure from this 12 step program but i don t see how as it is the design achieves the following important objectives the masts are secure and unobtrusive when stored on the deck arches and don t add to the overall length of the boat thus avoiding any added expense the masts can be raised and lowered by just one person in a couple of hours probably less with practice in the unlikely event of a dismasting there is unlikely to be severe damage to the hull and the injured mast can be dropped overboard by undoing four snap shackles and releasing three rope clutches a salvaged mast which may survive undamaged can be reinstalled after replacing a single sacrificial wooden component spares of which can be kept on board plus the ruined masthead instruments the entire sailing rig design is at this point far enough along to be set aside for now the next step is to produce detailed fabrication drawings some other previously missing parts of the design such as the engine bracket which slides up and down are pretty much done too and are at the same stage but are not exciting enough to deserve an entire blog post therefore we will now move on to mapping out the build process starting with the deck then moving on to the frame and the bulkheads the bottom the topsides and finally the surface of the deck and the superstructure which can be completed with the boat in the water posted by dmitry orlov at 9 14 am 14 comments email this blogthis share to x share to facebook share to pinterest wednesday may 22 2019 the rudder rudder assembly quidnon s steering has evolved quite a lot since the original concept now all that s left of the original concept is the idea that the rudder should have a kick up blade when sailing across shallows it should gently float up instead of getting torn off or getting stuck and when the boat settles on its bottom at low tide the rudder blade should automatically get itself out of the way only now has a good solution to this problem finally been found early on it was thought that twin rudders and wheel steering made sense but this made the design complicated and expensive twin rudders require a complicated steering linkage that uses something called ackermann geometry which is also used in cars when turning to the right the right wheel has to turn more than the left wheel because being closer to the point around which the car turns it has to follow a tighter circle later on after single handing a 36 foot sailboat from boston to south carolina i discovered that wheel steering is a bad idea and that i prefer a simple tiller there are very few steering positions that are comfortable with a wheel sitting behind it and standing behind it are more or less the only choices and they both get tiresome rather quickly on the other hand with a tiller it is possible to steer the boat while standing sitting or lying down using hands feet and hips or with a tiller extension clipped on with the inside of the knee or the armpit it is possible to operate the tiller remotely by tying a bungee cord to one side of it and pulling it to the other side using a lanyard in turn a tiller on a boat of quidnon s size is only workable if the rudder is a balanced rudder with about a third of its area ahead of its rotational axis so that the boat can be steered with a fingertip instead of your heel on the tiller pushing with all your might as is the case with an unbalanced barn door rudder that rotates around its forward edge further on i discovered that quidnon doesn t heel enough to make twin rudders necessary just a single rudder would work fine and so the design was changed to a single rudder hung off the center of the transom but this arrangement was still somewhat problematic first the rudder assembly cluttered up the transom and made the boat a bit longer which is a problem because marinas charge slip fees by overall length second the pivot point of the rudder was too far from the cockpit to give the tiller a useful swing range rudder assembly installed in engine well and so the rudder was moved from the transom to the back of the engine well where there is just enough room for it this made it possible to solve a few more problems quidnon doesn t always need to have a rudder it is a houseboat and houseboats mostly just sit at the dock where having a rudder is not just unnecessary but also rather inconvenient the tiller tends to whip around and hit things whenever the tidal current shifts or a boat wake hits since it sits in the water it tends to accumulate marine growth which makes it not work very well when the time comes to move the boat a better solution is a rudder assembly that is easy to install and just as easy to take out again when the boat is at rest gudgeons in engine well top view aft view with the rudder assembly removed all that remains on the hull are two gudgeons bolted to the back of the engine well along the centerline to install the rudder assembly it is turned 90º so that the tiller faces directly sideways and lowered into the engine well using a hoist the rudder shaft has two pintles that engage with the gudgeons the lower pintle has a longer pin than the upper pintle so that it can be engaged first rather than having to try to line up two pintles with two gudgeons at the same time once the rudder assembly is dropped into place it can be turned to the 0º amidships position with the bottom part of the assembly sliding under a recess in the bottom of the transom this recess serves several purposes it provides an exit path for the stream from the propeller it also provides an exit path for the outboard motor s exhaust when it is in idle when it is in gear the exhaust goes through the propeller and into the water lastly it provides a space for the rudder assembly the bottom part of the rudder assembly consists of the rudder blade case and the rudder blade the case is a box welded out of mild steel and galvanized with its bottom and rear open and forming a slot from which the rudder blade protrudes it is welded to the bottom of the rudder shaft a steel tube and reinforced using a triangular gusset the gusset has a hole in it for attaching a lanyard by which the rudder assembly is hoisted out of the engine well the sides of the box have specifically shaped cut outs in them the rudder blade is made of a 3 4 inch 20 mm piece of plywood sheathed in fiberglass and painted close to the bottom of the blade is a circular cut out that is filled with a lead disk to ballast the blade to counteract the buoyancy of the plywood and to exert a certain downward force when submerged the top of the rudder blade is surfaced with epoxy that s loaded with graphite powder to create a hard bearing surface rudder blade detent mechanism roller guide and rollers the rudder blade is joined to the rudder blade case using 4 rollers 2 on each side that are through bolted to the blade and ride inside the cut outs in the case the arrangement of the rollers and the cut outs acts as a detent in order to get the blade to kick up the force acting on the front of the blade generated by an obstacle has to be more than 4 times the downward force on the blade due to gravity the lead disk is sized so that this force is significantly more than 1 4 of the force generated by drag with the boat moving through the water at its maximum speed once this initial resistance is overcome the rudder blade kicks up rather easily once the external force acting on it is removed because the boat is again in sufficiently deep water it floats down into vertical position and the roller mechanism clunks into place when the blade kicks up it fits in the recess under the transom rudder blade in kicked up position the only necessary precaution is to avoid running aground while moving astern the rudder blade will not kick up backwards most of the time the centerboard will strike bottom first because it hangs down lower and will stop the boat shattering if it has to in which case it will be time to pull the remainder of the centerboard out of its slot on deck and to drop in a new centerboard but if the centerboard somehow misses the underwater obstacle and the rudder blade doesn t then the rudder may suffer a bit of damage if the bottom is soft and the boat is moving slowly it will simply stop with the rudder blade stuck in the sand or the mud if the obstacle is hard or the boat is moving fast the bolts holding the rollers to the rudder blade which are designed to be the weakest element will shear off and the rudder blade will drop off then it will be time to pull out the remainder of the rudder assembly and to jump down into the water all 4 feet of it to recover the rudder blade and the rollers then the rudder assembly can be put back together with new bolts there is also the chance that the rudder blade will strike and damage the prop in which case it will also be time to pull up the motor and replace the prop in short don t run aground when backing up to summarize the rudder assembly easily installed and easily removed when not in use and for maintenance with the rudder assembly removed all that remains in place are two gudgeons mounted to the back of the engine well it doesn t kick up unless it encounters a hard obstacle with no amount of moving water able to displace it from vertical its action is fully automatic never requiring any operator intervention it provides for fingertip steering using a tiller because the rudder blade is balanced with 1 3 of the area ahead of its axis the use of the tiller makes it possible to use the simplest and most affordable kind of autopilot a tiller pilot that clips onto the tiller the tiller itself is of a telescoping type with a handle that slides into its body so that it isn t left swinging about the cockpit when the boat is on autopilot after all of the various ...