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rebekah s sewing diary rebekah s sewing diary a diary kept by an average seamstress who takes quite an interest to vintage clothing and fashion designing and enjoys remaking old fashioned clothing and sewing modern or normal clothes whenever she finds the time thursday april 12 2012 retro party dress over the past few weeks my sister and i have been working together to make her a party dress using butterick 5748 we used a novelty nylon taffeta embossed with patches of velveteen and interlined the bodice panels with cotton batiste even though we both sew most of her work has been with quilts so this gave me an opportunity to teach her some of the things that i ve learned about sewing garments such as cutting interlining and stitching darts here s a copy of the details i posted at patternreview com pattern description a retro butterick pattern from 1960 the envelope description reads lined dresses a b have close fitting bodice flared skirt cut on crosswise grain of fabric side zipper and very narrow hem a attached bows purchased petticoat my sister needed a party dress so we made this together for her special event we followed the design for view b on the front while using the notched neckline and bow from view a on the back pattern sizing misses misses petite sizes 6 22 did it look like the photo drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it basically we made a few minor changes were the instructions easy to follow yes although we chose to construct the dress a little differently what did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern the classic design and neckline detail no dislikes fabric used a length of novelty nylon taffeta embossed with patches of velveteen it didn t exactly fall into the category of recommended fabrics but it worked for this dress pattern alterations or any design changes you made fit and design made a 1 inch short waist adjustment to the bodice using the lengthen shorten lines took in the bodices side seams a little raised the back neckline by 4 inches construction lengthened the skirt panels interlined the bodice panels with a layer of cotton batiste to lend a little body to the taffeta under stitched the neckline and armholes by hand this allowed us to reach the narrow areas that the machine could not used an invisible zipper at the side seam and brought the opening all the up way to armhole rather than starting below it seamed the skirt lining to the bodice lining at the waist instead of basting it to the waist seam of the outer dress finished the outer hem with a narrow self made bias facing we needed as much length as possible to cover the petticoat this seemed to work well with the taffeta and gave the hem a little more body would you sew it again would you recommend it to others we don t have any immediate plans to but it s such a basic design that we could possibly sew it again with a different fabric yes we would recommend it to others conclusion this is a cute dress that is simple to construct and my sister is very pleased with the results posted by rebekah at 3 35 pm 2 comments friday march 23 2012 spring dress progress the main panels of the dress have been cut out and the bodice is now partially assembled as i mentioned in my last post i m going to skip the front pockets so before laying out the pattern i made a simple alteration to the front skirt panel to compensate for the fabric that would be missing at the upper front corner all i needed to do was aline the front pocket piece with the front skirt piece at the waist and side seams and pin them together the first step in assembling the bodice was interlining the bodice panels front midriff and back with cotton batiste the pattern dose not say to do this but the fabric that i m using happens to have a little spandex in the crosswise grain for stretch and in order to use the border print the dress must be cut on the crosswise grain if the bodice is not stabilized somehow it will soon stretch out of shape the pattern instructions do seem compensate for this by simply including the bodice lining in the waistline seam putting the lengthwise stress on the lining rather than the fashion fabric however i m plan to line the entire dress and want to use the lining to conceal the zipper tape so the option of interlining seems better in this case after pressing the pleats in place i stitched through both layers along the inner crease of each pleat to keep the layers from separating since the stitching is nestled inside the pleats it won t show once they re basted in place here s the bodice with the front and back seamed at the shoulders the repeat in the border print happened to be spaced just perfectly for cutting the bodice front with two roses at each shoulder how neat is that posted by rebekah at 2 44 pm no comments labels dresses friday march 16 2012 a new dress for spring over the past week i ve been working on a dress for spring i m using simplicity 2886 which i bought last year during a pattern sale i had hoped to make a summer dress with it but since couldn t find the right material for the design it was added to a pile of patterns with a similar plight fast forward to late september when i crossed paths with a bolt of ivory sateen printed with navy dots and bordered with roses it immediately brought the simplicity pattern back to mind being similar to the print used for view a this dress should be fairly simple to fit so far i ve done a muslin of the bodice with a sba and it doesn t seem to need any other changes yay i m afraid i ll probably be skipping those cute pockets though i d rather reduce visual bulk there if i can posted by rebekah at 2 13 pm 1 comment labels dresses thursday march 01 2012 pattern review butterick 5685 i ve finally written a review for the butterick pattern that i used for my herringbone coat it s on patternreview com if you d like to see it click here posted by rebekah at 7 26 pm 7 comments labels herringbone coat saturday february 04 2012 butterick high waist skirt here are few photos of a skirt that i actually started long before my coat project but recently finished with a hem late in december this post is a little overdue but i didn t have any photos for until this past week this skirt comes from an old 1950 s butterick pattern i followed the instructions closely with the exception of a few minor changes originally this skirt was for myself but i m not too sure it works for me i had cut this one out long before i started considering designs that flatter short waisted people and the high waist visually decreases my torso fortunately for my sister it s just her size and she wears it well she was kind enough to model it for me the fabric is a black wool gabardine the pattern does not mention lining the skirt but i added one for a nice finish on the inside originally the skirt was quite long at least mid calf i trimmed and hemmed it to end just below the knee because the skirt is very full a bit of structure is required to uphold the midriff and prevent the weight of the skirt from pulling it downward for this the pattern calls for canvas interfacing and boning i used scraps of hair canvas leftover from a jacket project along with covered feather weight boning the casing for the boning is stitched the to the interfacing so that it lies directly behind the princess seams of the skirt in the photo below i ve turned up the facing to show the interfacing and boning once the top of the skirt is faced a ribbon waist stay is stitched to the facing at the waistline the fit of the stay is very snug so that the skirt is anchored at the waist i also added hanging loops as the top the skirt is shaped in such a way that it fits awkwardly onto a skirt hanger nice little details like these are typical of vintage patterns so this was a neat project even if i m the one wearing the skirt in the end posted by rebekah at 3 13 pm 2 comments labels skirts vintage sewing sunday january 22 2012 herringbone coat finished my herringbone coat is finished here are some photos of the completed coat along with a few little details front and back finished collar back sleeve detail in seam pocket at the side of the coat the bound buttonholes are now open and ready for use i braided the button stems using the ysl technique from claire shaeffer s couture sewing techniques to lift the buttons from the surface of the coat and help them to sit nicely in the buttonholes when sewing them in place i also reinforced them from the wrong side by sewing through small clear buttons these are visible in the full lining shot in the post about the lining large snaps covered with lining material fasten the under lap instead of buttons they are sewn to the facing directly beneath the ornamental buttons that are sewn to the outside tany at couture et tricot has posted an excellent tutorial for covered snaps which i found so helpful when making these thank you tany for sharing your technique understitching at the pocket opening helps hold the pocket lining neatly in place the wool was somewhat difficult to photograph as it tends to appear differently under various light souces but i ve tried to adjust the images as best i can the two photos of the pockets are the most accurate i m so excited to have this finished it s been a long project but i ve really enjoyed the opportunity to practice my tailoring skills and i m grateful to god for giving me the time and resources to undertake this project posted by rebekah at 4 07 pm 3 comments labels herringbone coat tailoring tuesday january 17 2012 herringbone coat lining and interlining because the fashion fabric for my coat is lightweight i decided to use an interlining for a little extra warmth i prepared the lining panels for this step at the beginning of the project by basting a layer of cotton flannel to the back of each piece after doing this it was just a matter of assembling the lining pieces as usual except that the interlining seam allowances must be trimmed close to the stitching to reduce bulk at the seamlines before stitching the lining to the coat i also trimmed the interlining within the hem allowance and hemmed the lining by machine i used the machine to attach the main portion of the lining to the coat as i needed to save the time it would have taken me to do it by hand after the main portion was secured in place the sleeves were set to the armholes with slip stitching at the center back of the lining there is a pleat for ease of movement the interlining material wasn t too thick so i made a small center back pleat in this piece as well though i pressed it in the opposite direction of the pleat in the outer lining before basting the two panels together the lower edge of the lining is hemmed separately from the coat and is held close the coat hem by swing tacks the photo above offers a peek at the flannel interlining when drafting the pattern pieces for the lining i modified the top of the back lining panel make to room for a neck facing it wasn t totally necessary but i wanted this coat to have one after all it makes a nice spot to stitch in a label the label fabric is from a piece of pinwale corduroy that i found in my scrap box a bit unusual perhaps but it provides some textural contrast i stabilized the wrong side of the corduroy with a piece of sew in interfacing and experimented with the embroidery stitches on my mom s kenmore machine once i found a design that i liked i trimmed away the excess interfacing turned under the edges of the label and slip stitched it to the facing at the back of the neck posted by rebekah at 4 24 pm 4 comments labels herringbone coat tailoring older posts home subscribe to posts atom about me rebekah view my complete profile blog archive 2012 10 april 1 retro party dress march 3 february 1 january 5 2011 12 december 5 november 2 may 2 march 1 february 1 january 1 2010 4 december 1 july 2 june 1 2009 6 december 1 august 1 june 2 march 2 2008 7 december 1 september 2 july 1 june 1 march 1 january 1 2007 14 december 1 october 1 september 1 august 2 july 2 june 2 may 1 april 1 march 2 january 1 2006 14 december 1 november 2 october 1 august 4 july 3 april 3 2005 2 september 1 august 1 links pattern review sense and sensibility patterns labels 1960s coat dress 4 aprons 3 dresses 15 fitting 2 herringbone coat 13 historic costuming 3 jackets 9 knits 6 mccall s 5058 6 miscellaneous 2 pattern alterations 4 skirts 7 tailoring 15 tops blouses 6 vintage sewing 12 wardrobe basics 9 recommended pattern sources fuzzylizzie vintage grandma s house lanetz living out of the ashes collectibles watermark theme powered by blogger